Jump to content
 

Life in a Northern Town


Neil
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

They look excellent Neil. Very robust. Just what could be employed on Balcombe. The current method of point control is the old school wire-in-tube (piano wire in brass tube) and using quality slide switches from RS Components. Not cheap but very robust and 'commercial'. Nothing like the cheapo rubbish that the model trade palms us off with.

 

The weakness is the cu/clad tie bar actuation. This design looks potentially what we need.  Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

Just time for a quick round up of progress as tea is almost ready. First up refurbishment of a Slaters NER hopper, a ready built gift from Martin Wales, I've reset some of the joints, done a bit of filling, attached handrails and tension locks and at the moment it's part way through the paint shop. The photo shows it at an earlier stage of completion.

 

1544012957_yk077.jpg.52f279910c1208ba58b57cc98ee2fd3d.jpg

 

Secondly I've made a start on installing the point levers shown a few posts earlier. They still await the associated micro switches fixing in position. The screws only arrived a couple of hours ago.

 

1540249710_yk078.jpg.72e30678ec037ed64a8ab41d43ee5ba9.jpg

 

1085109872_yk079.jpg.576fe57482681b04812e6715a86a7755.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 13
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Also progressing alongside the hopper has been an ex-LMS steel van from the Cambrian kit. I built it six or seven years ago but never got round to finishing it. Originally built for EM gauge I had to replace a missing buffer and brake lever, pop in some OO wheelsets and equip it with tension lock couplings. The body already had a coat of grey applied but everything else was in virgin plastic. Yesterday after the basic paintwork was in place I embarked on weathering the van. I thought I'd use the opportunity to describe the simple process I use for vehicles that rust.

 

1440115671_yk082.jpg.c904d7a3a093492e9bb611ef06414080.jpg

 

 

The left side and the door show the first stage where I apply small amounts of a home brewed dark rust shade (a mix of Humbrol 100 rust and 33 black) applied neat. By the time I've worked round the van it should have dried sufficiently for the next stage shown at the right hand side. I use a quite stubby, thick brush, lightly dampened with white spirit to pull the rust patches down the side of the van. The keys to this technique are that there should be very little white spirit on the brush, that the brush must be kept clean and that overworking the area should be avoided. It's not a precise technique that can be measured and planned, it works best when you're tuned in to exploiting the happy accidents when a rust patch begins to look 'right'. You might also notice that the run off nicely stains and darkens the underlying base coat a shade or two; for this reason I always paint wagons a shade lighter than I intend them to end up.

 

1866844611_yk083.jpg.13d95cbbe1b57ea9a53808afd9d5a18c.jpg

 

 

Edited by Neil
  • Like 14
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 18/11/2019 at 12:22, Neil said:

The tarted up Triang is now finished. since the last photos the brickwork has been painted and weathered, the chimney finished and the glazing installed. Here it is on Northern Town, not in its intended place as the head of steel hasn't reached the yard throat yet, but this image should give a feel for how it'll eventually fit with the railway.

 

1316558289_yk075.jpg.563bf8a2c1b4adef543ca81cae513c2a.jpg

 

One bit I was pleased with is the concrete cancer breaking out on one of the roof corners. The roof is a laminate of two layers of 60 thou plasticard, the corner on the lower layer had reinforcing bars from fuse wire solvent welded in a grid, the upper layer was nibbled away with craft knife and files. The rest is just paint.

 

576469367_yk076.jpg.07820ba3ee1e06a58c8ed2ddd058e568.jpg

 

 

 

I love the detail of the rusty rebar in the concrete roof. I don't think I've seen that modelled before. Excellent!

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

The banana vans now await gloss patches where transfers will be applied. I've not been idle though as this quickie has whisked through the workbench in the last few days. Starting out as a Lima CCT in Tartan Arrow livery it was repainted many years ago but of late I've been increasingly unimpressed by the deeply inset windows and badly fitting roof.

 

318947296_van002.jpg.dca053751a705762579fa36a5ce75938.jpg

 

So the saw and files came out. I cut round each individual window and set them into the sides as flush as possible.

 

1578320319_van001.jpg.439407649a84d31220490b36c2ab60fa.jpg

 

The roof was treated to some cast whitemetal vents instead of the blobby mouldings before being painted and stuck back on.

 

1405423622_van003.jpg.768dd4d9b14c095d10c8835c12946bd3.jpg

 

The van windows were treated to a coat of filth and my now standard Bachmann tension locks fitted using Parkside mounting blocks. Not a glass case model by any stretch of the imagination but an improvement over the original.

  • Like 19
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Having a few projects on the go at the same time works well for me. I prefer to paint and weather using enamels; these days I've worked out that a good three or four days drying between coats works best, particularly for the weathering stage where lots of thinners gets sploshed about. Not quite there yet with the banana vans but almost so.

 

1648939695_van004.jpg.d498e78b865bb7280c86bb9cea9b74ee.jpg

 

The roofs are now fixed in place, getting the basic painting done separately meant that it was very easy to get a sharp edge, but to stop errant dribbles of solvent getting onto the van sides I decided to not fill in the entire floor so I could glue on the roof from inside.

 

1524233842_van005.jpg.c4e07d658c24fb701e3540e508755531.jpg

 

Since taking the photo I've added a small mini section of floor which just supports the vac cylinder. From all sensible viewing angles the void is not noticeable.

 

 

  • Like 13
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

Over the past few days I've been blending a Triang coke wagon with some old Trackmaster chassis parts. New Hornby wheelsets and some brass bearings also feature in the recipe. Here are a few photos showing what I've done so far.

 

1515296501_coke02.jpg.e677fade2415f776e5b4cbd8c6a07053.jpg

 

278083054_coke04.jpg.2bfef63027151283727342fb7afff48b.jpg

 

93361003_coke05.jpg.7684bb9d5a56d63ce42685bbf7812fe8.jpg

 

1631910500_coke06.jpg.cbb53fbe81c9e25b8c5c2a53577e9255.jpg

 

836034630_coke07.jpg.03f821f81b4266d8bf51e2a13d031dce.jpg

 

1103993298_coke08.jpg.31aac53e12db62a70989b1ffa12fd038.jpg

  • Like 15
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
On 13/01/2020 at 23:11, BernardTPM said:

.... Very early ones even had closed axleboxes!

 

Mine does now.

 

1110542253_coke09.jpg.7dd7dd6ca07a038685d16333bd19bc7f.jpg

 

While the Milliput was out I also filled in the gap in the buffer beam.

 

1949458359_coke10.jpg.22fd042545b60d6862b2a61f6fbf0330.jpg

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Late last week the coke wagon spent a little while in the paint shops and now looks like this.

 

360604061_coke11.jpg.d3780c75be324c2395a3b83502cf0b8a.jpg

 

It's now resting, waiting for couplings to arrive and for the rather rough coat of light grey to harden off some more before I attack it with a swift dose of weathering.  Meanwhile I've been cobbling together another brake van for the light railway side of Northern Town.

 

305951346_brake11.jpg.43441156ceb0ae46f4e9f811bffdadaa.jpg

 

It's not finished yet but the bulk of the work is done. Details of the build can be found in this separate thread here.

 

 

  • Like 10
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Anyone looking at my pile of things to finish off late last year wouldn't have been surprised to see the generic 6w full brake appear on Hattons 'to do' list. Mine started out with a bargain bin K's GWR full brake body and a Hornby 6W sausage van bought for little more from e-bay. To be honest the wurst wagon arrived to satisfy my curiosity about a potential cut and shut involving Triang Thompsons to create a 6w BZ van. In the end it didn't seem viable so another freelance bodge beckoned.

 

737421755_6wfullbrake01.jpg.6b2bb520e8c4097650635a7a89534072.jpg

 

In its original state the buffers end up far too far from the rail head. I took out the links which join the axleguards and the couplings together and binned them. The centre axleguard unit was trapped in place with home made plasticard brackets which allowed it to slide side to side but not fall out when lifted up. The end axleguard units were unclipped and the 1mm high pads they sat on chiselled down flush to the underside of the chassis. This drops the ride height by 1mm, still too high but better than before. Still to do are footboards which should further disguise the ride height and a trip through the paint shops.

 

 

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
16 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Very nice! It's for the light railway I assume. Any plans for the livery?

 

Thank you. It is indeed for the light railway and it will be finished in green with white panels to match with the passenger stock I've already built for this part of my miniature empire.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 22/01/2020 at 18:05, Neil said:

To be honest the wurst wagon arrived to satisfy my curiosity about a potential cut and shut involving Triang Thompsons to create a 6w BZ van. In the end it didn't seem viable so another freelance bodge beckoned.

 

I'm doing one of those that way... slowly!

 

BZsides.jpg.e3cd1a8f90e28ab0cced87794a489e46.jpg

 

The dimensions work out quite close, though in the spirit of the trains it will run with I won't be flush glazing or anything fancy like that. The toplights still need reshaping.

  • Like 8
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Neil. The square cut out sections were a window; the joins here now made good and I salvaged a wagon label clip (not yet attached) from a T-H brake van body. Pondering what to do with the toplights I was thinking a bit too scale for a while, but given the profile is compromised anyway I've decided to go with a '1970s' style model so they (and the end windows) won't be flush glazed. And there's enough bits of sides left over to do a Brake Composite too.

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 04/01/2020 at 10:40, Neil said:

Over the last couple of days I've brought the banana vans to a finished state. Here they are posed on Northern Town.

 

418403730_van006.jpg.83ff3b3c519b76c74ec7c0dd9abfab04.jpg

 

Also time to introduce the yard pilot.

 

1137467027_pilot001.jpg.be0e6067b9e2cb2c672787665ebcee85.jpg

 

It's by Bachmann but of some vintage and cost far fewer pennies than the latest model. It's had two lots of fettling to get it to run well but at last it's running as well as it needs to, being on a par with my Heljan 05, the alternative yard pilot.

 

 

 

 

 

Some lovely modelling going on there. 

What “ fettling “ did you give the Bachman ? I have found all Bachman’s, even new seem to run far better for a good   Wheel/ pick-up clean but I’ve never gone further than that. Its really difficult, in my experience to get a steam Bachhy to crawl done to a smooth stop. 

  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
45 minutes ago, jazzer said:

 

Some lovely modelling going on there. 

What “ fettling “ did you give the Bachman ? I have found all Bachman’s, even new seem to run far better for a good   Wheel/ pick-up clean but I’ve never gone further than that. Its really difficult, in my experience to get a steam Bachhy to crawl done to a smooth stop. 

 

Thank you.

 

The J72 was a second hand purchase so I mopped up a lot of surplus oil, tweaked the quartering and cleaned the commutator, clogged with a mix of oil and carbon.  I need to strip it back down, not because it doesn't run well, but because I must have put the motor in upside down as it now runs differently to the rest of my stock and how it did before.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Work on Northern Town has moved back to the layout proper. Upstairs in my playroom I have the beginnings of the coal drops being glued together. Watching glue set is no more interesting than paint so while I wait for more photogenic developments I'll show you how far on both the brake van and coke wagon I've got.

 

2021140643_brake12.jpg.578421267412db519ca3ba17862b3866.jpg

 

69339985_brake13.jpg.053450f55302d3da7b1a78af8c3a5671.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...