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  • RMweb Gold
22 minutes ago, Graham T said:

I've no idea Chris, but my gut feeling is that it would be all black.

 

18 minutes ago, 57xx said:

I don't know for sure either but I have the same gut feeling. I would expect the white on a signal ladder is to contrast it against the black lower part of the signal post. As the water tower is in stone, you probably wouldn't need that.


I thought so too which is great because it means I can glue it in place sooner

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  • RMweb Gold
9 minutes ago, Gopher said:

Lovely job Chris, I like the subtle weathering.  You are a talented man


thank you, I always feel I’ve gone to far with weathering as it’s sometimes difficult to stop 

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  • RMweb Gold

We all love ballasting!…..don’t we? :no2:

 

I didn’t quite know what to do at the join so I clamped up the end piece with some grease proof paper sandwiched between them, hopefully it will work.?

 

1F04CAB8-E63F-4E22-A194-73AE180102A3.jpeg.73182d9cca83bf3d6d7924c135ebccf1.jpeg
 

I don’t know how you’re supposed to ballast over a join so I’ve done what I thought might work, I suspect the height of ballast won’t be the same but I’ll come back to that

 

Just need to keep my fingers crossed and check it in the morning

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  • RMweb Gold

The ballast looks great Chris! 

 

Regarding the ladder, I think black is correct. A lot of things were painted white during the war because of blackouts, so being pre-war, wouldn't be on Warren. 

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  • RMweb Gold

Looks like grease proof paper did the trick, nothing has stuck to it, had it stuck I intended to apply a wax as a release agent but it looks like I don’t need too

 

CC2CED39-D267-48EF-A12E-8D9BEA963BD2.jpeg.38bd2dae2940c1936e62cf54fd9c0df0.jpeg
 

not a bad joint but I suppose joints are unavoidable when you have removable sections, possibly easier to disguise on the scenic section at the front

 

5E8BBEC2-5792-46F0-9000-DAA2061908F5.jpeg.f97b278dae513be2ec6c4d0e6ababe42.jpeg

 

It just needs blending in with the existing ballast once I’ve done


The track in the foreground looks like it’s miss aligned but it must be an optical illusion from the photo angle (or because one side is cleaner than the other?) rolling stock glides over it without knocking or bumping

 

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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"Looks like grease proof paper did the trick,"

 

Seems to have worked a treat, it looks good to me.

 

The tip I saw was to use cling film, it is more flexible so should give a slightly irregular edge so disguising the join even more. Also it is see through so easier to line up the ballast levels.

 

Keep up the good work, I really enjoy your thread, excellent modelling and a thorough explanation of how you do things.

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  • RMweb Gold
57 minutes ago, simonmcp said:

"Looks like grease proof paper did the trick,"

 

Seems to have worked a treat, it looks good to me.

 

The tip I saw was to use cling film, it is more flexible so should give a slightly irregular edge so disguising the join even more. Also it is see through so easier to line up the ballast levels.

 

Keep up the good work, I really enjoy your thread, excellent modelling and a thorough explanation of how you do things.


I never considered cling film I just thought grease proof paper would be a little easier to use being almost self supporting when clamped between the two halves……also taking cling film of the roll usually results in profanity :lol:

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  • RMweb Gold

ideally I’ll like to ballast the left hand half of the layout that’s virtually done and ballast the rest once I’ve laid and wired the goods yard end but what I’ve found is if I ballast in sections I get visible patches (colour variation)

 

I use Peco weathered brown/buff ballast in combination with delux materials ballast bond, could it be that getting a little of the ballast adhesive on ballast already done causes the patchy/colour change?

 

Has anyone else has experienced or just me?

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  • RMweb Gold

I’ve applied a little sleeper grime over the edge of the sleepers just bleeding into the ballast and attempt to blend the ballast between the two halves

 

735B2C54-6C45-4662-B4F7-9BD1DDD9BDF4.jpeg.78556cd319156f5e1267b821bded7e4e.jpeg

 

it’s less of a defined join (even though you can obviously see the split line)

 

I think I’ve maybe gone a bit OTT so I might have to try and lighten it a little? But I don’t really know how too without spoiling what I’ve done :scratchhead:

 

I’m particularly pleased that my point rods still line up…..


81A43E91-7A6D-4734-A6A0-8C74C9D0B84F.jpeg.2d6433c7af7b6a4db3475bf2c3e13166.jpeg

 

…..sort of, probably about 0.25mm out :scratchhead::lol:

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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2 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I’ve lightly applied a little sleeper grime over the edge of the sleepers just bleeding into the ballast and attempt to blend the ballast between the two halves

 

0654D6ED-5760-4CDB-9222-CC680757E47D.jpeg.3ec0ba16d8f6748c38f59c1b6d2d1b7b.jpeg
 

it’s less of a defined join (even though you can obviously see the split line)

 

I might have to try and lighten it a little, depending on how it drys

 

I’m particularly pleased that my point rods still line up…..


81A43E91-7A6D-4734-A6A0-8C74C9D0B84F.jpeg.2d6433c7af7b6a4db3475bf2c3e13166.jpeg

 

…..sort of, probably about 0.25mm out :scratchhead::lol:

 

We won't tell anyone if you don't. :jester:

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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, Waraqah said:

We won't tell anyone if you don't. :jester:

 
You can’t tell from normal operating distance and I quite like how the solution works


I couldn’t think of any other way to cross a baseboard joint with point rodding other that cut the brackets in half so it was supported on each side.

 

Its actually two brackets because if I’d simply cut one in half it would have looked odd put back together (taking into account the knife/saw cut width) if that makes sense

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

because I’d already ballasted the removable section some time ago the new ballast stuck out like a sore thumb

 

5DC6029B-B549-44B6-B1B0-B718AD56927D.jpeg.5c47266112c5c25b606ab8de71c9154f.jpeg

 

So I tried to blend it with my airbrush but to be honest, I wasn’t happy with what I’d done

 

4484C18E-D6BF-487F-8E30-DE119A16A980.jpeg.84f05e577d4446ff487d13a7422bafd8.jpeg
 

In an effort to blend the two together I was too heavy handed with the airbrush.

 

So instead of getting all annoyed with myself I took a step back and this evening I wondered if dry brushing would help, I was a little worried about doing this as dry brushing isn’t a technique I’ve used (or considered) before

 

Anyway using various colours using beige as a base I ended up with this


606E8365-8ECE-4089-8805-ECC219FCE7BF.jpeg.8dad85a9e11338635d2a1e3b79cc0553.jpeg

 

Still not sure about it though

 

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  • RMweb Gold
15 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

Just spread more coal dust around...

 

It's possibly too clean there anyway.


I’d considered that but I wasn’t sure just how far coal dust would travel beyond the coaling stage :blush: I imagine it would have gotten trodden about 

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  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Stubby47 said:

Just spread more coal dust around...

 

It's possibly too clean there anyway.


more?….


8D3B3887-7557-4262-B641-A2E67177AF13.jpeg.8d622f54adef20987084763090f07288.jpeg
 

….the problem with weathering powders on ballast is it’s easy to add but virtually impossible to remove

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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47 minutes ago, Ponthir28 said:

From my old and distant memory every thing was pretty black and oily. In the sixties.

If you can remember the sixties, you weren't there. Obviously a rocker, not a mod! :jester:

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27 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:


more?….


8D3B3887-7557-4262-B641-A2E67177AF13.jpeg.8d622f54adef20987084763090f07288.jpeg
 

….the problem with weathering powders on ballast is it’s easy to add but virtually impossible to remove

 

 

Chris, it looks like the area is in shadow, so it's hard to really say how the tones look.  Could you get a pic from a different angle?

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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, Graham T said:

 

Chris, it looks like the area is in shadow, so it's hard to really say how the tones look.  Could you get a pic from a different angle?

 

ED05D5A5-9440-4741-AD4A-C267C78F2957.jpeg.37abd4fb8aaad7f9c58a506bb8bcd88f.jpeg
 

FFEE6825-11D2-4DD4-84A5-99D2F42D7D51.jpeg.d679788a702509687d461cb0fc80bed5.jpeg

 

00747E25-634D-4FA1-A517-AAB87815277B.jpeg.09b63c5d40dd816a41e6120a60a34c57.jpeg

 

 

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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10 hours ago, chuffinghell said:


I’d considered that but I wasn’t sure just how far coal dust would travel beyond the coaling stage :blush: I imagine it would have gotten trodden about 

Everywhere plus it would be different shades as well.

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  • RMweb Gold

The photos from the differing angles show that you've not used too much to my eyes. I'd say with Stubby that it's still too clean anyway for the 60s (or even the 30s) unless it's been recently re-ballasted and I doubt they would redo that area anyway, it would be mainly mud and ash.

 

Here's my coaling area for the moment.

 

DSCF8403.JPG.284ecb4bb1b7c136f9428e9690d0ff56.JPG

 

DSCF8404.JPG.9cc39e1270ce479c0d27d572278897c2.JPG

 

 

 

 

Edited by Rowsley17D
Confusing time periods. Chuff is modelling 30s
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  • RMweb Gold
5 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

I'd say with Stubby that it's still too clean anyway for the 60s

 

 


what about for the mid 30’s?

 

Not quite sure where the reference to the 60’s has come from unless I’ve made a massive error somewhere :blink:

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