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  • RMweb Gold
29 minutes ago, sb67 said:

Hi Chris, did you use the downpipes that came with the kit? The house I'm building is the station house kit, which looks like it's got the same parts as your station and the downpipes are a bit bowed and hard to use, just wondered.

 

Steve.


Hi Steve,

 

Yes I used the down pipes from the kit, I think I’ve got some left over that are reasonably straight. If you PM me your address I can to send them to you in the post if you like?

 

Chris

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  • RMweb Gold

Not had a lot of free time this weekend but I’ve gotten around to glue on the advertising boards

 

339EF954-11D5-471B-B126-D35A0636249D.jpeg.04eced2601985a15ad8c51f2db98cff3.jpeg
 

And I’ve started to butcher a Wills kit into a low relief lamp hut to sit on the platform next to the station building

 

EBB36907-820B-4A5F-943D-840D313C5C42.jpeg.65aa49d717297242a7dd1a78f307f707.jpeg

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Not sure if I’ve over weathered but there are two in the kit so I can always have another go


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Low relief next to the Station building as is planned

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I should make some for of lock/latch for the door

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
Correction of poor grandma
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  • RMweb Gold
18 minutes ago, sb67 said:

That looks fine to me Chris. I think you've show good restraint there, everything I do with corrugated iron always end up covered in rust! 

 


I did karate kid weathering.............wipe on wipe off :lol:

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

I’ve managed to fashion some sort of lock/latch using the last of the styrene strip I used for the flashing on the chimneys. It’s looks okay from a distance

 

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Probably too much but

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Possibly OTT and as far from prototypical as you can get but it’s never stopped me before, plus I think it adds a bit of interest?

 

Perhaps the roof needs a touch of green maybe

 

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Perhaps a very light wash in the lower corrugations of a couple of shades of green, which only really show in the last few millimetres near the edges and the odd tiny dots of yellow on the upper surfaces to suggest the kind of lichens that grow on tarred tin rooves (and asbestos ones) I used artists acrylic for lichen, with streaks of dark green mixed deliberately badly into it, picking up a tiny dot at a time with a 000 brush, remembering that less is more though!

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  • RMweb Gold

After posting the photo I noticed the tall chimney was a few hundredths of a millimetre out of square :rolleyes: leaning to the left ever so slightly

 

this has since been addressed with a little gentle persuasion :lol:

 

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I’m such a fussy so and so, I annoy myself sometimes :unsure:

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

Well I’ve got to start somewhere, as it’s probably become apparent by now I don’t rush, in fact it could be described as painfully slow but I like to get things just right (if and where I can)


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There’s no rush, it’s a hobby and it keeps me sane (ish)

 

Plus I do have a tendency to over think with my planning :rolleyes:

 

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I’m sure I have it build this side of Christmas :lol:

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  • RMweb Gold

I am just glad you haven't a curved platform to build, Chris. I've ripped mine up as the top surface had faded despite blinds being down all the time. They were a touch high and the two Compounds' cylinders kept catching. As we are staying at the rectory for the duration, nothing will get done on the layout itself but I have brought back a number of wagons that need attention. 

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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, Rowsley17D said:

I am just glad you haven't a curved platform to build, Chris. I've ripped mine up as the top surface had faded despite blinds being down all the time. They were a touch high and the two Compounds' cylinders kept catching. As we are staying at the rectory for the duration, nothing will get done on the layout itself but I have brought back a number of wagons that need attention. 


Sorry to hear you’ve had to remove it, I’m sure you’ll be able to sort it once the layout build resumes.

 

I’m only doing a little here and there, although I’m having to stay at home from work I’m not going to be spending all my time on the layout (as much as I’d like too) I’ve got things around the house I’ve been asked to do :fie:

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

I’ve spent a bit of time carefully notching out a small piece of platform to sit at 90 degrees.....

3553AEC2-4D62-418B-911B-CAA10A0010F3.jpeg.025391bbbdc040d7832a715d1bd805cb.jpeg
 

.....to later realise I didn’t really need to take as much care for something you’ll never see

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:rolleyes:

 

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1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

I’ve spent a bit of time carefully notching out a small piece of platform to sit at 90 degrees.....

3553AEC2-4D62-418B-911B-CAA10A0010F3.jpeg.025391bbbdc040d7832a715d1bd805cb.jpeg
 

.....to later realise I didn’t really need to take as much care for something you’ll never see

61CDC8CA-5BEA-4783-87D9-C1902F3E1235.jpeg.d38c5fe0f34c7973af59d1fc23cbd8a2.jpeg

 

:rolleyes:

 

Good work here Chris...

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  • RMweb Gold
4 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

Lolly-pop-stick spacers. Is that the standard distance from platform edge to sleeper edge!?

 

Do you mean the ‘ACME platform distancing system’...patent pending? :jester:


I would imagine that ‘going by the book’ it’s not correct, however It gives me enough room to add the point rodding and aligns perfectly with the platform already attached to the removable section

 

Unfortunately once I’ve faced the edge with stone I will have to cut some plasticard spacers or sand down the sticks.....I mean the platform spacing system

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Hi Chris,

I've been following your build for a few weeks now and was curious where the platform kit has come from? Apologies if it's an obvious major brand, I'm a fairly new returnee to the hobby.

 

Many Thanks and love the layout,

Doug

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  • RMweb Gold
28 minutes ago, dougidle said:

Hi Chris,

I've been following your build for a few weeks now and was curious where the platform kit has come from? Apologies if it's an obvious major brand, I'm a fairly new returnee to the hobby.

 

Many Thanks and love the layout,

Doug


Hi Doug
 

No question is a bad question if you don’t know the answer.

 

The platform edging is by Peco (LK-61)

CC1B4489-B1D9-457B-8AED-BFA4BA14D2D3.jpeg.4973d8d08f49e20dadcd7c77b8465d02.jpeg

 

and I face it with Slaters embossed stone and the platform top is Slaters embossed paving

 

The Station building is also by Peco, a mashup of LK13 and LK15

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DD22FD40-0931-4978-8686-97E6A26C3F34.jpeg.353d840fffe03bdfebdd0d7f1b8e5695.jpeg

 

Chris

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold
26 minutes ago, dougidle said:

Thanks so much Chris. I'll look to use the platforms myself.

 

Cheers,

Doug


no problem after posting I remembered that Peco do a platform ‘kit’ that includes the same edging but also comes with the top and spacers (I just prefer to make my own)

 

ST-291

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The Spacers and tops have score lines in the underside to vary the widths based on Setrack geometry if that helps?

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  • RMweb Gold

I didn’t want an obvious break in the platform where the baseboard join is so (probably not right) I’m putting a vertical support at the edge to disguise the join

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I’m going to put several along the length, equally spaced which also means I don’t have to worry about joints in the embossed stone sheet (usually method in my madness.....but not always)

 

For those who are wondering why I’ve put cutouts in the spacers

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I'm planning on attaching some form of bus bar for the platform lamps. I’m tempted to use some left over track glued to the underside 

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1) I can glue the track directly to the underside of the platform top

2) Easier to solder to

3) Each Rail is already isolated from each other

4) Will add some much needed extra rigidity

5) Don’t have to buy anything :lol:

 

But it’s only a thought at this stage

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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