Peco Set Track Points

[RateTheFreight]

Afternoon all,

 

Hopefully a quick question to answer. Has anyone tried to run larger Heljan RTR (think Western, class 37, etc) locos over Peco’s set track points (the ones designed for smaller layouts). Before I purchase I want to make sure i could run larger locos on the small shunting layout I’m building.

 

Cheers

 

Greg

[csvt2004]

I have just tried my Heljan class 40 over a set. The locomotive makes it ok, but if you have anything coupled to the loco, then that buffer locks and derails every time.

[RateTheFreight]

Thanks for taking the time to check, much appreciated. Do you think the buffer lock might of been down to the length of the Class 40/it’s bogie size of would likely be an issue with any larger loco?

 

Cheers

 

Greg

[csvt2004]

I just tried it with a class 20. Same result. If you are using scale couplings then the only way I have been able to negotiate it is to uncouple and then propel. I do have some mineral wagons fitted with Kadee couplers and they work fine, but of course the buffers are not touching at all and that may not be acceptable?

[daifly]

The bogie length should be of little consequence since the buffers are attached to the body. It will be the geometry of the loco - bogie centres v overall length - that would give you a clue. I have to ask the question why would you buy the short radius 'trainset' points if you are contemplating using large locos? The 'trainset' points are 22mm shorter than the normal medium-radius Peco points.The major difference is the turnout angle which is only ever going to work properly with short-wheelbase locos and wagons. Even prototype dock lock locos had huge buffers to avoid buffer locking.

Dave

[RateTheFreight]

Both, thanks for the replies. The thing about using ‘larger locos’ was more about adding some variety and being able to run some diesel locos I like. I suppose in theory I could still run them albeit as light locos.

 

Does the same buffer lock and derailment occur if hauling vice propelling?

 

As a novice to all this, why are smaller RTR locos such as terriers, jinty’s, panniers and 08’s able to negotiate the points when coupled to wagons without suffering buffer lock and derailment?

 

My layout is only the length of a door and so the Peco medium radius points don’t seem to fit in the configuration I need (think inglenook). From the templates it also looked like you’d have to cut away sleepers in order to attach track.

 

Greg

[RedgateModels]

My Big Big Hymek can't shunt in the goods shed on Fourgig East due to the tight radius curves used. Simple solution - the loco potters off and simmers in a siding whilst the resident 0-4-0 loco does the shunting

[RateTheFreight]

Out of interest, for anyone who has used Peco’s medium radius right or left hand points, what’s the clearance like in terms of adjacent/adjoining roads? I’ve probably not explained it well however i’m wondering whether indeed I could use the medium radius points vice the set track ones in the same space (door is 1981mm x 610mm) with some compromise on sidings length. Provided two of the sidings can accommodate 2 x 4 wheel wagons and the longest one can accommodate 5 x wagons (3 x if compromising) then I’d be happy.

 

Greg

[DCB]

Th

 

Out of interest, for anyone who has used Peco’s medium radius right or left hand points, what’s the clearance like in terms of adjacent/adjoining roads? I’ve probably not explained it well however i’m wondering whether indeed I could use the medium radius points vice the set track ones in the same space (door is 1981mm x 610mm) with some compromise on sidings length. Provided two of the sidings can accommodate 2 x 4 wheel wagons and the longest one can accommodate 5 x wagons (3 x if compromising) then I’d be happy.

Greg

The 2ft (nominal) radius Streamline is around the same length as the set track but much gentler radius being around 19" at its tightest compared to 15" on the set track. Most RTR can cope with 19" radius (3rd radius) even big diesel even if they do look mildly daft doing so, but many can't cope with set track points reliably, and £150 of loco sliding down the track on its side isn't pretty.

Set track on a small layout is a waste of space, quite literally.  The set track track spacing is approx 60mm to allow clearance for long overhang Pacifics and long coaches to pass on 1st and 2nd radius curves.  Standard Streamline is 2" / 50mm. I often use 44mm. (see pic)

The Streamline Y point is shorter than the set track left or right hand and at nominal 2ft radius allows modern RTR, like the Hattons 14XX to run. ( See Crewlisle for inspiration he has a facing 2ft Y on his main line)   The 2ft radius left and right hand points are virtually the same length as the Set track and give closer rail spacing.  I would bin the set track points and close up the track spacing to 50mm Streamllne centres or better still 44mm and use the extra space for scenery or more sidings.   For anything bigger than micro layouts the 3ft medium radius Streamline point looks and runs much better

Set track points can be handy if you restrict your locos to 0-4-0s as you can live frog the points and generally carve bits off to create fiendishly sharp curved over complicated trackwork like many industrial complexes found themselves lumbered with after the track evoluted through the years

[Happy Hippo]

Do Peco still do the down loadable templates you could print out and lay on the door to see what would fit?

 

Edit:

 

Just checked the Peco website and they do not yet issue the 40.5" radius turnout as a downloadable plan.

 

Easy enough to draw one on Templot through.

Edited July 30, 2018 by Happy Hippo

[csvt2004]

 

Peco Y point nearest camera, then set track.

[ossygobbin]

Do Peco still do the down loadable templates you could print out and lay on the door to see what would fit?

 

Edit:

 

Just checked the Peco website and they do not yet issue the 40.5" radius turnout as a downloadable plan.

 

Easy enough to draw one on Templot through.

tower models have the plans for the setrack points to download

[RateTheFreight]

Setrtack points.jpg

 

Peco Y point nearest camera, then set track.

Thanks for this pic, really useful. As suspected it looks as if when joining set track straights (the 400m ones or any for that matter) to either the Y point or medium radius points some cutting of the sleeper to make them fit is required but doesn’t look challenging. I’ve got some templates made up at home and so will see how they fit. As David stated I suspect I will be able to fit them in but will just need to slightly re-jig where they sit to get the same inglenook siding effect.

 

Greg

[RateTheFreight]

Had a quick mock up using the medium radius points and Y point templates and it appears it all fits in theory so I should be able to do as I originally wanted and be able to shunt with larger than 060 locos should the fancy take.

 

Greg

Edited July 30, 2018 by RateTheFreight

[south_tyne]

I would agree with the above advice. Having recently been mocking up an inglenook using the Peco templates, the setrack doesn't really offer any discernable space saing on the standard medium radius and Y point. Certainly the latter looks better in my humble opinion. The combination of a couple of Y points in particular offers a nice flow.

 

As mentioned, all the templates can be downloaded from the Tower Models website.

[ossygobbin]

if you cut the silly curves off the set track points you can get 100mm centres (medium radius 80mm)  and save about 210mm in length on a crossover.

[DCB]

Setrtack points.jpg

 

Peco Y point nearest camera, then set track.

That's one place (alongside a point converging on another point) where set track doesn't work. The base is too rigid. I ideally I would use flexi here but whether set track or flexi was used  I would trim back the sleeper base  about 10 sleepers from the end of the Set track,   It will break off. Pull off he set track fishplate (it will break off). Clean up the rails with a file.  Then I would take a piece of flexi and cut the webs between sleepers and remove about a dozen sleepers.  Thread them onto the set track and wriggle the set track beside the point.  Interlace the sleepers as far as possible then cut sleeper ends away on both point and straight track as they converge.If any sleepers are cut too short slide fresh ones on to replace them.  With spare sleepers with deep grooves cut where the rail chairs used to be so they fit under the fishplates you can make a convincing, though not prototypically correct, array of sleepers.