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On 16/04/2021 at 11:09, thegreenhowards said:

The BG is now finished bar the final buffers.

 

E3AC9B48-15EA-4C3F-89FA-7340B25DF1D3.jpeg.fd06467fd3099c6378d7b7a305eb6503.jpegFCA32C52-44B6-4AAB-A3D5-E86E252DCD7D.jpeg.d543a8640ba5db1e51b14d882c34fee6.jpeg54050879-747D-4964-9560-3B38FE77DB2E.jpeg.4db982cb1560a2084fe8324327948de4.jpeg

 

I’ve done the rain strips as Mike suggested (thanks Mike) and finished off the ends and painting. Some of these coaches seem to have teak coloured wheels and some black. Can anyone enlighten me as to when each is correct?

 

As for the buffers, I’ve spoken to Invertrain and their Haywood Railway clip top buffers are being produced but they’re not imminent, so I’ve stuck some round buffers on for now and will replace with the correct ones as and when they become available.

 

 

 

 

I just got an invoice for a set of these so might be worth trying again now - https://invertrain.com/product/lner-clip-top-buffers/

 

 

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11 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Me too. Mine are in the post apparently. Thanks for thinking of me.

 

 

 

No worries. To be honest I'd forgotten I ordered them, so was a bit "Eh?" when the invoice came in. It's for a VERY long term project.

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Now at the ‘measles’ stage after a pleasant afternoon painting outside. And I’ve added the above door rain strips to keep Mike happy! Mike do you have a view on the colour for the top of the rain strips?

 

CCAD79AA-AFEF-4EDA-A5F8-545E738855D5.jpeg.467d22fa0743ba85207193d8f623010a.jpeg

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The cornice is a teak moulding that covers the joint between the canvas on the roof and the teak sides so the top would be teak coloured. The Cornice Plates, which go over the doors, are steel and are screwed to the Cornice. They were painted with teak coloured paint.

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My latest project is this O gauge B16 which I got in rather sorry condition from Hattons at a bargain price. Those of you who follow Wright writes will have seen this photo of it as it arrived.

92751A7D-DB59-4DEB-ABCE-CE6ADAF9EBD9.jpeg.f83efbfebd529e1a2f706b82791f98d6.jpeg

The paint job was pretty awful being satin black paint straight onto brass with no primer and not surprisingly it was peeling off. So my first job on the body was to strip it. It was quite well built but some of the detail was glued on. Much of this ended up in my sink but I had put the waste catcher down anticipating this so it was all caught in there. I’ve spent the last couple of days soldering the detail back on and I’m largely there now.

 

44264E5D-37D1-4449-B5B7-F696306A5741.jpeg.c1ab7e0a9146c5c2a49ce3c286e96315.jpeg

 

C7AD7E5F-46DA-40F9-AD9A-4EBEA51EEF1E.jpeg.599afe2e06d584abd6f2808b4875bc7d.jpeg


One thing which seems quite strange to my eye is that there is no smokebox wrapper. Looking through the instructions I can’t find any mention of one and looking at prototype photos the smokebox seems pretty flush with the body albeit with some rivets down the rear edge. My unbuilt OO gauge DJH kit seems to be the same so I guess it’s OK.  Does this seem right to those who know these engines better than me?

 

The chassis would hardly move when I got it, so I’ve taken it to bits. The first problem was that the piston rods were too long and hitting the front of the cylinders and the slide bars were pinching and stopping free movement as well. I’ve parked that for now and concentrated on the basic chassis which was still very stiff. So I reamed out the main bearings and the holes in the coupling rods. It now seems better and I have a running 0-6-0 chassis. There was no motor supplied so I added one from stock but I think I may need a bigger faster version to suit this engine as it seems rather ponderous on my test track. I will run it in and then make a decision. 

 

682C0AD1-AB57-4742-A970-CBB0F69D7E32.jpeg.1fb3e56c92493e8830917536050e422f.jpeg

 

Any comments welcome.

 

Andy

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Hi Andy,

 

Looks a lot better without the cruddy paint job! You did ask for comments, so....

 

Now we can see what's going on, is there anyway you can correct the droop at the front of the runnnig plate, a bit of gentle bending perhaps?

 

The soldering around the front of the cab and the rear splasher could do with attention from a scraper and glass fibre brush.

 

Some boiler bands made of thin tape would be just the job.

 

Others will know more than I do, but I wonder if some Archer rivets (which I've never used) could do the job on the boiler/ smokebox joint?

 

John.

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3 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

My latest project is this O gauge B16 which I got in rather sorry condition from Hattons at a bargain price. Those of you who follow Wright writes will have seen this photo of it as it arrived.

92751A7D-DB59-4DEB-ABCE-CE6ADAF9EBD9.jpeg.f83efbfebd529e1a2f706b82791f98d6.jpeg

The paint job was pretty awful being satin black paint straight onto brass with no primer and not surprisingly it was peeling off. So my first job on the body was to strip it. It was quite well built but some of the detail was glued on. Much of this ended up in my sink but I had put the waste catcher down anticipating this so it was all caught in there. I’ve spent the last couple of days soldering the detail back on and I’m largely there now.

 

44264E5D-37D1-4449-B5B7-F696306A5741.jpeg.c1ab7e0a9146c5c2a49ce3c286e96315.jpeg

 

C7AD7E5F-46DA-40F9-AD9A-4EBEA51EEF1E.jpeg.599afe2e06d584abd6f2808b4875bc7d.jpeg


One thing which seems quite strange to my eye is that there is no smokebox wrapper. Looking through the instructions I can’t find any mention of one and looking at prototype photos the smokebox seems pretty flush with the body albeit with some rivets down the rear edge. My unbuilt OO gauge DJH kit seems to be the same so I guess it’s OK.  Does this seem right to those who know these engines better than me?

 

The chassis would hardly move when I got it, so I’ve taken it to bits. The first problem was that the piston rods were too long and hitting the front of the cylinders and the slide bars were pinching and stopping free movement as well. I’ve parked that for now and concentrated on the basic chassis which was still very stiff. So I reamed out the main bearings and the holes in the coupling rods. It now seems better and I have a running 0-6-0 chassis. There was no motor supplied so I added one from stock but I think I may need a bigger faster version to suit this engine as it seems rather ponderous on my test track. I will run it in and then make a decision. 

 

682C0AD1-AB57-4742-A970-CBB0F69D7E32.jpeg.1fb3e56c92493e8830917536050e422f.jpeg

 

Any comments welcome.

 

Andy

 

Andy,

 

If you are doing improvements to this loco then I'd advise looking at @Rob Pulham's O gauge build of this kit: 

 

@mikemeg's build of the 4mm equivalent prior to its LRM re-release is also very useful - reference to the first of his two builds starts here: 

but the actual builds are over many pages.  Both threads were a great deal of use for my 2mm version:

 

 

I'd have a look at: the positioning of that snifter valve (it should be entirely on the smokebox); see whether you want to make a better cover between the frame extensions including a more realistic step; decide which loco you are modelling to determine how many mechanical lubricators you need and get proper NER one(s) if possible; adjust the wires forming the steam reverser gear so that they obviously go behind the frames; decide what the correct whistle arrangement is for your period; and see if that dome can be moved forward slightly (assuming you want a diagram 49 rather than 49A boiler - more to do if the latter!).  You could change the toolboxes on the tender for the correct shaped ones which slope down front to rear if you are so inclined as well.

 

My photos of an NER lubricator are here with toolbox photos in the same sequence:  

 

 

The smokebox is essentially the same diameter as the boiler, but the ejector pipe lacks the correct kink which slightly changes the look of that area (as does the lack of differentiation between smokebox and boiler by texture, colour, boiler bands etc in an unpainted state). 

 

With a bit of tidying up that should look really nice.

 

Regards,

Simon

 

Edit: Hold fire with the rivet transfers and check your photos.  An earlier condition B16 won't have visible rivets on the smokebox rear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by 65179
rivet counting
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3 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

Hi Andy,

 

Looks a lot better without the cruddy paint job! You did ask for comments, so....

 

Now we can see what's going on, is there anyway you can correct the droop at the front of the runnnig plate, a bit of gentle bending perhaps?

 

The soldering around the front of the cab and the rear splasher could do with attention from a scraper and glass fibre brush.

 

Some boiler bands made of thin tape would be just the job.

 

Others will know more than I do, but I wonder if some Archer rivets (which I've never used) could do the job on the boiler/ smokebox joint?

 

John.

Thanks John,

 

I only spotted the droop when I came to put the photos on here and it only seems to be on one side. I’m sure I can ‘persuade’ it straighter. The whole front footplate had become detached and bent back in transit so I had to straighten it out and solder it back on.

 

I recognise that I need to do more tidying up. That will be after I’ve finished soldering. However, I tend to find that as long as it’s smooth and flux free, a bit of solder on the brass doesn’t do any harm, so I won’t be removing it all.

 

The instructions say to not put boiler bands as the lining on its own is overscale. I thought that was surprising in O gauge, but I’m happy to go with it for an easy life unless anyone wants to tell me that would be a mistake. 
 

I need to identify a prototype next to check rivets etc. given Simon’s post.

 

Andy
 

 

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37 minutes ago, 65179 said:

 

Andy,

 

If you are doing improvements to this loco then I'd advise looking at @Rob Pulham's O gauge build of this kit: 

 

@mikemeg's build of the 4mm equivalent prior to its LRM re-release is also very useful - reference to the first of his two builds starts here: 

but the actual builds are over many pages.  Both threads were a great deal of use for my 2mm version:

 

 

I'd have a look at: the positioning of that snifter valve (it should be entirely on the smokebox); see whether you want to make a better cover between the frame extensions including a more realistic step; decide which loco you are modelling to determine how many mechanical lubricators you need and get proper NER one(s) if possible; adjust the wires forming the steam reverser gear so that they obviously go behind the frames; decide what the correct whistle arrangement is for your period; and see if that dome can be moved forward slightly (assuming you want a diagram 49 rather than 49A boiler - more to do if the latter!).  You could change the toolboxes on the tender for the correct shaped ones which slope down front to rear if you are so inclined as well.

 

My photos of an NER lubricator are here with toolbox photos in the same sequence:  

 

 

The smokebox is essentially the same diameter as the boiler, but the ejector pipe lacks the correct kink which slightly changes the look of that area (as does the lack of differentiation between smokebox and boiler by texture, colour, boiler bands etc in an unpainted state). 

 

With a bit of tidying up that should look really nice.

 

Regards,

Simon

 

Edit: Hold fire with the rivet transfers and check your photos.  An earlier condition B16 won't have visible rivets on the smokebox rear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Simon,

 

Many thanks for that comprehensive reply. I have quite a bit of bedtime reading!

 

Andy

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I’ve been trying to finish off the C12 over the last week and I think it’s there now. I fitted the cab footsteps to the underneath of the cab on a bodged piece of scrap etch. This means that I can still remove the cab for painting as if fitted to the valence as per the instructions the cab would be sealed in place.

C6F62516-2370-4386-B8AC-0083849C4CD0.jpeg.78da2b08d57e133bd22e2cf4c66b3156.jpeg
 

Once fitted I think the subterfuge is invisible. So here she is all ready for the paint shop. I was short changed the top of the safety valves which I had to scratch build and one vac pipe which I will have to source later. 
 

88B1406C-DAC5-4CF6-B8AB-8FDCC59F0BB0.jpeg.46af5716434748fb78fb4535973e43e2.jpeg

 

3AFB8313-FFFC-41EB-8104-E6B174F04071.jpeg.83a7bb968add9dd420974f7b5af2e77e.jpeg
 

C62D3E60-963F-4D73-BD09-C9654452AEFD.jpeg.d6c992aef5b376e372b24a5072f5e4a1.jpeg

 

She now runs pretty smoothly as I hope this 20 secs video shows.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I’ve been making some progress with the B16...although it seems to be more backwards than forwards at the moment!

 

I read @Rob Pulham’s description of his build as recommended by @65179. It was inspirational but rather scary. I don’t think I will be going to that level of detail, but I will incorporate some of his ideas. The mechanical lubricator are strange. The ones I have seem completely wrong and different to his so I assume they were upgraded when Gladiator took over the kit. I will have to speak to David Hill about some spare parts.

 

Recently, I’ve been paint stripping the tender. The main sides have come up quite nicely although there is some cleaning to do around the detail and like on the loco quite a lot of detail fell off because it was glued and will need soldering back on. The problem I’ve encounter is that the sides seem to be a strange two layer construction as shown below. 

 

43C41B43-33C4-4ABD-A7BC-CA541BEEB289.jpeg.5ab14e291c51781989f03f96eb6e56ae.jpeg

 

The outer skin was glued on and so started to peel off with the paint stripper. I finished the job but it’s a bit of a mess and will need cleaning up. Can anyone suggest how to reattach the outer layer? I’d like to solder it, but I’m not sure I can make it work with a plate that large. It looks like previous builder had tried solder as there’s some traces on the back as below.

 

5FBC1976-3FD8-4D8A-9746-9FAA4E29CD9E.jpeg.8ae4be8f74dab55dcc081b5d6e6f02ec.jpeg

 

My current thinking is to tin both sides well with 145 solder, add loads of flux and use my 100W iron to fuse them together from the outside. But I’d welcome any comments on that or other methods.

 

Andy

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Andy,

 

I'm not sure the ones on Rob's build are quite right either, but they'd certainly be closer than what was fitted originally.  My 2mm ones are just blobs, but I tried to make sure they looked vaguely like the ones in my Q7 photos (wheel low down on the lubricator body and odd bulge out to one side) because they were right for my loco. 

 

Simon

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7 hours ago, 65179 said:

Andy,

 

I'm not sure the ones on Rob's build are quite right either, but they'd certainly be closer than what was fitted originally.  My 2mm ones are just blobs, but I tried to make sure they looked vaguely like the ones in my Q7 photos (wheel low down on the lubricator body and odd bulge out to one side) because they were right for my loco. 

 

Simon

Thanks Simon,

 

I’ve still got to read your and Mikemeg’s write ups which I will do soon. Your pictures were very useful.

 

regards

 

Andy

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I’ve now finished backdating the 51’ full brake which I showed a picture of on May 11th. I hope I haven’t forgotten anything but I have this horrible feeling that someone will point out something I’ve left off.

 

D95D5456-5020-4F72-BAFA-5E06F2E360F8.jpeg.81d2bfcfe4ee895e721c9fe7415e21d1.jpegC2308DC0-753E-4E9B-A002-BA9EFDAD2CA7.jpeg.a18a36ababeecd1400130dfcd398fd93.jpeg

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, jwealleans said:

Handles on the right hand doors of the pairs?

Good point! It looks like I even drilled the holes to fit them before painting but forgot them now. Will sort sharpish.

 

Thanks

 

Andy

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I fired up the airbrush over the weekend and painted my O gauge C12 (apple green only - the rest was brush painted). I’m pleased to say that a few coats of primer and some sanding down have hidden the blemishes on the cab roof where I had difficulty bending it. It’s now painted in GNR livery but with the lining still to do. I’m away for three days from tomorrow, so will take the body and some transfers to work on in the evening. The lining will (hopefully) hide my hand painted divisions between the light and dark green.

 

7B890764-97C3-4739-97A0-BDEF2F081091.jpeg.690051099452f536f4afb97fb09fe962.jpeg

 

It wasn’t easy working out exactly which bits should be which colour as I only had black and white photos of C12s in GNR livery. So I was relying on a combination of them and other people’s models. If any spots any a virus errors, please let me know.

 

Thanks

 

Andy

 

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While the airbrush was fired up for my C12, I also did some loco and horsebox weathering. The locos will appear later but I finished off the horseboxes today - one Hornby LMS and one a Parkside LNER D.5. I sprayed frame dirt on the underframe, roof dirt on the roof and a mix on the sides, then a bit of weathering powder to bring out the detail and put some rust on the frames. I think I may have overdone the roof grey but I’d welcome any comments as these are the first ‘wagons’ I’ve done using an airbrush.

 

8DB69C31-39EC-4EA8-A707-E313F14B5A92.jpeg.d52948bc4cc8fd161e5dd050dc94adc2.jpegBB3A2CB7-4FAE-4951-809A-50A9ACEF8730.jpeg.e3ab824a816a28826cf5ecb8f32c37d9.jpeg

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Some more playing with weathering powders yesterday and coal/ crew/ lamps fitted this morning, so here is the first of the locos finished. This is the Cotswold/Bachmann/ SE Finecast F2 which I featured in here a few months ago.

C6003E15-AFD3-412C-99C2-FCA72ACEB262.jpeg.f822425142819577cdf0c5e366faa37f.jpeg
 

2D4FFE0C-07C3-46EB-A2A3-C87E0A32A44E.jpeg.ba000974eed4d90a969d6082d7b183bd.jpeg

 

212A1979-E0FF-402D-8479-4567D94A5F94.jpeg.1dc496da67de76f0390237c17fc1adaa.jpeg

 

I’m generally pleased with it, but I should have glazed it after weathering or remembered to wipe the windows while the paint was still wet.

 

 

Andy

 

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Re. your weathering, I don't think you've overdone the roof grey at all on the Horseboxes. Most of the roofs of stock, including top link passenger stock would have been sooty grot colour other than for a few days after a works visit, and that's what they look like.

 

I really like the F2. Again, other than locos ex.works, and a few stars that were cleaned, it is apparent from photos that many secondary locos received scant attention at all. There isn't any black on your F2, just shades of brown and grey, which seem to me very convincing. Particularly so for the late 40's, when everything was still pretty run down from the War and cleaning would have been minimal.

 

My interest in your efforts is a bit more than academic. I've never been happy with "wet" weathering, other than a general thin wash that is then mainly taken off again, or a waft of dirt over roof or underframe with the airbrush. I once spent most of a day weathering a Railblue 56 with the airbrush, I was pleased with the outcome but phew, what an epic! So some experimentation with powders might just be my answer.

 

John.

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9 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:

Re. your weathering, I don't think you've overdone the roof grey at all on the Horseboxes. Most of the roofs of stock, including top link passenger stock would have been sooty grot colour other than for a few days after a works visit, and that's what they look like.

 

I really like the F2. Again, other than locos ex.works, and a few stars that were cleaned, it is apparent from photos that many secondary locos received scant attention at all. There isn't any black on your F2, just shades of brown and grey, which seem to me very convincing. Particularly so for the late 40's, when everything was still pretty run down from the War and cleaning would have been minimal.

 

My interest in your efforts is a bit more than academic. I've never been happy with "wet" weathering, other than a general thin wash that is then mainly taken off again, or a waft of dirt over roof or underframe with the airbrush. I once spent most of a day weathering a Railblue 56 with the airbrush, I was pleased with the outcome but phew, what an epic! So some experimentation with powders might just be my answer.

 

John.

Thanks for your comments on my weathering. I should state if it wasn’t clear that both the horse boxes and the F2 were airbrush weathered first and then powders added to add detail/ contrast and bring out the relief. I use ‘smoke’, ‘city dirt’ and my own mix of black and rust. I used to do the first overall wash with brushed on thinned paint, but I think the airbrush is better…..if a fag to clean!

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The final loco from my airbrush weathering session is this Heljan O2. I’ve just fitted the crew and now regard it as finished.

 

0A36CB1E-7C58-4DF1-89AA-8987AAD58BFC.jpeg.ddd82e36c4f26e6e5e0626e0dc244ebd.jpeg

 

D4D76D44-A9B1-41B7-AEE9-8524B5C220F7.jpeg.79212470cda8e7a51aac7c3e0c2cb187.jpeg

 

CCD0BFDE-986C-4F49-9F4B-3AD83E8F5C96.jpeg.bfdcdc66f7ae38aac896568946d39d5a.jpeg

 

As with the F2, this had an airbrush weathering with frame dirt and roof grey in differing proportions. I then used powders to introduce some variety and bring out the relief.

 

 

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Yesterday I more or less finished the lining on my C12.

 

A0B80303-0BEA-4572-9EDD-F6C0A35B514B.jpeg.9064d8d91223dd499781086291ea51c9.jpeg
 

7F7B7A8C-5C3B-4601-BA51-FB949C8D7151.jpeg.27110bfa4ce5e10a9b618df28a94c1c7.jpeg

 

7B64268A-A985-4795-9177-EF9DF67FD7D5.jpeg.ed6b688311a5680f31036534c50cbd86.jpeg

 

This was all done with Fox transfers and I think it’s come out well, although not perfect close up. If anyone spots and errors or omissions, please let me know.

 

The bit which I’m not sure about is the valance (if that’s the right word - the brown bit along the bottom). Should this be lined? The prototype photos aren’t clear as they’re  black and white so it’s difficult enough to work out what brown and what’s black, let alone whether the brown is lined. The preserved N2 appears not to be lined there while the C2 is. Either way it will have a black pipe running along it so any lining would be largely hidden!

 

Today’s job is painting the wheels and cab. The wheels are going to be really hard to line - any tips?

 

Andy

 

 

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