Wentworth Junction

[Woodcock29]

 

The Garratts are lovely models, and I never realised they had 16 spoke wheels rather than the 14 found on GC 8 coupled locos, one day I might do my DJH kit.

John.

 

The garratt did have 14 spoke wheels.

 

The wheels included in the early DJH kits were wrong - mind you Romford probably didn't make 14 spoke 18mm wheels in 1983 when the kit was first released?

 

It would be a very expensive exercise for me to rewheel my garratt with Markits wheels! So I haven't bothered.

 

Andrew

[Michael Edge]

Both these kits were built with the wheels that came in the kit, DJH often put the wrong wheels in even when better ones were available. The one I built deviates a lot from the kit but for this customer I stayed with the Romfords, if it had been for me it would have had Gibson wheels.

[Woodcock29]

Both these kits were built with the wheels that came in the kit, DJH often put the wrong wheels in even when better ones were available. The one I built deviates a lot from the kit but for this customer I stayed with the Romfords, if it had been for me it would have had Gibson wheels.

Hi Mike

 

I also made a number of changes or added additional details to my garratt. Its also the only kit I've built as soon as I got it - 1983 seems along time ago now.

 

Great work on the S1.

 

Andrew

[Michael Edge]

It's a good kit, no major errors but I rarely build exactly what comes in the box for myself or other customers.

[Sandhole]

The 0-8-4 looks superb, Mike. Might you be persuaded to bring it to Manchester so we could see it in the metal, so to speak?

I did not build the U1 that sits on my trainset, Brian Wiltshire did, but I remember, good grief!! 30 years ago!!! he enjoyed building it.

She has no place at Oldham Rd but I've always loved the loco so Rule 1 applies!!

                                                                                   C.

[Michael Edge]

I'll bring it along, might even be finished by then! We have sold a few of these etches but I think I may do a revision to cover the ex booster locos better.

[Sandhole]

I'll bring it along, might even be finished by then! We have sold a few of these etches but I think I may do a revision to cover the ex booster locos better.

Thanks.

I'll see you at Warley all being well as well as Manchester.

                                                      Chris.

[Michael Edge]

Baseboards delivered this morning, we had a little difficulty with the down end corner and it's had to go back for modifications but the rest all fitted easily.

 

View from the down end, looking downhill.

 

 

Up end corner, joined on to the fiddle yard board.

 

 

Most of the baseboards are open top, the scenery will slope down from the viewing side, the line runs along the side of the valley here.

 

 

This is the site of the junction, colliery branch off to the inside. The 1 in 40 gradient starts here, the banker siding (nearest) and the remains of the line to Sovereign pit (far side) are level. The pit siding should really follow the gradient but it would be difficult to park wagons in here if I did that so I've cheated a bit.

[Michael Edge]

Down corner now in place and all joints tightened up and smoothed.

 

 

Views up and down the 1 in 40, pit branch curves away on the level, banker siding and former Sovereign pit siding also level.

 

 

 

The lifting section will now have to be packed up by 65mm with a corresponding gradient down the fiddle yard. I'll do this by fitting adjustable feet to the baseboard legs.

 

Templot drawing of the junction pointwork printed out and taped together - laid out on the boards a little adjustment will be needed to keep the pointwork matching the baseboard joints.

 

 

 

I can start building the pointwork now, this will be in EM-2 (00 SF/16.3mm gauge - whatever you want to call it), on the bench in the workshop - it's a bit cold outside today.

[cheesysmith]

have you thought of using this for the banking engines?

 

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/15068?page=1

[Michael Edge]

Interesting idea but what;s the problem it's trying to overcome?

[Guest Bri.s]

Nice progress Michael

 

Brian

[cheesysmith]

The idea behind the magnetic eddy flywheel (for want of a better term) is it does away with ensuring locos in multi (or bankers) having to be speed matched. If the load is too much for the lead loco, the flywheel will slip loosing traction, and the banking engine can be set at a slower speed and will push. When the lead loco has enough traction to pull the train it would leave the banking engine behind.

 

Sounds daft, but I did a similar idea years ago n my kids play layout round their bedroom. A little Hornby smokey joe rocket with some wagon, and when it encountered the uphill gradient it would slip to a stand. A Bachmann 08 would follow it round, catch up, and push the train up the hill. When it got to the top, the smokey joe would pull away with the twain, and the 08 would be diverted into a siding.

 

Real life banking in model form. Not just for looks but was required. Also quite fun.

[Michael Edge]

The snag with this is that the Worsbourough bankers were coupled on. In practice speed matching isn't very important but it does help to have the banking locos going a bit faster than the train engines. For full electric operation when the bankers came on at Wombwell I might build some non powered EM1s for some trains.

[Michael Edge]

Back to the S1 now, time to build and fit the boiler

For most of these "etches only" we supply drawings with paper patterns for the parts not on the sheet. Boiler and firebox are both simple rectangles, it's hardly worth etching them, the process described below is very easy.

 

 

The patterns are cut out and stuck on to sheet metal with double sided tape, I use .010" nickel silver for fireboxes and .010" brass for boilers.

 

 

To cut straight lines, first cut through the paper and tape with a sharp blade, then use a tool like the one seen here to scribe a deep line along the metal. This tool is ground from an ordinary No11 scalpel blade and has been in use for years with very occasional re-sharpening. This is held in the vice and gently eased backwards and forwards until the metal snaps, remember this works more easily in one direction on the sheet (lengthways as it was rolled) than the other and take care that it only bends on the scribed line. Repeat for the other three sides and also cut (with a sharp blade) along all the cladding band lines, I also drilled out the mudhole door positions with a .5mm drill.

 

 

The bend lines for the corners are printed on the pattern, hold the firebox like this and gently form the corners round a steel bar (3/16" diameter in this case). The metal will distort a little near the mudhole door holes but this isn't significant as etched covers will be soldered over them later.

 

 

Check the width at both ends, should be 22mm but this is close enough. The bends can be moved slightly by rolling a little further or back towards the centre and flattening the centre or sides - also make sure that the firebox is flat along the top.

 

 

Completed firebox top soldered to the cab front and checked for height above the bottom of the footplate angle, check this at the front end as well before soldering the firebox sides to the tanks.

 

 

I can't find any clear photos of the top of the tanks of an S1, I'm sure the inner sides are above the tops but have no idea how high so I've soldered 1mm angle under the tank top and protruding slightly above. To do this I had to remove the etched bar across the tank tops so I added a temporary strap at the front first.

 

 

Boiler rolled and soldered along the joint at the bottom, a notch cut in the top up to the first cladding band so that it will sit level with the firebox top. A short strap soldered under the firebox top to stop the boiler dropping as it is fitted.

 

 

Hole cut in the bottom of the boiler to make room for the motor, drive will be on either the third or fourth axle. Smokebox front and riveted wrapper are etched, the front end of the boiler is thickened with another layer of brass.

 

 

Completed smokebox from below, the front was soldered on first and the edges slightly rounded before the wrapper was formed and soldered on, the front protrudes slightly. I also reinforced the lower sides of the wrapper and soldered a bar across the back. This bar will also lock in the Plastic Padding filler which will complete the back of the smokebox - it's not really worth doing this in metal on most locos, filler is much easier and neater.

 

 

The smokebox fits neatly between the frames at the front end, soldered here on the outside - it will be hidden by the "piano front" valve chest cover. This is the last chance to check that the loco is straight and not twisted, before soldering the boiler to the firebox check that both buffer beams sit flat on a surface (this is why the steps have been left off so far) and the footplate is straight on both sides. Once the boiler is locked in by soldering to the firebox top and the tank sides nothing will twist the loco body again, this is most of the torsional stiffness of the whole model.

 

 

 

 

 

[jrg1]

Back to the S1 now, time to build and fit the boiler

For most of these "etches only" we supply drawings with paper patterns for the parts not on the sheet. Boiler and firebox are both simple rectangles, it's hardly worth etching them, the process described below is very easy.

 

WP_20181211_16_13_25_Pro.jpg

 

The patterns are cut out and stuck on to sheet metal with double sided tape, I use .010" nickel silver for fireboxes and .010" brass for boilers.

 

WP_20181211_16_14_45_Pro.jpg

 

To cut straight lines, first cut through the paper and tape with a sharp blade, then use a tool like the one seen here to scribe a deep line along the metal. This tool is ground from an ordinary No11 scalpel blade and has been in use for years with very occasional re-sharpening. This is held in the vice and gently eased backwards and forwards until the metal snaps, remember this works more easily in one direction on the sheet (lengthways as it was rolled) than the other and take care that it only bends on the scribed line. Repeat for the other three sides and also cut (with a sharp blade) along all the cladding band lines, I also drilled out the mudhole door positions with a .5mm drill.

 

WP_20181211_16_26_30_Pro.jpg

 

The bend lines for the corners are printed on the pattern, hold the firebox like this and gently form the corners round a steel bar (3/16" diameter in this case). The metal will distort a little near the mudhole door holes but this isn't significant as etched covers will be soldered over them later.

 

WP_20181211_16_30_43_Pro.jpg

 

Check the width at both ends, should be 22mm but this is close enough. The bends can be moved slightly by rolling a little further or back towards the centre and flattening the centre or sides - also make sure that the firebox is flat along the top.

 

WP_20181211_16_59_23_Pro.jpg

 

Completed firebox top soldered to the cab front and checked for height above the bottom of the footplate angle, check this at the front end as well before soldering the firebox sides to the tanks.

 

WP_20181211_17_12_05_Pro.jpg

 

I can't find any clear photos of the top of the tanks of an S1, I'm sure the inner sides are above the tops but have no idea how high so I've soldered 1mm angle under the tank top and protruding slightly above. To do this I had to remove the etched bar across the tank tops so I added a temporary strap at the front first.

 

WP_20181211_17_45_30_Pro.jpg

 

Boiler rolled and soldered along the joint at the bottom, a notch cut in the top up to the first cladding band so that it will sit level with the firebox top. A short strap soldered under the firebox top to stop the boiler dropping as it is fitted.

 

WP_20181212_09_34_05_Pro.jpg

 

Hole cut in the bottom of the boiler to make room for the motor, drive will be on either the third or fourth axle. Smokebox front and riveted wrapper are etched, the front end of the boiler is thickened with another layer of brass.

 

WP_20181212_10_43_30_Pro.jpg

 

Completed smokebox from below, the front was soldered on first and the edges slightly rounded before the wrapper was formed and soldered on, the front protrudes slightly. I also reinforced the lower sides of the wrapper and soldered a bar across the back. This bar will also lock in the Plastic Padding filler which will complete the back of the smokebox - it's not really worth doing this in metal on most locos, filler is much easier and neater.

 

WP_20181212_10_49_38_Pro.jpg

 

The smokebox fits neatly between the frames at the front end, soldered here on the outside - it will be hidden by the "piano front" valve chest cover. This is the last chance to check that the loco is straight and not twisted, before soldering the boiler to the firebox check that both buffer beams sit flat on a surface (this is why the steps have been left off so far) and the footplate is straight on both sides. Once the boiler is locked in by soldering to the firebox top and the tank sides nothing will twist the loco body again, this is most of the torsional stiffness of the whole model.

Absolutely great modelling and first class tips and hints-keep it up!

[Enterprisingwestern]

The snag with this is that the Worsbourough bankers were coupled on. In practice speed matching isn't very important but it does help to have the banking locos going a bit faster than the train engines. For full electric operation when the bankers came on at Wombwell I might build some non powered EM1s for some trains.

 

Thinking out loud about the non powered loco's, presumably they will be at the front of the train to keep the couplings tight?

 

Mike.

[Michael Edge]

I'm not thinking of going as far as MGR operation with four EM1s per train, probably just one banker hanging on the back but I'll have to see how it works first anyway.

[Dave Holt]

I think you've got a bit of time to think about this aspect. There's the minor issue of building the layout first.

Dave.

[Michael Edge]

I did some tests with the 1 in 40 gradient when I first got the fiddle yard boards assembled, details on page one of the Herculaneum Dock thread. Everything seemed to work OK but the actual motive power will be different.

[Michael Edge]

Back to the S1

 

 

I've taken a mould off the 1'6" built up chimney I turned for 69901. BluTack dam round the chimney and rubber poured in, it didn't seal as well I wanted but the excess is fairly easy to remove. I'll do the same another time with the steampipe covers.

 

 

Remaining details added to the boiler now, snifting valve behind the chimney and handrails, smokebox door left out to get at the inside to solder the handrail pillars. Forming this type of handrail is never easy.

 

 

Moulded smokebox door now fitted, the GC wheel had been replaced by a twin handle arrangement, the top lamp bracket bent from .010" n/s strip and pegged into the door.

 

 

One last job on the top is the cab roof ventilator. Sometimes it's not possible to solder everything from the inside, the rails for the ventilator are soldered on from the outside after marking the position with dividers. It's easy to clean the solder away from this and the 2% silver solder spreads out into a very thin layer. I can't find any clear photos of the roof of an S1, nearly all seem to have been taken from a low angle, this is the best guess. The wire soldered on here is filed flatter and two sliding vents glued in between.

I can't find anything showing the inside of the cab either, it's not very visible and presumably the backhead is much the same as an O4 but what did the reverser control look like? The S1 had steam reverse, not lever or screw.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[St Enodoc]

Forming this type of handrail is never easy.

I thought that was just me! Any tips?

[richard i]

I like you know some but not everything gcr related. Oh that mr. Quick was on the forum his depth of knowledge could no doubt answer this and probably with a photo from his collection too.

Great looking loco and skill on the hand rail and boiler fittings.

Richard

[Michael Edge]

I thought that was just me! Any tips?

 

I put the horizontal handrail pillars in with temporary straight wires on each side, then use round nose pliers to form the first bend round the side of the smokebox. The next bend usually made with smooth flat pliers, form the top over a suitable sized rod or tube and thread the top handrail pillar on before proceeding with the last two bends. They usually need a fair bit of adjustment to fit, moving the bends along with combinations of the above tools. In 7mm it's not too difficult to join the handrail inside the top pillar which means that each side bend can be formed separately, the two halves fitted and snipped to length before soldering in. The small size of the handrail pillars makes this a bit delicate in 4mm scale though.

[Michael Edge]

It's been a bit warmer in the shed this week so more progress with cork laying on the baseboards - this is the first layout of mine with cork underlay, all the others have had track glued direct to the boards. Experience with Carlisle has led to this change of opinion.

 

 

 

Not enough weights to do more than a few pieces at one time but my very heavy toolbox proved useful for this job.