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Excellent work on that Pump House matey, and I do like the idea of a working Smoke Stack.

 

A mate of mine, Martin / Gismorail on here has done something similar on his Chester Northgate Layout with a Disco smoke unit and an outlet in the pits, along with red LED's.

 

Keep up the good work.

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I know I said I wouldn’t be doing anything else on the pump house but I couldn’t help myself

 

Ive dry brushed the brick for a purposeful uneven, patchy finish

 

once fully dry I’ll weather it and attempt to pick out some of the bricks 

 

892C936D-3027-44E7-8653-25371A95187E.jpeg.a4de4245486bf7c1d7aa7a3b01ddd904.jpeg

 

Equally I’ve sprayed a patchy coat of a lighter grey on the main building again it needs weathering

 

76519627-15C6-4283-B4F9-590B511B2DD1.jpeg.b8a33453cbc3a2cca880410867f498ac.jpeg

Edited by chuffinghell
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1 hour ago, Stubby47 said:

I'm curious as to why you left the stone embellishments off before priming.

 

I felt it would be easier for me to prime and paint everything separately and weather it all after assembly to blend it together.

 

Its basically to aid against any wonky painting

 

Have a gone about it the wrong way?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Andrew P said:

Excellent work on that Pump House matey, and I do like the idea of a working Smoke Stack.

 

A mate of mine, Martin / Gismorail on here has done something similar on his Chester Northgate Layout with a Disco smoke unit and an outlet in the pits, along with red LED's.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks Andy

 

I’m using a Suethe 12v generator from a 16v A/C to 12 DC power supply via an on/off switch I’ll mount on the facia board

 

99A1EC40-5083-41B6-BFE8-8EBE9CA203D2.jpeg.fb7aa0878486d4332d0a3beaecc4b447.jpeg

 

 

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I’ve attempted to ‘paint’ the main building by using different shades of grey stippled on with a torn off piece of sponge

 

I quite like the effect but others my feel differently

 

The white windows now look ‘very’ white, I was tempted to paint them black or green but I’m not sure

786DB5A3-9513-467A-84BF-D2C5B6EC8D1A.jpeg

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With regard to the white windows, a light dusting of a dark earth weathering powder will tone things down a bit. 

 

As here...

 

 

Rob. 

20190511_080651-05.jpeg

Edited by NHY 581
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1 hour ago, NHY 581 said:

With regard to the white windows, a light dusting of a dark earth weathering powder will tone things down a bit. 

 

As here...

 

 

Rob. 

20190511_080651-05.jpeg

 

Thanks Rob, that building looks superb!

 

I’d forgotten I’d got some dark earth powder

 

DE5FD69B-A4B0-4294-97D0-C1DDB15BE9EA.jpeg.f4c08350af93e2e0593caa80f8e23289.jpeg

 

looks like Fred is wandering around again 

 

Chris

Edited by chuffinghell
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2 hours ago, Nick C said:

3D printing definitely isn't cheating, it's making use of the tools available to you. That looks great.

 

Thank you

 

I must admit I just assumed some would think it was cheating especially with some very skilled  modellers on here that make masterpieces from scratch

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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21 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

 

Thank you

 

I must admit I just assumed some would think it was cheating especially with some very skilled  modellers on here that make masterpieces from scratch

 

 

In my humble opinion, the great thing about this hobby is the scope to go as far, or not, as your skill, time and inclination allow - we've got everything on this forum from the basic "everything RTR, one step up from a trainset" type layouts right through to the full-on everything scratch built masterpieces, and I think there is a place for all of them. 

 

Have a look, for example, at @NHY 581's Mutton - ready-to-plonk buildings and RTR stock, but I don't think anyone could claim that he's cheating when you look at what he's done with them.

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1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

 

Thank you

 

I must admit I just assumed some would think it was cheating especially with some very skilled  modellers on here that make masterpieces from scratch

 

 

 

 

Certainly not cheating, Chuffers. 

 

I've just started planning my next layout which will be a small ( very!) Southern Region terminus. 

 

All the buildings will be ready to plant and in fact I will be laying them out today or tomorrow to get an idea of how things will look. 

 

I tinker with all of the buildings, repainting here and there, adding a bit of detail and above all, weathering. 

 

All you need to worry about is how it looks to you, not how you think it will be received by others. 

 

Remember, you're not building your model railway for me. You're doing it for yourself. .... and it appears making a pretty decent job of it in the process. 

 

 

Rob. 

 

 

Edited by NHY 581
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Doors painted and weathered, just loosely put in place.

 

The hinges are the spare ones from the engine shed kit cut down to size, also just placed in position to make sure they will fit (something I should have thought about before doing the drawings)

E2D0EC94-770A-43D9-86F0-079F9C6E5D5B.jpeg.0807b2d1a438724e633e828eb5e3be21.jpeg

 

luckily they fit......

63EF2912-8A02-4E9B-958E-CBD6A40458E3.jpeg.41c31e877eb769a46da8d57457146990.jpeg

.......assuming the the real world the coach bolts would go through the centre of the wooden planks?

 

Warren Branch are on a tight budget, hence why the doors have been painted with GWR Brown. It’s all they had in the stores, that’s my excuse and I’m sticking with it :lol:

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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Thank you

 

Once the glue has fully set it could do with a blast of Matt varnish all over to remove the slight sheen of the railmatch paint

F62DAE37-A4FF-4418-BF17-BBC10C194B39.jpeg.90d8c19867abe215faa4c34bb5773c1c.jpeg

 

I’ve just placed in to see how it looks and for a change I’m actually quite pleased with something I’ve done :lol:

7293FACD-5909-4DC5-98C1-97E59F43B37A.jpeg.333c7c4947355c52c7f90e4ed50f1521.jpeg

 

Still a bit to do yet but there’s no rush

 

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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When I remember, I put a few drops of matting agent into most makes of "matt" finish paints as most seem to dry with a slight sheen. Only Tamiya flat colours seem to be truly matt.

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Also consider the natural sheen of the oil-based paints that would have been used at the time.   The only truly flat finishes I've seen from the time are Parkerized finishes on military equipment.   

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