Departmental203 Posted November 23, 2018 Author Share Posted November 23, 2018 As said previously, here are a few (terrible) images of my about to be BSK 35469... My method of attaching the Bachmann Commonwealth bogies, using cheap M5 bolts and nuts (B&Q) Previously, I have done some work to the bogies by trying to add NEM pockets (the couplings project out by like 5 scale feet too far!! ) Will be revisiting that then! Cut a slot on the face of the bolt to take a flat headed screwdriver The bolt has been cut just to clear the interior, not too noticeable when the body is on And, since this is a brake vehicle, the battery boxes need to be facing each other. I have moved it...but took off some of the detail while drilling it out! (Better reach for Microstrip...) And, sitting on one of the fiddle yard roads Hope you can see the photos well enough!!! Jules 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted November 24, 2018 Author Share Posted November 24, 2018 (edited) After a great time at the Falkirk show, I picked up these two ancient, but useable models. Both Hornby models, and picked up at the sum of £13 (thanks to Ross Cameron at the show) Ross has an extensive range of second-hand models for cheap, so if you meet him, see if you can find a decent second-hand model! The Hornby OAA. The model's body is crisply moulded indeed, hovever, the chassis looks horrible and the wheels ride too high. A comparison with a Cambrian OCA: Comparing the model's wheels to Alan Gibson wheels, the diameters are the same as well as having a representation of a disc brake pad! (The Hornby wheels have thicker flanges, but it's no problem for me!) Finally, the Hornby TTA. I do believe some of of the parts will scrub up well, despite it's age. And, any good sources fo OAA brake levers? Jules Edited November 24, 2018 by Departmental203 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted December 26, 2018 Author Share Posted December 26, 2018 (edited) Hope everybody had an excellent Christmas and hope for an outstanding New Year! Very sorry for the lack of updates, my attention has swiched to the layout and exams coming up=Arrgggh!! First up, thanks goes to Will for showing us how to get into a 56's gearbox! It made a grinding noise, just oiling required in the gears!! However, I think I'll need to clean the wheels as well!! A couple of photos of it: Also decided to crack on with wagon projects. So, over to my two ZBA Rudds! All engineers wagons seem to get quite bashed about, so here's my take on it: The first thing is to scratch the sides up, I used the point on a screwdriver, if you have an awl, congratulations, you've done a better job than me!! Then I try to paint into the scratches then end up washing most of it off. Actually dulls down the wagon nicely!! Eventually, I can get the brush into the scrach, however, the lines are a bit wide!! Also on the ends: Sorry for the very long update, just haven't done anything in a while!! Thanks for reading this far And, thanks again Will, wherever you are!! Jules Edited December 26, 2018 by Departmental203 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted January 9, 2019 Author Share Posted January 9, 2019 Hey guys, since it's the new year, it's a new update Been working on these ones again! I have used rectangle shape brass, to create these NEM pockets, which spare couplings I had slot into... Make sure you get the height of these right BEFORE dolloping loads of epoxy glue! It called for a new "plate" to be fabricated! Finally, some progress on this one... Took this one outside and sprayed!! (in January too!) :nono: Not a reccomended thing to do! And, I see red! Jules 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 Nice work Jules...quite a little engineer's fleet you’re building up there! Jack. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 Pretty much-varied small wagons! Cheers Jack Jules Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted January 24, 2019 Author Share Posted January 24, 2019 A quick little update during prelims (pratcice exams), have been fairly busy... On the MHA, adding the yellow band And removing all of the brake pipes and realised I needed to retain them on one side As well as the odd small job and been working on a MFA, for a while now... More for later Jules 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arpleymodeller Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 (edited) Hiya mate just seen your post you left on my workbench thread last summer! (Shows how much I come on here!) Sorry for that Absolutely excellent work on the MHA ! Looks just as good as the resin skits version. I'm wanting to create a couple of these wagons might do what you have and make my own. What thickness/grade of styrene strip and sheet did you use? Cheers Lewis Edited January 27, 2019 by Arpleymodeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted January 27, 2019 Author Share Posted January 27, 2019 Hey Lewis, haven't heard from you in ages! It's nothing special, for the vertical ribbing 1mm x 1mm Plastrut Section was used, the sides used 60 thou plasticard sheet to counter warping...as seen on the Hornby MHA's! The top ribs, was a 2-step process, as I laid slithers of 20 thou strip sheet and put 2mm by 1mm strip on top I think, shaped to the angle found on these MHA's with scalpel and sandpaper and do it with care, as I shaved a huge chunk off and repaired it a small piece of plastic sheet.. I did sand the inside of the ends, and sides with Tamiya paper, to kind of thin them down...but not as thin as Hornby did for reasons above!! Don't forget to score the groove found on the lower part of the ends, I almolst forgot!! I used photos, simple maths and measurements from a Hornby MHA to build the body up, this MHA has 11 side ribs, spaced equally from each other. I'm just working on how to attach the body to the chassis, epoxy resin is on the horizon... Also, I'm wondering how to get an SKits catalouge, as they do not have a website.. This is a lot of reading, but I hope this (sort of) helps Any questions just ping a PM and good luck! Jules Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arpleymodeller Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 Hello Jules, Well thanks for that, definetly looks like a late build MHA! I've heard back from the email I sent George at S kits, so got a couple of his resin MHA bodies coming! If you want to order anything his email is; skitsinfo@btinternet.com I've got his latest 2019 catalogue? Ill PM it you if you want to have a look. Regards Lewis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 (edited) Cheers Lewis, I hope to order parts as projects go! Still trying to get used to the new RM Web update, but it's brilliant! Time for paints (again) mostly involving these two colours! As recommended by Tim Shackleton as two excellent rust colours : think he is truly correct! First stage is a SMOOTH coat of Humbrol 62 , as shown on (going to be) ZBA DB986446 Then a coat of Revell 84 (shown on ZBA DB972761), I try to get the brush strokes horizontal, to represent rain water washing down Also did it on OCA 112144, Revell 84 next. On one of my MFA'sthe running was erratic and after a couple of tests, the wheels were the problem (thought it was the chassis' fault!!) Swapped the wheels with another MFA=perfect running! However, the "donor" MFA is using Gibson wheels, so, I tried to paint the brake pads (Humbrol 27002, if your'e interested) Finally, some progress on the Hornby TTA, namely removing the horrid mould line in the middle. I'm trying to model a short TTA rake just like the Fort William workings with 56302 up front, I'm struggling with the tank numbers right now If any reader can post some info, that will be appreciated Many thanks Jules Edited February 2, 2019 by Departmental203 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arpleymodeller Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 Great work on weathering and representing rust I will have to try this out! Also great to see someone modelling the humble RUDD ! Are these the Parkside Dundas kits? Or Hornbys model? Also how do you get so many images on a post? Do you resize them? Lewis 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted February 6, 2019 Author Share Posted February 6, 2019 With the mentioned rusting method, it is too easy to get the colour too dark, like I got the MHA I'm building! Sandpaper flattened this and I'll probabaly start again! Always make sure you get the Humbrol 62 Matt Leather coat smooth, otherwise the Revell 84 looks too rough. And yes, I use Parkside kits for the Rudds, I was so desparate to include Parkside kits in my fleet, I added them to the current day layout despite being withdrawn in 2008! (And the photo of DB986446 dates back to 2001!!!) About the images, the camera I use only captures a small area, so it was no problem for me!! (but the quality is terrible, sorry!) Hope I have answered all of your questions, mate! Jules Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 Another wagon update (for the umpteenth time) ZBA now (finally) has an identity and warning flashes I've been having a little problem with the Railtec flashes, as they seem to curl up the second they see Micro Set/Sol and couldn't stick it behind the handrail on the wagon ends. (Handrail is scrachbuilt from brass wire) I used a George Dent method, I brushed some Humbrol gloss varnish and stuck the transfer while it was still wet. It is probably due to the small size of the transfer or lack of surface prep that causes this, or that Railtec transfers just don't like Micro Set/Sol. As from the second photo, that method worked a treat. I then used some Humbrol rattle can varnish to seal the transfers in, I'll apply a second coat tomorrow! The same varnish dulled down 112144 very nicely, as it was a nice gloss, after one coat!! Still will put on a second coat though. Any comments on my attempt on painting a wooden floor? I'm trying to replicate a Tim Shackleton method, but I don't possess anywhere near his talent! Thanks, Jules 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 These photos will explain my method of attaching the body to the chassis on the MHA A piece of 40 thou plasticard that fits into the shallow recess of an HAA/ MHA body forms my simple aligning "mechanism" The body will remain separate from the chassis until it is decalled and varnish, it may be a while before body and chassis is glued then! That's it for now if I can push myself, some other projects may takeoff soon (which could also take a while!) Jules 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dj_crisp Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 A great set of projects! Cheers Will 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arpleymodeller Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 More excellent work mate, think the floor looks very good on the OCA, maybe add some scraps of balsa wood or other "bits" that often get left in these wagons as left overs from loads. Also superb work on the MHA is this going to be the sole DB red one? My EWS one is ready for decals now, I've already glued the body to the chassis! Keep up the good work! Lewis 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest teacupteacup Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 On 11/02/2019 at 20:37, Departmental203 said: I've been having a little problem with the Railtec flashes, as they seem to curl up the second they see Micro Set/Sol and couldn't stick it behind the handrail on the wagon ends. (Handrail is scrachbuilt from brass wire) I used a George Dent method, I brushed some Humbrol gloss varnish and stuck the transfer while it was still wet. It is probably due to the small size of the transfer or lack of surface prep that causes this, or that Railtec transfers just don't like Micro Set/Sol. As from the second photo, that method worked a treat. I then used some Humbrol rattle can varnish to seal the transfers in, I'll apply a second coat tomorrow! Thanks, Jules Always use a gloss base to apply waterslide transfers, this enables them to adhere to the model (and gets rid of silvering). You dont need to apply the transfers when the varnish is wet, let it dry fully first, apply the transfer and after a while, gloss over the transfers before adding any satin/matt varnishes and weathering etc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 21 hours ago, dj_crisp said: A great set of projects! Cheers Will Hey Will! Haven't heard from you in a while, I guess it's from the pain from work etc etc! In a couple of years time (or sooner?), some loco projects might end up on the workbench, in fact, my Bachmann 170 is awaiting wiring as the pickup wires came off after too much vigour with the fiberglass pencil. Dirtiest pickups I've ever seen (cleaned now) Also, ta for the 56 advice 20 hours ago, Arpleymodeller said: More excellent work mate, think the floor looks very good on the OCA, maybe add some scraps of balsa wood or other "bits" that often get left in these wagons as left overs from loads. Also superb work on the MHA is this going to be the sole DB red one? My EWS one is ready for decals now, I've already glued the body to the chassis! Keep up the good work! Lewis 2 Thanks as usual Lewis! Probably use some greys, browns and greens to further refine the floor (and the striped insides of my sole OBA 110516) Certainly will add some sort of junk that always gets left on these wagons. And yes, I guess this will be the only DB liveried example of my fleet (unless DB decide to repaint some more wagons including ZCA's, MTA's YGA's or if I decide to model 391034, which Jack did a nice model of) For decals, I will probably ask nicely to Railtec to produce some for me 3 hours ago, teacupteacup said: Always use a gloss base to apply waterslide transfers, this enables them to adhere to the model (and gets rid of silvering). You dont need to apply the transfers when the varnish is wet, let it dry fully first, apply the transfer and after a while, gloss over the transfers before adding any satin/matt varnishes and weathering etc 4 Thanks Teacup, I did read George's tip on his Definite Guide To Painting and decided to give it a go. It's just that I can't be bothered to apply an entire model of gloss varnish, just applying patches where the transfers go seems to work for me! (for wagons!) I hope you wagon projects are coming on well, thanks! Cheers for these comments, gentlemen Jules Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest teacupteacup Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 4 hours ago, Departmental203 said: Thanks Teacup, I did read George's tip on his Definite Guide To Painting and decided to give it a go. It's just that I can't be bothered to apply an entire model of gloss varnish, just applying patches where the transfers go seems to work for me! (for wagons!) I hope you wagon projects are coming on well, thanks! Cheers for these comments, gentlemen Jules Hi Jules On most stock you can get away with just glossing the areas where the decals go, then matt varnishing on top to blend it in. Preparation is always the key! All decal manufacturers recommend applying to a gloss surface Keep up the good work! Joe Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 Buffers have finally arrived! Picked up a few packs of Accurascale of the OLEO 13" sized ones, a friend from Scottish Modelers told me they were suitable for the HAA/MHA wagons. First job is to remove the old buffers and I used, pliers, a twisting motion, and a bit of force to pull the old buffers away, which I think I may reuse later... After a look at a reference photo, I realised I would have to shape the buffer backplate to size, as the Accurascale buffers did not have these on them. One scalpel job later... The areas of white Posca pen highlighted the size difference (left one being the original, right one modified), as the camera could not pick up the detail!! A new set of pin vices from Squires were required for the next job, making a representation of the fixing bolts for the buffers, I used spare (very fine) brass tube to represent this: I used a combination of EMA plastic weld and superglue (used sparingly, to avoid seizing it up) to attach these new buffers. And oh boy, they are a sharp contrast from the old chunky buffers as these photos show. Thanks for reading! Jules 1 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 Looking great Jules, it makes a massive improvement! I’ll be following suit when I get round to my rake...it’s good to know the Accurascale buffers work well. Thanks, Jack. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Departmental203 Posted March 2, 2019 Author Share Posted March 2, 2019 On 01/03/2019 at 09:03, Jack374 said: Looking great Jules, it makes a massive improvement! I’ll be following suit when I get round to my rake...it’s good to know the Accurascale buffers work well. Thanks, Jack. One down, three to go! Cheers Jack Jules Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arpleymodeller Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 Great work on the buffer replacement Jules! Yes the HAA series had 13" head Oleos as standard. A much easier and simpler route is to use the Lanarkshire modelling supplies BP01 13" Oleo which are superb cast white metal items I use them for my MHAs Regards Lewis 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold McC Posted March 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 5, 2019 On 01/03/2019 at 09:03, Jack374 said: Looking great Jules, it makes a massive improvement! I’ll be following suit when I get round to my rake...it’s good to know the Accurascale buffers work well. Thanks, Jack. Thanks guys - they look superb - and sprung too! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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