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Somewhere earlier in these pages I poste photos of an L&Y Diagram 3 van that I had made using Ratio frames and an ancient Triang body. Whilst it looked alright it didn't sit right next to other vans. If you look at photos of these things next to other vans you'll notice how low their roof height was. I checked in my copy of Lancashire & Yorkshire Wagons Vol. 1 and found that from rail tops to the top of the arc of the roof, they were only 10ft 8ins. tall, so I've finally got around to correcting them.

 

wagons-001.jpg.725cfa0d28cc8ab036d58e6700e13366.jpg

The Ratio frames have been done away with and replaced by plastic section solebars and one plank has been cut out all-round to lower the height of the body. It is now to scale height on rails. I've added home-made (printed) number plate, plus repaint and weathering.

 

The next job in the wagon works is the conversion of a Ratio GWR Iron Mink that I picked up, already built at an exhibition for just £2!

wagons-002.jpg.7f56d7d43e64b94a0ae351b78882fe72.jpg

I am currently filling the door recesses to make them flush across the doors. Everything below the solebars will be cut off and replaced by L&Y pattern Morton brake gear and L&Y axleboxes. It will then become an L&Y Dia. 60 Gunpowder Van.

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I realised, last week, that considering there is supposed to be a small colliery served by the CVMR, that I have few mineral wagons. I did repaint and letter a couple of Hornby 4-plank wagons but that was as far as it got and I wasn't happy with the livery in any case.

 

I went to Expo EM at the weekend just gone and happened to bag 4 unbuilt Slaters wagon chassis for a bargain price and it is these that will form the basis of the Private Owner mineral wagon fleet, plus some bits and pieces that have been made up to rolling chassis and also a couple of Ratio underframes and two Cambrian kits. Of course all but the Cambrian kits will need bodies building and so I have made a start.

 

wagons-008.jpg.eefc647e9149c9db6698bf622a1d9103.jpg

This end-door wagon is based on a Gloucester 15ft. wagon of the 1890s in one of the Turton private owner wagon books. It is all styrene construction, fitted on to a Slaters Gloucester frame.

 

wagons-004.jpg.0e63bcde91516e85be1a5852645df989.jpg

Various wagon works-in-progress on the shelf above my workbench.

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Ready for lettering. Brakes one side only. On the photo that I have been working from there is no door banger on the brake side but there is a metal plate on the door where it would strike the V-hanger/brake lever. As there is no brake gear on this side I'm wondering if it should have a banger on this side?

wagons-011.jpg.52b7e9c2143bb067a09f7fb60ecc56e6.jpg

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23 minutes ago, Ruston said:

General Gordon, the only engine owned by the Calder Vale Coal & Clay Co. to carry a name, freshly returned after overhaul at the Airedale Foundry works of it's builder Kitson & Co. of Leeds.

 

A definite improvement on the original livery...

What a refreshing tonic... ;)

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Break Van No.5, built in the company's own workshop and based closely on a North Eastern Railway design, was used on passenger services to carry small consignments and was also used on pay day to distribute pay packets to railway staff along the line.

1133123445_BreakVan5-1.jpg.5f9297b46147c422f760fd69bad2c4b1.jpg

 

1534599745_BreakVan5-2.jpg.d3ed2e0a899e4de98a25510cccb0503b.jpg

Slaters NER Goods Brake without the end stanchions for working with chaldrons, a different arrangement of hand rails, and the door cut out on one side to show it as slid open with various crates and luggage on show inside.

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3 hours ago, Ruston said:

The L&YR Diagram 16 Fruit wagon scratchbuild is now in service.

1765649925_Dia.3116-002.jpg.687f7b463822e60195368b60ac71df39.jpg

 

1382141819_Dia.3116-004.jpg.bef280d686ea05f96b70cb433f6fa913.jpg

 

And has been joined by a scratchbuilt Diagram 31 6-wheeled timber wagon.

1338707271_Dia.3116-001.jpg.7cb7c3a0dc6a988206f4c099bccfd58a.jpg

 

221546271_Dia.3116-003.jpg.2868af2f1a5b528bfeaebb32980dbb6d.jpg

Apologies if I've missed the build details, but is there any more info of the fruit and timber wagon builds?

 

All the best,

 

Mark

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6 minutes ago, 2996 Victor said:

Apologies if I've missed the build details, but is there any more info of the fruit and timber wagon builds?

 

All the best,

 

Mark

There's only the couple of posts on this and the last page about the fruit wagon and nothing at all about the timber wagon. I built it this week and didn't post anything of the build as I didn't think anyone would be interested. There's been no comment on the other wagons so I figured that people just want to see finished items. When you've seen one part-built lump of plasticard, you've seen them all and everyone knows how to build a wagon, I guess?

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4 hours ago, Ruston said:

There's only the couple of posts on this and the last page about the fruit wagon and nothing at all about the timber wagon. I built it this week and didn't post anything of the build as I didn't think anyone would be interested. There's been no comment on the other wagons so I figured that people just want to see finished items. When you've seen one part-built lump of plasticard, you've seen them all and everyone knows how to build a wagon, I guess?

 

Hi again,

 

many thanks for the reply!

 

I take your point about scratchbuilding wagons, but its also fair to say that everyone has something to learn, and I for one enjoy seeing some build photographs! Its also useful to know where any bought-in component may have come from, eg axleboxes, buffers, that may be unique to specific companies. But that's just me, of course!

 

One other question, though. I've been struggling with what's the best approach to representing the bolt-heads on the wagon ironwork. Yours look pretty convincing, so can I ask how you do that?

 

Best regards,

 

Mark

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On 01/08/2019 at 17:54, Ruston said:

5050 came to play with the trainset, yesterday and and I have started on making wagon loads for the quarry traffic. The type of stone from the quarries and mines around the Hipperholme/Lightcliffe area was used for architectural purposes, rather than being a crushed product for industry or roadmaking and so it is far more time-consuming to make loads. I've also used my modeller's licence to imagine how some of these things were carried and in the case of the two loads made so far - roofing stones and flags - I have them leaned against the wagon ends and packed every 4 or 6 with wood. They have been made using card and microstrip on card bases.

 

cvmraugust-023.jpg.9077d4261cd08953be02edf1a9957ad0.jpg

 

cvmraugust-016.jpg.6978766addcfbc2dae963bdd9029c31c.jpg

 

Hi Dave,

 

the dumb-buffered quarry wagons look superb and can I say your rendition of the roofing flag loads is brilliant! Inspiring stuff!

 

Thanks for posting these!

 

Mark

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On 10/09/2019 at 20:31, Ruston said:

The L&Y Diagram 16 Fruit wagon is ready for final painting and lettering.

dia16wagon-1.jpg.cd41f12aca38a6a2fd5f8004c65e35fc.jpg

That buffer head needs straightening.

 

Is the brake lever in the correct angle? Should it be at 3 o'clock ? Or is the photo back to front?

Was there an industry convention that the levers went to the right?

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15 hours ago, 2996 Victor said:

 

Hi again,

 

many thanks for the reply!

 

I take your point about scratchbuilding wagons, but its also fair to say that everyone has something to learn, and I for one enjoy seeing some build photographs! Its also useful to know where any bought-in component may have come from, eg axleboxes, buffers, that may be unique to specific companies. But that's just me, of course!

 

One other question, though. I've been struggling with what's the best approach to representing the bolt-heads on the wagon ironwork. Yours look pretty convincing, so can I ask how you do that?

 

Best regards,

 

Mark

Hi Mark,

 

I use 3 different ways of represneting bolt heads or nuts. For round heads I use 20 thou. styrene rod or .45mm brass rod. For square heads I use 20 thou. square rod.

 

With the square rod I cut slices of it and stick them to the surface by putting them in place and flooding them with MEK. With the round ones I drill holes and push short lengths through. The styrene rod is flooded with MEK but the brass rod is held in by dipping the long length of rod into a pool of superglue and pushing it into the hole and then it is snipped off using side cutters.

 

Brass has to be backed by a thick piece of styrene as the holes made for it are blind and so can only be used in vans or anything where the insides cannot be seen.

 

With the square heads I simply file them down once the solvent is properly dry (24 hours to be safe) but with the round heads I trim them with a razor blade first.

 

8 hours ago, relaxinghobby said:

 

Is the brake lever in the correct angle? Should it be at 3 o'clock ? Or is the photo back to front?

Was there an industry convention that the levers went to the right?

It's meant to be how it appears with both levers at the same end. The L&Y and other railways did this with their wagons and I think the L&Y used this until 1903 but I'd have to check. There was a regulation that meant all brake levers had to be at the right hand end but I don't know when that came in. Presumably 1911, when things such as dumb buffers were alsoo banned on new-builds all over the UK.

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The Cambrian and the NER also used left-handed levers on the "other" side.  I once tried to find when they fell out of use.  I only met with limited success and it was a while ago, but IIRC, the regulation change in 1911 only outlawed them on new-builds and any already in existence remained legal until some years after they had all in any case age expired.

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1 hour ago, mike morley said:

The Cambrian and the NER also used left-handed levers on the "other" side.  I once tried to find when they fell out of use.  I only met with limited success and it was a while ago, but IIRC, the regulation change in 1911 only outlawed them on new-builds and any already in existence remained legal until some years after they had all in any case age expired.

 

Hi,

 

This photo of a Rhondda & Swansea Bay Rly one-planker has been doing the rounds lately:

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_09/361323669_DY11406RSBwagon398shewingloadingofcasks.jpg.a26e0ebc76c23699772a5dc221fb0641.jpg

 

It's got GWR-pattern OK oil axleboxes and looks quite modern, but has a left-handed lever on the visible side.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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On 28/09/2019 at 16:08, 2996 Victor said:

 

 

8 hours ago, Ruston said:

Hi Mark,

 

I use 3 different ways of represneting bolt heads or nuts. For round heads I use 20 thou. styrene rod or .45mm brass rod. For square heads I use 20 thou. square rod.

 

With the square rod I cut slices of it and stick them to the surface by putting them in place and flooding them with MEK. With the round ones I drill holes and push short lengths through. The styrene rod is flooded with MEK but the brass rod is held in by dipping the long length of rod into a pool of superglue and pushing it into the hole and then it is snipped off using side cutters.

 

Brass has to be backed by a thick piece of styrene as the holes made for it are blind and so can only be used in vans or anything where the insides cannot be seen.

 

With the square heads I simply file them down once the solvent is properly dry (24 hours to be safe) but with the round heads I trim them with a razor blade first.

 

Hi again,

 

what method do you use to scribe the planking on your wagons? In the past, I've indented the plank lines with a compass point held at a very shallow angle to the styrene, but this causes the styrene to curl.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

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9 hours ago, Ruston said:

I use a tool known as a P cutter. It doesn't score the plastic but removes a sliver so doesn't leave raised edges. This isn't the exact one but it's the same sort of thing.

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/olfa-heavy-duty-cutter-p-800-3927413091.html

 

Many thanks - I'll have a good look!

Incidentally, does it have a vee-shaped blade that creates a vee groove?

 

Thanks again and very best regards,

 

Mark

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31 minutes ago, 2996 Victor said:

 

Many thanks - I'll have a good look!

Incidentally, does it have a vee-shaped blade that creates a vee groove?

 

Thanks again and very best regards,

 

Mark

Yes, it does.

 

The salt van just needs lettering and weathering now. Transfers are available from Powsides but they are very expensive. I suppose I'll have to have them to finish it. I watched a chap hand-painting lettering on 4mm scale wagons, at the York Exhibition, last year. I've tried it but I can't even get anywhere near to something that doesn't look as if it's been graffittied with a yard brush.

1161905155_saltvan2-2.jpg.d31320976d0ea541f461f0c072f6669c.jpg

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