SIMBA1OFF Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 I have decided to try 7mm gauge. Recently I purchased a parkside van kit. Most of the kit went together very well but I cannot see in the instructions if you need to add weight to the model. Can someone please advise as I’m ready to glue on the roof. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 The rule of thumb is 1gm per mm of length (Gauge O Guild, which, by the way, is worth joining). They usually require some weight. Glad you've joined the O gauge gang. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 Welcome to the group. I see you too are on this side of the pond. I too am fairly new and trying to figure how it’s done over in England 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMBA1OFF Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 The rule of thumb is 1gm per mm of length (Gauge O Guild, which, by the way, is worth joining). They usually require some weight. Glad you've joined the O gauge gang. John Thanks for the reply Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guius Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 The rule of thumb is 1gm per mm of length (Gauge O Guild, which, by the way, is worth joining). They usually require some weight. Glad you've joined the O gauge gang. John I too would recommend joining the Gauge O Guild. It has lots of benefits as well as serving to broaden your 7mm horizons, best of luck. Guy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 The rule of thumb is 1gm per mm of length (Gauge O Guild, which, by the way, is worth joining). They usually require some weight. Glad you've joined the O gauge gang. John I guess for us on the "other side of the pond" I think that works out to 1 ounce per 1 inch of length. Steve 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 The best rule for weight is simply "enough", which for an indoor layout may be nothing at all. I don't routinely put weight inside Parkside or Slaters wagons and they run perfectly well on our club's exhibition layout, where we frequently run 20-25 wagon freights. Every bit as important is that wagons should be free running, and maintained that way. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 The best rule for weight is simply "enough", which for an indoor layout may be nothing at all. I don't routinely put weight inside Parkside or Slaters wagons and they run perfectly well on our club's exhibition layout, where we frequently run 20-25 wagon freights. Every bit as important is that wagons should be free running, and maintained that way. Jim I have to say but like Jim I have never weighted Parkside vans. 16t coal wagons yes but only by virtue of a real coal load (sat on a raised bottom to avaoid filling it!). I have added lead to the underside of a D &S Lowmac as it was a long wheelbase wagon but usually if it runs well and has no rock I have not had problems on standard Peco track and points either hauling or propelling. I would however recommend adding a small (and I mean small) amount of superglue to the back of the wagon buffers to stop the nuts coming off. Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John K Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 I have decided to try 7mm gauge. Recently I purchased a parkside van kit. Most of the kit went together very well but I cannot see in the instructions if you need to add weight to the model. Can someone please advise as I’m ready to glue on the roof. Feel free to come and join this io group. https://groups.io/g/7mmrailwaymodelling Once you are there, there are no silly questions. Ask anything you like. John K Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcm@gwr Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 I do add weight to my wagons, partly because light wagons look a bit odd when they bounce about on pointwork or any uneven track (club layout), and partly so that all the wagons are a similar weight. The most common reason* for wagons derailing at the club is very light wagons in a rake of heavier ones, especially on the curved sections. *that, and poor back-to-back settings Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 Hello and welcome to the big stuff, the best move l have ever made, in answer to your question l think it's best to add a little weight to all of your stock, as it helps when running slowly over points etc.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 I guess the weight issue varies. I have found out over the years regardless of scale, you need some weight to make the wagon track well. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 Hi, Welcome to O gauge, just one more thought, if it's not too late, I usually put some crushed tissue, foam rubber, or fabric in vans, before the roof goes on, this helps stop it acting like a sound box. Otherwise they can rattle and sound like a plastic toy. Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Traxson Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 One other tip apart from trying to keep the weight of all vehicles similar is, when building vans and coaches, be sure to leave a breather some where in the vehicle so that solvent fumes can escape. A hole in the floor of some sort is all it needs, seeing a carefully assembled and painted kit bow and warp a few weeks after being finished is a heartbreaking sight. I am aware that I may well be in the realms of eggs and grandmothers here, and for that I apologise, but it never hurts to have a reminder now and then. Phil T. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 I have some self adhesive weights that I found in my hobby shop. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adhesive-Wheel-Balance-Weights-Strips/dp/B004UADSZA John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 John, I used some of the stick on weights under a van and they came unstuck. Not sure if it’s what I was trying to stick them too. But very handy. An open can have a layer on the floor and they hardly show. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 (edited) Bad luck Ernie, certainly the ones I have are very "grabby". Weight sometimes require us to think a bit. I've made compartments under opens in which I have put liquid lead (and no PVA ). John Edited July 5, 2018 by brossard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Foxley Posted July 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 5, 2018 (edited) I'm sure I read somewhere, at least when I was a member of GOG, that an ideal weight for most wagon kits in that size is 125g - don't quote me on that as it was a long time ago. But certainly a little weight can help. It also gives them a nice feel, rather than a plastic tinny toy. Good shout on stuffing inside a closed wagon for sound insulation. Edited July 5, 2018 by Mic Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 That's probably right Mic. Most 9' or 10' wb wagons seem to be around 125mm long. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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