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Andy Y

Kernow MRC announce PRA china clay wagons, expected to arrive before the end of the year!

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Hi all 

I’ve just converted mine to P4 

the w irons are not wide enough and require thinning to allow P4 wheels to fit 

The brakes have a bar along the bottom to give them the correct spacing, I glue the ends of the rigging down before I thinned the bar to stop it fouling the P4 wheel sets 

when the W irons are thinned I took about 1mm off, then reamed the bearing out and cleared any plastic away

test fit the wheel sets and make sure there’s no fouling and there’s it converted to P4 

cheers

will take about 30 minutes to do a wagon 

Roomey 

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Just ordered 5 of these, they look superb. Definitely a contender for wagon of the year here from the pictures. I'll do a review on my ABC Workshops 'Derby Works' Facebook page when I get a quiet mo. 

 

Genuinely looking forward to these landing on my doorstep.. I was originally only going to have three but they look so good I've upped it. Bet these don't hang around.

 

Alex

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1 minute ago, Lochnagar said:

Just ordered 5 of these, they look superb. Definitely a contender for wagon of the year here from the pictures. I'll do a review on my ABC Workshops 'Derby Works' Facebook page when I get a quiet mo. 

 

Genuinely looking forward to these landing on my doorstep.. I was originally only going to have three but they look so good I've upped it. Bet these don't hang around.

 

Alex

 

 

I’d have say not as there very good in there detail there are little things that could have been better, work buffers and working coupling and space for all gauges of wheels

 other wagons this year which have detail is to a truly high standard of detail  would come first but they still a good wagon 

Roomey

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4 minutes ago, roomey said:

 

 

I’d have say not as there very good in there detail there are little things that could have been better, work buffers and working coupling and space for all gauges of wheels

 other wagons this year which have detail is to a truly high standard of detail  would come first but they still a good wagon 

Roomey

I think the Accurascale PCA still takes top spot without a doubt, but this isn't too far behind. It's still in a different league to the Hornby christmas wagon.. LOL. 

 

Look forward to seeing yours weathered.

 

 

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2 hours ago, roomey said:

 

 

I’d have say not as there very good in there detail there are little things that could have been better, work buffers and working coupling and space for all gauges of wheels

 other wagons this year which have detail is to a truly high standard of detail  would come first but they still a good wagon 

Roomey

 

Agree, good wagon - but a few bits.  I had a black PRA......

 

Think the largest one, and I'm so surprised its not been mentioned in the thread, is the leaf springs.  I am assuming its the same manufacturer that DJ/FTG used on the SPA, because on that they were a really basic moulding.  On the PRA they are better, but much more of a "representation", than a fully detailed leaf spring, which the Cemflo from another manufacturer has beautifully executed (See photos below).  Printed "Cleats" info, also looses a little definition, on lowest 2 lines, but otherwise really nice paint job.  There are a couple of other things, which are really minor, although when I first placed it on a piece of track, I did think the wagon "appears" to sit slightly high regarding the buffer height.  Which when placed with a Bachmann Mk2, and Class 47 it does, but with the Revolution TEA, its buffers sits slightly below those of the TEA.  So who who knows. Maybe it is right?  

 

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Regards,

 

C.

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Well had have a little shunt before weathering them, they run very well in P4

cheers 

Roomey

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Why would you put spare buffers in? Simple, two of mine have fallen off already, good thing there are plenty of spares, will strengthen the others with a touch of glue. So whilst it is a superb wagon it is not wagon of the year by any stretch. Anyway they are down in Nangullow being pushed around by ‘Denise’

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That’s both mine completed, washes, and wiped down then airbrush over and dry brush 

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Lovely weathering Roomey, yet to start on mine. 

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On 11/09/2019 at 10:42, roomey said:

Hi all 

I’ve just converted mine to P4 

 

 

Ha, beaten me to it! I was just about to show details of the conversion I've done.

 

Having tried fitting the P4 wheelsets initially I was unsure whether they were binding on the backs of the W irons or on the brake gear. So after removing the wheels again I gently prised off the brake gear with a scalpel blade. Although glued in place, with a gentle bit of leverage it was possible to break the bond and remove the brakes without damage. Reinserting the wheels showed they now turned freely so no work was needed on the W irons. I reckoned the tops of the wheel treads were fouling on the bit of plastic sprue which joined the pair of brake shoes together so I just removed this and reattached each brake shoe individually, securing them with a touch of cyano glue and repositioning them to suit the wider gauge. The brake cross shafts were then replaced using slightly longer lengths of 0.31mm wire, sprung into place and secured with more cyano.

I've just today received delivery of some Accurascale PCA cement wagons and whilst not wanting to get drawn into the debate over which is the better model it does look like a similar amount of work will be required to convert them to P4.

 

 

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10 hours ago, mike knowles said:

 

Ha, beaten me to it! I was just about to show details of the conversion I've done.

 

Having tried fitting the P4 wheelsets initially I was unsure whether they were binding on the backs of the W irons or on the brake gear. So after removing the wheels again I gently prised off the brake gear with a scalpel blade. Although glued in place, with a gentle bit of leverage it was possible to break the bond and remove the brakes without damage. Reinserting the wheels showed they now turned freely so no work was needed on the W irons. I reckoned the tops of the wheel treads were fouling on the bit of plastic sprue which joined the pair of brake shoes together so I just removed this and reattached each brake shoe individually, securing them with a touch of cyano glue and repositioning them to suit the wider gauge. The brake cross shafts were then replaced using slightly longer lengths of 0.31mm wire, sprung into place and secured with more cyano.

I've just today received delivery of some Accurascale PCA cement wagons and whilst not wanting to get drawn into the debate over which is the better model it does look like a similar amount of work will be required to convert them to P4.

 

 

 

Think it depends on wheel sets used I found the fouled mine 

if check the Accurascale page I did bit how to convert them which is quite easy to do 

cheers

Dave 

 

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My pair arrived on Saturday and I was most pleased!

 

They'll be used on my layout Trevanna Dries, worked in and out by a class 08 along with VGA vans.

 

Well done to the Kernow team for getting a much needed wagon done and for saving me a scratch building job!

 

Cheers.

 

 

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Now suitably weathered and in revenue earning service

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My pair weathered and having an outing on our club layout. I bought a couple of of Paul Bartlett's photos to use as inspiration. Hopefully their filthy state captured!

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When being pushed whilst shunting my PRA's are regularly derailing. On review I think they are too light and will benefit from increased weight.  Ideally I would add weight to the floor inside the wagon but the roof appears fixed. Has anyone worked out a way to get inside these wagons without drilling holes in the chasis?

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1 hour ago, young37215 said:

When being pushed whilst shunting my PRA's are regularly derailing. On review I think they are too light and will benefit from increased weight.  Ideally I would add weight to the floor inside the wagon but the roof appears fixed. Has anyone worked out a way to get inside these wagons without drilling holes in the chasis?

also check the wheel back to backs

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2 hours ago, young37215 said:

When being pushed whilst shunting my PRA's are regularly derailing. On review I think they are too light and will benefit from increased weight.  Ideally I would add weight to the floor inside the wagon but the roof appears fixed. Has anyone worked out a way to get inside these wagons without drilling holes in the chasis?

I glued small off cuts of lead underneath the wagon.

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This months Rail Express has a review which highlights the tension lock couplings are non standard height. I shall be checking these as well as the back to backs. Irrespective of these potential issues, I feel the wagons are lighter than others and will benefit from a little more weight, preferably hidden inside the wagon. On the basis that the roof does not come off the body, it looks like a small hole will need to be drilled in an unobtrusive area to enable some weight to be inserted.

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The TL couplers are at the right height - however the mounts are not.  As such the insert TL couplers supplied have a step in them to compensate for the height difference.  This is the same as the original release Bachmann TTA and family.  If you use TLs then you will have no issue - however if plan to covert to Kadee or other couplers then the mount is not to NEM standard and will likely require removing and a new mount (or more likely with Kadees an entire coupling box from non NEM socket range) installed at correct height.  Quite an easy thing to do (I have plenty of TTAs with this mod) but a little irritating that have to...

 

M

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For NEM Kadees , you can lower the existing coupling pocket to the correct height with a piece of plasticard (cant remember the thickness I used). Successfully did two wagons and verified with a height guage.

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So I’ve fitted my chosen couplings and sprung them along with sprung buffers so they will go round corners and behave themselves by staying on the track, can anyone tell me if the round bit on the end of the air pipe should be there  or is it a moulding pip left over from the production process and should be cut off?

 

Thanks in anticipation.

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1 hour ago, bubbles2 said:

So I’ve fitted my chosen couplings and sprung them along with sprung buffers so they will go round corners and behave themselves by staying on the track, can anyone tell me if the round bit on the end of the air pipe should be there  or is it a moulding pip left over from the production process and should be cut off?

 

Thanks in anticipation.

0DC078BA-F372-4EEB-839E-845DC7E776AD.jpeg

the round bit is the shocket on the pipe 

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On 23/11/2019 at 11:30, bubbles2 said:

So I’ve fitted my chosen couplings and sprung them along with sprung buffers so they will go round corners and behave themselves by staying on the track, can anyone tell me if the round bit on the end of the air pipe should be there  or is it a moulding pip left over from the production process and should be cut off?

 

Thanks in anticipation.

0DC078BA-F372-4EEB-839E-845DC7E776AD.jpeg

Hi, can I ask , who’s sprung buffers did you use ? 

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