EasyBuild Class 101 - An Epilogue

[woodyfox]

Hi all,

 

I've just completed the construction of a Met-Camm 101 kit courtesy of EasyBuild.

 

I attempted a step by step build thread before and I just get too involved in modelling, forgetting as a result, the necessary photography and thread updating. Therefore, I thought I'd build the thing, discover the pitfalls and solve the usual 7mm kit building problems and then provide a summary of how I got here.

 

There's a vast wealth of information and images available online. The only thing I found difficulty in researching was the allocation and pairing on any particular dates of the vehicles being portrayed.

Special mention must go the Railcar.co.uk as a resource for images and information. A really superb site for all things DMU.

 

My chosen subjects are a DMBS and DTCL based at Darlington or Leeds around 68-75. 

 

I'll write up a summary of the build in due course to help anyone contemplating constructing an EasyBuild 101. For now here's a few images of the completed set:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Regards

 

 

[sej]

That's superb! I'd like to read your build summary, particulalry about how you did the cab windows! Fantastic paint job too

 

Cheers

Simon

[woodyfox]

Kit Overview and Preparation.

 

The quality of the kit is superb. I've built kits by MMP (08) and DJH (47) and Connoisseur (J72) and this one measures up really well. I treat kits as a means to achieve a particular goal. An as example, the MMP 08 is literally a complete kit with virtually nothing to scratchbuild or adapt to create a particular model. The EasyBuild 101 is, as an aid, around 90% of the way there. 

 

The 101 I wanted was in pre-refurbishment condition. The main issues to address therefore was the removal/non-inclusion of a continuous rain-strip and the ommission of ventilation grills on the coach sides. 

 

A very prominent issue with the EasyBuild 101 as presented is the roof section. A study of a 101 profile reveals a shallower, more gentle arc profile than the roof supplied which appears to be a standard coach roof. Holding the roof against the cab profile shows a differential of around 1.5mm at the apex that shallows out to a matching profile at the point of sharper curvature just above the rain-strip. Following some (not enough, as it turned out) thought on how to match the roof profile to the cab profile, I decided to glue some coarse sandpaper to the inside of a wide bore tube (plastic guttering would suffice) an rub down 1.5mm of roof, checking regularly for a matching fit. This process took an age. The plastic used is tough and there is a lot of material to removed. I carried on until the profiles matched (DMBS roof) and then worked on getting a good flush match on the rear end. This appears to have been an issue with EasyBuild roof and end matching, but if time is taken to identify where excess material needs removing no issues should arise. 

 

For the DTCL roof I had a 'light bulb' moment. Instead of sanding off 1.5mm of material from the top of the roof, I estimated that the same profile could be achieved by sanding down the bottom edges of the roof to just above the moulded rain-strips. This method worked a treat, with the additional bonus that it took a fraction of the time of the top sanding method and eliminated the unwanted rain-strip at the same time.

 

The cab mouldings capture the proptotype very well indeed and no issues at all arose.

 

For the sides, I filed a 45 deg angle on the top of the doors to better represent something that opens. The DMBS also requires square holes measuring and cutting for the coolant filler points. Images were studied to estimate the correct position and the fillers were scratchbuilt. The instructions are silent on the coolant fillers but I later discovered white metal casting are provided to represent them.

 

The major task that eventually defines the instantly recognisable profile of the un-refurbished 101 is the creation of a smooth transition between the roof and body-sides. Because, on the DTCL, I'd already removed the rain-strip and inner strip on which the side sits (making a neat way to join the two) I used strips of plywood and G clamps to hold the roof and sides in place, using Mekpak to create a solid bond. Once the joint had hardened (one week curing time allowed), I repeatedly used used filler and wet and dry paper (400) to achieve the proper profile, finishing off with 1200 grit to get a good finish. This process took many hours (the instructions emphasis the benefits of extended effort here) and I filled, sanded, filled and sanded many times before I was happy. If I build another, it will be a a white/blue refurbished set with rain-strips (thus saving about a months worth of modelling time!).

 

Next bogies, motor and underframe.

 

Regards

[D6775]

Looking forward to reading your experience with this, I bought one earlier this year intending it to be a summer project, a house move has intervened along with other things therefore it is now a winter project!!

 

I did offer some of the bits up to each other and came across my first stumbling block, the side profile didn't seem to marry up cleanly with the cab end. I know I need to trim something down but wasn't sure what. I'm planning to take a good look at one at Telford in a couple of weeks time. Sounds like re-profiling the roof could be interesting.

 

Al.

[MarshLane]

Hi all,

 

I've just completed the construction of a Met-Camm 101 kit courtesy of EasyBuild.

 

I'll write up a summary of the build in due course to help anyone contemplating constructing an EasyBuild 101. For now here's a few images of the completed set:

 

 

Yes, please.  I am looking at a 101 and 108 for my layout - although they will be a bit down the kit list! But any tips, hints and insights would be welcome.

 

Rich

[woodyfox]

Looking forward to reading your experience with this, I bought one earlier this year intending it to be a summer project, a house move has intervened along with other things therefore it is now a winter project!!

 

I did offer some of the bits up to each other and came across my first stumbling block, the side profile didn't seem to marry up cleanly with the cab end. I know I need to trim something down but wasn't sure what. I'm planning to take a good look at one at Telford in a couple of weeks time. Sounds like re-profiling the roof could be interesting.

 

Al.

Al,

 

If you offer up the sides to the cab you'll find an angle of cab section just above the door needs removing on each side. It's a fiddly angle of about 1mm tapering to nothing. A few careful strokes with a file with very frequent offering up sorts it out. The necessity of the operation is touched upon in the instructions.

 

Cheers

[woodyfox]

That's superb! I'd like to read your build summary, particulalry about how you did the cab windows! Fantastic paint job too

 

Cheers

Simon

Thanks Simon. I'll cover glazing in build sequence. The glazing supplied is sublime in it's quality and fits really easily.

[woodyfox]

Hi all,

 

The bogies as supplied are standard EasyBuild DMU types. 

 

They go together very well and, with weathering, can give a decent representation. There are simple steps that can improve them though. As usual, a study of images shows that the brakes as supplied can be much improved. I scratch built new blocks from plastic strip using the 'blocks' supplied as the shoes onto which the blocks were glued. To curve the blocks, I filled a glass bottle with boiled water and wrapped plastic strip around the outside, taping it in place. A few hours later, I had curled strip that was cut to suitable lengths. I drilled the shoes and fabricated hangers with 2x holes through which plastic rod was past. Although repetitive (32 blocks on a two car set), it was worth it as the bogies look better for it (see below):

 

 

A further issue was that I was only supplied with enough bogie bolster mouldings for one vehicle. Rather than wait for some to be forwarded, I decided to spend a fruitful hour studying images and scratching some up out of scrap brass. The ones supplied are not particularly accurate for a 101 but i decided to have different bolsters as they would be hardly noticed being on separate cars.

 

Here's an image of the homemade ones on the DMBS:

 

 

To complete the bogies, I scratch built the bogie rear stretcher to show the curvature to allow clearance for the drives as per prototype. The ones supplied are standard straight ones. All steps on the bogies use real wood strip on the supplied brass etch which add just a bit of extra realism. It is also worth noting that most DMBS vehicles had a double width step for the guards doors. The one supplied is a single width. I just cut the etch in half before bending and then used the wood step to rejoin the two to the correct width.

 

The motor bogie uses roller bearings and is very free running. In order to remove the drive, motor and gears at a future point, I adapted the stretcher using drilled plastic blocks with captive nuts on each bogie side end and matching blocks on the stretcher. These then are held in place by bolts passing through both blocks and nuts (14BA).

 

 

 

The under parts are decent white metal castings and folding brass etches. I would encourage very careful study of lots of images. I added quite a few extra bits and tended to copy images with additional wire etc. added to represent piping and ducting. You could go on forever with detailing here and it really adds to the overall effect. I decided to concentrate on things that would be visible from the normal eye level side on view.

 

Additional bits added were as follows:

Bracket supports for the battery boxes and fuel tanks

Additional electrical control boxes

Support hangers for the exhaust system

Control sensors on the heater units

Plastic strip to bring out the detail on battery boxes

 

The fuel tanks as supplied are single sided. Luckily four are on the etches and you only need two, so I adapted two spare tanks but chopping and bending to form complete, double sided tanks with two gauges, drains and feed pipes as per prototype.

 

Finally, I added pick up to all wheels on the DMBS. I went through a process of adding pick-ups on the DTCL too, intending to carry the current via the jumper cabling between the cars. Representing the jumper cabling was difficult and, as the DMBS ran well on its own, all wheel pick up was abandoned. 

 

A final important consideration for the underframes (particularly when adding underframe details) is how to attach the body shells on. EasyBuild supply long blackened bolts with square captive nuts that slide in the roof channels. I wanted to limit such things being visible so I carefully measured and installed plastic strip between the inner sides of the vehicles at floor level in the door vestibules with captive nuts glued in (two-part slow setting epoxy resin). Shortened bolts then secure the bodies without anything being visible from the outside. The drawback is that the fitting of internal vestibule panels and seating has to be adapted to suit this arrangement. Lots of studying and thinking required here! The motor rises through the floor of the brake van area of the DMBS. I decided to build a plastic box to hide it. I'm not sure if it works though. I painted the box light grey as per the internal walls of a 101 van. To me it stands out too much. I have four future option here: 1. remove the box. 2. paint it black. 3. paint it to like like a huge pile of parcels. 4. leave it be.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next internal stuff and windows.

 

Regards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

[D6775]

Al,

 

If you offer up the sides to the cab you'll find an angle of cab section just above the door needs removing on each side. It's a fiddly angle of about 1mm tapering to nothing. A few careful strokes with a file with very frequent offering up sorts it out. The necessity of the operation is touched upon in the instructions.

 

Cheers

I did read that in the instructions but couldn't get my head round whether I should file down the cab or the bodyside! I will take a proper look and make are start once I've moved. Will be coming back to read your write ups when I get cracking!

 

Al

[woodyfox]

I did read that in the instructions but couldn't get my head round whether I should file down the cab or the bodyside! I will take a proper look and make are start once I've moved. Will be coming back to read your write ups when I get cracking!

 

Al

The sides are nice and square. If you match the bottom of the side to the bottom of the cab, the amount and angle to remove from the cab appears clear.

[muddys-blues]

Nice build that Woodyfox, I have a 3 car set in my stash, i particularly like what you have done with making the housing round the motor, a simple but effective way of hiding it.

 

Best regards

Craig.

[woodyfox]

Nice build that Woodyfox, I have a 3 car set in my stash, i particularly like what you have done with making the housing round the motor, a simple but effective way of hiding it.

 

Best regards

Craig.

Thanks Craig.

[woodyfox]

Internals and windows:

 

Hi all,

 

To be frank I didn't spend as much time on the internal details (although I need crew and possibly a few passengers adding). The panels supplied are very accurate and I fitted mine on a plastic sheet base with the seats. You get either 2 or 3 person width seats. For the first class seats I chopped about a third off a 3 seater and made new legs. Small armrests are supplied on the sprue. I improved the first class seats further by adding plastic strip to the tops to represent head rests, filing it to a round shape once the bond had hardened. Railcar.co.uk display a Met Camm publicity image of the internal colour scheme. In the absence of suitable images for the period modelled, I chose to follow the scheme specified for my batch of builds as new as stated on the Railcar site.

 

Aside from the addition of humanity, further improvements will be the addition of antimacassars in first class, a representation of steel parts on the seats, an attempt to recreate the upholstery patterns and research into the presence of curtains in first class during this period.

 

Again, Railcar.co.uk have the BR issued seating plans for all DMU batches.

 

The glazing is separated into two types, the car sides and the car ends. The car ends require a light rub on the edges on some wet and dry to get a good fit. The side windows require similar. I rubbed mine down to the point where they were a 'sloppy' fit. Once the cars had 2 coats of primer and 4-5 coats of Railmatch blue (air-brushed), they fitted well. 

 

A significant make or break feature of a 101 of this period is the aluminium window frames. I deviated from the instructions here in that I bent the slide handles on the openers out whilst they were still on the etch using 2 sharpened flat screwdrivers on either side of the folds to bend them up. I then primed (Humbrol no1) and painted the frames whilst still on the etch with Humbrol no56 aluminium. 

 

The window frames were held in place on the outside using Tamiya masking tape and glued from the inside using Loctite cyanoacrylate (runny type) on the end of a pin. A similar method was then used on the glazing using a 50/50 water childs PVA mix. I read that this formula was a great cheap canopy glue from a US vehicle modelling site. I've used other, dedicated, types in the past, but this is actually the best.

 

Next: Vestibules and cab ends

 

Regards

[woodyfox]

Vestibules, Cab Ends and Roofs

 

Hi all,

 

The cab shapes capture the prototype really well and require no work beyond the instructions. I did feel the need to represent the rivets on the classification indicators. The 'B2' blinds are a straight print-off on ordinary plain paper using a font available within Microsoft Word. I experimented with sizes. A similar exercise was carried out for the destination blinds. I did notice variations in size and spacing (and possibly font type) between different cars on the prototype. I used a very pale yellow/cream colour on a black background to imitate the yellowed state of BR roller blinds from a combination of exposure of heat/colour from tungsten bulbs, cigarette smoke and general fumes. The instructions have recently been revised to advise that the buffer beams should be adhered to the vehicles as opposed to the sole bars. Whichever methos is adopted, careful and constant offering up is required to ensure a comfortable fit. The major adaptation on the buffer beam was the adaptation of the vacuum pipes to be the higher types. It's worth studying your chosen prototype. Easybuild supply pipes for lower sited examples but some cars had both pipes high, both low or one high one low (originally Chester/LM allocated units but they moved around!).

 

The instructions don't cover the vestibule end corridor connections in any depth but the parts required are few and it's a simple construction process. One issue to bear in mind is the development of a method to separate the body from the chassis but still allow for a representation of continuous exhaust pipes. I attached a short length of brass tube to the bottom of each exhaust stack pipe and a similar length of tube to the end of the representation of the exhaust pipes under the DMBS solebars. It was then a simple process to bend up some 1.3mm brass rod to represent the exhaust system section that bends around the underside of the rear DMBS buffers. These sections are removed prior to separating the DMBS body from the chassis. The wire is shown as below:

 

 

 

Class 101 vehicles have a riveted paneled roof and Easybuild supply an exquisite thin brass etch overlay. The overlay requires bending to shape. I made a simple bending tool for this out of a sheet of MDF, 2x batons and 3x lengths of uPVC waste pipe. The bottom 2 pipes are held in place by the batons. The overlay is set upon the pipes and the third pipe is gently 'rolled' over the etch. The process is very simple and the etch can be adjusted to form differing radii. Easybulid recommend gluing the overlay on the roof once the sides and ends are in place. I decided, due to a lack of suitable clamps, to glue the overlay prior to building the vehicle up. I opened out several (strategic ones) of the roof vent holes with corresponding holes in the roof and used nuts and bolts to hold the overlay on place (once a layer of adhesive (PVA) have been very thinly applied and then used about 20 bulldog clips on the sides and clamps on the ends to hold everything firm. This was left 72 hours to dry. 'Oozed' glue can be carefully scraped off around the edges.

 

Roof bending tool:

 

 

 

Next painting, transfers and general summary.

 

Thanks for reading - I hope some of this helps!

 

Regards

 

   

[woodyfox]

Hi all,

 

Painting:

 

The all blue 101 is a simple (enamel) paint job. Humbrol 01 primer (grey),  Humbrol matt 32 dark grey was used for the roof. Railmatch rail blue for the body and Railmatch weathered yellow for the ends. The underframes were brushed with a mix of matt black, matt white and Railmatch BR bauxite giving a washed out filthy look. Features were picked out with colours as referenced to images. A dry brushing of track dirt and brake dust finished off the effect. Door hinges and stops were lightly dry brushed over with a very dark grey mix to give the impression of dirty grease spread.

 

Transfers:

 

The transfers are by Railtech as made to order for my specific set. Great service and great quality transfers. The first class and no smoking stickers were from the same source. It took quite a bit of studying images to determine the exact locations of smoking and no smoking areas during the period depicted. There are a multitude of images available from the classic 45 degree angle, but few from side on that help. This was also an issue with the proper siting of underframe details.

 

Summary:

 

In conclusion the build went quicker than I expected. I estimate a build time of around 250 to 300 hours. For anyone contemplating building a DMU that's used to building locomotives it's worth remembering the large amount of additional features and work required. The engine 'room' is effectively on the outside and so has to be modelled at the same time as a visible complete interior. Working in plastic presents challenges not encountered in brass. Plastic warps and has a good memory, once glued it rarely comes apart without damage and different plastics like different adhesives.

 

This is an excellent kit. The detailing offered and likeness to the prototype demonstrates that the designer invested a considerable amount of effort into it's development. With so many 101 cars being built, variations between batches and cars are inevitably numerous and so extensive research and a careful choice of prototype is highly advised.

 

Thanks for reading.  

Edited September 7, 2018 by woodyfox

[Fastdax]

Very useful and informative, Woody.

 

I'm thinking of an EB 108 at some point in the future and I'll keep your distilled wisdom of the 101 build to hand.

[muddys-blues]

Very useful and informative, Woody.

 

I'm thinking of an EB 108 at some point in the future and I'll keep your distilled wisdom of the 101 build to hand.

Andy Sidall of this parish has built & documented an EB 108 unit, well worth searching it out.

 

Best regards

Craig

[woodyfox]

Very useful and informative, Woody.

 

I'm thinking of an EB 108 at some point in the future and I'll keep your distilled wisdom of the 101 build to hand.

Thanks Duncan, the build is very involved. I attempted, in this résumé, to try and highlight the areas in which I either deviated from the recommended building process; added extra detailing or, felt the instructions were silent.

 

Thanks and regards

[Fastdax]

Andy Sidall of this parish has built & documented an EB 108 unit, well worth searching it out.

 

 

Thanks Craig.

 

I have the build by Spenc bookmarked but I'll look for Andy's as well.

[D6775]

All very interesting and already helped me on my build. I have got the first body almost together this morning. Will need to have a go at the roof mods you describe though.

[woodyfox]

All very interesting and already helped me on my build. I have got the first body almost together this morning. Will need to have a go at the roof mods you describe though.

Glad it's been helpful. I've enjoyed building it immensely. I'm going to list it for sale on EBay now to raise funds for other interests so if you need any further help it will be from memory!

 

Regards

[D6775]

Glad it's been helpful. I've enjoyed building it immensely. I'm going to list it for sale on EBay now to raise funds for other interests so if you need any further help it will be from memory!

 

Regards

 

Its going to be a slow burner, I have just done the HInges and door stops ont eh DTCL while I ponder the roof issue. I may well build the bogies next!

[Crook lad]

I realise that it is some time since the last post on the thread, but I have just purchased a 3 car 101 set. I wondered if you had any issue with the matching of the profiles between the cab and the coach sides. I am finding it difficult to align them without the need to remove some material from either the cab or the sides themselves. I have tried to keep the spacing correct for the fitting of both the roof and the floor, but this results in the body sides protruding about 0.5mm around the centre part. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

[woodyfox]

I realise that it is some time since the last post on the thread, but I have just purchased a 3 car 101 set. I wondered if you had any issue with the matching of the profiles between the cab and the coach sides. I am finding it difficult to align them without the need to remove some material from either the cab or the sides themselves. I have tried to keep the spacing correct for the fitting of both the roof and the floor, but this results in the body sides protruding about 0.5mm around the centre part. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Hi,

 

Mine had a similar profile. You have two options in my experience:

 

1. If it's just .5mm then a gradual sanding down to match will work. If you choose to do this, I would build the body first to check profiles once adhesives have fully cured to see how they have affected the plastic. You may find different areas require work.

2. Just leave it as it's a door seam and may assist in highlighting that fact on the finished article.

 

Hope this helps?

 

Please note the cab section requires an angled removal of material to allow a snug fit where the cab roof meets the side (cab door section). I also filed a small 45 deg angle at the top of the door sections to highlight the seam/opening.

 

Cheers