Warren Branch

[Stubby47]

It might also be worth considering how to build the ground up around the track before adding the ballast.

 

Al on Ladmanlow cut cork sheet around each sleeper...

[AlfaZagato]

Being haphazard can save a project.   Sometimes trying to plow ahead on a single aspect can kill the whole project.

[Martin S-C]

1 hour ago, Stubby47 said:

Al on Ladmanlow cut cork sheet around each sleeper...

The idea of laying ash ballast (of which I will need a LOT), filling the spaces between the sleepers to a consistent depth, accurately and hopefully finding a relatively easy method is beyond me right now. I can't face cutting up cork sheet to slot between sleepers, then again Cris Nevard's DAS clay method looks equally laborious. Chris (and many others) build cameo layouts. My layout is huge and there's the rub.

[Stubby47]

An interesting and relevant post:

 

[Edwardian]

33 minutes ago, Martin S-C said:

The idea of laying ash ballast (of which I will need a LOT), filling the spaces between the sleepers to a consistent depth, accurately and hopefully finding a relatively easy method is beyond me right now. I can't face cutting up cork sheet to slot between sleepers, then again Cris Nevard's DAS clay method looks equally laborious. Chris (and many others) build cameo layouts. My layout is huge and there's the rub.

 

Actually, this was quite a quick process on my daughter's layout, where ash ballast was required, notwithstanding the use of set-track with deep sleepers. Chinchilla dust comes in big bags and will be a fraction of the cost per yard of track than anything sold for use as ballast. 

 

The time consuming aspect was pre-colouring if, but you avoid that if you simply spray paint in situ. 

 

Looks good and is fast, fun, and cheap as chips. 

[chuffinghell]

2 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

It might also be worth considering how to build the ground up around the track before adding the ballast.

 

Al on Ladmanlow cut cork sheet around each sleeper...

 

15 minutes ago, Edwardian said:

 

Actually, this was quite a quick process on my daughter's layout, where ash ballast was required, notwithstanding the use of set-track with deep sleepers. Chinchilla dust comes in big bags and will be a fraction of the cost per yard of track than anything sold for use as ballast. 

 

The time consuming aspect was pre-colouring if, but you avoid that if you simply spray paint in situ. 

 

Looks good and is fast, fun, and cheap as chips. 

 

52 minutes ago, Martin S-C said:

The idea of laying ash ballast (of which I will need a LOT), filling the spaces between the sleepers to a consistent depth, accurately and hopefully finding a relatively easy method is beyond me right now. I can't face cutting up cork sheet to slot between sleepers, then again Cris Nevard's DAS clay method looks equally laborious. Chris (and many others) build cameo layouts. My layout is huge and there's the rub.

 

I have the advantage of having a tiny layout (tiny in comparison to a proper one like yours Martin)

 

I also have a massive amount of patience (otherwise known as I take a very long time to do anything )

 

Thanks for the help guys, its appreciated as always 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 19, 2019 by chuffinghell

[Harlequin]

You might have a look at @BobM's Cambrian Street (Hi Bob!) where he went through a learning process to surface his goods yard.

 

I think he ended up basically using the DAS method but he also used some real railway ash, which he "processed" down to very fine particles.

 

[Martin S-C]

1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

I have the advantage of having a tiny layout (tiny in comparison to a proper one like yours Martin)

 

I also have a massive amount of patience (otherwise known as I take a very long time to do anything )

 

Ha. I have a huge layout and a noted lack of patience... so we shall see what we shall see...

[chuffinghell]

2 hours ago, Harlequin said:

You might have a look at @BobM's Cambrian Street (Hi Bob!) where he went through a learning process to surface his goods yard.

 

I think he ended up basically using the DAS method but he also used some real railway ash, which he "processed" down to very fine particles.

 

 

@BobM‘s Cambrian Street looks superb, thanks for pointing me in the direction of his posts

[chuffinghell]

I’ve got myself a Bachmann Ballast line marking wagon with authentic real wood load 

[Nick C]

Have a look at photos online of preserved loco depots to see how the ash and ballast meet - I just did a Google image search for Ropley (mid-hants), and you can clearly see how the ash in the yard blends with the ballast on the main running lines - there's no real demarkation line.

[chuffinghell]

19 hours ago, Stubby47 said:

It might also be worth considering how to build the ground up around the track before adding the ballast.

 

Al on Ladmanlow cut cork sheet around each sleeper...

 

Thanks Stu

 

I've just taken a look at @Alister_G's Ladmanlow layout and building up around the track looks like a cracking idea.......I might pinch that idea 

 

I may opt for thinner cork though so the ash is ever so slightly lower so you can make out the outline of the sleepers more clearly..........prototypically wrong no doubt but that's what the mildly obese controller 'Sir Flat'um Capp' wants on Warren  

[chuffinghell]

would I get away with something like this or do I have to remove the barrow crossing?

 

Please excuse the poor artwork, I only have windows paintbrush at my disposal

 

1) ash ballasted just below the sleepers, keeping the barrow crossing (preferred option)

 

2) Cover the sleepers and partiatially cover the barrow crossing leaving some rail visible (compromise)

 

3) What I imagine I should do as the correct way, remove the barrow crossing and ballast upto the top of the rail (least favorite as a personal preference) 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 20, 2019 by chuffinghell

[St Enodoc]

2 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

would I get away with something like this or do I have to remove the barrow crossing?

 

Please excuse the poor artwork, I only have windows paintbrush at my disposal

 

1) ash ballasted just below the sleepers, keeping the barrow crossing (preferred option)

 

2) Cover the sleepers and partiatially cover the barrow crossing leaving some rail visible (compromise)

 

3) What I imagine I should do as the correct way, remove the barrow crossing and ballast upto the top of the rail (least favorite as a personal preference) 

 

 

 

 

I'll take Box 1 please, Michael.

[chuffinghell]

12 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

I'll take Box 1 please, Michael.

 

I've messed about with combining option 1 & 2

 

Still leaving the sleepers visible but reducing the barrow crossing

 

 

I quite like this one

[sb67]

I would have gone for option 1 or your combination.

Steve. 

[chuffinghell]

When I get around to doing it I'll make sure it doesn't look like cigarette ash like it does on my picture 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 20, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

Well I’ve cut down the barrow crossing, luckily I used PVA on the side pieces, I used superglue on the centre section because the PVA wasn’t drying quick enough to hold it in position

 

I wasn’t particularly happy with the ‘flat’ look, despite being weathered they still didn’t look like individual planks

 

So I took a risk and using an engineers scribe made the grooves between the ‘planks’ deeper and then ran a watered down black wash down the groove

 

I think it turned out quite well

 

Just need to do the sides once the paint has dried 

Edited June 20, 2019 by chuffinghell

[sb67]

That all looks very good Chuffinghell, the inspection pit and base are very neat.

Steve.

[chuffinghell]

Just now, sb67 said:

That all looks very good Chuffinghell, the inspection pit and base are very neat.

Steve.

 

Thanks Steve

 

Chris

[chuffinghell]

Just needs a coat of Matt varnish

 

I suppose really I should cut it into individual planks and have them slightly uneven Maybe

[Alister_G]

That's looking good Chris.

 

Were I to do it again, I would do as you suggested and go for thinner cork. I bought what was allegedly 3mm, based on the thickness of the sleepers, but by the time you've painted it and weathered it and added ash, it tends to end up thicker, so I would start with 2mm to end up with the sleepers showing.

 

Great stuff!

 

Al.

[chuffinghell]

8 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

That's looking good Chris.

 

Were I to do it again, I would do as you suggested and go for thinner cork. I bought what was allegedly 3mm, based on the thickness of the sleepers, but by the time you've painted it and weathered it and added ash, it tends to end up thicker, so I would start with 2mm to end up with the sleepers showing.

 

Great stuff!

 

Al.

 

Thanks Al 

 

Hope you didn’t think my suggestion of using thinner cork was in any way a criticism of your work 

 

Chris

Edited June 20, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

Stupid question but am I correct in assuming the barrow crossing should sit on top of the ballast (or slightly compressed into it)

[AlfaZagato]

That's a rule 1, I think.   Probably was handled differently any time a yard bothered.