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Light bleed has been sorted, I used a syringe and ‘sucked up’ some polyfilla, attached a small nozzle and managed to fill the gap all the way around the roof inside

9860D76B-B719-4208-8F56-BF9B93BACF23.jpeg.1689310f97f9b2f9673e8d464d0fc957.jpeg

 

Then a heavy application of black enamel inside (looks like a teenagers bedroom)

6CF2E391-D246-41A9-961D-0F76F4FAD9E6.jpeg.59af36ed1e620d9b58a80ca018a4e747.jpeg

 

Result, no light bleed....happy days

43D93D9F-BE2A-4FED-AC7B-C42FF9DF9C94.jpeg.eb2aa06ccd69a1c7e155909b57255a0d.jpeg

Edited by chuffinghell
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I'm still not 100% convinced about the glazing, I've tried to convince myself that it looks like hand blown bullseye glass

 

I have some windows left so I'll have a few attempts to see if I can do a better job

 

@RedgateModels used glue n glaze on an O gauge Pug with superb results so I suspect I've done something wrong

 

I'm wondering if I applied it too thickly?

 

Or just redo them using clear plastic sheet?

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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On 11/08/2019 at 17:30, Stubby47 said:

I can't smell any difference.

Its a scratch and sniff video.

 

Lovely work on the boiler house Chris. I was also wondering - but presume the smoke/vapour/fumes from the smoke generator is safe? I have a few industries on my layout but with all their chimneys belching smoke my room would be filled with a very realistic pea-souper in no time.

Edited by Martin S-C
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2 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I'm still not 100% convinced about the glazing, I'm wondering if I applied it too thickly?

 

I have some windows left so I'll have a few attempts to see if I can do a better job

 

@RedgateModels used it to glaze an O gauge Pug with superb results so I suspect I've done something wrong

 

Or just redo them using clear plastic sheet?

 

Maybe used too much, the panes are small - you only need enough to just form a skin over the opening

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2 minutes ago, RedgateModels said:

 

Maybe used too much, the panes are small - you only need enough to just form a skin over the opening

 

Thank you, I suspected as much

 

I'll have another go on the left over windows and if I get better results I'll replace them

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On 15/08/2019 at 13:50, Julia said:

 

 

Do you have a close up of the windows so we can see what you mean?

 

J

 

They look like glass wall bricks instead of glass panes

 

BEDD8C69-2442-4360-AC37-4146A20BC044.jpeg

Edited by chuffinghell
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Yeah, agreed. I don't think they are that bad. Perhaps its a wee bit on the generous side but I also think a bit of grime will hide any fetaures you're not happy with - I should think your average pump house window panes were a universal opaque mid-grey colour anyway!

 

Removing one to represent a breakage or an act of impromptu ventilation might add to the model.

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1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

Not sure I'd be confident enough to weather window glazing

 

I'm liable to go too far and end up with limo tint (don't really want a pimped out pump house)

Better than a pumped out pimp house...

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Confession time

 

I just wasn’t happy with the glazing. Its a nice effect but it looks more like glass wall blocks or the bottom of a jam jar than panes of glass

 

so after several attempts at applying the glue n’ glaze as thin as possible I’ve given up

 

I tried to apply a very thin film but when I came back to it there were pin holes and some had ‘popped’ completely 

 

So I’ve accepted defeat and gone for clear plastic instead, sprayed with Matt varnish on the inside to create an opaque effect but still retaining the reflective glass like exterior

 

I'm happier with this

1EA79341-3942-4533-BCE9-C800042A1234.jpeg

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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8 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

Certainly does look better, Chris. Well worth the effort to replace the frames and re-glaze.

 

Thank you

 

I definitely prefer it like this which is the main thing

 

And @Martin S-C‘s observation of industrial glass being opaque looks better with the light on

 

I’ll look at further weathering individual panes on a spare window

27F7E8D8-D4FE-4DAA-AEB4-C67FB708E1C5.jpeg

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1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

Confession time

 

I just wasn’t happy with the glazing. Its a nice effect but it looks more like glass wall blocks or the bottom of a jam jar than panes of glass

 

so after several attempts at applying the glue n’ glaze thinner I’ve given up

 

I tried to apply a thinner film but when I came back to it there were pin holes and some had ‘popped’ completely 

 

So I’ve accepted defeat and gone for clear plastic instead, sprayed with Matt varnish on the inside to create an opaque effect but still retaining the reflective glass like exterior

 

I'm happier with this

1EA79341-3942-4533-BCE9-C800042A1234.jpeg

Much better in my limited experience mate.

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15 hours ago, Rowsley17D said:

Certainly does look better, Chris. Well worth the effort to replace the frames and re-glaze.

 

Thank you

 

fortunately I attached the original window frames with a spot of glue in each corner so they popped out quite easily without causing any damage

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As my back is a little better today I’ve decided to do a little wiring (not my favourite part of the hobby but an important one)

 

As I’ve now decided to put exterior lighting in the engine shed I needed to add an extra two wires to the baseboard connector

 

These screw terminal connects are great! Very simple matter of changing the 5-way

845C0EF9-1048-47CC-B63D-3ECF5B4986BE.jpeg.e5aa7cdcb4cf03dd2bfca0cf98a85fd6.jpeg

 

to a 7-way

B0A08FA7-E4CA-4B75-B0B4-F2DE31E413B2.jpeg.8c07536a48843d2f24d36ed3c5042ce1.jpeg

 

The assembly came as a 12way block so fortunately I’d got 7-way left

75EDC179-CBEE-40F9-97EB-42C7FF38EBF3.jpeg.c71a840b8e0e1d11e1b55a03f25e31de.jpeg

 

 

I’ve also used screw terminal blocks though out, I’m not a fan of scotch locks I don’t find them very reliable (person opinion from experience) the benefit of terminal blocks only becomes apparent when you need to change the wiring

0236D24B-5EFD-4747-A695-C7D97A34D26B.jpeg.e713f37f4aeb73cecfa8374701e0649e.jpeg

 

No doubt my back will be aching this evening after spending this afternoon crouched under the baseboard

 

I don’t like wiring, at the end of the day it doesn’t look like you’ve done anything :rolleyes:

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Now the pump house has been finished (finally) and I've done a little more wiring I've moved my attention to the engine shed

 

My original idea was to have the engine shed simply sitting on top of the concrete base, however having placed it in position it just doesn't look right

 

So I'm considering cutting and carving up the base so the engine shed sits around it, with the underside of the shed the same level as the ballast

 

Making a few cuts alone the red lines

engine shed base mod.PNG

 

An easier way to do it would be to gradually build up the level of the ballast maybe and/or disguise the base with foliage  

Edited by chuffinghell
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I’ve been thinking about this all day at work

 

when I got home I put the pump house on the base and it didn’t look too bad

A2436292-DB8F-4CB5-89F6-F93D9E86C23F.jpeg.67a36445a5b402a3e9871609c09ac046.jpeg

 

I’m beginning to wonder if it looked worse last night because

 

a) I was tired and grumpy

or

b) because the shed is only in its base grey colour, hard to believe the pump house started in this colour

498CF357-40C7-4B36-B11E-9DB96420EA27.jpeg.249f6f132798df1936c15206556a65ed.jpeg

 

At the moment I don’t have any foliage material so I tore up a scouring pad just to see how it could look with foliage

F9ED9403-9E79-4230-9242-99471363E362.jpeg.d3d6cf45bc00c343f3f6452c94e35e15.jpeg

 

I’ve made a start on the engine shed, I painted the whole lot in white primer then masked up the inside and sprayed the outside grey the following day

 

I'm tempted to paint the bottom few courses inside with a weathered black before dirtying up the whole inside but I’m still undecided on that

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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After consulting with whom I would consider a master flocker @Andrew P he suggested just adding flock/grass in patches.....and he’s quite right, you only have to look at his layouts to know this

 

To be honest using flock or static grass around the whole perimeter of the engine shed to disguise the base just didn’t seem like the right thing to do, almost a bit of a cop out

 

Looking a photos you don’t see the foundations on older buildings as it’s usually below the ballast level 

 

So sometimes you just have to be brave and get your craft knife out

 

Hacked at the base to the internal dimensions of the shed

4EFBC85C-5C50-4DAE-89A1-D2C0C03964B0.jpeg

 

Added some 1.5mm strips (these will go all round)

B93D3B63-A929-4DD8-8CEA-F2AFB940307A.jpeg

 

The strips allow the shed to sit just below the ballast level

045D2F06-A092-4D17-B571-8A6E375C87AD.jpeg

9BD2EAAC-BC6D-4A8E-AE42-62E007297977.jpeg

 

Its turned out surprisingly well 

Edited by chuffinghell
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1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

After consulting with whom I would consider a master flocker @Andrew P he suggested just adding flock/grass in patches.....and he’s quite right, you only have to look at his layouts to know this

 

To be honest using flock or static grass around the whole perimeter of the engine shed to disguise the base just didn’t seem like the right thing to do, almost a bit of a cop out

 

Looking a photos you don’t see the foundations on older buildings as it’s usually below the ballast level 

 

So sometimes you just have to be brave and get your craft knife out

 

 

 

 

4EFBC85C-5C50-4DAE-89A1-D2C0C03964B0.jpeg

B93D3B63-A929-4DD8-8CEA-F2AFB940307A.jpeg

045D2F06-A092-4D17-B571-8A6E375C87AD.jpeg

9BD2EAAC-BC6D-4A8E-AE42-62E007297977.jpeg

Very good Chris, but I can't take all the credit as I probably nicked the idea from someone else, probably on here somewhere, haha.

 

All the best.

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