rope runner Posted July 9, 2019 Share Posted July 9, 2019 I think it's a quirk of the software/shapeways Dave - if you click "3D" on the image you can rotate it by dragging across it. The cylinders (x2) and motion (non working) looks to be a separate part which can be slid into the correct position behind the boiler. Anyway, you raise a good point about 3D printing - I'm not overly keen either. Not that this is a thread on the subject - I'm sure there's hundreds so apologies for the hijack. The prototype pictured above looks much more appealing. Not sure about a source for six spoke driving wheels though. Perhaps someone could 3D print you some centres? Paul A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 11, 2019 Author Share Posted July 11, 2019 (edited) The crane tank chassis is running but needs the crank pins to be cut down and the brake gear to be fitted, as well as the rods and wheels given a lick of paint. The wheels were in unopened Gibson packets but for whatever reason were a slack fit on the axles, so they couldn't be pressed on, or quartered using the usual (I've forgotten the name of the maker) wheel press/quartering jig. In stead they are soldered on using low-melt solder. The first axle was done to approximately 90 degrees and on the second axle one wheel was soldered on. The rods were fitted and the whole lot was allowed to run up and down a length of track, so I then knew the last wheel had got itself quartered. This was then soldered on. The axles were made by the Gittins Patent Insulated Axle Co. at their Braynerts works. Edited July 11, 2019 by Ruston 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 On 09/07/2019 at 18:19, Ruston said: An interesting prototype but I have yet to be convinced by 3D-printing. From what I've seen the surface is either like sandpaper or has visible layers where the machine has laid down the plastic. It doesn't exactly fill me with confidence when the illustration is a 'digital preview' rather than a photo of an actual model that the designer has finished, or at least printed. I have ideas for an even more unusual loco but fitting a motor, and obtaining the correct diameter wheels is an issue. One of at least 3 (possibly as many as 5) built by Cochrane & Co. at the Ormesby iron works. Although it looks like one It isn't a vertical boiler but is a Brown boiler (Brown & Co. ,Winterthur, Switzerland) that has horizontal tubes in the short part to the right. The main part is the firebox at the lower part with the upper part acting as a huge steam dome. The two thirty six ton swl steam cranes ordered by the GWR from Ransome & Rapier were originally fitted with this type of boiler. Later on in their life they were fitted with conventional vertical boilers. Gordon A 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 11, 2019 Author Share Posted July 11, 2019 (edited) As it stands at the close of play, today. The only part that I used from the old crane is the large gear wheel. I didn't like the cab that I made and so fitted the kit cab but the thick walls looked horrible, so these are covered by an in-service modification of the addition of wooden planks being fitted as cab sides. Because there is such a large rear overhang I have tried to get as much weight as possible to the front so the additional buffer blocks are made from brass at the front but plasticard at the rear. For the same reason I made a new cab roof from plasticard. A small amount of lead has been put in the space in rear of the smokebox. I have used up all of my etch primer spray so will need to get some more before I can paint the brake parts and the rods. I don't usually paint the rods but they will be painted red on this occasion. I also need to make sandboxes to go under the running plate, forward of the smokebox as the SECR boxes supplied can't be fitted because of the slewing engine. Ah yes, the slewing engine... I'm still thinking about how to do that; watch this space. Edited July 11, 2019 by Ruston 7 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 12, 2019 Share Posted July 12, 2019 maybe ask Giles about it, he could advise on little motors and maybe some radio control stuff small enough to fit in the boiler Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 12, 2019 Author Share Posted July 12, 2019 1 hour ago, sir douglas said: maybe ask Giles about it, he could advise on little motors and maybe some radio control stuff small enough to fit in the boiler No, Sam, It's only going to be cosmetic and I don't think that even Giles could make this work. There really isn't the space for anything at all in there. Don't forget that this is 4mm. Making just the cosmetic engine is going to be difficult enough as it's got to look as if it is an engine and not just a couple of tubes, which the hoist engine casting that comes with the kit looks like. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 12, 2019 Author Share Posted July 12, 2019 I have found some photos that show the engine from angles other than the side. Two plates at either end of a block of plasticard for the cylinders and some pieces of rod and strip for the waggly bits ought to do it, I reckon. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 13, 2019 Author Share Posted July 13, 2019 Well, it's not exact but it's not bad considering it's done from a photo and without a drawing. Also that it's under 12mm tall. All plasticard and strip construction with inital coat of red oxide primer. 4 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ruston Posted July 13, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 13, 2019 All done and dusted. I've weathered it as hard-worked but well-kept. All the easy to get to painted surfaces are shiny but everything else has a coating of soot and grime. It possibly needs some more grease and oil appearance on the greasy and oily bits of the crane engines and the slewing ring. It isn't lined because it's bought second hand and has had a repaint and it's also unnamed because it's not really in the public eye. I also fancy building a small engineering works layout set in the 1960s, so I want to be able to use it on that, too, and naming it in the Egyptian gods series of the CVMR would tie it to this layout too much. 21 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tullygrainey Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 Another gem. That crane really looks the business. 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 14, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 14, 2019 Another little beauty! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 14, 2019 Author Share Posted July 14, 2019 (edited) Today I threw together a collection of random parts, plus a bit of scratchbuilding, to make this runner/.P.W. /re-railing wagon to go with the crane tank. It needs sleepers, chairs, chains, tools etc, to finish it. Edited July 14, 2019 by Ruston 13 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 Just a minor point Ruston, the loop on top of the boiler for the crane hook - in real life what would it be screwed into? I think screwing into the boiler would be a no-no. Apart from the boiler itself the cladding is very thin and the loop would be pulled out on the first bit of rough track. How about a couple chains secured to a strap down the backs of the side tanks? Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 15, 2019 Author Share Posted July 15, 2019 6 hours ago, Gordon A said: Just a minor point Ruston, the loop on top of the boiler for the crane hook - in real life what would it be screwed into? I think screwing into the boiler would be a no-no. Apart from the boiler itself the cladding is very thin and the loop would be pulled out on the first bit of rough track. How about a couple chains secured to a strap down the backs of the side tanks? Gordon A I don't know, Gordon. I'm only going by the photo of the Stobcross crane tank on the previous page, and that the kit instructions show that the loop has to be fitted there. There's no reason why it couldn't have been welded or riveted to the boiler, rather than being screwed in. The wagon with added P.W. stuff. The pickaxe head belonged to the driver of the crane tank until he was plucked from the obscurity of the Airfix track gang and was promoted. What it really needs are some jacks for re-railing and P.W. work. Does anyone sell such things or is it scratchbuilding again? A van and a wagon capable of carrying 30ft. lengths of rail is in order next. 14 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 GEM did/does re-railing jacks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 15, 2019 Author Share Posted July 15, 2019 51 minutes ago, mike morley said: GEM did/does re-railing jacks Thanks, Mike. I've just googled those and it's difficult to tell the size of them and they don't look to be any better than I can make for myself anyway. I'd still need to make the P.W. jacks as they're very different. It's a long time since I used one but I remember them being a ratchet thing and having a sort of foot that stuck out to the side so they could get under a rail on in-situ track so that it could be lifted and ballast packed under it. I've also just remembered these re-railing ramps that I must have had for getting on for 20 years and have never used and haven't even painted them until now. They are cast resin and were for O-14 narrow gauge and so are about the right size for 4mm standard gauge for use with the type of small engines on the CVMR. I've seen some full size standard gauge ramps at the Tanfield railway and they're very similar in design. 7 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted July 15, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 15, 2019 How did they get the keys to stay in the chairs, without the rail being present? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 15, 2019 Author Share Posted July 15, 2019 1 minute ago, Regularity said: How did they get the keys to stay in the chairs, without the rail being present? Magic? There doesn't appear to be any keys in there, except for the single chair and that's the last of about a dozen C&L chairs that 5050 gave to me. Half of those disintegrated when I tried to cut the keys off and since this is my last one I thought I'd just leave it as it is. I was quite surprised to find that P4 modellers don't fit seperate keys. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted July 15, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 15, 2019 Joking apart, I am surprised that no one has produced castings/mouldings of just a chair, to be used as scenic items: they were often neatly stacked for future use. And not so neatly piled after recovery from other use. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted July 15, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 15, 2019 Assorted blocks of wood, wedges, and fishplates also come in handy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted July 15, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 15, 2019 An interesting product line for the 3D modellers amongst us, I would have thought. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 the coindidence of this, i was just thinking about this last night as ive just got a pack of o gauge chairs with seperate keys in a box of stuff donated to our club Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Castleacreshunter Posted July 16, 2019 Share Posted July 16, 2019 (edited) If your interested Springside do a packet of 50 cast metal chairs,ideal for detailing, if I could remembered where I stored them(the usual safe place) I would have took photo. Malcolm Edited July 16, 2019 by Castleacreshunter 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 16, 2019 Author Share Posted July 16, 2019 Next in the erecting shop is this Manning Wardle Class F kit. It's by Chivers Slimrails, which is a manufacturer that I have never had any experience of before. The whitemetal castings have a little flash but are otherwise crisp and the lost wax castings look excellent. Most class F had 2ft. 9in. diameter wheels but a few had 3ft and as that's the smallest MW pattern wheel available that's what it will have to be. The instructions for motorising it mean nothing to me and I'll be looking to find which High Level gearbox will fit. Some of the parts are surplus as the kit is intended to build Wantage Tramway No.7, with it's non-standard fully-enclosed cab. Needless to say that I'll be building it as the Boyne Engine Works intended. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 18, 2019 Author Share Posted July 18, 2019 (edited) I've put the Class F kit back in its box and started on the 'Tin tab' brake van kit that I bought from Sandhole a few pages ago. The problem is that I have run out of coupling hooks and have also got several unfinished kits, RTR and second hand purchases of wagon stock that also need couplings. The last time I looked, Smiths hooks cost £7.20 for a pack of 20 and then there's the cost of the links, so I've borrowed a former to make links and have invested £7 in having a new cutter for the pantograph ground to just 0.7mm so I can make my own hooks. I could have done it without but drilling holes in brass using a pin vice is tedious and I'd have blisters on my fingers. That is the master pattern to 16x finished size. From this will be made 10 4x size styrene patterns so that I can make 10 brass hooks at a time with just one tool change. I have made the shank much shorter and narrower than those on Smiths couplings as I find it tiresome to have to cut them down and then file the shank so that it fits through the slot in a buffer beam or headstock. I don't ever fit my couplings with springs anyway. Once I've made the patterns I'll never have to buy hooks again and I can buy a sheet of cartridge brass that is large enough to produce 100 hooks for £16. Edited July 25, 2019 by Ruston 3 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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