Baseboard levelling

[PGC]

I have to level a dip in a baseboard of 3mm or so over 300mm (just don't ask, long, long story!). If necessary I will buy a 20 or 25Kg bag of self levelling compound from B&Q, Wickees etc. but I would be wasting about 90% of it.

 

Can anyone suggest a supplier of self levelling latex compound in small quantities, for example 1 Kg bags. I've tried Google but can't find small quantities. Thanks in advance.

 

Phil

[Ray H]

Have you tried bracing the baseboard area with the dip using a slightly "curved" piece of timber - you know the type, it is as straight as a donkey's hind leg (and no donkeys were hurt in making that statement).

 

You can use the "bend" in one to counteract the bend in the other when screwing the two together. The hardest task is often to screw the final screw in place.

[doilum]

I have to level a dip in a baseboard of 3mm or so over 300mm (just don't ask, long, long story!). If necessary I will buy a 20 or 25Kg bag of self levelling compound from B&Q, Wickees etc. but I would be wasting about 90% of it.

Can anyone suggest a supplier of self levelling latex compound in small quantities, for example 1 Kg bags. I've tried Google but can't find small quantities. Thanks in advance.

Phil

Unless you are laying the throat to Kings Cross, does it matter? Loose pin the track and pack with lengths of cornflakes packet. Check your work with a long spirit level. Remember, a hump is worse than a dip.

[DCB]

I have to level a dip in a baseboard of 3mm or so over 300mm (just don't ask, long, long story!). If necessary I will buy a 20 or 25Kg bag of self levelling compound from B&Q, Wickees etc. but I would be wasting about 90% of it.

 

Can anyone suggest a supplier of self levelling latex compound in small quantities, for example 1 Kg bags. I've tried Google but can't find small quantities. Thanks in advance.

 

Phil

I think the levelling compound will probably make the baseboard warp even more.

 

I have similar issues  and have adopted.   

 

Method 1  Stick a longitudinal under the affected dip,  Cut a piece of baseboard framing material precisely to length with screw holes pre drilled at 45 degrees approx ready to screw in place.  Jack it in to place with a car jack and when the track is level screw it firmly to the rest of the baseboard framing.

 

Method 2 (Thornton Junction)  shove more and more ballast under the track.  I actually use long 1mm ish kebab sticks to slip under the sleepers and make good with ballast (one end for superelevation) but 3mm would need.

 

Method 3  Put strips of wood under the affected track. Old ply which has started de laminating is ideal. Cut it into 40mm ish strips the width of the ballast shoulders. Peel off layers, chamfer what's left with a sanding block (or disc) to suit baseboard profile while retaining a flat level top for the track.. Laminate flooring is good but doesn't de laminate like old ply so needs more filing.

 

I try not to use cardboard as I find it tends to shrink unless absolutely soaked with PVA so I don't use it.

 

Screw Car jacks are really handy, the scissors type. They don't creep down like hydraulics.  We jack the shed up every few years and renew the packing under the field end to level the floor and baseboard as it needs to be level within less than 1% or we get train length / haulage issues.   

Edited June 21, 2018 by DavidCBroad

[doilum]

If card might shrink, blow the budget on a sheet of 20 thou plastikard.

[sharris]

Couldn't you just put a 1 in 100 gradient post next to the track?

 

Or a bit less flippantly, if it's otherwise stable, could you pad out the dip with a bit of balsa, laminating 1/32" strips increasing up to 1/8" at the deepest end (I.e. Stepping through 1/32, 1/16, 3/32, 1/8 from the shallow to deep end) and sanding it level?

Edited June 21, 2018 by sharris

[MartynJPearson]

Or you could consider it prototypical...