009 micro modeller Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 I'm thinking about using some conductive paint to improve the operation of a point on a layout I've just finished; not to extend the conductive area over dead frogs as has been discussed elsewhere but to improve conductivity when the points are changed. I realise that I would have to be careful where I paint to avoid shorting and that it would probably need renewing periodically but this I can live with. I probably shouldn't really be relying on the point blades for contact but I have done successfully in the past and as this was just a quick, small project I was hoping I'd get away with it. At this stage I don't really want to have to solder in a switch as it would risk damaging the scenery and adjacent bits of the layout. My gut feeling is that it's either a duff point or I've accidentally damaged it in some way during construction, but again I'm loathe to rip out and replace it due to the damage that would be caused to the adjacent track and the rest of the layout, which scenically has gone quite well. If conductive paint is a good idea, what type is best to use? I saw some that seemed quite good but it is carbon based rather than metallic, so I'm not sure if after a while it might make things worse. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogirbu Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Bought some from eBay - chinese supplier. It would not give me a conducting surface of any use. If you get some, be prepared to be disappointed! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unicorn1 Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 I have had some success with Busch 05900 conductive paint on point blades - on code 75 points. It comes in two tiny bottles and needs mixing to the required 'thinness'. I've used it to get out of trouble on a couple of occasions. My layout is DCC - so I have no idea how it will behave on DC (if that's what your using). I bought mine from The Hobby Shop, Faversham, I've just looked and it's on sale at the moment. (By on sale I mean the price is reduced..) Hope this helps Regards Les Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharris Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 I'm a bit confused about why conductive paint on a metal surface is a better solution that just cleaning the surface. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 I tried some and was distinctly unimpressed. Stick to solder for conductivity and use switches to ensure current is fed to the blades as appropriate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 (edited) Well try it if you want you have nothing to lose but the money you spend on the paint, in my experience it works on something like a heated rear windscreen of Old with the silver lines across, but anything that involves movement like point blades or wheels runnng over the paint will lead to very rapid failure due to the weakness of the paint, it's very soft and can be rubbed off with no effort even when its had weeks to cure Edited October 8, 2018 by Graham456 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ouroborus Posted October 7, 2018 Share Posted October 7, 2018 (edited) How do you know when your tits are cured? Is it a time thing or do you need to work them? Edited October 7, 2018 by Ouroborus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted October 8, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 8, 2018 I'm a bit confused about why conductive paint on a metal surface is a better solution that just cleaning the surface. Because OP is just relying on the blade to stock rail contact. Many of use know this is asking for trouble and use live frog points, with either auxiliary switching or frog juicers (for DCC users only). Personally, I think that solving the problem, by making provision for doing the job properly, the first time around, is MUCH easier in the long term. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 How do you know when your tits are cured? Is it a time thing or do you need to work them? Ha ha haven't noticed what spell checker had done to my it's , thanks for pointing it out and the laugh. Put right now 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 (edited) problem is that one of the first lines is. "having just finished a layout" layouts are never finnished as you just found out there is always something to do! Edited October 9, 2018 by Graham456 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted October 9, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 9, 2018 If you use Leitsilber L100: https://www.rapidonline.com/kemo-l100-conductive-silver-leitsilber-2ml-87-0781?gclid=CjwKCAjwo_HdBRBjEiwAiPPXpOHV7q-XZpbBD4ICQIV-33v6vqZ_zJSNMPqSYmtKIolSjUABhWHfoRoCGSkQAvD_BwE It is very low resistance but I still wouldn't use it to improve point blade contact! Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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