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HELJAN UNVEILS ‘OO’ GAUGE 25/3 AND ‘ETHEL’ FOR 2019


Andy Y
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My initial thought is that there is a lot of rolling resistance, it definitely needs adjustment in order for my kettles to manage it with a 10 coach train. 

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Edited by PeterH
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9 hours ago, stovepipe said:

 

I was referring to this, posted a day or so before your comment in the same vein.

 

 

Odd not one mention of how good or bad the class 25 is or isn't. I did love him reading the A2/2 review and saying back in the dark ages we had these features, true but where was his 2005 model of a class A2/2 to run on his Hornby track.

 

Suppose it takes all sorts.

 

Gotta snip the wires going to those lights, far too bright and I doubt the driver would have them switched on in day light. As for the red ones, should only be one if it was going light engine, when will manufacturers get that right.

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2 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Gotta snip the wires going to those lights, far too bright and I doubt the driver would have them switched on in day light. As for the red ones, should only be one if it was going light engine, when will manufacturers get that right.

No need for snipping wires, a bit of insulating tape over the surface mounted diodes which illuminate the cabs and similarly over one of the tail lamp holes on the front of the loco. 

 

I am unaware of any ready to run Class 24 or 25 with lighting fitted that does not have both tail lamps lit.

 

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4 hours ago, 96701 said:

No need for snipping wires, a bit of insulating tape over the surface mounted diodes which illuminate the cabs and similarly over one of the tail lamp holes on the front of the loco. 

 

I am unaware of any ready to run Class 24 or 25 with lighting fitted that does not have both tail lamps lit.

 

Hi Phil

 

My normal method is to find where the pick up wires are on the PCB and unsolder them, unsolder the wires to the motor (at the motor end) and then solder pick up wires directly to the motor. Easily reversible when the model moves on to a new home.

 

As for any illuminated model diesel only having one red tail lamp, I don't think any model is so fitted. Back in the bad old days the real things had a switch for both lights and only one was required when running light engine. Most of the time the secondman would be woken up and told to bung a tail lamp on one the lamp irons because that is what the signalman would be looking for. In the poor video above seeing the red lights (at 36 seconds) looks as daft as the tension lock couplings I use.

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It's one of those self-perpetuating things - it seems no manufacturer wants to go down the single tail light route for pre-late 80s BR D&E models even though it is prototypically correct. It's no real biggie to fix, but I am amazed that even SLW feel they need to do this based on expectation and they are supposed to be the ones that don't compromise.

 

One of my HJ class 25s as bought has non-functioning tail lights at one end which is I suppose technically a fault but does in practice make it more prototypical than as per design spec.

Edited by andyman7
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On 02/05/2021 at 13:00, andyman7 said:

 It's no real biggie to fix, but I am amazed that even SLW feel they need to do this based on expectation and they are supposed to be the ones that don't compromise.

 

The SLW instruction leaflet for the Class 24 says the compromise was made to avoid a flood of calls from people saying their tail lights don't work.

 

I think having only one light illuminated would also be a compromise though, as from the early 1980s the rules on BR were changed to require both loco tail lamps to be it - presumably affecting the Class 24/25s. I suppose it would be safe enough to produce models in BR Green or Pre-TOPS Blue with only one tail light, but on the whole I think it's probably better to have the components installed and let the modeller decide.

Edited by Pillar
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52 minutes ago, Pillar said:

 

The SLW instruction leaflet for the Class 24 says the compromise was made to avoid a flood of calls from people saying their tail lights don't work.

 

I think having only one light illuminated would also be a compromise though, as from the early 1980s the rules on BR were changed to require both loco tail lamps to be it - presumably affecting the Class 24/25s. I suppose it would be safe enough to produce models in BR Green or Pre-TOPS Blue with only one tail light, but on the whole I think it's probably better to have the components installed and let the modeller decide.

 

Not really the 24s as they were gone by then.

Roy

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1 hour ago, Pillar said:

 

The SLW instruction leaflet for the Class 24 says the compromise was made to avoid a flood of calls from people saying their tail lights don't work.

 

I think having only one light illuminated would also be a compromise though, as from the early 1980s the rules on BR were changed to require both loco tail lamps to be it - presumably affecting the Class 24/25s. I suppose it would be safe enough to produce models in BR Green or Pre-TOPS Blue with only one tail light, but on the whole I think it's probably better to have the components installed and let the modeller decide.

Class 24s and 25s were not capable of having both tail lights illuminated. They were operated by a toggle switch - centre off, l/h for left hand light and r/h for right hand light lit. The rule book changed in the later 1980s and all except for the RTC 24 and Tamworth Castle were gone by then, I expect their tail light requirements were covered by special instructions. 

If SLW can print in the manual an explanation, surely it could be to explain why only one lamp at a time illuminates?

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1 hour ago, Jenny Emily said:

I had a go at adding independently switchable cab lights to my 25s using DCCconcepts nano LEDs. Quite a simple yet effective job to fix this model. 
 

 

@Jenny Emily do you need to disclose you're employed by DCConcepts now when posting such video content?

 

I'm not knocking the product, but it needs to be clear when you are sharing that this isn't just you developing your DCC interest.

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7 hours ago, woodenhead said:

@Jenny Emily do you need to disclose you're employed by DCConcepts now when posting such video content?

 

I'm not knocking the product, but it needs to be clear when you are sharing that this isn't just you developing your DCC interest.

No as my own Youtube channel is independent of my work at DCCconcepts. I just happened to use their products because I sit all day in a room full of the stuff. 
 

 

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15 minutes ago, Jenny Emily said:

No as my own Youtube channel is independent of my work at DCCconcepts. I just happened to use their products because I sit all day in a room full of the stuff. 
 

 

I think that's a hard one to prove Jenny, your role is to present content on using DCConcepts products and here you are doing just that.

 

When showing this on your channel, how is it presented, as there are clear rules if you are being paid or in some way rewarded for talking up a product.

 

I do watch your channel from time to time, it's good viewing, it's entertaining and you're a good presenter.

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The guidelines for sponsorship / influencing are getting more and more onerous for those that post on social media (including YouTube), to the point where it is becoming hard not to break the rules.

 

For example, the fact that a video may be independent of paid work does not remove the obligation to declare a vested interest if you use something from the company.  The guidelines include the statement "Disclosure should occur when there’s a financial, employment, personal, or family relationship with a brand."

 

Further, if you feature a product in one video that has been previously been sponsored in another, that must be declared also.

 

Given most of Jenny's videos were sponsored by Train-O-Matic I don't see an issue with the latter. The former may be more of an issue, but I am sure Jenny knows the situation well.

 

Of course, YouTube is a global platform, and complying everywhere that a video may be seen is a nightmare...

 

Roy

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3 hours ago, Jenny Emily said:

No as my own Youtube channel is independent of my work at DCCconcepts. I just happened to use their products because I sit all day in a room full of the stuff. 
 

 

Well I for one am grateful for you putting out a vid 

I'll be having a go at making the cab lights switchable .

So thanks :)

 

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Is anyone else having difficulty removing the body retaining screws on these models? 3 came out pretty easily, the last one will not budge. I have tried wd40, I have tried a few screw drivers but i am just destroying the top of the screw it is stuck that tightly!:mad_mini:

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Got to have a quick look at these today in Alton models. First day out for a year and a half! Have to admit they look a LOT better in the flesh than the pictures portray.  The Subtle curve on the Cab front is definitely there.  Looked very nice to me but I'm far from an expert on the class as I was only 13 when they were all withdrawn. 

 

Cheers Trailrage

 

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18 hours ago, TRAILRAGE said:

Got to have a quick look at these today in Alton models. First day out for a year and a half! Have to admit they look a LOT better in the flesh than the pictures portray.  The Subtle curve on the Cab front is definitely there.  Looked very nice to me but I'm far from an expert on the class as I was only 13 when they were all withdrawn. 

 

Cheers Trailrage

 

They look pretty good to me, and I used to work on them when doing my training at Kingmoor.

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3 hours ago, 96701 said:

They look pretty good to me, and I used to work on them when doing my training at Kingmoor.

Your giving your age away now but mind you it was 1999 I last drove one, leave it to the younger ones now lol

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On 05/05/2021 at 18:37, Roy Langridge said:

The guidelines for sponsorship / influencing are getting more and more onerous for those that post on social media (including YouTube), to the point where it is becoming hard not to break the rules.

 

For example, the fact that a video may be independent of paid work does not remove the obligation to declare a vested interest if you use something from the company.  The guidelines include the statement "Disclosure should occur when there’s a financial, employment, personal, or family relationship with a brand."

 

Being an amateur on Youtube isn't much better, I put up dozens of videos of various days out, models etc and no one watches them.

Maybe when i’m dead an archaeologist will mine Youtube and find my efforts of the long lost past.

 

 

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1 hour ago, adb968008 said:

Being an amateur on Youtube isn't much better, I put up dozens of videos of various days out, models etc and no one watches them.

Maybe when i’m dead an archaeologist will mine Youtube and find my efforts of the long lost past.

 

 

 

Whats your channel adb?

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I have almost finished my class 25. I think a tad more weathering will do it.

I think Heljan have dropped the ball a bit on these with badly fitting headcode components badly fitting cab windows and overly chunky windows wipers. I ended up making my own wipers and cutting the windows to fit individually.  My Heljan class 33s have some nice flush windows and finely molded wipers which makes me wonder why the class 25 didn't have these. I guess it comes down to production costs. Otherwise a pretty good little model.

Cheers Peter.

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23 hours ago, P.C.M said:

I have almost finished my class 25. I think a tad more weathering will do it.

I think Heljan have dropped the ball a bit on these with badly fitting headcode components badly fitting cab windows and overly chunky windows wipers. I ended up making my own wipers and cutting the windows to fit individually.  My Heljan class 33s have some nice flush windows and finely molded wipers which makes me wonder why the class 25 didn't have these. I guess it comes down to production costs. Otherwise a pretty good little model.

Cheers Peter.

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I may do my 25's windows the same. I bottled it, trying to remove them. Did they come out easily?

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4 hours ago, 97406 said:

I may do my 25's windows the same. I bottled it, trying to remove them. Did they come out easily?

One end came out fairly easy the other end took some doing. Good luck.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Hello,

 

Just got round to testing out my BR Blue LMR version 25093. Upon going to fit some couplings I noticed these circular stubs underneath the buffers. Any idea what this is supposed to be?  
 

As it’s fouling any coupling on either end... or does it pull off- apologies if this has been mentioned before.

 

cheers

 

Peter

 

 

 

 

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