OO works in three shoeboxes

[TechnicArrow]

For the first layout I'm building from scratch, I thought I'd try a shoebox or two.

There's a few reasons; I'm a University student with very limited space and budget, and I've got no experience of building baseboards. The plan is to get it (mainly) done over the holidays, so I can take it with me when I start back in late September.

I devised the layout plan, as all good ideas are, in the shower. The intention is to represent a small, urban wagon works. Stock will be what I currently own, so a GWR pannier or BR class 04, plus suitable wagons.

The larger middle box serves as the yard, with trains entering from the "fiddle yard", i.e. its lid. The second, smaller box is going to be a two-road work shed with the lid turned into a removable roof, where the front can fold down to provide a third siding in front. Thus the "layout" can be operated in an inglenook shunting puzzle style. Hopefully.

I raided the garage collection for some suitable boxes, hunted for some track, and this is what I came up with:

 

I should point out I'll be using a spare length of flexible track for the most part, I just used these bits to give an idea without cutting holes yet. I also hope to salvage the old points, but I'm not sure how usable they are. They're not very good electrically, but I might bypass the contacts as there's only ever going to be one loco operating, so they don't need to isolate. They'll also need a trim to fit neatly in one box, so it doesn't matter they're both missing some sleepers.

Should I persevere with these, or just ditch them and buy some new ones? I'd rather not spend too much or cut new points, but the better running quality might be worth it. I'm not sure.

I'm also not sure what to do with the bit where the front siding leaves the main box. The shed idea came about as a way of disguising the fact it's all in boxes, but it breaks down a bit here. Perhaps a lean-to shelter? I was thinking a footbridge, but where from/to? We'll have to see. 

And, of course, it needs a name. I've not got any ideas at the moment, so all are welcome!

Thanks for looking.

-TA

Edited January 9, 2019 by TechnicArrow

[luke the train spotter]

Hi Technic Arrow, being a student myself (though not a united yet) I am familiar with the low budget low space problem. I would strongly recommend that you do not use those points. Though it will cost you £20 to replace them, they will give you much better lasting performance. I like the idea of this layout and am following with interest.

[Marly51]

TechnicArrow, have you strengthened the base of your boxes with an extra layer of card? Jim Read on this Forum has experimented a lot with card and his topics and videos are worth having a look at. I like these micro challenges - Good luck! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/user/30200-jimread/

 

Marlyn

Edited August 10, 2018 by Marly51

[TechnicArrow]

Thanks both.

@Luke - Thanks for the tip. I think I'm going to replace the RH point, but wire up and cut down the LH one so they both fit. Then I don't spend too much, and I can still reuse the new point in the future. I don't consider this layout to be very permanent, so I'd like to be able to salvage some parts.

@Marly - I had forgotten to do that! As they're compete boxes they're pretty strong already, but I've PVA'ed a layer of cereal box card and left it under weight to set over night. Jim's topic is very interesting. I might try a traverser (or at least a sector plate) fiddle yard one day, when the main layout is "done".

 

But onto today's progress. In deciding what buildings to place around the layout, I remembered the Scalescenes download-and-print range. Their free Low Relief Warehouse looks perfect for the back, so I've built a mock-up until I can print and build it. I also found my appallingly built free-with-Hornby Magazine copy of the arched bridge to cover the exit.

That left the main work shed, which posed a problem. No manufacturer's kit I could find fitted the size I needed, and I didn't fancy scratchbuilding the structure. Then I remembered one tucked away in a cupboard, from Model Rail from who-knows-when (I used to be given old magazines by a friend, hence the large collection of back-issues). It's not an excellent model, but it fits the space perfectly. 

 

I cut the main 2 faces out and stuck them onto cereal box card, and put them in the layout. Then I cut the boxes around them, and this is the scene so far. Nothing is fixed in place yet.

 

The clearances on the front siding are a bit tight, the shed kit notably lacks a roof, and it's entrance needs to be wider to cover both tracks. The bridge also needs to be made low-relief to fit past the warehouse, but again I'm not sure whether to try to salvage this or buy a new one.

Believe it or not, the whole thing still folds up into 2 neat boxes! The long shed wall will be glued to the LH box, with the end slightly protruding. The gabled shed wall is fixed to the inside of the RH box, to keep the boxes strong. The front siding in the LH box will fold up against the outside of the shed. 

At the moment, if the bridge is removed and placed inside the LH box, the boxes still nest, even with the warehouse mock-up in place! I might try to keep this "function", where it all fits into one box, but it means that all the yard detail has to be flat or removable. We'll see how that one goes.

Continuing with the shed; instead of filling the windows with the supplied printed ones, I've used strips of white card and some clear plastic. There's a few less frame elements to each window than the original, but because mine are thicker I decided not to add too many. It also made my job easier! It just needs a couple of doors for now. Further details will be added when it's fixed to the layout.

 

And that concludes today. I've decided that the layout will be the works of a modern preserved railway, as that allows for discrepancies in my mix of stock and I can use more modern figures, vehicles and signs. It also excuses the shed windows.

Anyway, thanks again for reading.

-TA

[d&h]

Thanks both.

@Luke - Thanks for the tip. I think I'm going to replace the RH point, but wire up and cut down the LH one so they both fit. Then I don't spend too much, and I can still reuse the new point in the future. I don't consider this layout to be very permanent, so I'd like to be able to salvage some parts.

@Marly - I had forgotten to do that! As they're compete boxes they're pretty strong already, but I've PVA'ed a layer of cereal box card and left it under weight to set over night. Jim's topic is very interesting. I might try a traverser (or at least a sector plate) fiddle yard one day, when the main layout is "done".

 

But onto today's progress. In deciding what buildings to place around the layout, I remembered the Scalescenes download-and-print range. Their free Low Relief Warehouse looks perfect for the back, so I've built a mock-up until I can print and build it. I also found my appallingly built free-with-Hornby Magazine copy of the arched bridge to cover the exit.

That left the main work shed, which posed a problem. No manufacturer's kit I could find fitted the size I needed, and I didn't fancy scratchbuilding the structure. Then I remembered one tucked away in a cupboard, from Model Rail from who-knows-when (I used to be given old magazines by a friend, hence the large collection of back-issues). It's not an excellent model, but it fits the space perfectly. 

DSCN5911.JPG

 

I cut the main 2 faces out and stuck them onto cereal box card, and put them in the layout. Then I cut the boxes around them, and this is the scene so far. Nothing is fixed in place yet.

DSCN5916.JPG

DSCN5917.JPG

DSCN5918.JPG

 

The clearances on the front siding are a bit tight, the shed kit notably lacks a roof, and it's entrance needs to be wider to cover both tracks. The bridge also needs to be made low-relief to fit past the warehouse, but again I'm not sure whether to try to salvage this or buy a new one.

Believe it or not, the whole thing still folds up into 2 neat boxes! The long shed wall will be glued to the LH box, with the end slightly protruding. The gabled shed wall is fixed to the inside of the RH box, to keep the boxes strong. The front siding in the LH box will fold up against the outside of the shed. 

At the moment, if the bridge is removed and placed inside the LH box, the boxes still nest, even with the warehouse mock-up in place! I might try to keep this "function", where it all fits into one box, but it means that all the yard detail has to be flat or removable. We'll see how that one goes.

Continuing with the shed; instead of filling the windows with the supplied printed ones, I've used strips of white card and some clear plastic. There's a few less frame elements to each window than the original, but because mine are thicker I decided not to add too many. It also made my job easier! It just needs a couple of doors for now. Further details will be added when it's fixed to the layout.

DSC_4367.JPG

 

And that concludes today. I've decided that the layout will be the works of a modern preserved railway, as that allows for discrepancies in my mix of stock and I can use more modern figures, vehicles and signs. It also excuses the shed windows.

Anyway, thanks again for reading.

-TA

This looks rather good.

Regarding "lack of funds" (something we can all relate to) are you aware of this web site: http://www.wordsworthmodelrailway.co.uk/index.html 

You might find something  useful.

[TechnicArrow]

This looks rather good.

Regarding "lack of funds" (something we can all relate to) are you aware of this web site: http://www.wordsworthmodelrailway.co.uk/index.html 

You might find something  useful.

 

Thanks! I hadn't seen that site before and it's incredibly useful. I liked the look of the "Modular Retaining Wall" kit as a bridge, and decided to use it to replace my appallingly built Scalescenes one. However, when I mocked it up it was a too large. After a longer than expected morning on my computer, I had ended up using it as a template to create my own stone-based bridge, along with inspiration from other kits. I printed and built it this afternoon.

(As I'm from the midlands, I have no idea whether the construction is realistic or not! I simply substituted the brickwork for stone, except for the hardly-visible roof of the arch)

04 for scale:

I think it matches the workshed rather well, although the stone is less yellow and a lot less shiny. Of course, this is only one side of it. The other isn't great, but it'll be against the wall of the box and has yet to have the low-relief road deck added. The top capping stones ended up a bit small as well, but I could reprint those if I think they're really bad. 

Further, un-photographed progress includes cutting out the doors to the workshed, and discovering to my annoyance that despite being left under weights, the reinforcing layer I glued to the base of the boxes has caused them to warp up. I've put them back under weights for tonight, and I'll investigate further in the morning.

[Guest Saltburn]

Hi TechnicArrow nice stone work on the the tunnel portal.

[TechnicArrow]

Thanks Saltburn, I'm quite surprised how well it turned out.

Yesterday, I worked on the Scalescenes free low-relief warehouse. I replaced the brickwork for stone, printed the sheets and built it as per the instructions. I had a brief experiment with making the doors movable along the rail, but it proved too difficult and unwieldy so I've glued them lightly in place for now.

This morning I turned my attention to the main workshed, creating an inner layer for the long wall and gluing the far gable end in place. Then I switched ends, and fixed the bridge in position, with a very narrow roadway and the beginnings of a retaining wing wall to the front. This, and another yet-to-be-built section of wall, need covering with printed stonework and capping. However, our printer is complaining it's out of yellow ink despite having plenty left...

After lunch, I went out to purchase the replacement RH point; I found a used one for a fiver, but still in good condition and certainly alright for this project.

I took a few posed photos this evening, with some suitable stock and other bits nicked off the main layout, including a road-rail landie and a scratchbuilt skip. The Hornby Lowmac was an "accidental" purchase from the shop; it needs the couplings modified, they're too rigid for the long wheelbase and cause derailments. The backhoe loader being carried is the excellent Kibri kit.

 

So this is where it stands. Next I need to shorten the LH point at the mouth of the yard by 33mm, to keep it all within the box. Then track gluing and ballasting can commence, both interesting given the cardboard base. At least the bases are flat again, after being kept under weight whenever I'm not working on it. I've also got plans for a pipe crossing front-to-back in front of the workshed, to keep the front-left corner of the box rigid when I fold the front down for eye-level viewing. Anyway, thanks for following along so far!

[Guest Saltburn]

Hi TechnicArrow your layout is taking shap nicely and I love what you have achieved with the low relief warehouse nice modelling skills.

[Gibbo675]

Hi Mr TA,

 

I had a thought today that might be of interest, would a wall papering table be a good space saving base to build a small layout in. It would fold quite flat and be stowed under a bed or down the side of a wardrobe and open out into a fairly good size while being a bit more rigid that a shoe box. You might have to invent pop up buildings though !

 

Good luck wit the shoe box scheme all the same.

 

Gibbo.

[TechnicArrow]

Saltburn, thanks again!

 

Hi Mr TA,

 

I had a thought today that might be of interest, would a wall papering table be a good space saving base to build a small layout in. It would fold quite flat and be stowed under a bed or down the side of a wardrobe and open out into a fairly good size while being a bit more rigid that a shoe box. You might have to invent pop up buildings though !

 

Good luck wit the shoe box scheme all the same.

 

Gibbo.

Thank you! It's definitely an idea, one I've heard/seen people use frequently. As you say, buildings are a problem; I think the easiest way would be to make them removable, but then it's harder to blend their bases into the layout. I'll likely use one for a future project, but this one was intended to "see if I can", and also to use up some spares left from the main layout without buying too much new.

 

This morning I stole Dad's hacksaw and soldering iron. The aim was to only modify the already-damaged LH point (see first post), keeping the new RH one pristine. I did have to shorten the rail joiners and nick a corner off a sleeper, but all the hacking was done to the older one; I took off as much rail as I could from the toe, as it was missing it's sleepers anyway, and the remainder I trimmed off the straight line above the frog. I also soldered (very badly) a joining wire across the two lines, as one switchblade doesn't reliably make contact. I can still isolate a loco on the front siding, or in the shed by using the second point. Not that there's room to run two locos at once!

Now I can trim the plain track to fit around them, and glue it all down. Any recommendations for suitable glue?

[Booking Hall]

I'm really enjoying this build TechnicArrow, I do like 'hemmed in' industrial type layouts!. I used EvoStik 'Timebond' to glue my track down in my boxfile take on this idea as it doesn't wet the cardboard base so avoiding any potential for warping. You just have to make sure you've got the track in the right place first time tough, as it has very good 'grab'.

[TechnicArrow]

Thanks! It's just a shame I've used PVA then! I spread a thin layer on the base, placed the track down and sprinkled some dried garden soil as a base layer for the ballast. I forgot to leave out the area around the tiebars so some salvage was required, but I left it under weight for the night and it's held quite well without warping the base. I'll do the same tonight with the plain track, once I've cut it to size. 

Other work has included printing and building the walls either side of the bridge, and adding a small papier-mache embankment. I've also "whitewahsed" (poster paint) the interior of the main shed, and given it a roof. It's floor will be card, built up to just below the rail height. Here's how it looks with some rolling stock and extra items.

I've decided that at the front there will be a segment of fence and a gate for road access, which will cross the tracks by gravel piled up between the point check rails. I'll cut the front of the box so it can fold down for eye-level viewing. This means that I will need a block at the front-left for reinforcement, but the whole thing still fits into 2 neat, protected boxes.

Now, this is going to be a shunting layout, so I need uncoupling. As I'm using tension locks I think I'll go with a bowed ramp of clear, thin transparent plastic, unless anyone has a better system. Anyway, thanks for looking!

[Booking Hall]

Looking better all the time. Looking forward to the next installment.

[TechnicArrow]

Significant progress has occurred, although it doesn't look very different in the photos! Mainly, all the track has been cut and glued down with PVA. The curve in the shed is Setrack, whereas the front siding is flexible track. It didn't form as nice a curve as I had hoped, but the gaps aren't too huge! Said front siding received a base layer of soil whilst there was PVA around, whilst the shed has had a card floor built up outside the rails. I think I'll just use clean ballast in the "4 foot" rather than card, to maintain good running.

Other activities included nailing a piece of dowel for a pipe bridge along the left end, to keep the front corner rigid. It's secured to the warehouse at the back, which has been glued in. The front corner will be clad in more printed stone. I've also raided the scrap-box for fencing along the front; I couldn't find a gate, so I've used a chain to block the road entrance to the yard. The signal I've placed was stolen from the main layout. I'm not sure about it; I've got an unbuilt spare one to hand, but I don't think there'd be one there IRL. I might put a banner repeater or a ground/shunting signal instead, to add something to that corner. 

Finally, the front of the box was cut and folded down, to allow eye-level viewing. I love the view of the 04 over the fence and chain-gate, it's one of the scenes I wanted to achieve. Overall, it's exactly as I was hoping for; a layout that hides how it can put away into 2 neat boxes.

Since these photos, I've painted the pipe, the front of the box and the embankment, and added foliage to the latter. Across the bridge I think I'm going for an overgrown track or something, there's not much depth to it so it doesn't matter too much. Next up is adding ground cover to the lot of it; for the track, I haven't decided whether to continue with the soil, or use some recovered mixed ballast instead. Any preferences? Either way, thanks for following.

[johnsmithuk]

I am loving the way you are modifying without much expenditure to make a good looking model, keep it up.

[IncorrectlySpelt]

I've just read through this thread a couple times and I'm amazed at how detailed and well done this is, even as a student

[mrgoodspeed]

>>Now, this is going to be a shunting layout, so I need uncoupling. As I'm using tension locks I think I'll go with a bowed ramp of clear, thin transparent plastic, unless anyone has a better system. Anyway, thanks for looking!

 

Do let us know how you get on with this - and the dimensions of your plastic. I’ve tried the same on my “Dairy Box” but so far haven’t managed to get a satisfactory result. So I’d love to know the correct size!

[luke the train spotter]

I have seen an oo gauge layout at an exhibition where the builder had super glued staples to the hook of the coupling and stuck neodymium magnets inbetween the sleepers. It worked very well and the operator was kind enough to let me have a go with them.

[mrgoodspeed]

I have seen an oo gauge layout at an exhibition where the builder had super glued staples to the hook of the coupling and stuck neodymium magnets inbetween the sleepers. It worked very well and the operator was kind enough to let me have a go with them.

Does that require any space below the track? Like this layout, i have no space under the track.

[luke the train spotter]

Does that require any space below the track? Like this layout, i have no space under the track.

no, in between the sleepers. The magnets are quite small and not very deep.

Does that require any space below the track? Like this layout, i have no space under the track.

no, in between the sleepers. The magnets are quite small and not very deep.

[TechnicArrow]

I haven't neglected this layout, honest! Well OK, I have, what with a short holiday and my hobby-time attention being elsewhere. But I have returned! I hope I can "finished" the works in about 2 weeks, so I can take it with me when I return to University.

@Mrgoodspeed - I had almost completely forgotten about uncoupling. My early plan was to hold the plastic in place by gluing to the underside of the sleepers, but all the track is laid and ballasted now so that's not happening. I'm not sure whether I'll stick with this plan or not. RE thickness, I was experimenting with a pile of pieces I've collected over the years as spares from kits and bits of packaging, so I have no idea what meausrement works best.

@lukethetrainspotter - I've seen that idea before, but I've read mixed reviews. I think the magnets might be too obtrusive. But then so is anything else I can do, so we'll see.

 

Since I last posted the main progress has been finishing the ground cover, except around the long siding. The plain card represents concrete hard standing and needs painting. I've also installed a road crossing from carefully cut used matchsticks (possible my favourite thing for representing wood), sanded to be flush with rail height. The tree is not fixed yet, but I like framing different scenes with foreground "obstacles" so it's staying. This time, the photos are with the ubiquitous Hornby Holden Dock tank and GWR stock.

Finally, I've been thinking about the main shed roof. My early plan was to print off some roof slates, but I decided that would be quite flat and uninteresting (not to mention expensive on ink). Instead, I came up with a plan to model corrugated sheets with crinkled card, made using a LEGO-built crinkler. I tried it on scraps of paper, thin card and cereal box card:

The cereal box was too stiff and the paper a bit flimsy, so I raided the cupboard for a full sheet of thin card to use. I found some that might be suitable, but then I came across this:

It's corrugated card glued to a piece of flat card, intended for greetings card making I think. I reckon that cut into small sections and carefully overlapped it will work well, and is quite easier and sturdier than my card. Now I need to cut, glue and paint it!

[johnsmithuk]

That LEGO crinkle maker is great.

[Edwardian]

Concentrated brilliance.  Like the project very much.

[Guest Nero]

TA I have finally caught reading about your build and the modelling work is really good and I like the idea of using matchsticks for the crossing.