rembrow Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 5 minutes ago, dibber25 said: That's a good compromise fix. I'd like to borrow it, if I may. I did ask Rapido about shortening the front coupler but the model drives on the leading axle so the NEM 'fishtail' could not be any further back and there wasn't a shortened pocket available at source. (CJL) Absolutely, it's there for anyone to use, glad to provide a solution, it's what Rmweb is great for, I've used many great ideas from others. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Budgie Posted February 10, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 10, 2021 I assume a Kadee No.17 will work just as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallpaul69 Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 15 hours ago, 46444 said: My 16xx arrived today. Ordered 30.6.2019. The first thing that grabs you is the size of the quality packaging it comes in. Almost feels like you're getting a 7mm version. After unpacking the model my version of 1623 of 85B in early crest black looks stunning. From normal viewing the 'B' word is not as bad as expected compared to some of the close up photos seen. The top of the verticle bunker sides needs a little bit of attention in my eyes but with the BR black version it's hardly a noticeble problem. The coal load pops out easily with a scalpel blade. I will conduct a few tweaks around the bunker and spray it all in Tamiya Satin black to blend it in. Should be an easy fix. There are some incredibly fine details on the model to be noted including the rear cab window safety guards/bars. I would not be disappointed with this model if you've purchased one or more. Both Rapido and Model Rail have produced a stunning model and should be congratulated. The front NEM coupler needs adjusting as highlighted above and the buffers look a bit industrial in my eyes. Otherwise I'll certainly be ordering another. It's been a little ray of 16xx sunshine in these dark, wintery and snowy times. Roll on the 15xx and a Class 06 diesel shunter I say... Cheers, Mark No relation to either parties.. No verification of Class 06 either... Mark, I fully agree with your comments. Mine is 1627 (weathered late Crest) and looks fantastic! I might not have noticed the "B" if i hadn't read this thread, but might try increasing the weathering in this area which is not to a high degree. Otherwise, best of luck to those attacking with the filler etc! I hope they get sufficient rewards for all their efforts! I think there are other current GW/BR(W) models that are much more deserving in attention. 'Nough said, bring on the 15xx, which appears not to have the "B" problem according to latest posts from those in the know? Cheers Paul 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 If 'B' refers to the bunker 'seam', I think the 15XX looks likely to get a little redesign in that area, although quite how the problem that led to the seam will be resolved is less obvious. In my experience, it is more obvious in photographs of green examples and very much less obvious to the naked eye with black examples. Indeed, on the one (black) example I have in my possession at the moment it hardly shows at all on the bunker sides and I have covered it with the fire-irons on the rear. (CJL) 2 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted February 10, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 10, 2021 Regarding the bunker seam, I realised yesterday that there was a similar phenomenon on the bunker of the original Mainline 57XXs, in approximately the same place. With regard to the MR-Rapido 16XX, it occurs to me that it will be a lot easier to do the filling, if the brackets for the fire irons can be temporarily removed. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallpaul69 Posted February 10, 2021 Share Posted February 10, 2021 27 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said: Regarding the bunker seam, I realised yesterday that there was a similar phenomenon on the bunker of the original Mainline 57XXs, in approximately the same place. With regard to the MR-Rapido 16XX, it occurs to me that it will be a lot easier to do the filling, if the brackets for the fire irons can be temporarily removed. Tres bien mon Capitan! See attached pic taken this afternoon? Cheers Paul 2 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted February 11, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2021 Trying to find my MR subscription number is like wise not seamless. Links provided on the website don’t work atm. Looks like I’ll have to be patient until my copy arrives with it printed on the envelope. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted February 11, 2021 Share Posted February 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Ian Hargrave said: Trying to find my MR subscription number is like wise not seamless. Links provided on the website don’t work atm. Looks like I’ll have to be patient until my copy arrives with it printed on the envelope. If you order by phone, Kernow may be able to check the number for you. (CJL) 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted February 11, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2021 1 hour ago, dibber25 said: If you order by phone, Kernow may be able to check the number for you. (CJL) Thanks for that,Chris. They did and weathered l/c version duly ordered with subscriber discount . 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mozzer models Posted February 11, 2021 Share Posted February 11, 2021 I have renumbered my 1646 to 1645 sheded at 87A IMG_20210210_203418 by brian mosby, on Flickr IMG_20210211_192522 by brian mosby, on Flickr IMG_20210211_192531 by brian mosby, on Flickr 14 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 Has anyone been having trouble with the 16XX on DCC? Mine is fine on DC, runs smoothly and quietly at all speeds, including just moving. On DCC it is fine at speed but if I try to have it just moving it will suddenly stall for a moment then jump away a couple of centimetres at high speed, and then repeat. Roco DCC system with an ESU V5 Next 18. Wheels and track have been cleaned to negligible effect. Below is a photo of the 16XX circuit board and the component (which I assume is a capacitor) which get too hot to touch. It is also not seated properly. I assume I either a) turn off back emf, or b) remove the motor capacitor? Any other suggestions? Luke 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 Ok, with back emf off it runs MUCH better but I'm still tempted to remove the obnoxious cap! Luke 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crouchja32 Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 My NCB 1607 arrived this morning. Lovely little model. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinTrucks Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 My MR-301A 1609 in BR black arrived today - Great Joy! I unboxed it and have admired it on the shelf all day while sitting at my desk. This evening I had the opportunity to give it a run but -Deep Sadness! - it is completely dead! The Hornby Peckett works perfectly on the same track. I've removed the body thinking that the blanking plug might be loose but to no avail. A phone call to Kernow will be made asap. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted February 12, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2021 6 hours ago, luke_stevens said: Ok, with back emf off it runs MUCH better but I'm still tempted to remove the obnoxious cap! Luke The thing by the end of the screwdriver is a diode, not a capacitor (I'm assuming "ZD1" means Zener diode 1, but that's a fairly safe bet I reckon) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted February 12, 2021 Share Posted February 12, 2021 2 minutes ago, spamcan61 said: The thing by the end of the screwdriver is a diode, not a capacitor (I'm assuming "ZD1" means Zener diode 1, but that's a fairly safe bet I reckon) That's why I'm confused. Two solder patches to the right are the motor + and -. I can't understand why there would be a diode here. Luke 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium spamcan61 Posted February 12, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2021 3 minutes ago, luke_stevens said: That's why I'm confused. Two solder patches to the right are the motor + and -. I can't understand why there would be a diode here. Luke Me neither, although dc electronics isn't really my bag. Only thing I can think of is over voltage protection for the motor, but I don't see why they'd do that. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 1 hour ago, Richard Croft said: <snip> I had to alter the settings on the SWD sound file to suit the coreless motor <snip> Hi Richard, Any chance you you remembering what you changed? As you can see from above I'm having DCC performance issues! Thanks, Luke 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 13, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 13, 2021 12 hours ago, luke_stevens said: Has anyone been having trouble with the 16XX on DCC? Mine is fine on DC, runs smoothly and quietly at all speeds, including just moving. On DCC it is fine at speed but if I try to have it just moving it will suddenly stall for a moment then jump away a couple of centimetres at high speed, and then repeat. Roco DCC system with an ESU V5 Next 18. Wheels and track have been cleaned to negligible effect. Below is a photo of the 16XX circuit board and the component (which I assume is a capacitor) which get too hot to touch. It is also not seated properly. I assume I either a) turn off back emf, or b) remove the motor capacitor? Any other suggestions? Luke 11 hours ago, luke_stevens said: Ok, with back emf off it runs MUCH better but I'm still tempted to remove the obnoxious cap! Luke That's interesting. I'm seeing pretty much the same behaviour with my new Bachmann 94xx and a LokPilot 5. I'll try turning off the back EMF. Others have suggested using the ESU "Automatic calibration of the motor" feature, which I will try too. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 1 hour ago, St Enodoc said: That's interesting. I'm seeing pretty much the same behaviour with my new Bachmann 94xx and a LokPilot 5. I'll try turning off the back EMF. Others have suggested using the ESU "Automatic calibration of the motor" feature, which I will try too. I've tried the auto tune and it hasn't helped with the 16XX, but I have found it good on Loksound decoders in the past. I prefer the 16XX to the 94XX. I find the latter has a "scratchy" noise at slow speed, as had the Kernow 02. A function of a coreless motor I suppose. Now you have mentioned the 94XX I'll try switching the Next18's around and see if that makes a difference (the 94XX had a Bachmann decoder) Luke 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 13, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 13, 2021 8 minutes ago, luke_stevens said: I've tried the auto tune and it hasn't helped with the 16XX, but I have found it good on Loksound decoders in the past. I prefer the 16XX to the 94XX. I find the latter has a "scratchy" noise at slow speed, as had the Kernow 02. A function of a coreless motor I suppose. Now you have mentioned the 94XX I'll try switching the Next18's around and see if that makes a difference (the 94XX had a Bachmann decoder) Luke Thanks Luke. I've just turned off Back EMF and everything is fine. I won't bother with the auto calibration now. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 10 hours ago, Richard Croft said: I've fitted sound into one earlier. Its a good design for sound fitting, the built in speaker is good and theres plenty of space for the next18 decoder. I had to alter the settings on the SWD sound file to suit the coreless motor PLEASE BE AWARE IT IS NOT A CORELESS MOTOR! It is a conventional skew-wound 5-pole motor. (CJL) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WishIHadAName Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 11 hours ago, Richard Croft said: I've fitted sound into one earlier. Its a good design for sound fitting, the built in speaker is good and theres plenty of space for the next18 decoder. I had to alter the settings on the SWD sound file to suit the coreless motor Looked at website is the cost less if you dont have a speaker with it? Theirs no option for that I can see on website? Never had sound before and just want to plug and play. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pre Grouping fan Posted February 13, 2021 Share Posted February 13, 2021 1 minute ago, WishIHadAName said: Looked at website is the cost less if you dont have a speaker with it? Theirs no option for that I can see on website? Never had sound before and just want to plug and play. No, the speaker is fitted as standard which seems to be coming the norm for Bachmann as well. The only discount you get is if you are a Model Rail subscriber. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted February 13, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2021 On 06/02/2021 at 11:31, gwrrob said: If it's of any use , I ordered mine in early June 2019 and haven't had a despatched email as yet. An update to this as I've now had my despatch email so it looks like early June 2019 orders are now being processed. Should get it early next week. 5 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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