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Hornby dublo


ddoherty958
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On 21/10/2020 at 00:04, David_Belcher said:

Not the most flattering photo going, but progress is being made on my 2-railed 'Montrose' from eBay ending up as 'City of Sheffield'.

 

I'm not sure why it slants downwards in the pic as this isn't the case in reality. Probably my camera work...

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Hi David,

This is my Duchess of Atholl after I repainted it. Tried to keep the paint the same colour as the original. looking at your photo yes it does look like it has a definite slant. The footplate seems much higher over the rear wheels than the front ones.

Duchess of Atholl 3.jpg

Duchess of Atholl 2.jpg

Duchess of Atholl 1.jpg

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20 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi all,

Just found this thread. Some of my H/D engines get modified some what like this, In to a couple of Drummond engines.

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Ingenious. Reminds me of an old D. Fereday Glenn article in RM where he altered a couple of Dublo N2s to make ex-Rhymney and ex-LBSC 0-6-2Ts.

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17 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi David,

This is my Duchess of Atholl after I repainted it. Tried to keep the paint the same colour as the original. looking at your photo yes it does look like it has a definite slant. The footplate seems much higher over the rear wheels than the front ones.

Duchess of Atholl 3.jpg

Duchess of Atholl 2.jpg

Duchess of Atholl 1.jpg

Is yours rewheeled as well? Mine has 26mm Romfords, recently added Markits balance weights which improves things no end. Just the varnishing, nameplates, cab windows & crew figures left to do now so expect photos of 46249 in a week or two...

 

David

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Almost there,a few details to add.The Chevrons on the front gave me no end of trouble on one end,the Fox transfers are not designed to fit the raised kit chevrons so had to be applied one at a time.The first ones went on ok but the other end kept breaking but i got there in the end,not quite as neat as this end shown.

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On 21/11/2020 at 19:43, David_Belcher said:

Is yours rewheeled as well? Mine has 26mm Romfords, recently added Markits balance weights which improves things no end. Just the varnishing, nameplates, cab windows & crew figures left to do now so expect photos of 46249 in a week or two...

 

David

...and here we are. The red backed plates (a ScR thing IIRC) definitely look better than the black ones, even if they aren't stainless steel like the real life 46249 had.

 

David

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IMG_20201124_232657412.jpg

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May I ask for some advice please on behalf of a friend? He would like to sell on his collection of Hornby Dublo locomotives, carriages, track and accessories most of which are boxed. Apart from the dreaded ebay route can anyone recommend how to go about selling please? 

 

Many thanks 

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Hi Banburysaint.

There are always adverts in the back of the model railway magazines for people who want to buy full collections. Plus there is always the toy auctions. There are some specialised companies who you can find on the internet that sell just toys. Just make sure you check them out to get a good company first.

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48 minutes ago, banburysaint said:

May I ask for some advice please on behalf of a friend? He would like to sell on his collection of Hornby Dublo locomotives, carriages, track and accessories most of which are boxed. Apart from the dreaded ebay route can anyone recommend how to go about selling please? 

 

Many thanks 

Its usually better to sell individual items to maximise returns, especially when they have significant value, However its also easier to sell the lot to a firm as a Job lot though you will be lucky to get 30% of the aggregate value of the individual items.  I sold a fair few items for a friend individually on eBay, I set up an eBay account for him and paypal and administered it for him.   It was a lot of time photographing, researching realistic start points for bids etc then advertising and packing but I only charged expenses  and he was very pleased with the funds received.    Hornby Dublo prices are on the way down except possibly Mint Boxed.   I often buy small job lots, cherry pick the good bits and sell on the rest individually at a profit, and I admt, bin the dross.  Nothing has a value, its all worth what the mugs will fork out for it.   Best of luck.

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20 hours ago, David_Belcher said:

...and here we are. The red backed plates (a ScR thing IIRC) definitely look better than the black ones, even if they aren't stainless steel like the real life 46249 had.

 

David

IMG_20201124_232715544.jpg

IMG_20201124_232657412.jpg

 

On 21/11/2020 at 01:51, cypherman said:

Hi David,

This is my Duchess of Atholl after I repainted it. Tried to keep the paint the same colour as the original. looking at your photo yes it does look like it has a definite slant. The footplate seems much higher over the rear wheels than the front ones.

Duchess of Atholl 3.jpg

Duchess of Atholl 2.jpg

Duchess of Atholl 1.jpg

Great  Models both but why the yawning gap between loco and tender?  My Duchess has about 3mm gap between tender and cab and gets round 3rd radius regularly and is probably OK on 1st.  It makes a lot of difference and is a quick and easy bodge to modify the drawbar or even make a new one.  I had to grind my pole pieces away to fit 26mm drivers, Mine is scruffy now having been detailed back in about 1985, I think It has Airfix Castle bogie wheels.   It was last seen in the loft as test engine for the loft layout. 

Edited by DavidCBroad
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13 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

 

Great  Models both but why the yawning gap between loco and tender?  My Duchess has about 3mm gap between tender and cab and gets round 3rd radius regularly and is probably OK on 1st.  It makes a lot of difference and is a quick and easy bodge to modify the drawbar or even make a new one.  I had to grind my pole pieces away to fit 26mm drivers, Mine is scruffy now having been detailed back in about 1985, I think It has Airfix Castle bogie wheels.   It was last seen in the loft as test engine for the loft layout. 

I'll see how it runs first before making any tweaks.

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Hi David C,

The gap is standard for this engine. I had no wish to make it any shorter as I wanted to keep it as original as possible. The only thing I did extra on this engine was glaze the windows. Always a thing that annoyed me with H/D engines.....  No glass.

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49 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi David C,

The gap is standard for this engine. I had no wish to make it any shorter as I wanted to keep it as original as possible. The only thing I di extra on this engine was glaze the windows. Always a thing that annoyed me with H/D engines.....  No glass.

Did anyone do British steam-outline models with cab glazing until the Trix LNER Pacifics came along?

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I can't get in the loft to find the Duchess at present but here is a contemporary Triang Britannia open axlebox tender etc with an extra hole in the pony truck and a bit filed off.  Done maybe 40 years ago, still makes the tender gap on Bachmann 9Fs etc look silly especially as the Brit gets round 1st Rdius curves.   9F is at Grosmont a couple of years ago.

 

 

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Edited by DavidCBroad
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Hi David,

Did you know that Triang Hornby made little infill covers for the open axel boxes. They did not advertise them but used them on the Sir Dinadan tender to cover the holes of the old tender chassis they used. I have never tried to see whether you could buy them. Just made my own. But it would be interesting if they were still availabel as I have quite a few engines with open axel boxes. Including 2 old Britannia's. The other one I have is a silver seal tender drive engine with newer boxes.

Edited by cypherman
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I think that East Kent models had a stock of the axle box covers...

 

Any that were not sold by them would most probably gone with everything else to Peter’s Spares when they purchased the stock...

 

Small squares of plastic card would work, as long as you had no need to remove the axles...but then again, a sharp knife would remove them again!

 

Some use bits of blue tak...painted over....

 

The original Britannia and 9f tender drive tender chassis still had the bearing holes for pin point axles....as did the first type of plastic tender chassis for the LMS Black 5 and Duchess locos...

 

 

Edited by Ruffnut Thorston
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  • 4 weeks later...
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A couple of pics of my pre-Christmas “Dublo Day”, I was able to obtain clearance from SWMBO to put my 8x4 board on the dining table, a temporary layout soon followed. Rather than use HD buildings I opted for Superquick as although they have been updated over the years, I have fond memories of buying and making the kits over 50 years ago. HD purists won’t be impressed but I have opted to give an impression of the sort of layout I craved back in the early 1960s. j

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Nice.

 

The earlier Superquick kits come up on eBay, sometimes they can be cheaper than the current issues.

 

Some models have noticeably changed, like the signal box, which originally had a brick base, and now is all timber. The small station building has also changed in design.

 

Others have minor changes, such as the goods shed.

 

Some look to be unchanged, such as the church, and the Swan inn.

 

Superquick models are an interest of mine. ;)

 

 

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There are a few that don't seem to have ever changed, notably the three low-relief sets (though there was once a fourth). The church and the terminus buildings still appear to be the same as they originally were, though I have a feeling the church may have been subtly redrawn at some point. The Swan Inn replaced The Railway Arms and has preserved in model form the new for the late 1960s Ind Coope branding.

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