Grovenor Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I am a little confused by coachmans post and diagram above where he has one switch fed from the other, but from the other posts I think that I need the switch adjacent to point A on my diagram to operate frog 1& 2. And switch B to operate frogs 3. Actually it makes no difference whether you follow Coachman's drawing or gwrman's drawing, they are equally correct alternatives. Personally I go with the 3-way switch approach, you need one with 2 poles and the wiring is essentially the same. (They usually come with 4 poles, the other 2 can be used for operation of point motors if provided later. Regards Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 I have one to do for DC. I have two never used before Tortoise motors for changing the frogs. Is the wiring the same as before i.e what wire goes where on the Tortoises? each has 1-8 connectors !! thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted February 26, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) Connectors 1 and 8 go to the switch powering the motors. 2-4 form one polarity switch (2 & 3 to the track or DCC bus, 4 is the frog) and 5-7 are the other switch (5 is the frog, 6 and 7 track/DCC bus). The wires to 2/3 or 6/7 may have to be reversed to set the correct polarity. Should be a diagram of this in the Tortoise instruction leaflet. Edited February 26, 2013 by RFS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Many thanks for info Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
retiredoperator Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 Hi Modellers. The Peco Three way asymmetric point is an handsome beast okay, but, to me it is a beast. Before I purchased my “space saving marvel” I didn’t realise that it didn’t save as much space as I had assumed it would. Now I have a fight on my hands to get it in my limited yard. I may have been better off using a pair of Peco large radius right hand electrofrog points instead, okay I would have lossed siding length, but I would have one long siding and two a bit shorter. Please advise happy modelling Kev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted October 1, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 1, 2018 What sort of advice can we provide? The three-way point is a space saver because it is, asymetric or otherwise, two simple turnouts overlapped into one length of track. I am currently at the stage of tracklaying towards where mine will sit. I understand the wiring rather better these days (my post above is now several years old) and will not need the insulating joiners beyond the points because all roads are dead-end sidings. In other words there is nothing to short circuit. Which ever way the points lie they will provide potential to one track while offering none to the other two. Or in simpler terms if you think “red and black” then the approach track has one red and one black rail, as does the road set. The other two roads have two red rails meaning nothing on those will move. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
retiredoperator Posted December 11, 2018 Share Posted December 11, 2018 Hi Modellers. Up until now I have had no trouble with Peco Electrofrog Right Hand Or Left Hand Point Control by “ wire in tube “ . And I don’t expect to have a problem with WIT and the three way asymmetric point, but, the frog wiring may be a different saga? I have all the wires in position two wires and the third separate , which leaves the “ bus wires” . On either the R/ H or L/ H you only require the two bus wires, simples , but, what do I do with the spare wires? on the three way point? Happy Modelling Kev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted December 11, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 11, 2018 Hi Modellers. Up until now I have had no trouble with Peco Electrofrog Right Hand Or Left Hand Point Control by “ wire in tube “ . And I don’t expect to have a problem with WIT and the three way asymmetric point, but, the frog wiring may be a different saga? I have all the wires in position two wires and the third separate , which leaves the “ bus wires” . On either the R/ H or L/ H you only require the two bus wires, simples , but, what do I do with the spare wires? on the three way point? Happy Modelling Kev The frogs must be powered by a switch which is what these wires are for. Best see the instructions for how to do this.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
retiredoperator Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 Hi All. Wiring Sheet? Wiring Sheet? Everyone talks about a wiring sheet.But, I never got one? A diagram on the card that came in the package, but not a sheet. Or is that what everyone means? Youtubers make it look so simple, but I think I ‘m getting too old for Simples? Is there a sheet or a card? Kev Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted February 8, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2019 I should make this a sticky note 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hilton Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 Sorry to revive an old thread, as this makes sense in terms of DC... however, I threw away the instructions with my own example! I've read the whole thread, with DCC, do I need one or two frog juicers? It looks like just two from 'Redgatemodels' DC illustration - as two of the frogs are always switched the same way? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted February 11, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 11, 2022 Juicer, microswitch, relay whatever, you only need two Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trog Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 I thought that there was a video about this by a Mr Shifter, I seem to remember something about can you wire a tandem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Freeman Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 It must be about 17 years since I encountered one of these. I remember I had to alter it to be DCC friendly, bonding the blades to the stock rails and isolating the common crossings. Apart from reducing the danger of wheels possibly shorting, it also does away with the dubious practice of relying on blade contact for electrical switching. The layout used Tortoise point motors, so the spare contacts were used to switch polarity. Basically the 2 nearest common crossings are switched together, the one furthest away isn't Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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