Jump to content

TurboSnail

TurboSnail's Workbench - 3D Printing and General Bodgery

Recommended Posts

To save myself keeping too many plates spinning at once, I thought I'd start a workbench thread for my future projects and 3D printed locos. My other threads will run their course (notably the R/R1 chassis thread) but I'll start putting stuff on here rather than start making more new threads, such as 3D printed locos, modifying and detailing of RTR products, layout progress and maybe the occasional digression into non-pre-grouping stuff (gasp! surely not!). 

 

For the first project on this thread, it's a 3D printed loco kit, my first attempt at making a basic mixed-media kit - more details to follow but for now...

 

Can you tell what it is yet?

 

attachicon.gif1.JPG

Nice work. What software are you using?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Nice work. What software are you using?

 

I'm using an old version of SolidEdge, which is kind of like SolidWorks, but worse. But also cheaper, hence why I have it. It works for me but I don't think I'd recommend it, if I was starting from scratch now, I'd go for either SolidWorks or one of the Autodesk ones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Might have to jack up my prices then!  :jester:

 

As I'm making these models for myself as well, I don't really care about making a profit, as long as people can enjoy them. As far as costs go, my current projected cost for the F class, motorised but excluding paint and transfers (achieved with lots of hand-waving and guesstimation) is about £95, half of which is wheels from Markits. I think I can reduce that though, particularly if my alternative motor plan works and if I use a cheaper printing company.

 

EDIT: I should point out the that sum assumes you don't already have things like pickup wire, handrail knobs, couplings, detail parts etc. in your spares box.

Edited by TurboSnail
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will have to investigate this 3Dhubs producer myself and report back, as he looks very promising and (even better) cheaper than shapeways. The reports of this particular producer have been very good so I think it would be advisable to stick with just that one.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking forward to your feedback! I'm going to have a look into print surface finishing as well which would allow use of a cheaper printing method for some less visible parts, we'll see how that goes.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some rudimentary cab detail going in this afternoon, if anyone has any photos of an F class cab that would be very useful, as I'm just making guesses at the moment based on other locos and models. It's also fairly limited as you cannot print very fine detail like pipework and valves and have them come out properly, so those bits can be added with wire and plasticard later.

 

And yes, the splashers have to be that thick unfortunately, the downside of modelling in OO gauge.

 

post-25124-0-05187300-1529245300.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yesterday was very productive, lots of bits added to the F class model - all I can say is that Mr. Sterling was certainly fond of rivets! If there are any rivet-counters out there, do let me know how many there should be... Might turn my attention to the chassis for a bit and work out how it's going to be motorised and electrified.

 

post-25124-0-33578300-1529308790.jpg

 

post-25124-0-75191400-1529308796_thumb.jpg

post-25124-0-33578300-1529308790.jpg

post-25124-0-75191400-1529308796_thumb.jpg

post-25124-0-33578300-1529308790.jpg

post-25124-0-75191400-1529308796_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will have to investigate this 3Dhubs producer myself and report back, as he looks very promising and (even better) cheaper than shapeways. The reports of this particular producer have been very good so I think it would be advisable to stick with just that one.

 

I can vouch for 3Dhubs. Uploaded a few of my own designs and have found them to be roughly half of the price Shapeways charge for similar materials.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some rudimentary cab detail going in this afternoon, if anyone has any photos of an F class cab that would be very useful, as I'm just making guesses at the moment based on other locos and models.

 

attachicon.gif1F2.JPG

 

No, but I have a drawing that might help.

 

Will PM you later with some scans.

 

The drawing, and this picture of a 7mm model (not the clearest) relate to No.240, Onward, the 34th F Class and the Paris Exhibition loco. So, 1889 condition.

post-25673-0-94796200-1529315845_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-52132600-1529315878.jpg

Edited by Edwardian
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

An F in original condition... 

 

As they still say on the stopping trains into Reading by the SER line, better Earley than late.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Progress will probably be a bit slower from now on as I'm working 8-10+ hours a day on a uni project and the last thing on my mind when I get in at the end of the day is doing more CAD work. However, I have found some time this morning to update the cab detail a bit in accordance with Edwardian's drawings. It's going to be a case of adding all the pipework the old-fashioned way as it's all too fine to print, but at least it's a start.

 

post-25124-0-97642000-1529656965.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Progress will probably be a bit slower from now on as I'm working 8-10+ hours a day on a uni project and the last thing on my mind when I get in at the end of the day is doing more CAD work. However, I have found some time this morning to update the cab detail a bit in accordance with Edwardian's drawings. It's going to be a case of adding all the pipework the old-fashioned way as it's all too fine to print, but at least it's a start.

 

attachicon.gif1F5.JPG

 

Looking good, Tom

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Work has also started on the tender, but I think this is as far as I'll get today, cars don't build themselves!

 

post-25124-0-07580200-1529659739_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First off, I want an F-class, even if I have to sell a grandchild to get it. I would also consider a B and an F1, but not an A because the As had been rusticated by my modelling period. Can't remember if the B1s are in period for me.

 

I think I've seen a really good cab-photo for an F somewhere in my various books. I will scan and post if I can find it.

 

If a Stirling steam-reverser pump was produced as a separate print of good quality, then I'd probably buy a couple of those to to replace duff castings on some latent kits.

 

Finally, be very careful of the rivets. A lot of Ashford-built locos before 1900 had flush-head rivets which disappeared beneath paint. The rebuilds - F1, B1 etc. - might have been done with snap-head rivets and any locos built for the SER and SECR by the trade might also have visible rivets. Of course, it's easy enough to sand off rivets if they are not needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First off, I want an F-class, even if I have to sell a grandchild to get it. I would also consider a B and an F1, but not an A because the As had been rusticated by my modelling period. Can't remember if the B1s are in period for me.

 

I think I've seen a really good cab-photo for an F somewhere in my various books. I will scan and post if I can find it.

 

If a Stirling steam-reverser pump was produced as a separate print of good quality, then I'd probably buy a couple of those to to replace duff castings on some latent kits.

 

Finally, be very careful of the rivets. A lot of Ashford-built locos before 1900 had flush-head rivets which disappeared beneath paint. The rebuilds - F1, B1 etc. - might have been done with snap-head rivets and any locos built for the SER and SECR by the trade might also have visible rivets. Of course, it's easy enough to sand off rivets if they are not needed.

 

I'll do a steam reverser if I can find a good drawing of one, had no luck so far though so it might have to be a bit more generic. As for rivets, I've modelled them for completeness but they can be turned off easily so I can produce either variant. The rivets may be slightly wrong anyway as the best photos I have are of the flush-head ones!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First off, I want an F-class, even if I have to sell a grandchild to get it.

 

 

Don't think you get much for grandchildren these days. We used to take our, now teenage, ones to Lanark Market of a Monday, but the general consensus there was that we would need to pay someone to take then off our hands! ;-(

 

Jim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right, time to reveal the grand plan for the F class! Not that it's been secret, I've only just finished making it up. Nor is it particularly grand...

 

Anyway, these models are not intended to be the last word in detail, so there will be a few compromises to either make construction easier or to keep cost down. I am limited by the accuracy of the drawings I have as well, so the model will be designed to be a 'layout loco' rather than a showcase queen. Of course, the builder can add details to their own satisfaction to make it as accurate as they like.

 

Stage 1 is to finish the CAD model for a 3D printed version that utilises additional details such as separate handrails, buffers, boiler tube etc, similar to my existing 'Maunsell-ish' diesel shunter model. This will serve as a test bed to make sure I have all the dimensions and the running qualities down, and will be available for people who want a quick, simple build. I am also likely to test some coatings at this point to see if the surfaces can be made smooth.

 

Stage 2 will hopefully do away with some of the model parts in favour of laser-cut or scratchbuilt parts, such as the footplate and splasher sides, which should allow a better surface finish, plus a load of 3D printed bits, such as the smokebox, cab etc.. This will be more 'scratch-aid' style and will be harder to build. Stage 2 may or may not happen depending on the results from stage 1, or whether the additional manufacturing bits are feasible. 

 

Then repeat for the F1 (and B1 tender).

 

Materials-wise, the chassis will almost certainly be WS&F, or alternative vendors equivalents, as it needs the strength. The body will probably be WS&F for stage 1 and FUD for stage 2, with laser cut or scratchbuilt parts in wood. 

 

Finally, I am developing this for myself, not as a commercial exercise (it is a hobby, after all), so it probably won't be perfect - but any feedback is welcome as my errors are usually accidental... As such, I don't want to give any dates as to when the models will be made available, but it should be easy enough to gauge progress from this thread.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First, Tom, I must say that this is a great project, and I think we all appreciate the effort going in to it and the fact that you are prepared to make something that you are producing for your layout available to others.

 

On that basis, I am sure we will be happy to have the chance to use whatever you decide to produce.  Personally I won't want to go with a loco and tender body in WSF, but would certainly go for one in FUD (WSF is fine for frames, I think).  I have a number of FUD pieces now and I think that a good finish can be achieved without too much difficulty of damage to detail.  I also think that the strength of 3D print is in not trying to reproduce every component, so 'mixed media' is the way to go. For these reasons, I hope you succeed with Phase 2, as this makes more sense from my point of view, but I see the value of Phase 1 as proof of concept. 

 

An F1 next would be fantastic news.

 

Good luck.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agreed with Edwardian - this is looking like an exciting project, well carried out. I think multi-media is probably the way to go, long term. If I can be of any help with laser-cutting (either doing or advice on doing), please feel free to PM me. I've just placed an order for several sheets of 1mm MDF, as well as having card of various thicknesses available.

 

I've made a running plate for other engines out of 3mm MDF and it seems to work OK, giving a much better flat finish than Shapeways materials. I've not yet experimented with the 1mm stuff yet though, but I can give things a try and let you know. Might a tab-and-slot MDF chassis (of the style of etched kits) be possible?

 

I'd certainly be interested in one of the Stage 2 models if it gets that far - I'm currently rather short of SE&CR locos that are early enough for my layout!

Edited by Skinnylinny
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is indeed a righteous project and very welcome. For myself, I'm wondering whether a WSF print sans details, to be rubbed down, beats a FUD print. Will the smokebox wing-plate be a separate detail? That's a bit that's hard to do well in WSF.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is indeed a righteous project and very welcome. For myself, I'm wondering whether a WSF print sans details, to be rubbed down, beats a FUD print. Will the smokebox wing-plate be a separate detail? That's a bit that's hard to do well in WSF.

 

Better to 'roll your own' boiler and have FUD boiler mountings.

 

WSF is not worth the effort.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agreed with Edwardian - this is looking like an exciting project, well carried out. I think multi-media is probably the way to go, long term. If I can be of any help with laser-cutting (either doing or advice on doing), please feel free to PM me. I've just placed an order for several sheets of 1mm MDF, as well as having card of various thicknesses available.

 

I've made a running plate for other engines out of 3mm MDF and it seems to work OK, giving a much better flat finish than Shapeways materials. I've not yet experimented with the 1mm stuff yet though, but I can give things a try and let you know. Might a tab-and-slot MDF chassis (of the style of etched kits) be possible?

 

I'd certainly be interested in one of the Stage 2 models if it gets that far - I'm currently rather short of SE&CR locos that are early enough for my layout!

 

Thanks, I was planning to ask for help at some point, so I'll drop you a PM in due course - much appreciated! I want to finish the printed version first though as a test, then it should be a case of replicating those parts, which I think will be easier than doing it from scratch. Tab and slot would be nice, as long as the edges can be hidden so it doesn't get that brick-like effect. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can see the benefit of mixed-media, but I will be seriously interested to compare the cost with pure prints as that has now become the permanent bottom-line for me. WSF, I am learning, is somewhat too variable to be trusted. It can arrive with very little prep needed, or with much prep needed.

 

Hopefully the new, cheaper and smoother, source of prints will provide some interest.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can see the benefit of mixed-media, but I will be seriously interested to compare the cost with pure prints as that has now become the permanent bottom-line for me. WSF, I am learning, is somewhat too variable to be trusted. It can arrive with very little prep needed, or with much prep needed.

 

Hopefully the new, cheaper and smoother, source of prints will provide some interest.

 

My initial (but very vague) estimates put the cost at about the same - you need to buy the extra bits of course, but the 3D printed part is much smaller (minus footplate, boiler etc.) so should make up the difference. Hopefully...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.