Jump to content
 

I was thinking of having a go with Dingham couplings would anyone recommend them


MarcD
 Share

Recommended Posts

My father has been struggling shunting with 3 link couplings so I was wondering if it fitted some of the stock with dingham auto couplings what do people think?

 

Marc 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Marc,

 

I went down the Sprat&Winkle route for Exhibition use, but only because Dingham equipped stock had to face the same way (I believe), but Dinghams are pretty unobtrusive, and fiddling about with 3 links can be a pain.

 

Struggling to see and hook up stock can take the pleasure out of shunting, so why not? I know there are many who say it's just a matter of getting the right hook etc. but that doesn't help if the eyesight is going, the hands are getting shaky, or the layout is operated from the front, and people don't want to see your back. It also enables the operator to sit down while operating.

 

The other advantage of them is that they remain compatible with other 3 link stock, so it might be worth doing half a dozen wagons as a starter, to see how he gets on with them, the key is getting the magnets in the right place. Small neodymium magnets in the ballast between sleepers are easily hidden, though were I starting from scratch I would go for electro magnets.

 

Peter

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been using the 4mm version for at least 15 years now and have never regretted the change from 3 link. As mentioned above they are unobtrusive and despite being single ended, think about it, how often do you turn goods stock?

 

Cheers,

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

Chaz Harrison of Dock Green fame uses them. I have operated the layout a few time times and can vouch for their effectiveness. They do, however, need to be handled with care as they can easily be bent by rough handling. 

 

CK

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been using Dinghams on Offerston Quay for a couple of years now. If they are set up right (i.e. all the same height and all horizontal) then they work perfectly well.

 

I described a cosmetic improvement over on my workbench thread here.

 

I use electromagnets made from cheap ebay solenoids to activate them when required.

 

They are fiddly to make but, for my money, the least obtrusive auto-coupling.

 

True, they are single-ended but if your stock isn't turned (as mine isn't) then this is not an issue. The Dingham instructions do describe a way of fitting a hook-and-loop to both ends of a loco to allow it to be turned, but I've not seen this in operation. If I do occasionally want a loco to face the other way for a time, I just swap the couplings end-for-end or use the cosmetic 3-link or screw coupling in the traditional way. My Dinghams are (mostly) held in with a spring and split pin, so swapping them only takes a minute.

 

Just remember to blacken them with Brass Black or even a sharpie to help them blend in!

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been using them on my own layouts and on Leeds MRS club layouts for about fifteen years. Being single ended is no problem unless you have a wagon turntable I suppose but don't fit all your locos the same way round that's a bit boring.

Fitted and set up properly they work well. The "flat latch" is better than the bent one and care is needed fitting them under corridor connections (it may be necessary to cut away the floor)

I have been using half a redundant H&M point motor with a piece of nail thro' the core as a solenoid.

 

NIck

 

PS It is worth making a jig to get consistent height from the rail head for the loop.

Edited by Nicktoix
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have tried to contact Trevor at Dinghans but the emails keep bouncing back. Has anyone else had problems getting hold of him?

Marc

 

I bought some about a month ago. Very prompt response as usual from Trevor. Are you using the couplers@dingham.co.uk address to make contact?

 

I made a jig to get the height of each set consistent.

 

post-24137-0-83140200-1528561277_thumb.jpg  post-24137-0-96244900-1528561348_thumb.jpg

 

The couplers are easily adjusted with gentle bending to get the height of the loop set correctly, so long as the coupler hole is approximately in the right position.

I'm glad I tried them, and they make operating a pleasure rather than a chore.

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Marc,

 

Although you find the instructions included perfectly adequate, I found these guides on making them a particularly useful addition

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/456/entry-7377-dinghams-part-2/

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/456/entry-7387-dinghams-part3/

 

Part one disappeared into cyberspace somewhere, but that didn't hamper me. I am guessing it was possibly preamble and about prepping the fret and removing the parts from the fret.

I used a fine Garryflex abrasive pad to thoroughly clean the fret  (both sides) before cutting out any pieces.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Has anyone used the Lincs couplings successfully? 

Yes, but they lack the ability to delay uncoupling, so you need an uncoupling magnet at every location you wish to uncouple at.

 

One of the reasons I chose the Dingham coupler system was because it just fits through the existing draw hook slot.  No need for any base plates or other adaptors.

 

The only issue I have had is trying to get the loop end to work well when they are fitted to locos with deep buffer planks. (I know Chaz over at Dock Green has fitted them to his Ixion Fowler, so it must be me that is having a blind moment.)

 

 

 

 

Edited by Happy Hippo
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Or B&B Couplings?  I've seen them demonstrated by their designer (I think) several years ago and they seemed pretty reasonable

 

We use them on our club layout and find they keep needing adjustment. However, that may be because they're not treated as kindly as they should be by the several different members who aren't regular layout operators! You can couple 3 links/ screw couplings to them but it can be a bit of a faff to do so.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Yes, but they lack the ability to delay uncoupling, so you need an uncoupling magnet at every location you wish to uncouple at.

 

 

 

The only issue I have had is trying to get the loop end to work well when they are fitted to locos with deep buffer planks. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have found that you have to reshape the arm that supports the loop for the soft-iron wire tail as this will foul the face of a deep buffer beam. If you are not intending to use magnetic uncoupling you could just cut it off. Problem solved.

 

Chaz

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I have found that you have to reshape the arm that supports the loop for the soft-iron wire tail as this will foul the face of a deep buffer beam. If you are not intending to use magnetic uncoupling you could just cut it off. Problem solved.

 

Chaz

Or get rid of my Fowler! :jester:

 

Seriously, I've not been too bothered about it at present as the loco is in pieces awaiting the fitting of a sound decoder and some stay alive capacitors.

 

Fiddling with the position of the dropper arm makes sense, although I've also considered getting the coupling to stand off further from the buffer plank.  There is always going to be a solution to the problem.

 

I'm also looking into replacing the soldered in pivots with a small (16 BA) screw and nut as then you could bend up and fit rather than the fiddly partial bend and then mess around trying to get everything lined up so it is in line and the lugs are parallel to each other.

 

If it's successful, I may even retrofit them to the rest of the fleet.

 

This is not as onerous as it may first appear as my fleet tends to run in rakes, so  although locos and brake vans are fitted with a Dingham at each end, wagons run in various block lengths with a Dingham at each end of  the block.  Wagons in the middle being coupled via the existing three link couplers.

 

The only exception to this is the auto coach and attendant 64xx tank loco which is a stand alone unit, so the screw couplings are more than adequate.

 

Perhaps I'm being over fussy as everyone else seems to get along fine with the coupling as made.

 

It's just I prefer a more engineered solution.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My father has been struggling shunting with 3 link couplings so I was wondering if it fitted some of the stock with dingham auto couplings what do people think?

 

Marc 

Hi Marc,

Since I have been exhibiting Queens Street Yard I have changed from three link couplings to Dinghams in 7mm scale. All my stock is built with three links but the stock specifically used for QSY  has been adapted.  The  Dinghams on the layout are not strictly the full item as I only have loops at one end of each wagon and I have omitted the catch or latch that allows shunting with out coupling.  This came about because the layout was scenically complete and I did not want to start hacking everything about to install magnet below the track! They seem to be height critical to operate well. My rolling stock is from a variety of sources and consequently there is slight variation in the level of the coupling pockets of each wagon creating a mis-match and problems coupling up. I uncouple the wagons manually with a small "shunting pole" made of stiff wire attached to a pen light. this is used to simply lift the loop when coupling or uncoupling .

They are much easier on a small cameo layout but need critical setting up to be really user friendly.

 

Gerry   

Link to post
Share on other sites

We used Dingham’s on our industrial foundry layout. They were easy to make, fit and use on the quite sharply curved sections but did not take kindly to gradient changes.

Stock frequently uncoupled behind the loco when the train came to the down gradient. Especially bad when the loop was at the leading end. Turning stock round did help but as there were gradients in both directions they were never completely reliable.

Ian.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...