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Peco Asymmetric 3 Way Turnout (SL-E199)

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Does anybody have a copy of the instruction sheet for Peco Asymmetric 3 Way Turnout (SL-E199). I have lost mine and have forgotten how to wire the point.

Any help would be most grateful.

 

Regards

 

Alan

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Not the original sheet, but how's this?

 

Not my thread but what a fantastic way of explaining what goes where, especially for someone like me who is not the brightest bulb in the box when it comes to electrics :blink:.

 

All the best, Martyn. P.S. You haven't got a similiar picture with a double slip by any chance :rolleyes:.

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Your bulb must be a bit brighter than mine.......

I don't see how it actually switches power apart from to the frogs because of the insulating joints, or is that how its wired up for DCC?

Jim

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Lost my wiring sheet too so i did this before lifting the track last year....

post-6680-127154379812.jpg

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Hi,

 

You have to have those insulated joints after the frogs or the polarity would keep changing with the point throw and cause a short further down the line where ever the loco is situated. You would put wire droppers ( like jump leads ) to continue the feed from before the point under the base board until after the insulated joints ( hope that makes sense !!!). The wiring shown is for both DC and DCC ( I'm fairly certain :blink: )

 

Martyn.

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Handy diagrams which may prove useful to this numbskull in the electrickery department. If one of those points were to be used at the entrance to three shed / yard roads worked by "one engine in steam" then presumably no switching is necessary since all three roads would be dead-ends and only a single locomotive would be shunting there. Correct? I have one of the asymmetric points firmly in mind for my next project which will be much smaller than the current one!

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Handy diagrams which may prove useful to this numbskull in the electrickery department. If one of those points were to be used at the entrance to three shed / yard roads worked by "one engine in steam" then presumably no switching is necessary since all three roads would be dead-ends and only a single locomotive would be shunting there. Correct? I have one of the asymmetric points firmly in mind for my next project which will be much smaller than the current one!

Even if the points are leading to dead-end sidings you still need the switching. Otherwise the frogs will be dead and locos will stall on the points. What you can dispense with though is the insulated rail joiners, provided none of the sidings have their own track feeds. However, if you are using DCC then it's best (but not mandatory) to include the IRJs and add feeds to the sidings, so that loco lights and sound still operate even if the points are switched for a different road.

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Hi,

 

You have to have those insulated joints after the frogs or the polarity would keep changing with the point throw and cause a short further down the line where ever the loco is situated. You would put wire droppers ( like jump leads ) to continue the feed from before the point under the base board until after the insulated joints ( hope that makes sense !!!). The wiring shown is for both DC and DCC ( I'm fairly certain :blink: )

 

Martyn.

Yes, that makes sense. Thankyou!

Jim

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Hi,

 

You have to have those insulated joints after the frogs or the polarity would keep changing with the point throw and cause a short further down the line where ever the loco is situated. You would put wire droppers ( like jump leads ) to continue the feed from before the point under the base board until after the insulated joints ( hope that makes sense !!!). The wiring shown is for both DC and DCC ( I'm fairly certain :blink: )

 

Martyn.

 

Not strictly correct here! If the roads leading off the points are dead-end sidings, with no track feeds of their own, then you do not need the insulated rail joiners as this will make the tracks self-isolating. This may well be desirable in DC. As my previous post said, you may want to power these sidings on a DCC layout so that loco lights and sounds always operate regardless of the settings of the points. In this situation you need the IRJs.

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Not my thread but what a fantastic way of explaining what goes where, especially for someone like me who is not the brightest bulb in the box when it comes to electrics :blink:.

 

All the best, Martyn. P.S. You haven't got a similiar picture with a double slip by any chance :rolleyes:.

 

Hi,

 

Perhaps Martin hasn't come back to this thread and you are still waiting, if so, below is a drawing of my connections [for SEEP but the idea is the same], briefly the switches on one motor change the frog polarity for the opposite end of the slip, once that is in your head you are half-way there. I have also connected my track feeds at A and B.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Doug

 

 

post-106-127740202556_thumb.jpg

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Hi Doug,

 

Thank you for the info as they say better late than never, I always check up on my old threads from time to time and the double slip is still like my layout, at the planning stage. I remember someone saying it's just like wiring 2 points back to back, but to have a diagram to me is a more comfortable option to have, so thanks once again for the info, it will come in handy soon I hope:rolleyes:.

 

ATB, Martyn.

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Hi, hope this helps.

Nigelcool.gif

Hey, thats my drawing... ah well, saves me posting it! :D

 

Andi

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Hi Guys,

Trying to help my pal who has one of these three way points. He has it installed in his depot layout, and operates the point manually. But he also has a bank of switches, ( two way switches with centre off). Every time he changes the point, he has to switch 3 or 4 switches one way or another, including some at the centre off position....it looks awfully complex.

 

Is there a simpler polarity switching method he can use.

 

Bob

Edited by 250BOB

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Trying to get my head round all this as I'd like to use 3 way points in the future! Are the switches Single Pole Double Throw switches? I was thinking of switching the points manually and using slide switches to change polarity?

Steve

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Trying to get my head round all this as I'd like to use 3 way points in the future! Are the switches Single Pole Double Throw switches? I was thinking of switching the points manually and using slide switches to change polarity?

Steve

Hi Steve, this is what my pal is currently doing, but I do believe it can be somewhat simplified from the way he is doing it, and I wondered if someone on here can help us out.

Bob.

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Yes, the switches are single pole, double throw, or changeover switches as some people like to call them.

 

For DC operation, IF all the roads from the point are dead ended - i.e. don't connect to the rest of the layout, you can dispense with the insulated joiners and the point will isolate the roads not currently selected.

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Yes, the switches are single pole, double throw, or changeover switches as some people like to call them.

 

For DC operation, IF all the roads from the point are dead ended - i.e. don't connect to the rest of the layout, you can dispense with the insulated joiners and the point will isolate the roads not currently selected.

Hi Ian,

Thanks for your reply....is it really that simple.? It is for my pal, but if we can do it simply for him, then I would be tempted to use one. The point will be hand operated, just requiring polarity switching.

So we just follow the wiring as per post #5n using 2 x SPDT switches...?????

Bob.

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I have the same issue. I purchased the Peco Accessory switch. it is designed to glue on to the underside of a peco switch machine. so... I dremneled the plastic ridges off so that it will glue up to the baseboard. I used double sided tape to stick it under the Peco theeway turnout. I have used a diode lead wire to go through the the turnout throw bar and through the accessory switch (SPDT). The problem is that there is too much slop in the mechanical linkage and the electrical switching is un reliable.

 

Does anyone have a good solution?

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Mount a mini SPDT slide switch from Maplins beside each throwbar, so that the switch moves in the same direction as the throw-bar - drill a hole through the top of the switch across the direction of throw - use metal guitar string with an omega loop or Z-bend between the throw-bar and the switch, and wire them per the PECO diagtram - the Omega loop will take up any excess travel

Edited by shortliner

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Guest Dave.C

I have just installed one of these in my fiddle-yard and will operate the point manually but with two switches to control the frogs.

 

I am a little confused by coachmans post and diagram above where he has one switch fed from the other, but from the other posts I think that I need the switch adjacent to point A on my diagram to operate frog 1& 2. And switch B to operate frogs 3.

 

Is this correct?

 

Thanks

 

 

11-12-30-04.jpg

Edited by Arte

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Guest Dave.C

Ok, my last post was correct as I have it up and running now.

 

To aid those that follow looking for similar help, this is how I have it:

 

11-12-31-01.jpg

 

As already mentioned, I am operating the points by hand and using the switches for frog polarity.

 

Point A is conected to Switch A and operates Frogs A. It is a simple case of pull the point, pull the switch.

 

I have a little chart on the wall next to it to give the combinations for track 1,2 or 3.

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If it works, then good, but.....why not use a 3-position rotary switch? Then you will know for certain that you have the right setting for each route and you can throw away the chart :-)

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Guest Dave.C

Good idea, thanks.

 

I had those switches anyway, but I may look at a rotary one as I have a sneaky suspicion that there might be a few kicking around at the Club

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