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5 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

Would this type of wagon have had a steel or wooden floor?
 

A History of GWR Goods Wagons does not directly say in reference to any P diagram.   In regards to iron-bodied N(coal/mineral) and O(general merchandise opens,) though, special mention is made of an O-diagram having wood floors as a special case.   I'd wager, then, an iron P-diagram would be iron-floored.

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On 27/06/2020 at 21:38, Alister_G said:

 

You have to collect up all the sawdust, and bake it into a Knäckebröd. Then cover in pickled herring, and consume whilst lying in a bathtub at midnight when the moon is full.

 

So I've heard...

 

:D

 

Al.

 

That didn't work unfortunatly

 

Although it might be because I used sardines in a tomato sauce instead of pickled herring

 

Oh well, live and learn

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On ‎27‎/‎06‎/‎2020 at 20:38, Alister_G said:

Don't you know you're not supposed to saw Ikea furniture up, it lets all the Swedish magic out?

 

On ‎27‎/‎06‎/‎2020 at 21:28, chuffinghell said:

I wasn’t aware that cutting up Ikea furniture released all the Swedish magic, is there anyway to put it back in?

 

Just play lots of Abba songs...

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9 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

 

I think that particular form of torture is banned under the Geneva Convention.

 

I wondered why Alexa say "absolutely not" when I asked her to play songs by ABBA

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Now I’m not giving up on the ballast wagon!

 

I’m just going to put it to one side and come back to it......before I get further frustrated and turn it into an aircraft by throwing it across the room :lol:

 

I’ve attempted to bend the door springs as instructed but they don’t bend, they snap so I’m going to experiment with microstrip instead

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Door stop springs. They got the better of me years ago on a. Ratio Open A. The older Ratio kits seemed to be made of a type of plastic that had more in common with glass.

 

The solution consisted of: Tin can. Sharp scissors. Superglue. If you are feeling particularly fancy you can use leftover sprue from brass etchings. I'm assuming that you don't and tin is more resilient to the odd bash.

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I took another look at the ballast wagon last night and noticed another issue that needs addressing. the brake shoes sit too high by approx 2mm (so 6" in real terms)

 

Stock photo:-

 

gwr-10ton-ballast-starfish.jpg.01c495c99fce03b81b13b5447e90137e.jpg

 

Red line is wheel ctr and the green line is the brake shoe ctr

 

So I need to do a little modifications including lowering the 'V' hanger to match

 

Or maybe I'm wrong and I should just leave it and assemble it as it comes?

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I am no expert but what you are saying makes perfect sense and looks like you are right.

 

However you need to weigh things up here, Are you creating a whole world of pain for something that you are unlikely to really see when on your layout? I do not mean this harshly but it is something I have had to learn over the past couple of years. Noticing it, addressing it is good but sometimes you need to un-notice it for your own sanity. I wish you luck, sorry not much help back to my annoying flats.

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11 minutes ago, Bluemonkey presents.... said:

I am no expert but what you are saying makes perfect sense and looks like you are right.

 

However you need to weigh things up here, Are you creating a whole world of pain for something that you are unlikely to really see when on your layout? I do not mean this harshly but it is something I have had to learn over the past couple of years. Noticing it, addressing it is good but sometimes you need to un-notice it for your own sanity. I wish you luck, sorry not much help back to my annoying flats.

 

You need to go back and read the rest of this thread! :smile_mini:

 

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3 hours ago, Bluemonkey presents.... said:

I am no expert but what you are saying makes perfect sense and looks like you are right.

 

However you need to weigh things up here, Are you creating a whole world of pain for something that you are unlikely to really see when on your layout? I do not mean this harshly but it is something I have had to learn over the past couple of years. Noticing it, addressing it is good but sometimes you need to un-notice it for your own sanity. I wish you luck, sorry not much help back to my annoying flats.


I know but it would bug me so I’ve lowered the brake assy using microstrip as a spacer (it was only 1mm out) and added strips to the ‘V’ to lower it to match


F0B20696-B59F-44CB-BD0B-36F6F37F8B5E.jpeg.6390291b4296eda7303bec4e9c2c116d.jpeg
 

Yes I know it’s petty but I think it looks better with the brake shoes on the same centre line as the wheels

 

Plus it’s given a little more clearance for the wheels as they did interfere a little (which is the only reason I spotted it in the first place)

 

If I were to build another (unlikely) I’d slot the holes for the wheel bearings and move the wheels up slightly instead

 

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The hanger for the DC brake doesn’t look right to me (compared to photos)

 

Luckily you get two lengths of solebars so having cut off the ‘V’ hanger from the surplus solebar I’ve cut it at an angle and glued that on instead

 

7FB1730B-B348-44BE-AE0F-5D0A2462EC85.jpeg.a0889bf1b2618b1a6c2c52fe3d221bb5.jpeg
 

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I’ve gone too far as always with the remaining left over ‘V’ hangers and cut up bits of the surplus solebars :rolleyes:

 

93E05A3D-1A45-45B1-8F22-91A934CF3103.jpeg.648f2888e65eaa1bf7627fcb90895d7d.jpeg
 

I didn’t have any styrene rod hence the use of a green downpipe left over from a Peco building kit. Waste not want not!

 

Found the coupling pockets in my bits ‘n’ bobs box as well as some DC levers off another wagon from past f*** ups (I mean abandoned projects)

 

I don’t throw anything away if I think it will come in use......I’m terrible for buying job lots of bits on eBay and salvaging stuff from failed and abandoned projects

 

614A37AF-1D12-4CA0-AD43-1E725C07F6C1.jpeg.3528df15d6dcdad68b4482bde9c9f599.jpeg
 

Why I bother to keep wheels and couplings that I’ve replaced and DCC blanking plates is a total mystery though, I’m turning into a hoarder 

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6 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

I’ve gone too far

Chris, one of those sets of brake shoes is the wrong way round. The push rods (from the centre to the shoes) should be parallel when viewed from the side.

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On 01/07/2020 at 01:00, MrWolf said:

.......If you are feeling particularly fancy you can use leftover sprue from brass etchings.......


I think I may have inadvertently found something I can use to make the door springs?
 

1C8D8CD7-D211-4933-8656-C06F0AB0FB29.jpeg.2519e49c0457b77a7ea381f69d0aa441.jpeg

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1 hour ago, Nile said:

Chris, one of those sets of brake shoes is the wrong way round. The push rods (from the centre to the shoes) should be parallel when viewed from the side.


Thanks Neil, well spotted.

 

I followed the instructions blindly, the brake assemblies are marked with an ‘F’ and are identical. The instructions state that the ‘F’ faces outside which would be fine if they were outside levers and not DC brakes.....I didn’t give it any thought so thank you for spotting it before the solvent had fully hardened :good:

 

It's been rectified


13E6E37D-9717-4D95-8F92-B5B6A4E36438.jpeg.d2abc6b5424195534fd09654a3bcd06e.jpeg

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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2 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I keep those too. I don't know why either.

 

I have too, they come into their own when you sell a loco on and want to take the decoder out.

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What a difference a little primer makes
 

5289FFD4-BB7C-4ACE-84B8-15259C080EB4.jpeg.70cbc3d68165d9ddae04b46febff54b8.jpeg

 

I’m still undecided on what to do about door springs. I don’t want to leave them off but I also don’t want to ruin what I’ve done so far

 

 

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After a couple of attempts.....

 

03F87CB0-63A9-4EBF-B5DA-F9A771D4F3DC.jpeg.4152879ab058540bba0b88e87d2e9903.jpeg

 

......I decided to bite the bullet

 

BA3E1257-1CA0-4E7B-A74F-D85543BA7631.jpeg.c3b8a6450545335b105d25bf29ec9e96.jpeg

 

He who dares wins Rodney

 

If they are the wrong shape and in the wrong place it’s tough! :lol:

 

Just the other side to do now :wacko:

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