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The electrics have been tested and now I just need to find my track gauge to be able to build the sections of track that are remaining. There's also one last bit of electrickery to install and that is the control for the bar signal. The other signals are 'digital' but this one is on the next board and the operating gubbins needs to include microswitches that will isolate a section when the signal is at danger so a manual override button can be pressed for a loco to enter the single line without the token in order to run round the train in the loop but whilst still being protected by the signal in the model world and preventing a short circuit in the real world.

 

The layout is wired for 2 controllers that can take control of any part of the layout but the single line section can only be worked when the token is inserted in the appropriate controller station. I'll get some photos, tomorrow, that should explain this better.

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I have been working on the left hand fiddle yard and it now just needs wiring up. I cut a hole in the baseboard and put in another floor at a lower level. The traverser is an old offcut of either a kitchen worktop, or a shelf and it runs on a pair of ball bearing drawer runners.

FiddleYard-1.jpg.1f59737020361a2aeac96d5220e85756.jpg

The upper level track that will run into this end will be just a single track shelf, or I may add a point so that two trains can be fitted in.

 

Edited by Ruston
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On 08/02/2019 at 17:03, Barclay said:

Yes - On the original layout I set them into plastic angle screwed to the side of the layout - doesn't look great but it works. On the newer board I've set them into the baseboard and hidden them with a Gents' urinal !

 

WP_20190208_16_46_46_Pro.jpg.a9424c77a16415cf48f8d89cc8d47515.jpg

 

 

 

I love that crane tank model, is it based on Southwick 7069 that used be at Dinting Steam Centre?

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On 08/03/2019 at 16:40, Ruston said:

I have been working on the left hand fiddle yard and it now just needs wiring up. I cut a hole in the baseboard and put in another floor at a lower level. The traverser is an old offcut of either a kitchen worktop, or a shelf and it runs on a pair of ball bearing drawer runners.

FiddleYard-1.jpg.1f59737020361a2aeac96d5220e85756.jpg

The upper level track that will run into this end will be just a single track shelf, or I may add a point so that two trains can be fitted in.

 

One thing that I hadn't considered and am now scratching my head over is how the hell do I wire this up? I can't really have wires being dragged to and fro...

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23 hours ago, Barclay said:

Thanks, yes, one of the Doxford shipyard loco's. Backwoods Miniatures kit, but if you seek one, beware it's HO scale (by mistake!)

 

Thanks, to be honest I don't really have the skills to build one, but it's nice to know that a kit exists if I ever finish my Dinting diorama.

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2 hours ago, Ruston said:

One thing that I hadn't considered and am now scratching my head over is how the hell do I wire this up? I can't really have wires being dragged to and fro...

How much does it actually move? You only need to allow a little omega loop in the wires to absorb this. If you feed the wires through when the travers is lined up on the middle road, you only need to allow for about 2” movement either side.

 

Alternatively, use tube and pins to align the roads and transfer power. Tube both sides of the joint, with a sliding pin on the layout side to engage with the traverse road once lined up.

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4 hours ago, Ruston said:

One thing that I hadn't considered and am now scratching my head over is how the hell do I wire this up? I can't really have wires being dragged to and fro...

Why not? They don't have to turn round or move very far, just leave the wires underneath in a loop.

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Most people I know who have a traverser use the tube and pin method, which also sorts out accurate alignment,  but, like the others, I can't see a problem with wires - think of the head in a printer, it's free to roam up and down because it's fed by a looped ribbon of wires.

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I guess I'll just have to do that then. It means more switches and I really wanted to avoid that in favour of some kind of contacts that carry the current when the tracks are lined up but I should have thought about that before gluing things in that can't now be removed. I've avoided doing anything about it, today. Instead I have been laying ballast and point rodding.

 

I have also laid the last of the track on the scenic section.

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1 hour ago, Ruston said:

I guess I'll just have to do that then. It means more switches and I really wanted to avoid that in favour of some kind of contacts that carry the current when the tracks are lined up but I should have thought about that before gluing things in that can't now be removed. I've avoided doing anything about it, today.

So use the tube-in-pins method. No switches required.

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This evening's entertainment was building the bridge for the right-hand end of the layout. Card shell with Wills brick and stone sheets and girder bridge made from plain and rivetted plasticards. To get the arch I shaved the stone blocks down using a Stanley knife and then scored new mortar courses in. The girder bridge crosses the railway, the arch crosses the cut and the small opening on the right is for a foot/towpath.

Bridge-1.jpg.616e58bcbb8f2dea9dc38fbdd770ad04.jpg

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The Traverser.

 

It's not pretty but it works. Pin and tube on the far rails, to conduct power and to align the tracks. Fixed wire to all roads on the near side. The other end of the traverser will have a similar set up but each loco road will be switched.

 

In other news, I have glued magnets into recesses in the bottom of the engine shed. As the track in the shed will need cleaning from time-to-time I thought it best be removable but I didn't want it just sitting on the top and gaps showing around the bottom, so there are also magnets in the fixed base to ensure the building sits in exactly the same position every time. I wrapped the building in Cling Film whilst the ballast was spread and glued around it. When the area is finished the shed ought to look as if it's part of it and not simply perched on top.

image.png.15ce3abd7bfcc71990e15ce80fc9f65f.png

 

image.png.a7e17c3a9388e855565c518ff6da1aac.png

 

image.png.cd60ca11277a094e0c72220849c9e79c.png

 

Work on the footpath to the station is in progress...

image.png.19d3484ee00f52acbfa5ee36d5416289.png

Edited by Ruston
I spellzed stuff rong
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1 hour ago, Ruston said:

The Traverser.

shedarea-5.jpg.7c847c5c5bf65090a2dbf1e0146826fe.jpg

It's not pretty but it works. Pin and tube on the far rails, to conduct power and to align the tracks. Fixed wire to all roads on the near side. The other end of the traverser will have a similar set up but each loco road will be switched.

 

In other news, I have glued magnets into recesses in the bottom of the engine shed. As the track in the shed will need cleaning from time-to-time I thought it best be removable but I didn't want it just sitting on the top and gaps showing around the bottom, so there are also magnets in the fixed base to ensure the building sits in exactly the same position every time. I wrapped the building in Cling Film whilst the ballast was spread and glued around it. When the area is finished the shed ought to look as if it's part of it and not simply perched on top.

shedarea-1.jpg.f3c032c4decac3530a8b72b7a3979b3f.jpg

 

shedarea-2.jpg.1b5de25195f3882d671d32aeb29a6f32.jpg

 

shedarea-3.jpg.c095f7883590f7a90d4fb5f2f2515d00.jpg

 

Work on the footpath to the station is in progress...

shedarea-4.jpg.96e271aaf1396df1c7b25d43a4bc11a6.jpg

Dave, bottom view, the signal needs to be moved back a few yards, where you have it, a train stood at it would foul the adjacent line.

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I blame the cheapskate contractor. That footpath was supposed to be flags but he's just thrown down a bit of gravel, so it's to be expected that he won't do the signals right.

 

Too late to do anything about it now, Mick. It's firmly glued in and there's all the under-baseboard gubbins that makes it work to consider too. I'm sure the drivers will know to stop with the first coach on the platform, so they won't foul the other line. Both lines can be run through in both directions and the nearest line has no signals at all, relying on the fact that a train on that line obviously can't enter the single line whilst the points are against it and the signalman is only going to set them when the driver has the staff. That's my excuse and it's all a bit iffy, being a light railway that doesn't really need the starter anyway.

 

 

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Just caught up with this topic. Regarding the traverser, I had a similar dilemma with mine. Originally I wanted cassettes but there wasn't enough room between the station exit/run round tracks so I came up with this, a cross between a cassette and a traverser. All lined up with the mark 1 eyeball. Electrical connection via push to make buttons.

 

IMG_2082.JPG.10d5f678fc9011ac24327e2e2a5f6da7.JPG  

 

IMG_2083.JPG.6e47f3e81b87098e0a8ca4ae17828715.JPG

 

Just needs a splash of paint to tidy it up a bit.

 

Cheer's, Pete.

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Making a tree.

1tree-001.jpg.1af9ec636be7c8b982800487e6ac2cd5.jpg

Twisted wire, wrapped in masking tape, and then the stuff below painted on.

 

1tree-002.jpg.0d758fe50efbd17560085076c8352166.jpg

I found this in the loft. I guess I've had it for almost 20 years and so I can't remember where I bought it but I used it on trees that I made on my O-14 layout Whitaker's Tramway. I was surprised that the contents weren't dried out but when I lifted the lid it was as good as new.

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A few bits and pieces.

bitsnpieces-5.jpg.84889177710b9f9458c97d1ba2f50683.jpg

The good old Wills platelayer's hut and a wall/railings to go around the General Manager's house, to stop his children and dog from plumetting off the old quarry face. I used some cut down GWR spear fence for this, atop waste sprue from a set of Wills doors and windows. There's also a grounded van body that I am converting to become a 3rd class waiting room.

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