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  • RMweb Gold

I'm liking the use of space there and judging by your stock cupboard I'm going to like this!

Thank you, still along way to go yet but I’ll get there. The inspirational layouts on this site will keep me going

 

Chris

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  • 3 months later...
  • RMweb Gold

I’ve not done anything with the baseboard for a while as I’ve been preoccupied with locos and rolling stock, as well as work and family life (excuses, excuses)

However, the “great model railway challenge” has inspired me to get off my backside and get it done.

So this evening I’ve moved the TV up higher and butchered what I’d already done to incorporate a sliding traverser along the chimney breast

My plan is to have the traverser done and in place by next week

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Edited by chuffinghell
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  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
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  • RMweb Gold

Due to my ‘wire and cable phobia’ when I originally put the TV on the wall I used plastic trunking to hide all the wires which at the time looked okay

 

However, having decided to put the traverser there gave me a bit of a challenge

 

I do have a router but didn’t have any material thick enough to router an 18mm deep groove so this was plan B

 

I now have a lovely flat surface to work with

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  • RMweb Gold

Managed to get a little more done this weekend, one of the ‘requests’ in agreeing to having the traverser along the chimney breast was to make it ‘look nice and blend in with the room’

 

This was the best I could do, it’s in primer at the moment and will be getting a coat of grey

 

I’ve had to remove the centre slide as it was bending the board upward in the middle, only slightly but enough to bug me.

 

It’s not perfect but I’m getting there

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Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

I've not seen the folding wall brackets before - can you tell me where you found them please?

I found them on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B074N8P2WW/ref=psdcmw_1938668031_t1_B07CHHHV24

 

They don’t quite sit at 90 degrees so you have to lengthen the slot in the lever, there is also quite a lot of sideways movement so I drilled out the rivets and replaced with bolts and nyloc nuts at the pivot point

 

However, Screwfix now do what appears to better, heavier duty version (at a heavier duty price) https://www.screwfix.com/p/adjustable-folding-bracket-silver-300-x-200mm-2-pack/62799?tc=UA8&ds_kid=92700022063967131&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1244072&ds_rl=1249481&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0Nvml86p3gIVQbDtCh3XAAEhEAQYAiABEgLygfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

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Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

Hopefully I’ll be trial fitting these later this evening for the traverser indexing

The board will comfortably hold six tracks, however, I’ve opted for five spaced at 70mm to allow for peco loco lifts with a gap between them for removal (that's the theory anyway)

 

Fingers crossed I've got my measurements correct

 

If all else fails I'll have to revert back to small door bolts (as a last resort)

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Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

Looks like I’ll be using door/barrel bolts, I wanted it to be uncluttered and to self locate but track alignment is more important than appearance

 

Just need to find some good quality barrel bolts that are a snug fit

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  • RMweb Gold

The spring strength of the sprung plunger was too high, I’d bought some door bolts as a last resort but there is far too much slack.

 

I’ve had a new spindle machined to a higher tolerance which has done the trick, however, I want to try something else first

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Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

How about a wheel of slightly larger diameter than the registration holes on a small swing arm. The swing arm would provide lateral accuracy and a spring would press the wheel against the registration plate and into the holes.

 

When the wheel is engaged it's two sides would be touching the sides of the registration hole and so the traverser would be lightly held in place with no sideways play.

 

To change the traverser position you'd only need to push or pull lightly on the side to overcome the spring pushing the wheel into the hole, no need to operate any kind of shoot bolt.

 

I'll draw a little diagram if I get time.

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  • RMweb Gold

For traverser alignment you cant beat brass tube, square or round depending on preference, two adjacent sizes which slide together with no movement.

Outer tube on board and traverser, inner slides in from the end, with the added bonus you can use them for current carrying to make each unused road dead for safety of stock.

 

Mike.

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  • RMweb Gold

For traverser alignment you cant beat brass tube, square or round depending on preference, two adjacent sizes which slide together with no movement.

Outer tube on board and traverser, inner slides in from the end, with the added bonus you can use them for current carrying to make each unused road dead for safety of stock.

 

Mike.

 

Thanks Mike

 

I had considered this, unfortunately my soldering is poo! and although it's not an exhibition layout and for my enjoyment only I still don't want it to look a mess (honestly my soldering is really that bad)

 

It does make sense having dead lines though, being DCC my intention was to wire all the tracks together (for simplicity)

 

How about a wheel of slightly larger diameter than the registration holes on a small swing arm. The swing arm would provide lateral accuracy and a spring would press the wheel against the registration plate and into the holes.

 

When the wheel is engaged it's two sides would be touching the sides of the registration hole and so the traverser would be lightly held in place with no sideways play.

 

To change the traverser position you'd only need to push or pull lightly on the side to overcome the spring pushing the wheel into the hole, no need to operate any kind of shoot bolt.

 

I'll draw a little diagram if I get time.

 

Thanks Phil

 

Sounds interesting! I didn't really want to have to use shoot bolts

 

If you get time to do a sketch it would be appreciated

 

Chris

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  • RMweb Gold

unfortunately I've only got a 14mm gap.......although it looks very similar to a roller contact switch, I think my works would notice if I robbed one off the roller shutter door

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Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

unfortunately I've only got a 14mm gap.......

There are all sort of ways you could mount it.

 

Maybe cut a hole in the adjacent structure and mount the unit in that opening or mount the unit behind and just have the roller wheel protruding through?

 

[Edit: Great Minds, Stu!]

Edited by Harlequin
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