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  • RMweb Gold

I think you only need a wheel where the cable changes direction.  On longer runs you need signal cable posts.

 

Caveat that I am by no means an expert on this, just comments from research into the signalling for Chuffnell Regis :)

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39 minutes ago, Graham T said:

I think you only need a wheel where the cable changes direction.  On longer runs you need signal cable posts.

Correct, slight curves in wire runs are possible with out a wheel.

Didn't want to just tick Agree lest it be thought that it was the second sentence with which I was agreeing!

Paul.

Edited by 5BarVT
clarity
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  • RMweb Gold

Or should these go the other side of the rods?

 

B2F75348-2E1C-4095-8DC2-79A725511368.jpeg.40d6d38553fa60cf4667cfebd612a086.jpeg
 

and replace the single with a double and remove the double one?

 

1F72B4F0-8290-4FC0-B19D-31B58E0E55BA.jpeg.82531bf92c26036c84facece11c6dfd8.jpeg

 

Any help/suggestions appreciated before I put them in the wrong place

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

Depends where the wire run is, and you may need some further away to get the signal wire under the tracks.

Back on page 88ish there were discussions abut what signals you needed and you had the wire runs shown.  Wherever there is a right angle bend, you need a wheel.  Also, the wire run needs to approach the signal along the track not across, so for the loco release shunt signal there will be a wheel outside the box in line with the lever, one near the points to get the wire under the track and one opposite to get it back in line again.  Similarly for every other signal wire.

Have fun, there's not a lot of room on a leading off bed and it can be tricky getting all the wheels in.

:-)

Paul.

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21 minutes ago, 5BarVT said:

…..the wire run needs to approach the signal along the track not across, so for the loco release shunt signal there will be a wheel outside the box in line with the lever, one near the points to get the wire under the track and one opposite to get it back in line again…..


is this what you mean? I’m a bit thick

 

EB06B0BC-F2D0-4E13-9CF5-99780E7C2A26.jpeg.eba621bde193644eea749d870e67204d.jpeg
 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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5 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:


is this what you mean? I’m a bit thick

 

EB06B0BC-F2D0-4E13-9CF5-99780E7C2A26.jpeg.eba621bde193644eea749d870e67204d.jpeg
 

 

No you’re not.  I’d forgotten that you need diagrams not words, apologies from me.

Yes, your diagram shows exactly what I was trying to say in words.

Paul.

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11 minutes ago, 5BarVT said:

No you’re not.  I’d forgotten that you need diagrams not words, apologies from me.

Yes, your diagram shows exactly what I was trying to say in words.

Paul.


I just find diagrams easier to understand

 

To the left there are two ground signals and the semaphore on the platform

 

I found my previous sketch

 

08476544-3533-4E14-9D3E-E05520980E2B.jpeg.a5a1b32ed0941e9a0343019e413211c2.jpeg

 

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4 hours ago, 5BarVT said:

No you’re not.  I’d forgotten that you need diagrams not words, apologies from me.

Yes, your diagram shows exactly what I was trying to say in words.

Paul.

Just one other thing - I'd move the ground signal one timber to the right so that it is clear of the ends of the point blades.

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On 13/07/2019 at 04:02, chuffinghell said:

 

Hang on, you’re suggesting I use ladies pop socks and @Stubby47 has suggested using eye shadow

 

Is there something you guys aren’t telling us :lol:

 

I’m waiting for someone to suggested a use for lip gloss

 

 

I've only just recently started reading-in-earnest on RMWeb, so sorry for reaching back so far to quote things I find interesting, but...

 

I've just checked the wardrobes, and I am now the happy owner or rather a large collection of weathering powders! With probably quite a few that will be railway appropriate.

 

And BTW, I'm thinking of pretty much stealing your layout plan and starting building in the spare bedroom. :lol:

 

Mark

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5 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Just one other thing - I'd move the ground signal one timber to the right so that it is clear of the ends of the point blades.


Not wanting to make excuses but I chose that sleeper because it is wider than the others so the ground signal sits on there just nicely.

 

As you all know I don’t like others thinking that I ignore their advice (as it might not be offered again) but I may have to do the usual and adopt rule #1 as I don’t really want to cut it off for a third time :blush:

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1 hour ago, magpac said:

And BTW, I'm thinking of pretty much stealing your layout plan and starting building in the spare bedroom. :lol:

 

Mark


Hi Mark

 

Well Oscar Wilde said that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery

 

If you look through the thread I’m sure you’ll be able to correct/adapt areas that may have been done better. If I were to it again I’d have longer goods yard sidings and wouldn’t have cut the board as close to the rails to make the good yards bigger

 

Chris

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  • RMweb Gold

Here's a couple of photos that might help - I've added some drawings to illustrate:

 

signal_wires_1_LI.jpg.ac676f54a2b6ef283a093defb4f0bed5.jpg

signal_wires_2_LI.jpg.f6fec69ad4805f6b73579db215961c47.jpg

The light blue arrows point to the pulleys - a couple of which iare fiarly well hidden under the rodding!

 

Orange arrows show the direction of the run - the wire that goes out and back in the second photo goes to another signal just behind the camera.

 

The green arrow shows a detector - bascially an extra mechanical lock that makes sure the point is in the correct position before the signal can move. The two horizontal bars go to the point blades, and have a slot in them (there would also be a third if there was a facing point lock) - the bar attached to the signal crosses them, and is also slotted, so that it can only slide back and forth when the other bars are in the correct position.

 

In this case it's attached directly to the signal - if there was more distance there'd be another wire between the detector and the signal. 

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6 minutes ago, Nick C said:

Here's a couple of photos that might help - I've added some drawings to illustrate:

 

signal_wires_1_LI.jpg.ac676f54a2b6ef283a093defb4f0bed5.jpg

signal_wires_2_LI.jpg.f6fec69ad4805f6b73579db215961c47.jpg

The light blue arrows point to the pulleys - a couple of which iare fiarly well hidden under the rodding!

 

Orange arrows show the direction of the run - the wire that goes out and back in the second photo goes to another signal just behind the camera.

 

The green arrow shows a detector - bascially an extra mechanical lock that makes sure the point is in the correct position before the signal can move. The two horizontal bars go to the point blades, and have a slot in them (there would also be a third if there was a facing point lock) - the bar attached to the signal crosses them, and is also slotted, so that it can only slide back and forth when the other bars are in the correct position.

 

In this case it's attached directly to the signal - if there was more distance there'd be another wire between the detector and the signal. 

 

Does that mean that potentially I don't have to bother with the pulleys in green on my sketch?

 

And also if there is room to put the pulleys under the rodding that would be acceptable

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5 minutes ago, Nick C said:

Yes, fine for the pulleys to be under the rodding if there's space.

 

I think I'd do it like this - please excuse the crappy hand-drawing!

Inkedwarren_LI.jpg.441ec20fcc137d24c8db8e6b2c75f079.jpg

 

Here's another prototype pic that might help:

IMG_20191103_153532872.jpg.fd13753c1eae8955f524558d2f2f90fa.jpg

 

Thank you very much for your help once again

 

I'll have to have a play and see what room I have, as mentioned I won't be cabling them up but if I could at least have the pulleys in the correct/feasible position that should do........maybe

 

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1 hour ago, Nick C said:

Here's another prototype pic that might help:

IMG_20191103_153532872.jpg.fd13753c1eae8955f524558d2f2f90fa.jpg

 

Is this also a detector/interlock (GWR ground signal)

 

1310070275_groundsiginterlock.jpg.e37e7358f734b0e3875f60958a0dbf2f.jpg

 

If so should I not move the ground signal one sleeper to the left and this rod connected to the tiebar?

 

Untitled.jpg.7accafce212e52911ed614e04ad197e3.jpg

 

Although in this photo the rod appears to be attached to the very tip of the point blade

 

groundsig35.jpg.771a9ae0c07c54c2e296ab23bcf0b056.jpg

 

Apologies for asking stupid question

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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23 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

Is this also a detector/interlock (GWR ground signal)

Although in this photo the rod appears to be attached to the very tip of the point blade

 

groundsig35.jpg.771a9ae0c07c54c2e296ab23bcf0b056.jpg

 

Apologies for asking stupid question

 

 

 

Yep, it looks like it is - a slightly different design but the same principle, the vertical rod won't be able to drop until the horizontal bars are aligned.

 

The rods are attached to the tips of the blades, as that way they prove that they are fully home - also note how they are separate from the tie bar, so that they prove what the blades have done, not what the rodding says they should have done (e.g. if one of the blades came adrift from the tie bar)

 

Note also the positioning of the signal relative to the points - closer than the one in my photo, but still beyond the tips so ensuring that anything standing at the signal will be well clear of the points.

 

Not a stupid question at all, it's getting into proper in-depth signalling!

Edited by Nick C
deleted too much of quote
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From several recent postings it is fairly obvious that the simplest solution to the exact positions and logical connection of all the pulleys, not to mention the balanced weighting and compensated rodding, which of itself has no direct bearing, but does have a relative and reciprocal influence, is lots and lots of leaves...

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17 minutes ago, Nick C said:

 

Yep, it looks like it is - a slightly different design but the same principle, the vertical rod won't be able to drop until the horizontal bars are aligned.

 

The rods are attached to the tips of the blades, as that way they prove that they are fully home - also note how they are separate from the tie bar, so that they prove what the blades have done, not what the rodding says they should have done (e.g. if one of the blades came adrift from the tie bar)

 

Note also the positioning of the signal relative to the points - closer than the one in my photo, but still beyond the tips so ensuring that anything standing at the signal will be well clear of the points.

 

Not a stupid question at all, it's getting into proper in-depth signalling!

 

So basically it looks like I've put it in the correct(ish) position

 

IMG_65472.jpg.9aab63bf2e518124030bd85d3150bd1b.jpg

 

Thanks for your help, I'm glad Warren only has two semaphore signals and three ground signals otherwise I'd be totally lost :lol:

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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