Warren Branch

[MAP66]

Hi Chris

If you drop in on the virtual exhibition this weekend, I hear that Kathy Millatt will be showing how to create realistic roads. Not sure if 1930's road surface will form part of the demonstration but probably worth a looksee to pick up some tips.

In the past I have had some success with 400 grit wet and dry paper, just glue it down and use weathering powders or air brush, its better suited for replicating tarmac road surfaces though but might be worth experimenting with to see if it can be used in a couple of areas within the yard itself. Also tea dust is very useful for fine grit, I use it at the edges of roads and hard stand areas. 

[NHY 581]

I use charcoal/wood ash obtained from a barbecue, Chris. 

 

This has provided the yard surfaces on Mutton, Sheep Dip and Sheep Lane. 

 

First a thin layer of neat pva is put down. The Ash is then applied. Teaspooned into a tea strainer and shaken onto the wet pva. Leave for a bit then secure using diluted pva as per ballasting with a syringe. 

 

Keep the syringe close to the surface when dropping the pva or it will crater....

 

Panic because everything is now white and leave. 

 

It will dry clear. 

 

Try on a small piece of card or similar. 

 

I've added a couple of recent  photos where you can glimpse the surface on the loading Dock at Sheep Dip. 

 

 

Rob. 

Edited November 6, 2020 by NHY 581
Add photo

[chuffinghell]

5 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

I use charcoal/wood ash obtained from a barbecue, Chris. 

 

This has provided the yard surfaces on Mutton, Sheep Dip and Sheep Lane. 

 

First a thin layer of neat pva is put down. The Ash is then applied. Teaspooned into a tea strainer and shaken onto the wet pva. Leave for a bit then secure using diluted pva as per ballasting with a syringe. 

 

Keep the syringe close to the surface when dropping the pva or it will crater....

 

Panic because everything is now white and leave. 

 

It will dry clear. 

 

Try on a small piece of card or similar. 

 

I've added a couple of recent  photos where you can glimpse the surface on the loading Dock at Sheep Dip. 

 

 

Rob. 

Thanks Rob,

 

Warren isn’t in the same league as Sheep Dip but I’ll definitely give that a try, if it’s half as good it will be an achievement

 

Chris

[NHY 581]

2 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

Thanks Rob,

 

Warren isn’t in the same league as Sheep Dip but I’ll definitely give that a try, if it’s half as good it will be an achievement

 

Chris

 

Hi Chris. 

 

Methinks you sell yourself short here......

 

Rob. 

[chuffinghell]

You’ll have to use your imagination for this one...

 

 

 

 

I settled on a Wills kits occupation/farm crossing for a number of reasons

 

1) It’s wide enough for my purposes

2) The posts are just the right thickness for the walling

3) The ‘disk’ and lamp are separate to save me cutting and carving

4) It was cheap

 

I know it is wrong having the hinges on the front of the post but this was to allow the gate to open over 90 degrees

 

Probably not period correct but I quite like it

 

Edited November 6, 2020 by chuffinghell

[LBSC123]

Looks good! What is the width between the posts, please? I'm in need of a similar gate for my quay. 

[chuffinghell]

1 minute ago, LBSC123 said:

Looks good! What is the width between the posts, please? I'm in need of a similar gate for my quay. 

Correct way?

My way (mounting the hinges on the front to give more than 90 degree opening)

 

Does that help?

[chuffinghell]

Well he who dares wins Rodney

 

A bit scary

 

Very scary

 

Less scary

 

Just need to leave it to dry
 

I doesn’t matter if it doesn’t dry perfectly because it’s going to get covered in a road surface of some description, plus flock and/or grass can cover a multitude of sins

 

Edited November 6, 2020 by chuffinghell

[Alister_G]

That's looking very good Chris, and I like the gate too.

 

Al.

[chuffinghell]

Just now, Alister_G said:

That's looking very good Chris, and I like the gate too.

 

Al.

Thanks Al

 

I was feeling a little guilty for not scratch building one after you we’re kind enough to post the link to the one you made

 

I went for the lazy option 

 

Chris

[Alister_G]

One day, mate, one day.

 

Al.

[wamwig]

You could even disguise the join with a line of 'setts' which are often used in such situations to continue the drainage along the road channel, just a thought as an almost ex highway engineer!

[chuffinghell]

24 minutes ago, wamwig said:

You could even disguise the join with a line of 'setts' which are often used in such situations to continue the drainage along the road channel, just a thought as an almost ex highway engineer!

I thought about putting a row of sets this side of the gate between the road and good yard area.

 

Is that the join you mean? Apologies if not, my brain switches off after 8pm
 

If I did would they be between the posts (blue line) or just inside where my plasticard finishes (red line)

 

Or have I miss understood completely and you meant the join shown in yellow

 

 

Edited November 6, 2020 by chuffinghell

[wamwig]

Ah well if it was me I would probably put one line along the yellow line to delineate the edge of the road and another on the blue line to delineate what would probably be the highway boundary, assuming there is a verge!

[chuffinghell]

7 minutes ago, wamwig said:

Ah well if it was me I would probably put one line along the yellow line to delineate the edge of the road and another on the blue line to delineate what would probably be the highway boundary, assuming there is a verge!

Thanks for the explanation, not sure how to achieve the curved boundary. There’s no verge as such, too narrow for that I think.

 

Sets between the gate posts was something I thought about as a distinction between the road and ballasted yard

[wamwig]

11 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

Thanks for the explanation, not sure how to achieve the curved boundary. There’s no verge as such, too narrow for that I think.

 

Sets between the gate posts was something I thought about as a distinction between the road and ballasted yard

 

What I use for setts in this sort of situation (and for stone sett roadways) is a wall covering that I take 'samples' of from my local DIY store (it begins with B and ends with Q), it is an 'embossed' brick pattern (about the size of a brick in OO) that I flattern slightly, a single line of these can be easily curved.

Edited November 6, 2020 by wamwig

[chuffinghell]

I’ve had a scratch around and had some left over slaters sheet I used for the platform paving which I’ve cut down to fit

 

 

I’ll be able to bring up the level of the ballast flush

[wamwig]

Perfect!

[MrWolf]

What he said!

[chuffinghell]

Unfortunately I’m unable to do what I’d planned due to running out of supplies and having no model shops near by.

 

I’ve ordered the necessary items but they probably won’t arrive till Tuesday....typical!

[chuffinghell]

I have got many things I can be getting on with but I had hoped to get the gate installed and the walling in place.

 

Its just a real shame that we’ve lost so many traditional model shops in favour of online ordering

 

I could go to Halfrauds for some white spray primer, oh no hang on, my local Halfrauds closed down following the last lockdown 

 

Edited November 7, 2020 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

I’ve been messing about with the gate, being from a crossing kit the hinge is functional

 

 

 

 

Would it be feasible to have an additional post to tie back the gate?

 

 

Edited November 7, 2020 by chuffinghell

[Rowsley17D]

16 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

I’ve been messing about with the gate, being from a crossing kit it is hinged

 

 

 

Would it be feasible to have an additional post to tie back the gate?

 

 

Yes, but I'm sure it would have been as bulky or as high as that.

[chuffinghell]

3 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

 

Yes, but I'm sure it would have been as bulky or as high as that.

I was just looking at using the left over parts of the kit, waste not want not

[lezz01]

You're right Chris. I'm in North London and there are no model shops at all now. Not even the general one's like 308 models and the Camden model shop. You have to go out west to Ealing or east towards Romford or South to Tooting to find any sort of model shop. There is the place near the Commercial Rd but that's general materials and shut up shop in March and I don't know if they have opened since then.

Regards Lez.