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HELJAN UNVEILS ‘OO’ GAUGE 25/3 AND ‘ETHEL’ FOR 2019


Andy Y
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  • RMweb Gold
12 hours ago, 61661 said:

Really sorry to see that you got one of the duff weathered locos. Returning it is the correct thing to do so that we can get the affected examples out of circulation ASAP. 

 

, or flog 'em off cheap to those of us with a IPA/Dettol/Dot 4 bath of death?

Of course, that's assuming you'd sell one to a Blade?!!

 

Mike.

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12 hours ago, Patriot87003 said:

There’s a rat in my kitchen ....

84583CE6-BE53-478B-AB44-3737C3B72644.jpeg.a059e4d85bd756054257fbe4718aca3f.jpeg

 

... and now it’s on my layout!

8530C806-7602-457B-914E-6F215E6EF476.jpeg.69144e23c02598e27ec1e06d0fed7714.jpeg

 

An action shot below showing the domino marker lights (my layout is currently DC)

7E1EE02B-D1D5-426B-A098-A7644B82C058.jpeg.3d45f7cf8b4b906070d729ec763ad531.jpeg

 

Within the box are the accessory bags with mini ploughs, plates, tension lock couplings and pipes etc.

9AB4A95B-521B-4965-B6EC-65009A428651.jpeg.96a8fa138c28762f9b06d253db2a2d20.jpeg

 

My WCML layout is from around mid 1980’s to early 2000’s and during my first trip along the WCML during 1986, I can remember seeing a Class 25 at Stafford. Very pleased with the purchase so far ... very smooth runner.

Lovely looking layout Sir 

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12 hours ago, Stevelewis said:

The  most  recent SLW  24  I  bought  was  FEB 21  fully fitted  with  sound  on  board  total  cost  inc   shipping  was  £305,  it  must  be  considered  though  that  when  the SLW 25s  are released  the  price will most likely be higher, very nice people to  deal with though.  I cannot  answer  your  query  though  but   there  would  possibly  not  much  in  it!

For £305 I'm guessing you didn't get the super cap option? I have 2 SLW 24's that have cost me £325 ea + delivery , I also have one that I bought second hand that had been seriously mistreated by it's previous owner , fortunately after a lovely chat with Phil all the parts on the model that were missing/damaged were in the post to me , also there will be no difference in price with the 25's when they are released

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Well an unsettled night, probably as an after effect of the Covid jab meant an early morning identity change. Ready for some dirt. I'm pleased with it as a model.

 

DSC01521 (2).JPG

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3 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

, or flog 'em off cheap to those of us with a IPA/Dettol/Dot 4 bath of death?

Of course, that's assuming you'd sell one to a Blade?!!

 

Mike.

No chance. If you're a Bl**e then you can only have a duff one! ;-)

 

Seriously though, we are waiting to see how many are actually returned before making a decision on what to do with them. If it's just a few then they might be sold off as seconds at a show (on the assumption that shows will start again at some point), but swapping them for new bodies is also an option. 

 

UTO! 

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  • RMweb Gold

D7667 has just started its running in session on the DC rolling road, and it looks fabulous. Just got to fix the "cab lighting" and cover over a tail lamp which I will do when I fit the ESU Lokpilot decoder that I have for it.

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4 hours ago, AY Mod said:

 

That was done to death several pages ago, why restart it? Did you read those parts or not? 

 

No, is the answer. I click on the activity tab and skim through that. If I'm going to post I look back through a few pages on the thread first. There are far too many posts on the forum to read everything!

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10 minutes ago, 96701 said:

D7667 has just started its running in session on the DC rolling road, and it looks fabulous. Just got to fix the "cab lighting" and cover over a tail lamp which I will do when I fit the ESU Lokpilot decoder that I have for it.

A little black paint did the trick with mine. Prepare for disco lights if you run it before the (acrylic) paint’s dried though! :D

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17 minutes ago, maico said:

 

No, is the answer. I click on the activity tab and skim through that. If I'm going to post I look back through a few pages on the thread first. There are far too many posts on the forum to read everything!

There is a search function. One suggestion that will no doubt get a you have to be kidding from the moderators would be to split such threads up into sections like the announcement (which would be locked now), prototype details, pre production (again locked now), the released model and DCC

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39 minutes ago, 61661 said:

No chance. If you're a Bl**e then you can only have a duff one! ;-)

 

Seriously though, we are waiting to see how many are actually returned before making a decision on what to do with them. If it's just a few then they might be sold off as seconds at a show (on the assumption that shows will start again at some point), but swapping them for new bodies is also an option. 

 

UTO! 

I’d be up for a duff rat! That sounds a bit rude! There’s nothing a respray won’t sort, though!

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5 minutes ago, Butler Henderson said:

There is a search function. One suggestion that will no doubt get a you have to be kidding from the moderators would be to split such threads up into sections like the announcement (which would be locked now), prototype details, pre production (again locked now), the released model and DCC

i've always wanted one thread for gushing - mine will be x/my wallet hurts/its been an open goal (because i wanted one)/it looks fine to me there are bigger problems in the world (but i'm here reading anyway)/will it have opening doors etc. and then one to talk about the model, including any flaws for those inclined to fix them.

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26 minutes ago, maico said:

No, is the answer.

 

Not a surprising answer but it's annoying when something that's already been well-covered gets brought up again by someone who's late to the party and not paying attention at the back. It shows a lack of respect for anyone who's previously posted about it as you'll think your post is more important than taking the time to read the contributions of others.

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  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, 61661 said:

No chance. If you're a Bl**e then you can only have a duff one! ;-)

 

Seriously though, we are waiting to see how many are actually returned before making a decision on what to do with them. If it's just a few then they might be sold off as seconds at a show (on the assumption that shows will start again at some point), but swapping them for new bodies is also an option. 

 

UTO! 

Maybe Sell the chassis..?

 

It allows some of us to Strip the motors and gears, for those who want unpowered Ethels.

 

 

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IMG_0315.jpg.f6d158600dffa3f44c8f378effd2167d.jpg

 

Game on for seeing how cheaply I can get a comparable twin speaker V5 into this. Overall the impression formed from photos up until now has not been altered. That is that it is a competent model, but its not without its flaws.

 

Starting with the positives, overall it looks like a Rat. The overall shape is decent and the chassis is a much needed tonic to the bad taste left since the 1970s with Hornbys model and 20 odd years with the old Bachmann model.

 

Running, out of the box and not run in it started to crawl consistently with a current draw of just 70mA and movement was barely discernible. Running in at a medium pace, it started off with a draw of 200mA, which after 10 minutes or so had fallen to 150mA as it bedded in. Very good indeed. I measured a peak draw of 450mA when flooring it with a load where it reached a slightly excessive speed but I wouldn't say its too much. Its a far cry from when I had Tubby Duffs and was used to seeing upwards of 1.5A!!! Stall current came in at just under 700mA. Its safe to say I like the underpinnings of this model, quite a lot.

 

IMG_0314.jpg.7d99e1c382f0d6a7dd4e92e5cf606ebf.jpg

 

All up weight is a bit low. The old Bachmann Rats are 460g, and the 24/1 comes in at 417g. But these things weren't power monsters, even at 336g it'll manage more than a prototypical loading, so no problems there. I may add a little when I go through the DCC install, there is certainly plenty of room for more ballast.

 

The glazing of my example, unlike that of a few photos shown thus far was all pushed fully home, as were the headcodes. I stand by my comment stating I think the glazing edges that of Bachmanns 24/1. The Heljan is better glazed, with the added caveat that it is fitted properly, as some photos do show its not always fitted flush.

 

On to the bits I have concern with.

The windscreen surrounds especially at the top edge are tiny, I think this is where they look a bit odd. What I might try is some N Gauge first class yellow lining transfers to beef them up, either that or strip the glazing and get the bow pen out.

 

The headcode box front sits back behind the gutter. People have said that 0.1mm makes next to no difference, this is one of those instances where a fraction of a mm does make a difference. Shimming with plasticard or a bespoke etch will fix it. I also have questions over the angle of the wings on either side. I don't think they're quite angled enough.

 

That grille. Yes, its etched. Yes, there is actually deeper detail behind it too, but the etching is too coarse to effectively make use of the detail back there, which is a shame. Again, an opening for an aftermarket etch and its a pretty easy fix.

 

The roof grille, while tidily etched, doesn't quite convey the bulk of the real thing. One for the already available extreme etchings multi layered fan grille.

 

The cab door is what it is. Its wrong, plain and simple. I can't see any other way to correct it than to cut away the door and replace it. Perhaps one day an etched detailing pack can be put together covering the door, headcode and grille.

 

On 10/03/2021 at 20:18, blueeighties said:

I don't. Heljan never specified working internal cab lighting. Sounds as though the rear cover sealing any extraneous light from the headcode marker led board has either come adrift or is missing. Quite unprofessional for a retailer to go on a rant such as that, same with last weeks photos. If a new release loco lands on my bench and has any issues during initial inspection, I'll take it up with the supplier.

 

Yes, they did.

 

And the wording of the supplied instruction sheet implies that they are independent of the marker lights. The reality of the lighting is that the headcode lights and cab lights are one and the same and a bit of a fudge. I'd be inclined to seal the back of the headcode panel and dull the LED to something a bit less effulgent, and if I wanted to reinstate true cab lighting (for DCC) to then use a spare aux on the decoder to provide cab lighting on its own function. The V5 has plenty of capacity to do this.

 

IMG_0316.jpg.2325d5ee3b3a1106a1762550d931db92.jpg

 

As for my little project, the challenge is to DCC sound fit to a comparable spec to the SLW model and do so as cheaply as I can find possible. The SLW DCC sound is a £110 option.

 

Loco- sourced. £153 no postage cost as currently offered postage free from RoS.

Sound project - £110.50 so far*.

Loksound V5 - sourced £105 (less 10% club discount, I have paid £94.50, no postage), needs blowing but I have a friend and a lokprogrammer, *now it depends on how much a good soundfile will cost.

Speakers - starting with the R&R route of two 25x25x7 megabass, currently on sale for £7 a pop. £14 plus a few quid postage.

Edited by Zunnan
Correcting postage info
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19 hours ago, blueeighties said:

I don't. Heljan never specified working internal cab lighting. Sounds as though the rear cover sealing any extraneous light from the headcode marker led board has either come adrift or is missing. Quite unprofessional for a retailer to go on a rant such as that, same with last weeks photos. If a new release loco lands on my bench and has any issues during initial inspection, I'll take it up with the supplier.

You must be of a sensitive disposition if you think thats a "rant", especially when it turns out he is right about the cab lights and sadly you are mistaken.

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  • RMweb Gold

A bit of black insulating tape on the back of the headcodes and over one of the tail lights at each end may well have sorted the lighting issues, decoder fitted and am one happy bunny.

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The impression I get so far is that it's better to wait until both the SLW  and Bachmann models are available before I take the plunge. 

I don't understand why lights are so important for pre-marker light day's green engines. Nor do I understand why they're important when most layouts are simulating daylight conditions.

My recollection is that cab lights wouldn't be used while the locomotive was running and the direction lights were so dim (assuming they were working anyway) that they couldn't be seen. Wasn't this why marker lights were introduced?

If I do get around to replacing my green Bachmann the model will have all lights disabled. So much more prototypical for the sixties. 

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3 hours ago, Zunnan said:

IMG_0315.jpg.f6d158600dffa3f44c8f378effd2167d.jpg

 

Game on for seeing how cheaply I can get a comparable twin speaker V5 into this. Overall the impression formed from photos up until now has not been altered. That is that it is a competent model, but its not without its flaws.

 

Starting with the positives, overall it looks like a Rat. The overall shape is decent and the chassis is a much needed tonic to the bad taste left since the 1970s with Hornbys model and 20 odd years with the old Bachmann model.

 

Running, out of the box and not run in it started to crawl consistently with a current draw of just 70mA and movement was barely discernible. Running in at a medium pace, it started off with a draw of 200mA, which after 10 minutes or so had fallen to 150mA as it bedded in. Very good indeed. I measured a peak draw of 450mA when flooring it with a load where it reached a slightly excessive speed but I wouldn't say its too much. Its a far cry from when I had Tubby Duffs and was used to seeing upwards of 1.5A!!! Stall current came in at just under 700mA. Its safe to say I like the underpinnings of this model, quite a lot.

 

IMG_0314.jpg.7d99e1c382f0d6a7dd4e92e5cf606ebf.jpg

 

All up weight is a bit low. The old Bachmann Rats are 460g, and the 24/1 comes in at 417g. But these things weren't power monsters, even at 336g it'll manage more than a prototypical loading, so no problems there. I may add a little when I go through the DCC install, there is certainly plenty of room for more ballast.

 

The glazing of my example, unlike that of a few photos shown thus far was all pushed fully home, as were the headcodes. I stand by my comment stating I think the glazing edges that of Bachmanns 24/1. The Heljan is better glazed, with the added caveat that it is fitted properly, as some photos do show its not always fitted flush.

 

On to the bits I have concern with.

The windscreen surrounds especially at the top edge are tiny, I think this is where they look a bit odd. What I might try is some N Gauge first class yellow lining transfers to beef them up, either that or strip the glazing and get the bow pen out.

 

The headcode box front sits back behind the gutter. People have said that 0.1mm makes next to no difference, this is one of those instances where a fraction of a mm does make a difference. Shimming with plasticard or a bespoke etch will fix it. I also have questions over the angle of the wings on either side. I don't think they're quite angled enough.

 

That grille. Yes, its etched. Yes, there is actually deeper detail behind it too, but the etching is too coarse to effectively make use of the detail back there, which is a shame. Again, an opening for an aftermarket etch and its a pretty easy fix.

 

The roof grille, while tidily etched, doesn't quite convey the bulk of the real thing. One for the already available extreme etchings multi layered fan grille.

 

The cab door is what it is. Its wrong, plain and simple. I can't see any other way to correct it than to cut away the door and replace it. Perhaps one day an etched detailing pack can be put together covering the door, headcode and grille.

 

 

Yes, they did.

 

And the wording of the supplied instruction sheet implies that they are independent of the marker lights. The reality of the lighting is that the headcode lights and cab lights are one and the same and a bit of a fudge. I'd be inclined to seal the back of the headcode panel and dull the LED to something a bit less effulgent, and if I wanted to reinstate true cab lighting (for DCC) to then use a spare aux on the decoder to provide cab lighting on its own function. The V5 has plenty of capacity to do this.

 

IMG_0316.jpg.2325d5ee3b3a1106a1762550d931db92.jpg

 

As for my little project, the challenge is to DCC sound fit to a comparable spec to the SLW model and do so as cheaply as I can find possible. The SLW DCC sound is a £110 option.

 

Loco- sourced. £153 no postage cost as over £50 from RoS.

Sound project - £110.50 so far*.

Loksound V5 - sourced £105 (less 10% club discount, I have paid £94.50, no postage), needs blowing but I have a friend and a lokprogrammer, *now it depends on how much a good soundfile will cost.

Speakers - starting with the R&R route of two 25x25x7 megabass, currently on sale for £7 a pop. £14 plus a few quid postage.


I think the Jamie Goodman 25 v5 decoder is the cheapest decent option out there. It’s the way I’ve gone.

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11 hours ago, sulzer71 said:

For £305 I'm guessing you didn't get the super cap option? I have 2 SLW 24's that have cost me £325 ea + delivery , I also have one that I bought second hand that had been seriously mistreated by it's previous owner , fortunately after a lovely chat with Phil all the parts on the model that were missing/damaged were in the post to me , also there will be no difference in price with the 25's when they are released

To Be  quite  honest  although  we  have  purchased several SLW  24s,  we  have  never  seen  the  need  for  supercaps, ( should point  out  that  the  SLW 24s already  have  a  smaller  capacitor fitted as  standard (info  given to my  from SLW in  the  early days), I have  been digital  since 1997   long  before  the  concept  of  using  capacitors  to  overcome power collection problems (and  Bus  Bars  for  that  matter)  I have  built several  ;layouts  from  Z  thro to G in that  time and  providing  track is  kept  reasonably clean extremely  few  power collections have occured  Did  the  2nd  hand loco come  from  our  friends in Sheffield?

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What decoders are people fitting? 

 

A video has popped up on youtube showing the lights being wrong - ie tail lights on when going forwards and headcode lights on when going backwards. He says its the chip hes using?

 

Has anyone else had this issue?

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  • RMweb Gold
58 minutes ago, meatloaf said:

What decoders are people fitting? 

 

A video has popped up on youtube showing the lights being wrong - ie tail lights on when going forwards and headcode lights on when going backwards. He says its the chip hes using?

 

Has anyone else had this issue?

Unfortunately some folk on here have started rattling on about other manufacturer's Class 25s. If you are referring to Heljan 25s, mine is fitted with a Lokpilot and the directional lights work correctly. One thing that I have noticed is that Reverse on the handset puts the loco in the direction of No 1 end (where the fan is). All my other locos are Forward to o 1 end, so I will have to do a bit of tweaking.

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5 minutes ago, 96701 said:

Unfortunately some folk on here have started rattling on about other manufacturer's Class 25s. If you are referring to Heljan 25s, mine is fitted with a Lokpilot and the directional lights work correctly. One thing that I have noticed is that Reverse on the handset puts the loco in the direction of No 1 end (where the fan is). All my other locos are Forward to o 1 end, so I will have to do a bit of tweaking.

 

Exactly the same with my Lenz Silver+ fitted to Heljan's 25252.

An easy fix for me though as my ESU ECoS have an option to rectify.

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1 hour ago, 96701 said:

Unfortunately some folk on here have started rattling on about other manufacturer's Class 25s. If you are referring to Heljan 25s, mine is fitted with a Lokpilot and the directional lights work correctly. One thing that I have noticed is that Reverse on the handset puts the loco in the direction of No 1 end (where the fan is). All my other locos are Forward to o 1 end, so I will have to do a bit of tweaking.

 

It was deffo a Heljan tamworth castle. It was more than revered direction. Ive had that before and corrected it via CV29 but the lights operated correctly. In this video the lights and direction are wrong. Not sure how thats corrected.

 

Heljan Class 25 'Tamworth Castle' (OO Gauge) in Ice Cream Van Livery - YouTube

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold
16 minutes ago, meatloaf said:

 

It was deffo a Heljan tamworth castle. It was more than revered direction. Ive had that before and corrected it via CV29 but the lights operated correctly. In this video the lights and direction are wrong. Not sure how thats corrected.

 

Heljan Class 25 'Tamworth Castle' (OO Gauge) in Ice Cream Van Livery - YouTube

 

 

The person posting the videos states quite clearly that the fault is with the decoder which he has taken from another loco. He also states clearly that the fault is not the loco. 

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