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9 minutes ago, Julia said:

 

 

Is it too late to have an opinion on this?

 

I think a rural station like this would have a cattle dock, livestock transport was a big part of the railways. If you want to have a more is less approach, then removing the siding outside the goods shed between it and the cattle dock might work. How much goods traffic are you expecting? 

 

J

 

It's never to late to offer an opinion

 

I appreciate opinions and suggestions (because I basically haven't got a clue what I'm doing)

 

The jury is still out regarding a cattle dock but you're quite right that a rural location would have one

 

If I were to have a cattle dock I've thought about putting it at the back of the goods shed

 

Chris

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20 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

 

It's never to late to offer an opinion

 

I appreciate opinions and suggestions (because I basically haven't got a clue what I'm doing)

 

The jury is still out regarding a cattle dock but you're quite right that a rural location would have one

 

If I were to have a cattle dock I've thought about putting it at the back of the goods shed

 

Chris

 

Having now caught up on the thread, I saw that option too. I think the version of it on it's own, with also the platform for end loading of wagons would be better. Makes the good shed less cluttered. 

 

A quick google image search of "goodshed with cattle dock" doesn't give a massive number of examples of it in the real world. Probably as the smelly animals next to the good shed where people are working, and where goods are stored, is suboptimal... 

 

Infact looking again at the results on the image search, there are more photos of models with integrated cattle dock and goods shed, than of the real world examples...

 

J

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Bargeboards and fascias done, just need weathering

 

I decided not to do anything too elaborate and keep them plain and simple

69FCEC36-17FD-47B6-8C1B-5994886D668E.jpeg

8618F043-36A3-49C7-8BC1-66EE237B2A5A.jpeg

BF45E21A-1C99-4305-B117-786B14A5E7AC.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

Too much?

 

DF53D4A2-05F2-4935-A67A-24307DC1337B.jpeg.ca9c3067382a4a0aa7540b49dd05d6af.jpeg

 

I know it’s too bright, it’s connected to a 9v battery for demonstration purposes. I’ll solder in the supplied adjustable pcb and adjust the voltage until I get a gas like glow

 

28ED68F5-24BD-4F55-8BF3-485D569F7271.jpeg.c941c646eb39ed1274303d0962c5c9f7.jpeg

 

I’ve ordered a pair of these too, one of which will go at the other end between the door and window at a lower level

 

095AB760-185D-4EF9-A9CE-F2C77CAE9773.jpeg.ee95afd286e989ddc64a6e9c8d7892f7.jpeg

 

I intend to do the same on the engine shed (once built)

 

probably would have been better in black or green but the packet said GWR :blink:

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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Posted (edited)

looks better with a bit of muck

 

B06E321E-36FE-4142-B324-27BE4FF09EA3.jpeg

Edited by chuffinghell
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Posted (edited)

I didn’t want to permanently attach the chimney just in case I needed to replace the smoke generator

 

I didn’t want to leave it loose either because of it being easily knocked over

 

My solution.......magnets glued to the underside with epoxy

C0908CBF-ACE1-4797-86A7-A2FBAC41F51F.jpeg.d8f1823be97ef392ecf2625584892796.jpeg

 

And a steel bar glued in each corner of the chimney again using epoxy

7600EDE0-4F54-45E4-AB00-658FF5831A20.jpeg.9078be9ec7a9b2c59d97eebdcfd85931.jpeg

 

Strong enough to hold it in place

9594F7EA-7241-42B3-AEE3-A057C118993C.jpeg.8346dce5434553c5c9e63e2b3457fa2f.jpeg

 

And lift the building :P

Edited by chuffinghell
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Posted (edited)

The funny (and annoying) thing about doing this was putting the magnets in place.

 

When I tried to attach them straight onto the epoxy the magnets were obviously attracted to each other and kept jumping to each other :lol:

 

I had less than five minutes to find the solution before the epoxy set :o

 

I ended up putting a steel nut above each magnet attaching them one at a time. Luckily the nuts held each magnet in place while the epoxy dried :rolleyes:

 

 

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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The magnets are a neat idea. I am using a similar device to keep my containers attached to my conflat wagons, but allow them to be removed as well.

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Posted (edited)

I’ve carried out a few tests with different smoke oils and voltages (not very scientific)

 

I ran the smoke generator with seuthe oil at 14v down to 10v and it still makes the clicking/farting sound through out the voltage range.

 

I then ran it again using JT Mega-Steam oil again starting at 14v and there is a lot less noise, and a faint aroma of burning coal is an added bonus

 

I’ve attached a video to demonstrate the difference in noise levels between the two oils

 

 

Please note that the smoke generator is a Seuthe No.6 10v-14v version

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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I can't smell any difference.

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1 hour ago, Stubby47 said:

I can't smell any difference.

 

There must be a problem with the upload to YouTube :lol:

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My lamps have arrived for the other end

 

They’re usually quite expensive but I’d accrued fifteen quids worth of necta points so purchased them via eBay (thought I’d treat myself)

 

So basically cost me £1.91 inc postage. :good_mini: 

 

Made the mistake of gluing in place before weathering so I’ll just have to be careful :rolleyes:

 

I’ve ordered some micro connectors so once they arrive I can wire it all up, permanently attach the roof and throw the gutters/downpipes on....

 

....then I’ll make a start on the engine shed

 

Hopefully by the time I’ve done the engine shed my back will be better so I can carry on with the actual layout

A55E611C-C959-408E-B00E-DF0361979084.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

While I’m waiting for these

E0C239D4-70F9-49F3-9536-BE1F2CAC6D09.jpeg.b047d5b8e825f0e544b770e03136fdca.jpeg

 

I rigged up the lamps and played about with the voltage, just over 4v looks okay

 

22CBA39B-21B6-4602-B119-FC0DB455C1FB.jpeg.b659dafb1364bfac90865e0ab2b743fb.jpeg

 

But I think I need to go lower, I’ve looked at photos and gas lights don’t appear to be that bright, I can reduce the voltage as low as 2.5v so I’ll look into that once I’ve wired it properly

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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Lamp weathered

3B6F4976-DAEB-47C9-A31B-E1773532A721.jpeg.dd58b46618e7b1eb5e249311dd18126f.jpeg

 

I attempted to take a photo of the lighting at a lower voltage but it doesn’t show well on camera

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The micro connections arrived today and they are indeed ‘micro’ perhaps I should have looked for ‘mini’ instead

 

They would be okay for the lighting but I’m not confident they would be suitable for the smoke generator 

 

So as not to hold up progress (as painfully slow as it is) I’ve decided to terminate the lighting and smoke generator under the baseboard using chocolate-block connectors instead, after all it’s not an exhibition layout

 

I’ve sprayed up the gutters and downpipes so I’m nearly there now

 

Fingers crossed I’ll have it finished by the weekend and I’ll be able to make a start on the engine shed

 

It’s a hobby and I’m in no rush but I’m sure everyone is sick of seeing every single step of the pump house build

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On 13/08/2019 at 05:44, chuffinghell said:

But I think I need to go lower

How low can you go?????

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Posted (edited)
28 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

How low can you go?????

 

I can adjust the voltage as low as 2.5v, the photo make the lights look brighter and whiter than they actually are.....no doubt the limitations of an iPhone camera

CC616D59-3111-4C1C-A8DA-7E3C590B5DC2.jpeg.60da3def85d5a9dc4e1bc97239037327.jpeg

 

A9C7E020-A0E0-46FD-A105-74990EE0405B.jpeg.04758760b038e22c8e5bed4afb23f1c8.jpeg

 

Unless you’re asking about my limbo dance abilities? in which case.....not very low at all

 

 

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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How did you get the model 3d printed? Is that Shapeways, or your own resin printer? 

 

J

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Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, Julia said:

 

How did you get the model 3d printed? Is that Shapeways, or your own resin printer? 

 

J

 

I don’t have my own printer unfortunately so I uploaded my design to Shapeways

 

Despite their prices appearing to have increased quite a bit of late I can’t justify buying my own printer, I’m not sure I’d achieve the same print quality with a home printer

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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15 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

 

I don’t have my own printer unfortunately so I uploaded my design to Shapeways

 

Despite their prices appearing to have increased quite a bit of late I can’t justify buying my own printer, I’m not sure I’d achieve the same print quality with a home printer

 

 

I still model mostly in card and paper, Chris, but very impressed with the quality of 3D printed models. If I went down this route, I would probably also get a company like Shapeways to do the  3D printing . Do you mind me asking, what software you use for your designs?

 

Marlyn

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16 minutes ago, Marly51 said:

 

I still model mostly in card and paper, Chris, but very impressed with the quality of 3D printed models. If I went down this route, I would probably also get a company like Shapeways to do the  3D printing . Do you mind me asking, what software you use for your designs?

 

Marlyn

 

Hi Marlyn

 

Thank you

 

I don't mind at all, I use a web based software called Tinker Cad by AutoDesk (makers of AutoCAD)

 

If you type tinkercad into Google (other search engines are available) its usually top of the list

 

It’s very basic but its free to use and nothing to download

 

On larger designs such as buildings it does tend to go slow but I found it a good place to start

 

Chris

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Thanks Chris, I might give it a try with something small to begin with!

 

Marlyn

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1 hour ago, Marly51 said:

Thanks Chris, I might give it a try with something small to begin with!

 

Marlyn

 

Thats how I started drawing up a couple of GWR Pannier tool boxes 

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Posted (edited)

I’ve used glue and glaze to do the windows and it looks like old hand made glass which appears to suit the building.....well that’s what I’m going to say to convince everyone including myself :rolleyes:

 

And with the interior lights on there is quite a nice effect

 

75BCF2E4-AF1A-4578-8970-F6858B6957DD.jpeg.06087b6e48a6fdb4ccb565d5c1b3a9d0.jpeg

 

the addition of an interior light was a last minute decision, there is a slight bleed of light through the gaps where the roof joints and through the mortar  gaps where the material is thinner but that’s easily fixed

2AD88C64-588A-4843-AEF2-66C443994BAE.jpeg

45F53858-B84E-4F3A-B251-DFF77C1CC67A.jpeg

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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Posted (edited)

Gutters and downpipes sprayed and awaiting weathered before being attached

 

I’ve just got to fight the temptation to attach them while the paint is still drying

 

I’m terrible at waiting for paint to dry :blink:

 

F7C642E8-4E99-4816-9A2F-CCBF5865DEC7.jpeg

 

So once they’re fitted everyone can breathe a sigh of relief knowing that there will be no more bl**dly pump house photos :laugh_mini2:

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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