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Hornby dublo


ddoherty958
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Hi

Thanks for advice, plenty of food for thought.

The Shapeways doors look good but as usual postage is more than the cost of item.

Variations in maroon plastic explains the mismatched colouring on some models offered on EBay so would more than likely have to do complete repaint as suggested.

Have not seen Model Supplies UK before so they could be an option although T & Cs are a bit intimidating plus 14 day delay on posting order... Airmail to Aus is bad enough at the moment...

Cheers

 

Edited by Pak75
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Spare Doors for the horse box have always been in demand since the mid 60's, on my childhood layout we lost or broke a few well before 1970, think then we had just two one green one red.

 

Sometime in the mid 70's I moulded some using spare white metal and a plasticine mould, not very good but filled with car filler and filled down did the job. Differcult bit was getting the right shade of paint.

 

In early 90's I saw some white metal doors at Chester Chester toyfairs at about a £1 each, also saw some plastic (white)  ones in bags but even then silly prices

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Hi there, happy New Year!

May your trains run fast and true.

On balance seriously looking at Shapeways - horse box doors detail is exquisite. Will update later.

 

 

Next question is question of track fixing - what screws to use? I realise this topic is sacrilegious to some... SWMBO is getting fed up of a room being taken up by trial layout and I am soon to be banished to newly renovated sheds.

Have looked at www, read various fora and have located these 10 x 2 mm flat head screws.

 

http://www.alansrobinson.co.uk/model railway track pins and track screws.html

 

Anyone any experience of these or other suggestions?

 Thanks 

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IIRC Meccano Ltd. recommended  no. 6 wood screws for track fixing. They should not be overtightened. (Second hand track offered for sale often shows signs of this (or the use of countersink rather than round head screws) and as far as I'm concerned stays on offer.)

 

Those screws look ideal however!

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Number 3 x 3/8" roundhead actually.Pity that we can`t get black japanned ones.I now use M2.5 black self tapping screws in various lengths,they also have the advantage of being no.0 Philips crosshead screws which makes it easier to use a screwdriver in my dotage.

 

                           Ray.

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I need to remember to check first! (Not having the instructions to hand....)

 

On reflection, 3/8" - 10mm screws only have about 1/4" to screw into the board, which, considering the prevalence of fibre boards back then, probably explains the overtightening.

 

On my layout (which stayed solidly where it was!), I left most of the track loose. Places where the track tended to move were dissuaded by pieces of cardboard (ex supermarket box) glued to fit under the trackbase and stop it shifting sideways. The track then just pushed into place over the card.

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Thanks Ray and David.

I like idea of glued cardboard to keep track in place. Will use combination of cardboard and screws as layout is still evolving, easier to fill a screw hole.

Have had problems before with screws in MDF so will use plywood as a base.

Cheers

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I used 3g x 1/2 round headed wood screws to fix all the track on my layout (and 2g x 1/2 for fixing down the accessories) and everything has stayed in place nicely.  Just make sure the screws don't have wide heads, or you'll run the risk of shorts with the screw heads touching the centre rail.  I think it only happened three or four with me and, each time, it was a slightly bent centre rail that was the culprit.

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11 hours ago, rockershovel said:

Tell us more about it?

I had this on order for over two years,John had to have had twenty orders to make repairing the moulds and ordering parts and finding doner locos to make it viable.This loco was from a batch of twenty that he built recently.It has two Dublo half inch motors in specially milled chassis units fitted with 2-6-4 tank loco valve gear and front pony trucks.Well worth the wait!.

20210323_102602.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just got myself a Duchess of Atholl (yes, another one) which was supposedly only suitable for parts or restoration.  The paintwork (what was left of it) was in a sorry state on the tender but slightly better, although very much the worse for wear with one front step broken, on the locomotive.  I knew it was an early example but, when I took the body off, I could see that it was older than I was expecting.  Open spokes on the tender wheels and, on the locomotive chassis, a horseshoe motor with no interference suppressor and a front bogie with a vertical hooked bar like a Dublo A4.  It didn't run too well at first but, with a bit of adjustment to the top bearing and all moving parts lubricated, it took off and ran pretty well, consuming only 0.5 amps.  The wheels and pickup need a really good clean, so hopefully it will run even better afterwards.

 

I am thinking I might swap the body and tender with that on my existing Atholl (the paintwork on the loco is very good and the tender is near mint) and repaint this one in some other livery. Somehow it seems more appropriate for a horseshoe chassis to be used under an original LMS Atholl than under a repaint.

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My horseshoe Duchess goes like the proverbial clappers of hell. She had been fitted with wheels nearer to the correct diameter (26mm I assume, I never measured them), which made things even worse, so she now has the proper size Dublo wheels.

The Dublo model is only correct for a short period during the war (1944 IIRC) between fitting with a double chimney and receiving the black livery. By the time the model appeared (1948), she had acquired a pair of blinkers and a streamlined tender (modified) as well. I suppose it was decided that crimson would be more attractive than black (or they had already acquired the paint).

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LMS_Coronation_Class

 

Edited by Il Grifone
Trying to use an Italian keyboard set to English characters!
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21 hours ago, Wolseley said:

It didn't run too well at first but, with a bit of adjustment to the top bearing and all moving parts lubricated, it took off and ran pretty well, consuming only 0.5 amps.  The wheels and pickup need a really good clean, so hopefully it will run even better afterwards.

 

I am thinking I might swap the body and tender with that on my existing Atholl (the paintwork on the loco is very good and the tender is near mint) and repaint this one in some other livery. Somehow it seems more appropriate for a horseshoe chassis to be used under an original LMS Atholl than under a repaint.

 

Well, I cleaned up the wheels and, although it looks a lot better, it didn't make much difference.  I fitted it with the body and tender from my other Atholl, coupled it to two Trix "scale-length" LMS coaches (fitted with Dublo metal wheels), and it took off just as well as it did when I ran the chassis only, but now it was consuming 0.65 amps, give or take a bit.

 

Another difference I noticed is that the trailing truck on the early Atholl is hollow at the back, whereas all my other Duchesses have it filled in, presumably to give extra weight to prevent derailing in reverse.

 

And, on the subject of LMS maroon Duchesses, the Duchess of Sutherland ran in pre-war maroon when first fitted with double chimney and smoke deflectors, the only Duchess to do so (due to war time shortages of paint maybe?).  There is a photograph of it in this form in David Jenkinson's Profile of the Duchesses.  I have repainted a Duchess of Montrose in maroon to represent this, but I haven't finished all the lining yet.

Edited by Wolseley
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=

 

On 16/12/2021 at 14:16, MikeCW said:

 

That's a nice conversion.

 

 

Did you reverse the magnet so that the engine would run "right way" i.e. not run in reverse when all the other original 3-rail engines ran forward?

 

 

Mike

Hi Mike

Missed this comment..... in my enthusiasm for the conversion actually working, I did not realise locomotive was indeed running backward. Rotated circular magnet so red spot went to top then had to turn it around back to front.

Running beautifully....

Same happened with 0-6-0, magnet had to be turned around back to front. Magnet has a channel in it for screw so lucky there was space in body to accomodate magnet now sticking out towards rear.

Running well.

Jim - an EBay Duchess of Atholl? You outbid me :)

Cheers

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8 hours ago, Pak75 said:

Jim - an EBay Duchess of Atholl? You outbid me :)

Cheers

 

Yes, it was.  When I saw a horseshoe motored example at a reasonable price I thought it was worth a go to try to add one to my collection of Duchesses.  I now have 9 examples with the curved front to the footplate though, and as this is the same number that the LMS had, I won't be bidding on any more that might appear on eBay.

 

Jim

Edited by Wolseley
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You need a CPR example in black!

 

https://www.google.com

 

My conversion (i.e. fake) is still on hold (covid). I think the substitute pilot casting I bought is no longer available. It-s rather cruder than the Dublo one and needs a bit of work with a file.

This one from 'our friend' looks interesting!  An 8 wheel tender would be more appropriate, but unfortunately a Dublo A4 tender does not couple properly to a Duchess due to the different drawbar height. Yes,  it is a repaint in my opinion. AFAIK there never was an ED3? The return crank has been refitted at the wrong angle.

The Price seems a trifle excessive, but that is normal for this seller.

Edited by Il Grifone
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On 11/01/2022 at 06:48, Wolseley said:

I just got myself a Duchess of Atholl (yes, another one) which was supposedly only suitable for parts or restoration.  The paintwork (what was left of it) was in a sorry state on the tender but slightly better, although very much the worse for wear with one front step broken, on the locomotive.  I knew it was an early example but, when I took the body off, I could see that it was older than I was expecting.  Open spokes on the tender wheels and, on the locomotive chassis, a horseshoe motor with no interference suppressor and a front bogie with a vertical hooked bar like a Dublo A4.  It didn't run too well at first but, with a bit of adjustment to the top bearing and all moving parts lubricated, it took off and ran pretty well, consuming only 0.5 amps.  The wheels and pickup need a really good clean, so hopefully it will run even better afterwards.

 

I am thinking I might swap the body and tender with that on my existing Atholl (the paintwork on the loco is very good and the tender is near mint) and repaint this one in some other livery. Somehow it seems more appropriate for a horseshoe chassis to be used under an original LMS Atholl than under a repaint.

Hi Wolseley,

Why not go the whole hog with the engine and give it a nice new coat of paint. It might end up looking like mine. It is a fairly simple engine to repaint as original.

post-21711-0-65024800-1446987601.jpg

post-21711-0-85862400-1446987475.jpg

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5 hours ago, Il Grifone said:

You need a CPR example in black!

 

https://www.google.com

 

My conversion (i.e. fake) is still on hold (covid). I think the substitute pilot casting I bought is no longer available. It-s rather cruder than the Dublo one and needs a bit of work with a file.

 

It's a shame that those conversion kits have disappeared from the market.  They included the cowcatcher, headlight and transfers.  I converted a Montrose (I didn't have a spare Atholl at the time) using one of them.

 

CPR.jpg.8846106370adf8eae88b8942d47a9725.jpg

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3 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi Wolseley,

Why not go the whole hog with the engine and give it a nice new coat of paint. It might end up looking like mine. It is a fairly simple engine to repaint as original.

 

 

I had a very original and perfectly good Atholl body and tender that I ended up fitting to it.  However I will end up repainting the body and tender that it was fitted with when I bought it.  I just haven't decided what livery to use.  Probably in BR blue, but time will tell.

 

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