Nether Madder and Green Soudley Rly

[chuffinghell]

I'm going with Plan B then and will let the room "breathe" until Tuesday. Tuesday is baseboard day so I hope all will be ready by then (all appendages crossed).

 

I'm sure others will join me in keeping our fingers crossed for you too

[Mikkel]

Hi Martin, I have dipped in occasionally but have now had a proper leisurely walk through the whole thread. What a world you are creating, there is so much modelling potential at the intersection between reality and fantasy, I think.

[Martin S-C]

Thank you Mikkel, coming from such a talented modeller as you, that is high praise indeed. I just hope I can pull this off. It has massive potential - but also lots can go wrong. I know exactly how I want this to be but achieving that is the hard part.

Yesterday my sample Peco loco lift arrived. I've been inspired to try these out by this discussion starting at post #1887 and have ensured some straight clear track at the MVR Exchange sidings accordingly. As John and others have found the foam sides of the lift are too flimsy and you still exert pressure against the sides of the model when picking the lift up so paintwork and small details are still at risk. The channels at the sides are 4mm wide but I found in a local Hobbycraft store A1 sized foamboard sheets 5mm thick for £4 a go so at that price decided to try this material.

I cut the foamboard to size and found that by squeezing the bottom edge and filing away any burrs on the end of the aluminium trough (especially the "jaws") the squeezed foamboard slid in nice and firmly from one end and is a tight enough fit to withstand picking the lift up with it, loco included. I'd still feel uncomfortable unless I did this two-handed though with the second palm under the lift to support it. The second plastic gate/stacking handle then squeezes onto the open end. This is the only tricky part of the fit. Some of the covering of the foamboard tears a little but by easing it in with a flat screwdriver blade or a non-sharp (aka table) knife you can get a pretty tidy result.

 

 

 

 

I am going to get a second lift and try chopping it in half for 2 x tank locos. I just need to find something for the end gate/stacking handles.

Edited January 12, 2019 by Martin S-C

[Denbridge]

Thank you Mikkel, coming from such a talented modeller as you, that is high praise indeed. I just hope I can pull this off. It has massive potential - but also lots can go wrong. I know exactly how I want this to be but achieving that is the hard part.

Yesterday my sample Pecp loco lift arrived. I've been inspired to try these out by this discussion starting at post #1887 and have ensured some straigt clear track at the MVR Exchange sidings accordingly. As John and others have found the foam sides of the lift are too flimsy and you still exert pressure against the sides of the model when picking the lift up so paintwork and small details are still at risk. The channels at the sides are 4mm wide but I found in a local Hobbycraft store A1 sized foambpard sheets 5mm thick for £4 a go so at that price decided to try this material.

I cut the foamboard to size and found that by squeezing the bottom edge and filing away any burrs on the end of the aluminium trough (especially the "jaws") the squeezed foamboard slid in nice and firmly from one end and is a tight enough fit to withstand picking the lift up with it, loco included. I'd still feel uncomfortable unless I did this two-handed though with the second palm under the lift to support it. The second plastic gate/stacking handle then squeezes onto the open end. This is the only tricky part of the fit. Some of the covering of the foamboard tears a little but by easing it in with a flat screwdriver blade or a non-sharp (aka table) knife you can get a pretty tidy result.

Dsc02957.jpg

 

Dsc02958.jpg

 

Dsc02955.jpg

 

Dsc02956.jpg

[Denbridge]

 

Thank you Mikkel, coming from such a talented modeller as you, that is high praise indeed. I just hope I can pull this off. It has massive potential - but also lots can go wrong. I know exactly how I want this to be but achieving that is the hard part.

Yesterday my sample Pecp loco lift arrived. I've been inspired to try these out by this discussion starting at post #1887 and have ensured some straigt clear track at the MVR Exchange sidings accordingly. As John and others have found the foam sides of the lift are too flimsy and you still exert pressure against the sides of the model when picking the lift up so paintwork and small details are still at risk. The channels at the sides are 4mm wide but I found in a local Hobbycraft store A1 sized foambpard sheets 5mm thick for £4 a go so at that price decided to try this material.

I cut the foamboard to size and found that by squeezing the bottom edge and filing away any burrs on the end of the aluminium trough (especially the "jaws") the squeezed foamboard slid in nice and firmly from one end and is a tight enough fit to withstand picking the lift up with it, loco included. I'd still feel uncomfortable unless I did this two-handed though with the second palm under the lift to support it. The second plastic gate/stacking handle then squeezes onto the open end. This is the only tricky part of the fit. Some of the covering of the foamboard tears a little but by easing it in with a flat screwdriver blade or a non-sharp (aka table) knife you can get a pretty tidy result.Dsc02957.jpg

 Dsc02958.jpg

 Dsc02955.jpg

 Dsc02956.jpg

I lift my cradles using both hands holding the end handles. I've never found a need to replace the foam. It simply exists to prevent a loco falling out of the sides.

[Martin S-C]

Yes, I'm sure most people get on fine with the original foam sides but they're not for me. This was 10 or 15 minutes work and very little cost and I think it adds security to the design. The device felt flimsy and with a loco in it, it twisted. It didn't feel at all safe and I don't think the foam would stop a loco falling out either! The foamboard provides more rigidity to the structure as well as more security at the sides. If a stack shifts the foamboard protects the top of a model as well which the foam wouldn't. I don't plan on stacking them but its another plus factor.

[St Enodoc]

Thank you Mikkel, coming from such a talented modeller as you, that is high praise indeed. I just hope I can pull this off. It has massive potential - but also lots can go wrong. I know exactly how I want this to be but achieving that is the hard part.

 

Yesterday my sample Peco loco lift arrived. I've been inspired to try these out by this discussion starting at post #1887 and have ensured some straight clear track at the MVR Exchange sidings accordingly. As John and others have found the foam sides of the lift are too flimsy and you still exert pressure against the sides of the model when picking the lift up so paintwork and small details are still at risk. The channels at the sides are 4mm wide but I found in a local Hobbycraft store A1 sized foamboard sheets 5mm thick for £4 a go so at that price decided to try this material.

 

I cut the foamboard to size and found that by squeezing the bottom edge and filing away any burrs on the end of the aluminium trough (especially the "jaws") the squeezed foamboard slid in nice and firmly from one end and is a tight enough fit to withstand picking the lift up with it, loco included. I'd still feel uncomfortable unless I did this two-handed though with the second palm under the lift to support it. The second plastic gate/stacking handle then squeezes onto the open end. This is the only tricky part of the fit. Some of the covering of the foamboard tears a little but by easing it in with a flat screwdriver blade or a non-sharp (aka table) knife you can get a pretty tidy result.

 

Dsc02957.jpg

 

Dsc02958.jpg

 

Dsc02955.jpg

 

Dsc02956.jpg

 

I am going to get a second lift and try chopping it in half for 2 x tank locos. I just need to find something for the end gate/stacking handles.

 

Dsc02959.jpg

That's good Martin. I haven't got round to trying my Loco Lift with foam board yet but your trial has shown that it will work. Thanks.

[81C]

Hi Martin I like the foam board idea as there was plenty hussing & cussing trying to get the foam to fit neatly with 2 recently purchased lifts

they still looks a mess, a trip to Hobbycraft for SWMBO next week as she passes the place every Tuesday for coffee with her mate. 

[Martin S-C]

The foamboard makes a much bigger difference to the overall strength of the unit than I anticipated. Getting the 5mm board into the channel with its 4 mm jaws can result in some tearing of the boards outer skin as my photos show but by smoothing off the burrs on the end of the aluminium as much as you can and squidging the lower edge of the foamboard a fair bit, it slides in without too much hassle. Why Peco didn't use something similar I don't know; the supplied grey sponge is pretty useless and is a right pain to get seated home properly as you've found out.

[Martin S-C]

Concerning the damp situation I ran a test by letting the room breathe for 2 or 3 days as mentioned earlier then added an extra coat of paint to one of the long walls. Lo and behold, during the next heat-then-ventilate cycle, loads of moisture once again formed on windows and plug sockets. Two days later and that moisture has gone so it seems the worst of my problems were due to the plaster, wet paint and probably fresh concrete. The heat/ventilate cycle has really helped though.

Tuesday is baseboard day. Hurrah. Some proper railway construction at last.

[Martin S-C]

First proper modelling I've done since nearly sawing my thumb off at the beginning of December.

The Bachmann tanker is a simple hand-painted rename by changing a few letters. The Dapol GPV is being repainted and lettered into a GSR wagon. A yellow warning X will be applied across the doors. The Dapol PO tar tanker getting a repaint and new lettering for the greaseworks.
 

I decided to have a go at using HMRS transfers but one letter at a time its something I don't wish to repeat. However, I've started now so I'll finish. But no more like this. I'll arrange a set of made up transfers if I do any more PO wagons needing this much writing.

 

 

 

 

[Martin S-C]

Church bells have been ringing out across Peterborough this morning as Messers. Neil and Alan cut the first sod on the NM&GSR.

Baseboard frames for the colliery end going up first. Lifting flap over the doorway on the right and quarry and exchange sidings on the left.

 

Alan and Neil hard at work. Well, Neil is; Alan and I are supervising and planning the next tea break.

 

Loose frame clamped in place across the lifting flap/door where Puddlebrook Junc will be. Nearer frame on the right is for Witts End branch terminus.

 

Looking "east", main frames for Green Soudley and Nether Madder going in. Quarry and exchange sidings frame to the right, Witts End to the left.

[chuffinghell]

Looking great nice operating height.......very well thought out and planned, well done sir

[Stubby47]

Those look like quite spindly legs - will they take the planned weight ?

 

Looks really good though, you can definitely get the sense of space and what the layout will look like.

Edited January 15, 2019 by Stubby47

[Martin S-C]

Datum is 40". The highest track above that is +8" and me being only 5 ft 7" its going to make a nice operating height. When we had a break and Neil and I were chatting we both said almost at once that it was a nice comfortable height "just about bar height". I much prefer this to the height of, say, a kitchen work surface, which makes my lower back hurt after a while.

Yes, the legs do look spindly but the layout is also braced by the walls and the bases of the leg-frames are screwed to the floor so in fact its quite sturdy. If it ever gets to a quality of presentation where I think it could be exhibited it will need different legs of course.

Edited January 15, 2019 by Martin S-C

[brumtb]

That looks really good and so full of promise for the future. 

Well done!

 

Tony

[Nearholmer]

The aisle width looks OK too. somehow, the plan makes it look more constricting.

[Annie]

Brilliant!  Woooooo Hoooooo.  The first sod is cut and things are underway.  Congratulations Martin! 

 

[RedGemAlchemist]

Excellent news Martin! I look forward to watching it develop!

[Martin S-C]

The aisle width looks OK too. somehow, the plan makes it look more constricting.

Yes. This suprised me too. Two people can pass in reasonable comfort, even with one of them wearing a pillow under his shirt a I am regularly wont to do.

Edited January 15, 2019 by Martin S-C

[St Enodoc]

Church bells have been ringing out across Peterborough this morning as Messers. Neil and Alan cut the first sod on the NM&GSR.

 

Baseboard frames for the colliery end going up first. Lifting flap over the doorway on the right and quarry and exchange sidings on the left.

Dsc02963.jpg

 

Alan and Neil hard at work. Well, Neil is; Alan and I are supervising and planning the next tea break.

Dsc02964.jpg

 

Loose frame clamped in place across the lifting flap/door where Puddlebrook Junc will be. Nearer frame on the right is for Witts End branch terminus.

Dsc02965.jpg

 

Looking "east", main frames for Green Soudley and Nether Madder going in. Quarry and exchange sidings frame to the right, Witts End to the left.

Dsc02966.jpg

Very nice Martin.

 

What sort of blinds are you going to fit to the windows? I have to say that I would have been inclined to fit them before the baseboards.

[Martin S-C]

Right now I have no plan to fit blinds. Our garden is completely private and not overlooked from any direction. The end window is shaded completely from sunlight by a 4m hedge (hence our privacy) and the other window and the door face north so both in terms of visual security and heat from direct sunlight there is no need for blinds. If I do fit any I will put wooden Venetian ones up but I will be okay dealing with that when/if its needed.

[BWsTrains]

Right now I have no plan to fit blinds. Our garden is completely private and not overlooked from any direction. The end window is shaded completely from sunlight by a 4m hedge (hence our privacy) and the other window and the door face north so both in terms of visual security and heat from direct sunlight there is no need for blinds. If I do fit any I will put wooden Venetian ones up but I will be okay dealing with that when/if its needed.

Martin,

 

despite the often dingy light in your Northern regions I think you'll be very surprised by the degree of lighting contrast you'll get without blinds - when it comes to photos.

 

The eye accommodates very well compared to your average standard digital camera, iPhone and iPad do rather better but you might still be unhappy with the light v dark effects you get. The attached is an extreme case I'll admit, but my iPhone 6s didn't cope at all well. with a standard camera it would have been a bleach out

 

[Martin S-C]

That's an excellent point which I had overlooked. When blinds were mentioned I was considering issues such as security, privacy and sun-fade on scenery but photography is a separate issue. I can probably hang some net curtain style material up to act as a diffuser or more carefully select my time of day or sunlight conditions for photography.

There is in fact no direct sunlight into the room as the south and east walls have no windows, the west window has a tall hedge just adjacent and the door and other window face north. Its probably going to be a good room to paint and model in, come to think of it, much better than my existing modelling desk which is next to a west-facing set of patio doors and which in summer is hopeless as the sun comes round.

[Denbridge]

That's an excellent point which I had overlooked. When blinds were mentioned I was considering issues such as security, privacy and sun-fade on scenery but photography is a separate issue. I can probably hang some net curtain style material up to act as a diffuser or more carefully select my time of day or sunlight conditions for photography.

There is in fact no direct sunlight into the room as the south and east walls have no windows, the west window has a tall hedge just adjacent and the door and other window face north. Its probably going to be a good room to paint and model in, come to think of it, much better than my existing modelling desk which is next to a west-facing set of patio doors and which in summer is hopeless as the sun comes round.

You may be suprised how much colours fade near a window, even without direct sunlight. A former layout of mine was laid out with one portion across a window. Despite getting next to no direct sunlight, the scenery in that area was,after a couple of years distinctly lighter than the rest. The ballast also changed colour most noticeably.