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4 hours ago, jwealleans said:

Do the bogies pivot freely?   I've had instances where I've had to add a layer of etch under the presstud so the bogie cleared the underside of the solebar.

 

Hi Jonathan,

 

There's enough swing on them to happily negotiate Hornby 2nd radius points.

 

D154-11.jpg.369163a4da44297f56f82f160eff5632.jpg

 

@Headstock - Andrew I do agree that it's a touch high although the photos I have don't show the full brakes as low as yours. I'm going to try and drop it about 1mm to get the buffer height right, hopefully it will still be able to traverse 2nd radius after that as I have no doubt I'll be needing that sort of curve.

 

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I don't put a great deal of trust in manufactures to get things right for me. My bolster arrangement is quite simple, a block of laminated plasticard gives a nice broad bearing surface. The laminations, in combination with the availability of different thicknesses of plasticard, allow for infinite adjustability in ride height. Below is the arrangement on the BT (6), part of the 210 combo. A simple solution, that can be standardized across a whole range of carriages, to insure a consistent ride height on those needing it but also accommodating the variations found on the real thing.

 

 

dia 210 underframe.jpg

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31 minutes ago, Bucoops said:

 

Hi Jonathan,

 

There's enough swing on them to happily negotiate Hornby 2nd radius points.

 

D154-11.jpg.369163a4da44297f56f82f160eff5632.jpg

 

@Headstock - Andrew I do agree that it's a touch high although the photos I have don't show the full brakes as low as yours. I'm going to try and drop it about 1mm to get the buffer height right, hopefully it will still be able to traverse 2nd radius after that as I have no doubt I'll be needing that sort of curve.

 

 

Afternoon Bucoops,

 

I don't bother too much with trying to extrapolating measurements from photographs, the mind is easily mislead. There is about a 1 mm gap on my BG, perhaps half the distance on yours, perhaps a bit more. That is close enough to the  the GA numbers and measurements taken from the surviving underframe , plus bogies, of a GN Milk van, that was at the GCR some years ago. I have also done the same with the ex Royal train BG in the NRM. I'm sure you could reduce the ride height, it won't affect the minimum curve that you can negotiate. The main thing is, whatever you chose as ride height, standardise on that.

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9 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

Andy,

 

I think my floorpan is the same as yours, the big white thing in the middle pushed through from below and on the top side holds the nut used for the bolt that holds everything together. The lower part of the "big white thing" should just be below the two straight strips moulded either side closer to the solebar - with the whole thing right way up - I assume these are side stabilisers. So far so good.

 

My bogie top is not like yours. I have nothing above the top flat save the thin ring that is part of the moulding, and which is set roughly at the circumference of your top hat moulding. I glued a thin washer inside this ring to increase the area of flat surface in contact with the floorpan "big white thing", but this barely raises the height. I think I'll need another thin shim when all is finished just to ensure the bogies are clear of the solebars, I'll see how thick my paint ends up being.

 

Writing this I remember being in something of a quandry when I did it as the instructions aren't clear at all, and probably dry fitted the various options to see which looked best. It was a while since I did mine, and I'm wondering if I put the "top hat" in the other way after opening out the hole, although I suspect I didn't use it at all. Whatever, my bogie tops are near flat, with nothing other than the thin moulded ring present.

 

Coming back to your bogie top, I wonder if the top hat bit that sticks upwards actually sits inside the "big white thing", so that the main part of the bogie top is then rubbing on the main ring of the "big white thing". If it isn't this may explain why the distance between the bogies and floorpan is too much. Even if the "top hat" on the bogie sits inside the "big white thing" it may still be too high and be the effective rubbing point, causing the floorpan to rise further from the bogie.

 

Good luck!

 

John.

John,

 

Thanks for that, the top hat does fit into the hole on the big white thing on mine. But I’m wondering whether it should be either/ or.  I’ve been busy today so I’ll investigate tomorrow.
 

Andy

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10 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

This has turned out really well considering the mess you had as the starting point.

 

I'm guessing the "schoolboy error" is the trussing, which should be spaced evenly between the bogies, not centred on the coach body, and be a bit longer?

 

John.

Correct about the schoolboy error. There are witness marks on the underside, so I just glued the MJT white metal bits in place on the marks without engaging my brain. But the marks must have been for a standard 51ft vehicle. And I used my best gorilla glue epoxy which doesn’t come apart - doh!

 

 

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7 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Afternoon Bucoops,

 

I don't bother too much with trying to extrapolating measurements from photographs, the mind is easily mislead. There is about a 1 mm gap on my BG, perhaps half the distance on yours, perhaps a bit more. That is close enough to the  the GA numbers and measurements taken from the surviving underframe , plus bogies, of a GN Milk van, that was at the GCR some years ago. I have also done the same with the ex Royal train BG in the NRM. I'm sure you could reduce the ride height, it won't affect the minimum curve that you can negotiate. The main thing is, whatever you chose as ride height, standardise on that.

 

Hi Andrew, I'm using Bill Bedford's buffer height gauge as my master height setting device. This looks a bit better now I think?

 

1135055731_D154-12-lowered.jpg.e60097c260f0f7af0f2d5c5123f1dfe3.jpg

 

Changed the mounting plate from 3mm deep to 2mm.

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17 minutes ago, Bucoops said:

 

Hi Andrew, I'm using Bill Bedford's buffer height gauge as my master height setting device. This looks a bit better now I think?

 

1135055731_D154-12-lowered.jpg.e60097c260f0f7af0f2d5c5123f1dfe3.jpg

 

Changed the mounting plate from 3mm deep to 2mm.

 

Evening Bps,

 

very cool and aesthetically pleasing. I see that you've gone for the clipped buffers after all.

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10 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Evening Bps,

 

very cool and aesthetically pleasing. I see that you've gone for the clipped buffers after all.

 

Thanks Andrew :)Yes after re-reading the Isinglass drawing and with some assistance on the LNER society Facebook page it was concluded that it was the York built FIRST batch i.e. D111 that had the GNR style buffers. Later York built batches including D154 had the clipped top.

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Yesterday, I concentrated on getting Sun Castle ready for ‘heavy freight night‘ at our club where she hauled my Presflos and passed with flying colours. Here she is.

 

7CBC3E53-E292-42BC-B096-8A5484669FF8.jpeg.1411c20ee0643cc7d39d98026a4eac16.jpeg1A6DAA25-92FB-4843-9F5C-B65E0AE4BB5D.jpeg.9ab79276be9a3962c1ad9fdd7ee713c3.jpeg

 

I’m pleased with the way she’s come out so far. I still need to do weathering but that will wait until she’s run a bit and I’ve checked there are no issues. There is a slight ‘ski jump’ on the front of the running plate caused by the resin bending during the time it was unsupported by the chassis during construction. I’m going to try some weights overnight in the boiler cupboard to sort that. 

 

The one remaining piece of modelling is to create the speedo bracket on the left hand side fior the BTH speedo (the model is set in 1958 when the speedo was removed but the bracket was still there). Can anyone suggest some good photos to use in creating the bracket? The Isinglass drawing is not very clear.

 

Back to the Milk Brake today.

 

Andy

 

 

 

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Some progress with the Milk Brake over the last couple of days. I emailed Andy Edgson about how the bogies were supposed to attach and I’d got it completely wrong! He offered me new parts to try again which was decent of him but I decided to adopt a Headstock/ MJT combo system as shown. I’ve suggested he does one of his Facebook videos on fitting bogies to the floorpan.

 

34856289-ACFB-4FAC-9002-3CEDE2A9CE79.jpeg.a00a640765379cf778515244c31ab8f0.jpeg

 

With this approach the bogie - body gap is about right and as low as I dare from a running POV. Overall, the ride height has come down to within 1mm of correct which I’ll live with.

 

I have started the teaking process. I’ve found this more difficult than my previous attempt in O gauge. I’m aiming for a slightly less weathered look so I can use the vehicle as late ‘30s or late ‘40s. I think the variation between panels may be too great and it may be too orange. I will tone it down after numbering with a weathering wash. Please let me know what you think and be as brutal as you like - I’d rather know now!

 

D89D49FD-C4F5-46FF-A648-09CAFFC777C9.jpeg.7b2419967eeffa57aa1f62003adec400.jpeg378BC98F-C5C3-4287-9662-474FBE3DE428.jpeg.db2021c0d72111b1ab266b7dfc4daaec.jpeg

 

Thanks

 

Andy

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Teak livery , in case you havent seen this.

 

https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/133-teak-coaches

 

To my eye it all looks to Black in the photos . The problem with period colour photos is they are not very reliable.

 

From the NYMR , these are now about 90 years old !!

 

post-7186-0-17018500-1336319102.jpgpost-7186-0-54103700-1336319146.jpg

 

Re Bogies , I had the same problems , his instructions are very poor and need to be rewritten.

 

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Andy,

 

Take a look at the colour pictures on Steve Banks' site, especially the D210 near the bottom and then see whether you think it's too orange.  I have read that the species of teak the GN specified was noted as being more of an orange colour than that used by other railways.   I shouldn't be unhappy with that finish - the only comment I think I'd make is that your panel colouring has dragged onto the framing between panels.   I'd touch that in with something like Humbrol 9 or 62.

 

You will find it darkens when you varnish it but this is an older vehicle by the time you're modelling so that's not a real problem.   What paints did you use to achieve this finish?

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3 hours ago, jwealleans said:

Andy,

 

Take a look at the colour pictures on Steve Banks' site, especially the D210 near the bottom and then see whether you think it's too orange.  I have read that the species of teak the GN specified was noted as being more of an orange colour than that used by other railways.   I shouldn't be unhappy with that finish - the only comment I think I'd make is that your panel colouring has dragged onto the framing between panels.   I'd touch that in with something like Humbrol 9 or 62.

 

You will find it darkens when you varnish it but this is an older vehicle by the time you're modelling so that's not a real problem.   What paints did you use to achieve this finish?

Thanks Jonathan,

 

I used an all over coat of precision paints teak basecoat. Once that had dried I picked out individual panels in darker colours - Humbrol , 9, 62, 70, 186 sometimes with a tiny bit of 10 mixed in. This produced a measly effect as shown below.

 

A3389EC0-C352-4861-AC32-7043FAD21C8D.jpeg.52786afc5a6be524e5e256ad65b35e7b.jpeg 

 

Then finally an all over thin wash of Precision paints ‘weathered teak’.
 

Are you saying that the framing/ beading should all be a uniform colour?

 

Andy

 

 

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3 hours ago, micklner said:

Teak livery , in case you havent seen this.

 

https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/133-teak-coaches

 

To my eye it all looks to Black in the photos . The problem with period colour photos is they are not very reliable.

 

From the NYMR , these are now about 90 years old !!

 

post-7186-0-17018500-1336319102.jpgpost-7186-0-54103700-1336319146.jpg

 

Re Bogies , I had the same problems , his instructions are very poor and need to be rewritten.

 

Thanks Mick, those NYMR coaches are beautiful. The top one shows how much muck gathers at the edge of the panels even on a pampered preserved coach.

 

I had seen the Steve Banks photos and I agree they do look orange. I just wanted some reassurance as the people at my club all thought my Milk Brake was too orange - what do they know!

 

Andy

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58 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Are you saying that the framing/ beading should all be a uniform colour?

 

Not necessarily uniform, just different to the panels.  I paint round the panels first then fill them in with a different colour. 

 

What you've done as your first step looks very close to what I do, apart from the painting round the framing first.  It's all a matter of practice and what looks right to you at the end of the day.   What I found was that once I'd settled on a technique which suited me, the colours I achieved were very close to what the others on Grantham were doing, so we can mix stock very readily and it's not easy for people to tell that it's been painted by different people in different ways.

 

You might also find that if some panels do look a bit intense, a little white spirit on a small brush will reactivate the paint and let you take some back off.   I do that when I'm teaking carriages.   It's also a good way to get flowing grain along a very long panel when the drybrush approach won't cover it properly.

 

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The Milk Brake is just about finished.

 

0215D791-B7EC-4012-A1F8-758A80B6407F.jpeg.6491c05585f9a1d7d7ef522ee01a9ae6.jpeg97307015-2B21-46F1-B945-4F53B5CF6D0E.jpeg.44f5fe61e8a514fa47354e1c01507664.jpeg


I’m pretty pleased with the way the teak has come out now. The varnish and light weathering has toned it down so it’s less in your face. I think the end issue has diminished considerably after painting and it certainly doesn’t worry me. I’m sure some purists will disagree! I’ve finished it in LNER livery to represent either late ‘40s or late ‘30s as I think it looks so pretty in this state. I can feel some 6 wheel milk tankers coming on!

 

The one issue I’m still considering is the roof lights (if that’s what the strange rectangular things on the roof are called).
16A6CF92-2A06-4121-90AC-126EC0D52EDF.jpeg.df53cbc0bd34caf85dbe3ac5c2a37cb8.jpeg

 

I believe that they were glazed, so I had considered varnishing them to represent glass. But a friend suggested that they would be covered in soot so look like the rest of the roof anyway. At the moment they’ve just had a very thin wash of ‘weathered black’ over the standard ‘roof dirt’. Any views on this? 
 

Andy
 

 

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They were skylights (I think rooflights is the correct term) so they were glazed but would have been as black and sooty as the rets of the roof.   It's rare that you can see a different finish in photos.   I always paint them the same colour as the rest of the roof.

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1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

They were skylights (I think rooflights is the correct term) so they were glazed but would have been as black and sooty as the rets of the roof.   It's rare that you can see a different finish in photos.   I always paint them the same colour as the rest of the roof.

That makes life easy!

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3 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

The Milk Brake is just about finished.

 

0215D791-B7EC-4012-A1F8-758A80B6407F.jpeg.6491c05585f9a1d7d7ef522ee01a9ae6.jpeg97307015-2B21-46F1-B945-4F53B5CF6D0E.jpeg.44f5fe61e8a514fa47354e1c01507664.jpeg


I’m pretty pleased with the way the teak has come out now. The varnish and light weathering has toned it down so it’s less in your face. I think the end issue has diminished considerably after painting and it certainly doesn’t worry me. I’m sure some purists will disagree! I’ve finished it in LNER livery to represent either late ‘40s or late ‘30s as I think it looks so pretty in this state. I can feel some 6 wheel milk tankers coming on!

 

The one issue I’m still considering is the roof lights (if that’s what the strange rectangular things on the roof are called).
16A6CF92-2A06-4121-90AC-126EC0D52EDF.jpeg.df53cbc0bd34caf85dbe3ac5c2a37cb8.jpeg

 

I believe that they were glazed, so I had considered varnishing them to represent glass. But a friend suggested that they would be covered in soot so look like the rest of the roof anyway. At the moment they’ve just had a very thin wash of ‘weathered black’ over the standard ‘roof dirt’. Any views on this? 
 

Andy
 

 

That's a great result Andy, went the full 15 rounds but you triumphed in the end!

 

John.

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The steel D.190 CK is now ready for painting as and when the weather permits. Thanks to those who helped with how to make the body separable at the sole bar - that worked well.

 

D69726B7-849F-4EDD-B125-F2FCAA8FC689.jpeg.94203e26cb50a0acfdedff0f5ee7df55.jpeg08B9D8CB-0D77-4A33-B96D-96B1C1CFEAC9.jpeg.5fa238fd84aa2b24f3e16eff0ae225e4.jpeg
 

A pretty little vehicle I think.
 

This will complete my steel quintuple set and it’s first role will be to form part of the 1700 KX to Peterborough on 16th September 1953 when that service was hauled by the pair of Ivatt Atlantics as a test before the Plant Centenarian railtour. There is a picture of this train on p86 of ‘East Coast from Kings Cross’ by a Eric Neve and the D.190 is clearly still in coach brown or teak livery unlike the two steel twins which are in blood and custard. Can anyone help me with which of those liveries it was likely to be in by 1953. I.e. Were they still painting ersatz teak post war or would it just have been coach brown?
 

Andy

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3 hours ago, jwealleans said:

Morning Andy,

 

How's the D210 coming along?  Were you short of droplights?  I found I didn't have enough for the brake compartment.

Morning Jonathan,

 

I made good progress for a while but it’s stalled recently while I concentrate on other projects - mainly trying to get Gresley Jn operational again after it was too hot for the loft in the Summer and then I had a bad back making  things like track cleaning and fixing a point motor rather difficult. I also needed a break from that intense soldering!

 

This is where I’ve got to.

E8A1DC03-6A60-493A-A4B5-E3313DA77CF8.jpeg.fa3df91707a3cd422b50bd6aceff89dd.jpeg

 

The TL sides are ready for forming and soldering to the ends but I haven’t quite worked out how to arrange fixing to the floorpan yet. The BT sides still need droplights. Did you fix the BT sides together before fixing them to the ends or was it done using the partitions once in situ?

 

I seem to have plenty of droplights although I keep breaking the doors hinges as i put them on. If I have any spare at the end I’ll happily post them to you. I can’t find any ventilator hoods in the kit. Did you get yours from MJT separately?

 

Andy

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Coming on, Andy.  I've put the hinges and bump stops on the CL this evening and that's about as much as I can manage.   I did end up two droplights short, but I found some spares.  I did the BT last night and had to use some leftover Worsley works etches for the guards droplights.  I must have mislaid one of the etches when I cut it out of the partitions, i reckon. 

 

I made the two bits of the BT up as separate units then held them together and soldered them.  To fasten to the floorpan, I snapped the ends and the first section of the sides off the floor, then made a small rebate on each end using scrap etch (the bit marked 'Masterclass Models') and used that to hold two captive nuts.  Two short 10BA screws up from underneath at each end hold it together. 

 

I did get the door vents from MJT - along with bogies, underframe kits, roof vents and grab handles.  Shame I forgot buffers as they're now OOS. 

 

I'm waiting for some bearings from 51L and I can make up the bogies and get this second twin up to the same stage as the first.

 

 

 

 

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One of the projects that I have been getting on with is the D.190. Here she is nearing completion.

 

51111644-5F25-4143-A743-04EB75D6453D.jpeg.9715d5843d461af237b35c1b60329dbf.jpeg130B2649-4BB4-4F8D-91C3-6A01701C38D0.jpeg.9ea81ea6110cb03ead038db1fe8d7334.jpeg

I decided to opt for coach brown as I couldn’t work out how to do the change in pattern around the mock beading on the ersatz teak finish. I’d be grateful for any comments on whether I’ve got the shade of coach brown correct (Humbrol 9 with a touch of 10). Also, I’ve painted the foot boards in brown which is what Bachmann do on their Thompsons. But it looks strange and I’ve seen other models with them in black. Photos of the real thing are all black and white so difficult to make out. Can anyone advise?

 

The roof was interesting on this coach. The vents over the FC compartments were offset to the centre line of the compartments. While Thompsons were like this (for both classes), it is unusual or even unique (?) for a Gresley design.

 

985F17CD-AA28-45EA-BA00-C47EC89B1F11.jpeg.36b38bd121230072250c730587a91074.jpeg

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