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Don't forget that the colour we see is amongst other variables influenced by the primer. paint layer  and varnish coat(s) which even these days will vary in eg thickness, and age not to mention the effect of distance on what we see

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My wife is an arty-farty type and one of the people whose work she has introduced me to over the years is the artist Bridget Riley - she of the multi coloured stripes etc.  What her paintings demonstrate is that the same colour can look very different depending upon what colour or colours it is next to.  Maybe this explains why two things that are actually the same colour look different in different circumstances. 

 

Gosh that was difficult to write concisely !

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Hi Modellers.  I have a Hornby Blue 06 class Shunter , which I thought I might add a Decoder to maybe lamps as well,  after reading an article in Model Rail, and then if I get it wrong and burn out the motor or something silly it won’t matter too much and it would be practice for a decent Loco DCC conversion  But then I thought I don’t want a blue Loco running around on my layout,  maybe I can paint it, black or green? As I don’t own or want an air brush , could I do it by hand, or would that really “ buffer it up?”  But then there is the question of transfers.   Any opinions. Happy Modelling Kev 

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You can do it by hand; if a c*ck handed idiot like me can do it anyone can.  I use acrylics in several thin layers to built the finish up, and matt acrylic varnish.  Buy good quality brushes and practice on something unimportant to develop your technique.   Or you could use rattlecan spray; Halfords do a very good semi matt black acrylic.  Again, build up light coats to a good finish.  I use a spray booth consisting of a cardboard box and spray outdoors in the garden on calm dry days; avoids unpleasant smells in the flat.  A tip to ensure smooth paint flow from the nozzle is to place the can in hot (not boiling) water for a few minutes before use.

 

Transfers for green and black liveried diesels, including totems and numbers, are available from HMRS and Cambridge Custom Transfers (CCT).  Some model shops stock HMRS but Cambridge need to be ordered on line.  Cambridge require a gloss or at least eggshell finish or bubbles will form beneath the carrier film, but can of course be matt varnished over the top; you need to do this to seal the transfers anyway.  BR steam transfers are suitable for black livery diesels. 

 

To avoid getting paint where it shouldn't be got, take the body off the chassis and remove the glazing from the cab.  Wasp stripes are another problem and off hand I don't know where you can get them, but they will be available somewhere!   If they are already on your 06, then simply paint around them.  If you are spraying, you will need to mask the areas not to be painted, which are the buffer beams and stripes.

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Hi The johnster.   Thank you. From one c*ck handed Modeller to another, I am suffering with arthritis and need oversized handles on everything to get a grip.

Happy Modelling Kev 

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I haven't got the 'excuse'of arthritis, Kev, I'm just clumsy, but I have deteriorated in the last decade; my eyesight and hand/eye co-ordination are not what they were, and they never were much!  When I took up modelling again a few years ago I had to 'revert' to tension lock couplers from scale, and I am going to have to complete all my planned kit building in the next few years before things get too bad!  I can no longer number a wagon or coach with individual number transfers.  I can't imagine how I'd cope with arthritis,  which is not only painful but physically restricts your movement, and hope you can still get some enjoyment from your modelling!

 

Sounds like spray cans are the way to go for your project, with red for the coupling rods.  Cambridge do complete numbers for most diesel classes, and if the 06 isn't included you may be able to 'cut and shut' numbers from another sheet (I had to do this for one of my auto trailers)

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