Coulsdon Works

[37Oban]

11 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Andy

 

I get that happen on my cut and shut efforts. When I go back and check everything I normally find it a 1/2mm here and 1/2mm there not the whole 2mm. If I have the spare bits make some replacements for those a little short or splice in thin bits of coach side hoping the filler will hide the error. On some coaches if only a millimeter short I make the other side to match and jiggle the roof and underframe so there is a little bit more than normal overhang, any more than 1mm it starts to show and bugs me.

Hi Andy,

 

when doing a "cut and shut" it's easy to forget to take into account the thickness of the razor saw blade used to make the cut.  If a lot of panels are cut the discepancy could easily account for a millimetre or two.  I know we are advised to always cut to the waste side of the line and gently file back to width, but when cutting panels no-one wants to waste any, so the temptation is to cut exactly along the line.

 

Roja

[thegreenhowards]

6 hours ago, 37Oban said:

Hi Andy,

 

when doing a "cut and shut" it's easy to forget to take into account the thickness of the razor saw blade used to make the cut.  If a lot of panels are cut the discepancy could easily account for a millimetre or two.  I know we are advised to always cut to the waste side of the line and gently file back to width, but when cutting panels no-one wants to waste any, so the temptation is to cut exactly along the line.

 

Roja

Hi Roja,

 

Thanks for that advice. I don't really get on with razor saws, so I score the sides with a knife and snap them apart. The Kirk sides come apart easily like that. I don't think that should create any wastage. If anything a little extra goes in because of the poly cement when gluing back together.

 

Anyway, on this side, it's more than one coach side used to donate the bits, so it's more a question of my diligence in following the diagram when gluing it all together. I often cheat a little and accept a mm or two discrepancy, if that means that I can use one part rather than two. But obviously in doing that, one needs to avoid repeating the discrepancies otherwise errors build up.

 

Anyway, I've made some progress with the side, so should have a further report later or tomorrow.

 

Andy

[thegreenhowards]

Some good progress with the d.16 today.  I decided that the long panelled section was too short so added in a longer section. Also the corridor side went together easily with only three pieces, so much neater.

 

The panelling was uneven after adding in the longer section, so I had to remove it all and replace with micro strip. Took the opportunity to do same horizontal bearing which didn’t quite line up as well. The left end looks a bit wonky but overall I think it’s coming together.

 

 

Andy

[Tony Teague]

I admire your patience and dedication!

[thegreenhowards]

Some progress on the Pullman Car conversion. I decided to paint all of the coach in the Humbrol Pullman cream colour which was made easy as the Precision Lanels meant there was no need for masking. So I went from this

 

to this

 

 

in about 10 minutes!

 

The under frame was not too bad apart from a lack of angle iron which I added using Kirk left overs and I’ve painted the interior. All it needs now is some minor touching up of the umber around the windows and some SE Finecast flush glazing.

 

I must do another of these!

 

Andy

[thegreenhowards]

Some progress with the D.16 RKB to report. I’ve done as much as I can in smoothing the sides out having applied 3 or 4 coats of filler primer and sanding back. I was starting to lose the crispness of the beading, so decided that I had to accept it as it is. The result is not perfect, but I think will be OK as a layout coach. It will clearly add some variety to the other catering coaches on my layout.

 

[davidw]

On 13/12/2019 at 10:08, thegreenhowards said:

Some progress on the Pullman Car conversion. I decided to paint all of the coach in the Humbrol Pullman cream colour which was made easy as the Precision Lanels meant there was no need for masking. So I went from this

 

to this

 

 

in about 10 minutes!

 

The under frame was not too bad apart from a lack of angle iron which I added using Kirk left overs and I’ve painted the interior. All it needs now is some minor touching up of the umber around the windows and some SE Finecast flush glazing.

 

I must do another of these!

 

Andy

That's very effective. I wonder if I should try somthing similar to that to match the 1928 Hornby cars to the Bachmann! 

[thegreenhowards]

45 minutes ago, davidw said:

That's very effective. I wonder if I should try somthing similar to that to match the 1928 Hornby cars to the Bachmann! 

That’s an idea if you can match the Bachman cream paint. However if you’re thinking of the super detailed Hornsby 1928 cars then you have a problem with the plastic ridges that they have moulded in on the lower body side panel which would need to be scraped off before you could put a Precision label over the top.

[thegreenhowards]

I’ve now completed the Pullman Car 107.

 

 

I’m quite please with the way it’s come out and I think it blends in quite well with the later super detailed cars. The main issues are the lack of working table lamps which is quite evident when running and the slightly higher ride height. Has anyone noticed this ride height difference and tackled it?

 

There were (at least) three cars like this - 105/6/7, all ECML stalwarts. I’m going to have a go at another one, but this time using a super detailed car. Watch this space.

 

You can see the carriage in action on my layout thread here:

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/149386-gresley-junction/&do=findComment&comment=3771140

 

Andy

 

 

Edited December 20, 2019 by thegreenhowards
Adding link

[The Fatadder]

A very nice looking Pullman.

I have a number of part finished Pullman rebuilds modelling the Orient Express, which have been sat awaiting paint for a very long time.  The thought of the lining always put me off!  Were the Precision panels a transfer or a self adhesive sticker?  

[davidw]

On 20/12/2019 at 08:25, thegreenhowards said:

I’ve now completed the Pullman Car 107.

 

 

I’m quite please with the way it’s come out and I think it blends in quite well with the later super detailed cars. The main issues are the lack of working table lamps which is quite evident when running and the slightly higher ride height. Has anyone noticed this ride height difference and tackled it?

 

There were (at least) three cars like this - 105/6/7, all ECML stalwarts. I’m going to have a go at another one, but this time using a super detailed car. Watch this space.

 

You can see the carriage in action on my layout thread here:

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/149386-gresley-junction/&do=findComment&comment=3771140

 

Andy

 

 

Excellent inspiring work.

[jrg1]

On 12/12/2019 at 02:51, thegreenhowards said:

Hi Roja,

 

Thanks for that advice. I don't really get on with razor saws, so I score the sides with a knife and snap them apart. The Kirk sides come apart easily like that. I don't think that should create any wastage. If anything a little extra goes in because of the poly cement when gluing back together.

 

Anyway, on this side, it's more than one coach side used to donate the bits, so it's more a question of my diligence in following the diagram when gluing it all together. I often cheat a little and accept a mm or two discrepancy, if that means that I can use one part rather than two. But obviously in doing that, one needs to avoid repeating the discrepancies otherwise errors build up.

 

Anyway, I've made some progress with the side, so should have a further report later or tomorrow.

 

Andy

Small discrepancies can be rectified with liquid filler-set the coach sides components up against a straight edge to the correct length, and brush in filler.  You may need a thin backing strip.

[thegreenhowards]

21 minutes ago, jrg1 said:

Small discrepancies can be rectified with liquid filler-set the coach sides components up against a straight edge to the correct length, and brush in filler.  You may need a thin backing strip.

Sounds interesting, I’ve never met liquid thinner. I use squadron Green or Deluxe Materials fine surface thinner, both of which are pastes. What brand do you recommend?

 

I do use a strip of 20 thou plasticard all down the inside of the coach side to give it some strength.

Edited December 30, 2019 by thegreenhowards

[jrg1]

23 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

Sounds interesting, I’ve never met liquid thinner. I use squadron Green or Deluxe Materials fine surface thinner, both of which are pastes. What brand do you recommend?

 

I do use a strip of 20 thou plasticard all down the inside of the coach side to give it some strength.

I have used a brush on filler by Tamiya, although you can chop up plastic sprue and dissolve it in liquid cement to give any consistency you want.

[thegreenhowards]

Christmas and keeping up with taking videos of Gresley Jn for that thread has slowed up my workbench progress a little, but I have now made some progress with the d.16 RKB. The basic structure is now complete and I’ve built the under frame according to what I can see on the photos, but I don’t claim that it’s 100% accurate. There’s was definitely a heavy duty bogie at the kitchen end (MJT) and a standard bogie at the other end (Bachmann).

 

The roof was the trickiest bit as none of the photos are definitive and some seem to show different vents to others. There were definitely some of the standard LNER oblong catering car vents and some photos seem to show a BR style round monsoon type vent. I’ve settled on the layout below, but it’s little more than educated guesswork I’m afraid.

 

Next up decals and glazing. Then glueing the roof on.

 

Any comments welcome.

 

Andy

[thegreenhowards]

A Tale of Two Horseboxes.

 

I haven’t done much rolling stock work recently because I’ve been so busy running trains and taking videos on Gresley Jn. However, I was away last week at a B&B and that means getting the soldering iron out. I managed to finish the structural work on my D&S LNER Diagram 4 horsebox. This was easily the most detailed kit I’ve ever built. It was fantastic in terms of how it all fitted together perfectly and the instructions are great, but it took a long time. I reckon it took me 12-15 hours which is quite a lot for one wagon.  

 

By contrast, I also built a Parkside diagram 5 horsebox just before Christmas. This was also a lovely model which went together very well as one expects from Parkside. Clearly not as detailed as the D&S kit, but it only took one evening in front of the telly, 2-3 hours in total.

 

Here they are:

 

 

They are both lovely kits, but as a fairly impatient modeller who likes to see results quickly, I think the Parkside one wins for me.

 

Next step is a good wash for the D&S kit and then priming tomorrow.

 

Andy

 

 

[thegreenhowards]

I’ve also just finished off weathering this Heljan Class 16. It’s my first attempt at weathering diesels as I think they’re rather more difficult than steam engines. But I’m quite pleased with the way it’s turned out.

 

It will now enter service on Gresley Jn on trip freights. I’m not sure I can justify it working onto the GN, let alone getting home again without breaking down(!), but it makes for a bit of variety, so I’m going to run it anyway.

 

 

 

[Clive Mortimore]

3 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

I’ve also just finished off weathering this Heljan Class 16. It’s my first attempt at weathering diesels as I think they’re rather more difficult than steam engines. But I’m quite pleased with the way it’s turned out.

 

It will now enter service on Gresley Jn on trip freights. I’m not sure I can justify it working onto the GN, let alone getting home again without breaking down(!), but it makes for a bit of variety, so I’m going to run it anyway.

 

 

 

I was once told by a Stratford driver that they would get you to where you were meant to go but not home. So the crews would try their best to fail them before leaving the depot.

[thegreenhowards]

As I mentioned over on Gresley Junction, when I was at the Stevenage show last weekend, I bought an Isinglass 3D printed resin kit for a Gresley D.307 steel twin artic TO. These are similar to the tourist stock twin artics but made from steel and there were only two of these built. Last night I got it out for a play. The body kit looks like this.

 

You also get an Isinglass drawing and some basic instructions. It all goes together very easily and no instructions are really necessary. The chassis just clips into the body and the bogies are designed to clip into mountings line on Hornby Gresley coaches and are interchangeable with Hornby’s. Provision is also made for MJT bogies if preferred. So after an hour or two in front of the telly, this is where I’ve got to.

 

 

This must be the easiest kit ever! I’ve tried Hornby bogies on the left hand end, and Isinglass for the others. The middle one is Heavy duty. I suspect the ride height is too high, so will need some filing, but other than that, I think it looks the part.  It’s very light so will need ballast. The chassis has the angle iron but no other detail, so I will add white metal MJT bits to give some ballast and then see what else is needed. 

 

One word of caution; the instructions tell you not to use a knife to clean up the bracing parts which have to be cut off, but instead to file them smooth. I got bored with filing so tried a knife and the window frame chipped (far left above) and will need filling. 

 

These kits are not cheap (£85 for the pair with under frame), but you get everything you need except for wheels, interior and under frame castings. So as a quick way of getting an esoteric piece of rolling stock for the layout, I think they’re fantastic. Although for those that like to measure value for money in kits in terms of £/ hour entertainment, they’re not quite so good!

 

Andy

Edited January 19, 2020 by thegreenhowards

[31A]

Looks good Andy, I was thinking of trying one of the Isinglass kits myself.  What did you use to glue it together?

 

[John Tomlinson]

I felt the same after seeing his stand at Peterborough. Interesting that the sides look quite thin, invaluable for modelling steel bodied stock and achieving reasonably flush looking glazing.

 

John.

[thegreenhowards]

21 minutes ago, 31A said:

Looks good Andy, I was thinking of trying one of the Isinglass kits myself.  What did you use to glue it together?

 

I used superglue as he recommends. It works very well and grabs almost immediately. I also tried the gel type superglue to give me slightly longer to adjust parts, but that didn’t seem to work. Luckily the fit is so good that you don’t need long to adjust things.

3 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

I felt the same after seeing his stand at Peterborough. Interesting that the sides look quite thin, invaluable for modelling steel bodied stock and achieving reasonably flush looking glazing.

 

John.

The sides have insets for the windows on the inside, so I think one is supposed to cut individual windows. Sounds fiddly! I’ll let you know how I get on.

 

Andy

[John Tomlinson]

Hi Andy, thanks for the clarification. Looking at your top picture carefully, I can see the insets. That's a good design I'd have thought, as it makes the main body of the kit thicker and so less fragile.

 

John.

[thegreenhowards]

37 minutes ago, John Tomlinson said:

Hi Andy, thanks for the clarification. Looking at your top picture carefully, I can see the insets. That's a good design I'd have thought, as it makes the main body of the kit thicker and so less fragile.

 

John.

Agreed. I don’t think you could get away with it being that thin all the way along.

[thegreenhowards]

I’ve had a few days of trying to fit decoders to kit built locos and finish off a few projects. So the operational loco stud for Gresley Jn has just increased significantly.

 

First, the kit built locos. These have all been purchased built from eBay or at shows but, as always, needed a bit of tweeting to get them running smoothly and sometimes a bit more tweaking to get them to run on DCC. 

60842. A Nucast V2 on a brass chassis with (whine free) portescap. It’s got ‘american’ pick ups, so I was worried about short circuits, but it seems very reliable. It’s missing front footsteps and I’m inclined to fit plastic ones for fear of short circuits. Does anyone know of a good source? I don’t really have a use for a NE V2, so she will become 60814 when I get round to it.

 

 

60052, Prince Palantine. DJH with Portescap (low whine). I had to redo the pickups as they were brass and not springy enough. Now with nickel silver she runs like a dream. I think I’ll keep her in ex works livery as the paint job is so good.

 

 

60513, Dante. This one had all the trimmings glued on, and they’ve been falling off with Monotonous regularity, but I’ve stuck or soldered (where possible) them back on. She's fitted with insulated drivers both sides and pick ups to all drivers - just what I like for DCC. Motor is a DJH GB1 mashima can and gearbox. Now runs very smoothly. Those who follow Gresley Junction will have already seen her in action.

 

60108, Gay Crusader, a KX regular. DJH kit. Fitted with DJH GB1 mashima can. This one has American style pick ups and runs well so far. Needs front foot steps (plastic I hope) and a smoke box door number, but has entered the operational fleet pending cosmetic finishing off.

 

Look out for them making their debuts on Gresley Jn over the next week or so.

 

Andy

 

 

Edited January 21, 2020 by thegreenhowards
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