Jump to content

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, Andrew P said:

Damage will always occur when trying to un stick anything you need to reserve, but the insertion of a good corner Gusset never hurt anybody.:good:

 

If using a Bulb I tend to make up a form of Gantry using Rail, and that keeps the Bulb away from Plastic etc as a lot of heat will be caused.

 

You can also get Yellow LED's for a more realistic Steam era glow.

 

I did too good a job of attaching the roof but other than requiring a re-paint the roof sections have survived the demolition

 

I had to use gussets to pull it back square but they have added strength

 

I would only be powering bulbs at about 3v so hopefully they wouldn't generate as much heat, I had thought of housing them in an aluminium tube thinking the aluminium would dissipate the heat?

 

I do have some yellow LEDs but they just look too yellow for my liking, I've ordered some 'diffused soft white' LEDs to see if they are any better

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I've always understood gas lamps to burn yellow.   It might pay, though to look into what color the gas actually burns.   I think color might have something to do with the filaments, too.

 

LEDs are odd to me.    I think, as they do not generate heat, you may be able to play around with translucent paints over the white LED to get the color you want.

  • Agree 1
  • Informative/Useful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, AlfaZagato said:

you may be able to play around with translucent paints over the white LED to get the color you want.

 

Yep, I've painted LEDs with normal Humbrol Acrylics before, Matt Sand gives an orangey yellow, or Matt Tan for a whiter but still diffused colour. You can even paint the majority of the LED in Matt Black and just leave the lens showing, to reduce the light output.

 

Al.

  • Like 1
  • Agree 2
  • Informative/Useful 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Alister_G said:

 

Yep, I've painted LEDs with normal Humbrol Acrylics before, Matt Sand gives an orangey yellow, or Matt Tan for a whiter but still diffused colour. You can even paint the majority of the LED in Matt Black and just leave the lens showing, to reduce the light output.

 

Al.

I did the same after watching your results on Bakewell Al.:good:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The false ceilings are in.....

97342A82-7E16-49B3-8E0E-A77EB660DCD3.jpeg.d99e51b742bbbe39027a9ca9d6cccf0b.jpeg
 

.....and the partitions

FF32AF87-2DA3-4E1D-8A16-5A683CFB2BE3.jpeg.2795e50f58e23d2255ed200cdd6e4004.jpeg

 

I’m thinking of lighting the bottom left of the station masters house, the booking office and the waiting

 

I'm not going to light the upper floor or lower left of the station masters house

 

I’m also thinking of not lighting the station masters office, He is either in his house or elsewhere on the platform maybe?

 

I’ve drilled a hole though to the gents to light up the loo too

502CEF69-CEFA-4071-A961-4DC4C4F25B8B.jpeg.c113269d79de21324c2b4d68f4cffc31.jpeg
 

Thoughts anyone (but be gentle :lol:)

  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm very impressed at how neat everything is, the insides of my buildings are hidden for a reason!

 

I agree with your choices, you'll really only want a very dim light in the gents though.

 

Al.

  • Agree 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

I'm very impressed at how neat everything is, the insides of my buildings are hidden for a reason!

 

I agree with your choices, you'll really only want a very dim light in the gents though.

 

Al.

 

It’s not intentionally neat but thank you

 

I won’t be quite as neat once I’ve run black gasket sealant around the edges of the ceilings and partitions to reduce any light bleed

 

I’d hoped I’d chosen the correct ‘rooms’ to light. I just hope it doesn’t look pants with some lit and others not

 

I’ve ordered some resisters of various sizes to experiment with the brightness

 

I wondered if the light from the waiting room alone would be enough to sneak it’s way through the hole I’ve drilled? again I’ll experiment

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, Alister_G said:

 

............You can even paint the majority of the LED in Matt Black and just leave the lens showing, to reduce the light output.

 

Al.

 

I'm going to glue short lengths of tube through holes in the 'ceiling' to hold the LEDs with just the lens showing which I assume would have a similar effect?

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now I did say that I’d make a mess on the inside with silicone

29225F70-1D40-4B67-85F9-917FE27DABDB.jpeg.15a13abed9ce66ab1a0b5c21695647ad.jpeg

 

So not wanting to disappoint

750E3204-54EA-41E6-B71D-776AC54C35FC.jpeg.cc710e084dd6e6746bd3013aa09d0286.jpeg

 

It works a treat in sealing any gaps and stoping light bleeding through

630B97DB-E6E0-4157-A607-8B4D07781D4A.jpeg.dd77c91856a18a3a7f10494eb1bc4305.jpeg
 

Placed over my 18v torch and no light bleed on the ‘room’ that’s been sealed....happy days

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice to see your drug paraphernalia in the first photo...

 

That's very effective. Do you get any bleed through on the external walls?

 

Al.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

Nice to see your drug paraphernalia in the first photo...

 

EDFCC0FE-5B8B-4C14-9501-FA8DB0628428.jpeg.d880ec65f9ba357d3e921f8f4e4593e1.jpeg
:laugh_mini: I purchased a shed load of ebay to mix up paint by ml instead of drops

 

31 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

That's very effective. Do you get any bleed through on the external walls?


Yes and No

 

Yes if the LED is on full brightness light bleeds through the mortar lines where the plastic is thinner but I found with the pump house that a thick coat of black enamel on the inside helps to alleviate the problem

 

No if the LED is dimmed

 

This is with one resistor

D93E6A71-843E-414C-856D-A2F1192D663B.jpeg.1e44398e99723e6beab16ac47ada9c77.jpeg

 

This is with three resistors in series

964717C8-67B8-4436-9FA7-11DDF222416F.jpeg.59700936d0506bb822e882c04e794a2c.jpeg


 

Edited by chuffinghell
Spelling correction
  • Like 5
  • Informative/Useful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The three-resistors looks about right for electric light, maybe could go a little bit dimmer for gas?

 

Al.

  • Agree 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

The three-resistors looks about right for electric light, maybe could go a little bit dimmer for gas?

 

Al.


Agreed, I’ve order some more of higher resistance

 

The loo is definitely too bright :lol:
 

 

350FB4AF-E9F4-46CF-934D-19411F3E88B9.jpeg
 

I don’t really understand LEDs and electrickery so I prefer grain of wheat bulbs via a potentiometer but they can get hot and impossible to replace if/when they blow

Edited by chuffinghell
  • Like 2
  • Agree 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

The three-resistors looks about right for electric light, maybe could go a little bit dimmer for gas?

 

Al.


In all fairness the look quite a bit brighter on camera than in reality

 

If I cant figure out the correct  LEDs/resistor combination I might end up going back to what I know best (AKA normal bulbs( and hope for the best

  • Friendly/supportive 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Alister_G said:

The three-resistors looks about right for electric light, maybe could go a little bit dimmer for gas?

 

Al.


I’ve just checked and I’ve ordered

 

2k,3k and 4k resistors

 

the ones I have are 1k and when used in series 3x1k is equivalent to 1x3k

 

So I suspect I will be using the 4k at least

 

Had I experimented prior to ordering I wouldn’t have bothered with the 2 & 3k but I could still use combinations

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can still use a pot on LEDs you know, so long as you have a base resistor in series so you limit the maximum current available.

 

A quick and dirty calculation for using LEDs is supply voltage minus LED forward voltage divided by expected current draw.

 

Typical Red, Green, Orange, and Yellow LEDs have a forward voltage of approximately 2.0 volts; but White and Blue LEDs have a forward voltage value of 3.4 volts. Because of this variation the value of resistor value will vary depending on what the LED color is.

 

A useable average current draw is 10mA.

 

So based on a 12V supply, if we plug those numbers into the calculation we get (12-2) / 0.010 which equals a nice round 1000.

So for a single Red, Green, Orange, and Yellow LEDs a 1K resistor will do.

 

If we do the same calculation with White or Blue LEDs we get (12 - 3.4) / 0.010 = 860. You could try to find an 860 Ohm resistor, or you could just not bother, and use a 1K for that, too.

 

EDIT: those figures above are for the LEDs at maximum brightness, obviously, to dim them further you just add more Ohms.

 

If you then shove a 2.2K pot in series, that should give you sufficient dimmage.

 

If you're using multiple LEDs in parallel, then you sum the current required, so for five White LEDs in parallel, the calculation works out at (12 - 3.4) / 0.050 = 172, so a 200 Ohm resistor would be fine, but you would need to up the wattage of the resistor to cope with the higher current.

 

 

 

Al.

Edited by Alister_G
  • Informative/Useful 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Alister_G said:

You can still use a pot on LEDs you know, so long as you have a base resistor in series so you limit the maximum current available.

 

A quick and dirty calculation for using LEDs is supply voltage minus LED forward voltage divided by expected current draw.

 

Typical Red, Green, Orange, and Yellow LEDs have a forward voltage of approximately 2.0 volts; but White and Blue LEDs have a forward voltage value of 3.4 volts. Because of this variation the value of resistor value will vary depending on what the LED color is.

 

A useable average current draw is 10mA.

 

So based on a 12V supply, if we plug those numbers into the calculation we get (12-2) / 0.010 which equals a nice round 1000.

So for a single Red, Green, Orange, and Yellow LEDs a 1K resistor will do.

 

If we do the same calculation with White or Blue LEDs we get (12 - 3.4) / 0.010 = 860. You could try to find an 860 Ohm resistor, or you could just not bother, and use a 1K for that, too.

 

EDIT: those figures above are for the LEDs at maximum brightness, obviously, to dim them further you just add more Ohms.

 

If you then shove a 2.2K pot in series, that should give you sufficient dimmage.

 

If you're using multiple LEDs in parallel, then you sum the current required, so for five White LEDs in parallel, the calculation works out at (12 - 3.4) / 0.050 = 172, so a 200 Ohm resistor would be fine, but you would need to up the wattage of the resistor to cope with the higher current.

 

 

 

Al.


Thank you very much Al

 

I stupidly didn’t realise that reducing the input voltage made a difference with LEDs I don’t know why I thought that?

 

I just rigged one up to my potentiometer with just one 1k resistor and I can adjust the brightness the same as with a bulb

 

I'll just put a bigger resistor on the LED in the loo and wire all the lights in parallel and adjust the input voltage to suit

 

I genuinely didn’t realise it was that simple and the yellow LEDs aren’t as ‘harsh’ when they are dimmed

 

I can’t take a photo properly because I don’t know how to take photos with my iPhone without the LEDs looking 10x brighter than they actually are

 

1k @ 7volts

AE4468FA-9351-457D-A2C7-9BCEEC2A7E35.jpeg.8a1744b07ac3190f72241aaa1f2c0433.jpeg
1k @ 4volts

52705B9B-AF73-4008-B6C9-E7669CDA0D58.jpeg.a3de3aecd9d84f6fed6553244105b97c.jpeg

1k @ unknown voltage (gauge doesn’t read below 4volts)

8498F75E-24C6-4F01-8950-C7F52312ED89.jpeg.980ca12b313456610e26f33cfca4e719.jpeg

 

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's great, should work a treat.

 

Al.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you refit the roof, are you going to make it removable this time, e.g. adding triangular sections to fit just inside the walls for an inteference fit or thin strips of double-sided tape on the wall tops?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
27 minutes ago, teaky said:

When you refit the roof, are you going to make it removable this time, e.g. adding triangular sections to fit just inside the walls for an inteference fit or thin strips of double-sided tape on the wall tops?


I thought about gluing on magnets but I’ll probably use glue again as LEDs tend to be more reliable than bulbs (or so I’m told)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve glued in a box section to act as a conduit in the none-lit station masters office and mocked up potential wiring


9E9667A4-B607-4AE6-92FD-039A235376B1.jpeg.e1dc56acfaef26e8dec6683d800e324d.jpeg

 

AE5AB8F3-D446-43BB-8F7F-628236C92C35.jpeg.266e72886f72f995789d48d8e616c346.jpeg

 

CEBF9C43-2292-4434-A4FD-EF48C0589E5A.jpeg.66b25e73d9b0eacb54c3ce459d685924.jpeg

 

I realise this probably isn’t the right way to do it but it’s neat and means less danger of me melting anything with my soldering iron and less joints to fail that I wouldn’t be able to get to

 

I can just common them all up under the baseboard

 

It also means I could alter the brightness in each individual room if needs be

 

There is usually method in my madness

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Having slept on it I’ve decided to common up all the lights in the first floor of the station masters house using a chocolate block connector and have just one pair of wires to connect under the baseboard

 

Using a terminal block means I don’t have to worry about soldering in a confined space

 

Only the light in the gents needs to be reduced in brightness so I’ll do that with resistors

 

I’m making it up as I go, hence the change of plans

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the neatest I could do, I still have one more LED to make up

 

3E104586-55E5-4AB7-8562-D9515E44D0FA.jpeg.751705f0dadd386253d1c7e6ec0bc60e.jpeg
 

65DA64C0-939B-454D-A8CC-692E39C877CC.jpeg.1284b382b40493eec237514511c1dc6e.jpeg

 

F034400E-F2E2-416A-B26C-1AE959C3BCB6.jpeg.2b99c5610c2df0cbb628c131562cae48.jpeg

 

I’m going to put a false wall in front of the chocolate block connector just in case it can been seen through the windows in daylight

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just like to thank @Alister_G for explaining how to wire the LEDs in a way for my simple brain to understand

 

Cheers Al

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.