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20 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Yes, that's right - but if you can measure 2.67mm with your ruler you're a better man than I, Gunga Din.

That's what Vernier gauges are for. Set the Vernier to 2.67mm, Position on signal arm draw 2 lines with an ultra fine fibre tip pen and then paint between the lines. If you don't have a steady hand then use masking tape. Job done!

Regards Lez. 

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1 hour ago, lezz01 said:

That's what Vernier gauges are for. Set the Vernier to 2.67mm, Position on signal arm draw 2 lines with an ultra fine fibre tip pen and then paint between the lines. If you don't have a steady hand then use masking tape. Job done!

Regards Lez. 

I use waterslide transfer stripes so I don't have to paint them at all - but I still have to cut the transfers to the right width!

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9 hours ago, lezz01 said:

That's what Vernier gauges are for. Set the Vernier to 2.67mm, Position on signal arm draw 2 lines with an ultra fine fibre tip pen and then paint between the lines. If you don't have a steady hand then use masking tape. Job done!

Regards Lez. 

 

Although I have/use a vernier I think I'll get away with 3mm (or just under) and I will more than likely mask it off and use my airbrush

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4 minutes ago, Graham T said:

That seems like a lot of effort - setting up the airbrush just for that I mean.  I'd just use the old "hairy stick" personally!

 

My airbrush is permanently set up ready to use and I generally use Vallejo Air paint which are ready to use out of the bottle....I find the clean up afterwards requires the most effort

 

6 minutes ago, Gedward said:

 

"You've got a vernier? You're an engineer!"

 

Very true and a micrometer and a depth gauge, I just thought that using it in this instance may be a little OTT

 

I don't think I'll notice if the stripe is 0.33mm too wide

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13 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Proper engineers, like wot I is, call them Verynears.

 

The ones I have for work have DRO. I refer to them as large or small digital spanner. The one I use at home actually has a vernier. 

Edited by richbrummitt
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27 minutes ago, Gedward said:

But seriously, a vernier is just another item I'm putting off buying for now. No doubt I'll get one when needs must.

 

The one I use at home is a cheap digital one for about £10 from Aldi or Lidl and is almost identical to the one I have at work that cost five times the price

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53 minutes ago, richbrummitt said:

 

The ones I have for work have DRO. I refer to them as large or small digital spanner. The one I use at home actually has a vernier. 

Serious question - how do you calibrate the digital ones?

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48 minutes ago, Graham T said:

I must confess to having both a vernier and an airbrush.  Neither of which I use as much as I probably should.

 

I must admit the spray pattern with the vernier is more accurate than the airbrush :lol: 

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6 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Serious question - how do you calibrate the digital ones?

 

I think they are checked against a specially calibrated one?

 

We just tell the inspector during the annual ISO quality standards audit that you don't use them which in a way is true because we only design and assemble 'in house' all components are made elsewhere to our drawings/specifications

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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1 minute ago, St Enodoc said:

That's what I thought but how do you adjust the readout?

 

It's not something we get involved with but I would imagine the calibration is done off site by a dedicated calibration service

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13 minutes ago, lezz01 said:

I have a dial on mine so I can't comment on how to calibrate one with a DRO but there must be a set button on it.

Regards Lez. 

 

I find the digital read out ones to be a real pain when you take it on site with you and the battery is dead...hence why I always carry a spare battery in my site kit

 

It's been many years since I've used a proper one

 

What we have is good enough for our purposes as a draughtsman's spanner

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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3 minutes ago, lezz01 said:

I have a dial on mine so I can't comment on how to calibrate one with a DRO but there must be a set button on it.

Regards Lez. 

Thanks Lez. Mine has a dial too, with a rotating bezel and a locking screw. I've never owned or used a digital one, hence my question.

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10 minutes ago, lezz01 said:

I have a dial on mine so I can't comment on how to calibrate one with a DRO but there must be a set button on it.

Regards Lez. 

 

There is a zero button

 

7 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Thanks Lez. Mine has a dial too, with a rotating bezel and a locking screw. I've never owned or used a digital one, hence my question.

 

The facility to switch between metric and imperial at the touch of a button comes in useful

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8 minutes ago, Ponthir28 said:

I worked for over forty years as a toolmaker we always called a vernier a guessing stick. Both digital and analogue. Micrometer checked against slip gauges for anything accurate.

I too was a toolmaker (press tools and moulds) and I totally agree with you but sometimes, as in this case, a micrometre is not appropriate nor the right tool for the job. I still have my DTI and slip gauges but my face plate isn't much use as it needs a regrind and I don't have access to a surface grinder. 

Regards Lez.

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