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TSD's Workbench - SECR and Industrial modelling


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7 hours ago, TurboSnail said:

Had a bit of a scare this morning when I agreed to the new forum rules and noticed the fourth commandment: "Thou shalt not promote, offer for sale or link to any commercial entity you are involved with". A quick message to Andy Y and we've got the all clear, so I can continue to sell models to those that want them, although I still wouldn't call myself a business as such...

 

Anyway, I'm trying to keep this thread more about the modelling than something as vulgar as advertising and selling, so please feel free to chastise me if I occasionally regress to being a salesman!

Hi TS,

 

I think there is a slight difference between you making a bit of beer money here and there and the kind of psychopathic-greedy-graspers the likes of which make up the panel of  "Dragons Den".

 

But, ha-ha, what do I know !!!!

 

Gibbo.

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22 minutes ago, TurboSnail said:

Having said I'm trying not to be a salesman, I can't resist showing off the first F1x print. It's come out so well! The industrial Fox Walker arrived at the same time, more on that later.

 

image.png.0ec62e4ce9c55ac1223c71a5ff607f67.png

 

Looking very good.

 

Personally I think the short smokebox without the snaphead rivets looks even better, but, then, for a pre-Great War version I think that is the only option.

 

This will be my first loco kit, and, I hope, a gentle introduction ..... 

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47 minutes ago, Edwardian said:

 

Looking very good.

 

Personally I think the short smokebox without the snaphead rivets looks even better, but, then, for a pre-Great War version I think that is the only option.

 

This will be my first loco kit, and, I hope, a gentle introduction ..... 

 

This one is for another customer who wanted a later SR/early BR version, all the F1s looked like this by the 1940s. 

 

As for it being a gentle introduction, we shall see! Personally I don't think it's difficult, but I suppose I know how it's supposed to work. There is fiddling and fettling to do, as with any plastic, brass or whitemetal kit, but to a lesser extent than those materials - the tricky alignment work is also done for you. The material is less robust though, I could go through pros and cons all night...

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1 hour ago, Guy Rixon said:

The lining looks very good. What paper did you use? 

 

Whatever was in the library printer at the time! Knowing my Uni, it's probably cheap stuff. It was a laser printer though, that might make a difference. And I made sure all the settings were set to maximum quality before printing.

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1 hour ago, Guy Rixon said:

Probably 70g paper then. Possibly, the technique works better with light-weight paper. 

 

I think it also helps that the livery is relatively simple and only 2 colours. It's much easier to match the black well than it is to get the specific shade of SECR green correct, for example. I would have printed it onto white waterslide transfer paper if I had some, or if I had my own printer. The Uni technicians might object to me gumming up a network printer!

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I've been reading the pugbashes thread, a very dangerous thing to do. I've now decided that I need to do something with all the donor bits I've used for various 3D printing projects. This might not happen immediately, or even soon, but here's what I've got: the chassis is a Hornby 0-4-0 with a new motor, 1:60 gears and a flywheel. The bodies are a Jinty, Electrotren, 2 Railroad 0-4-0s and the old Neilson 2-2-2t body. I also have a test F class tender that could be cut down to a four-wheel tender. I have 15 and 20mm tubes for boilers.

 

Not sure where to go in terms of inspiration. I quite like the Furness 0-4-0 tender loco, but I'm open to anything really. Any suggestions from the floor?

 

IMG_20190210_165258.jpg.03c9b4b0911f50b30f8630f111c6b3db.jpg

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1 hour ago, Compound2632 said:

The 20 mm diameter tube would be a bit gross for a small engine, unless you thought of doing a fireless one?

 

That's what I thought, but then I also thought that 15mm might be a bit too small... I don't want to buy anything else for this project, so it would have to be one of the two, or hacking up one of the loco bodies. Or find another common household item that could substitute.

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10 minutes ago, TurboSnail said:

 

That's what I thought, but then I also thought that 15mm might be a bit too small... I don't want to buy anything else for this project, so it would have to be one of the two, or hacking up one of the loco bodies. Or find another common household item that could substitute.

Hi TS,

 

If you use the 15mm tube you can increase it's diameter by splitting another piece of tube and sliding it over the original piece, the increase in diameter being twice wall thickness. To make the diameter greater still you can sandwich a wrapping of thin plasticard (.010") , twice wall thickness plus twice plasticard thickness, more plasticard greater still. The elasticity of the tube will keep it all together while the glue cures, although a bit of tape will make sure, and it may then be treated as a thick tube.

 

Its a tricky job but it does work.

 

Gibbo.

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1 hour ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi TS,

 

If you use the 15mm tube you can increase it's diameter by splitting another piece of tube and sliding it over the original piece, the increase in diameter being twice wall thickness. To make the diameter greater still you can sandwich a wrapping of thin plasticard (.010") , twice wall thickness plus twice plasticard thickness, more plasticard greater still. The elasticity of the tube will keep it all together while the glue cures, although a bit of tape will make sure, and it may then be treated as a thick tube.

 

Its a tricky job but it does work.

 

Gibbo.

 

With the plasticard strapped down with tape. plunge in a mug of just off boiling water for a few minutes. Then the plasticard will hold its shape.

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The fruits of last night's labour - the SECR Manning Wardle 313 is starting to take shape, the motor even fits, which was what I was most worried about. I also finished painting the Neilson 2-2-2T and adding the final few details, just waiting for nameplates and a driver now. Then maybe I can finally reclaim some bench space for something else!

 

image.png.e74eb2dd46b3cafc3dd705615b7a8031.png

 

image.png.300de4f826132336c580b5cdac6969b9.png

 

Also, I'm now up to 500 posts! :dancing:

Edited by TurboSnail
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CSB = Continuous Spring Beams. Guitar-wire springs are run the length of the chassis, one on each side, and bearing on all the axles. There's a pivot point, typically, on each side of each wheel, with some pivots serving a wheel on either side. This allows all the wheels to be sprung and the weight on each axle can be set by moving the pivot points. The behaviour of the CSBs is predictable enough that there exist spreadsheets to say where to put the pivots for a given wheel arrangement and centre of balance. The balance of the loco can be designed in when building the chassis; c.f. individual springs on each wheels where the balance usually has to be got by adjustment (profanity-limited) after building.

 

Actually, on second reading, the Belgian 0-6-oops-0 is just an 0-8-0 for CSB purposes and not that interesting. 

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13 hours ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Guy,

 

Forgive my ignorance, what is CSB ?

 

Gibbo.

It's something used by some "finescale" modellers in building model locomotives and is supposedly the "cutting edge of technology", although it makes the locomotive run/stay on the track, no better than one that uses simple compensation. It's the next big argument to kick off in the P4 world and will make the gauge wars look like a teddy bears picnic, or so I am told... :rolleyes:

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42 minutes ago, Ruston said:

It's something used by some "finescale" modellers in building model locomotives and is supposedly the "cutting edge of technology", although it makes the locomotive run/stay on the track, no better than one that uses simple compensation. It's the next big argument to kick off in the P4 world and will make the gauge wars look like a teddy bears picnic, or so I am told... :rolleyes:

 

You were mis-told...

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