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Hi,

I think I have found some mistakes in the instructions... the buffers require a drill of 1.3 not 1.2mm  as they are 1.25mm diameter and after looking at Paul Bartlett's photo site I see the air res is at the same end as the activator and hand brake wheel on the bogie not the opposite as the instructions indicate.

Cheers

Duncan 

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Your doing well with those Duncan, they look good!  Not being critical, but is the yellow line on the left hand side one slightly 'wavy' - the others look dead straight!  Not criticising as I doubt I could get it that straight, but something doesn't quite look right.

 

Rich

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9 hours ago, PaulCheffus said:

Hi

 

I found five was about my limit at once so it’s quite impressive to see you tackling eight at once.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

'Impressive' or stupid?

It is a challenging prospect to do all eight!

 

9 hours ago, MarshLane said:

Your doing well with those Duncan, they look good!  Not being critical, but is the yellow line on the left hand side one slightly 'wavy' - the others look dead straight!  Not criticising as I doubt I could get it that straight, but something doesn't quite look right.

 

Rich

 

Hi,

Thanks Paul and Rich for your kind comments. You may well be right Rich, I thought  the same, but decided to remask up when the inner etched ends are complte and make some corrections. There is also some overspray, which I will disguise when I weather the wagons! Ssh don't tell anyone!

Cheers

Duncan

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7 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

Very nice weathering on the tanks, but, the centre hatch was a sample point and as such wouldn't tend to be as heavily stained as the filling hatches.

 

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/?q=TEA

 

Mike.

Thanks for that Mike, now you tell me!:smile_mini2: In my defence I have to say I worked from various photos..... but will take your valuable advice on board. Many thanks.

Cheers

Duncan

 

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10 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

Very nice weathering on the tanks, but, the centre hatch was a sample point and as such wouldn't tend to be as heavily stained as the filling hatches.

 

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/?q=TEA

 

Mike.

Thanks for that Mike, now you tell me!:smile_mini2: In my defence I have to say I worked from various photos..... but will take your valuable advice on board. Many thanks.

Cheers

Duncan

 

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Second Intermission

Hi,

A second commission has seen me weathering HAAs. There's already over 140 on Shirebrook so I think I can call myself experienced. An added complication was for me to match to some that my client had had previously weathered... my client and I were happy with the result.

In the background you can see my other ongoing project (for me this time) the Seacows.

Cheers

Duncan

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The Good, The Bad and The Unfortunate

Bit of a general catch up. The Bad, I have built the Seacows incorrectly. The etches for the stanchions and the hopper operating gear at the opposite end to the air res (middle seacow in the photo) I folded as per instruction, except the instruction was a little vague as to the precise order, anyway you can see that the horizontal bar is behind the stanchion instead of in front as on the other ends (other seacows in the photo). As I was batch building I managed to do all eight wrongly. I have requested replacement etches so I can have another go....

The Good, well that would be the 08 shunter modification I have started. I am making a model of the triple grey liveried 08 418 that was stationed at Shirebrook. However it did not carry all the solebar 'boxes' that the Farish model carries.  In the photo you can see I have removed the extra box and attempted to represent the doors to the engine compartment instead. I used some spare etch for this filed to size.

And I am The Unfortunate as I have to re fold glue and prepare the etches on the seacows, but that may take a while. So The Invasion of the Seacows is on hold.

Cheers

Duncan

 

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13 hours ago, DavidMcKenzie said:

Cracking video Duncan, outstanding modeling shown off at it's best. The long rakes are especially impressive, something that doesn't always come across in the photos. 

 

Thanks for sharing, all the best,

Dave

 

12 hours ago, EWS FAN said:

Superb video Duncan. Are you attending any shows this year with Shirebrook ?

Morning,

Yes Shirebrook will be attending two shows this year, but not in the West Midlands Area! 

Our first booking will be the Scarborough show 22 and 23 August. This show is actually held in Pickering close to the North Yorkshire Moors (Preserved) Railway- that would make for a great weekend trip from the West Midlands.

Our other outing this year will not be until October when we shall be at the Wigan Show. That has good links with the West Midlands. Dave I know each would be a challenge for you to Attend!

Cheers

Duncan

Thanks for your kind comments about the video, we are glad you enjoyed it.

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This is one of my all-time favourite N Gauge layouts. The video is great but does show some of the short-comings of N Gauge.

 

1. The Rapido coupling really does need removing if at all possible - the class 108 would look so much better with pipe fitted.

 

2. Red tail lamps switched on look worse than leaving the lights off whilst hauling a train; The same's true for the head-lights on the rear most class 20. Next 18 sockets help a lot but it's not too tricky to modify a standard Farish loco to separate the red lights onto additional function outputs on the current Zimo decoders.

 

Keep up the good work; I can feel trips to Scarborough and Wigan coming later this year...

 

Steven B.

 

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3 hours ago, Steven B said:

This is one of my all-time favourite N Gauge layouts. The video is great but does show some of the short-comings of N Gauge.

 

1. The Rapido coupling really does need removing if at all possible - the class 108 would look so much better with pipe fitted.

 

2. Red tail lamps switched on look worse than leaving the lights off whilst hauling a train; The same's true for the head-lights on the rear most class 20. Next 18 sockets help a lot but it's not too tricky to modify a standard Farish loco to separate the red lights onto additional function outputs on the current Zimo decoders.

 

Keep up the good work; I can feel trips to Scarborough and Wigan coming later this year...

 

Steven B.

 

Hi Steve,

Yes for sure, all the various scales have their compromises! I am DC not DCC so the lights are an unfortunate issue, not a problem for locos without lighting!  It would be great if on off switches could be fitted to all locos such is found on the Dapol 33 and now the 50 I understand.

Will look forward to seeing you at the shows-please do introduce yourself.

Cheers

Duncan

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2 hours ago, Duncan. said:

Hi Steve,

Yes for sure, all the various scales have their compromises! I am DC not DCC so the lights are an unfortunate issue, not a problem for locos without lighting!  It would be great if on off switches could be fitted to all locos such is found on the Dapol 33 and now the 50 I understand.

Will look forward to seeing you at the shows-please do introduce yourself.

Cheers

Duncan

Hi Duncan,

 

I am no electrical guru, so I am happy if someone can suggest a better way. But I managed to dull down the tail light on a DVT that looked far too red by installing a resistor on one of the cables leading to/from the lights (I am also using DC only).

 

Might be too much of a pain to bother fiddling with, but thought I'd mention it should you ever get bugged by the red tail lights being too bright and want to do something about it. 

 

All the best,

Dave

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