Cwm Prysor - 'The Bala Branch'

[Captain Kernow]

Indeed, Messr Wright!

The other gentleman is Mr Geoff Taylor.

 

Semi-serious question, Tom - will they become part of the general Modelu range?

[Tom F]

Semi-serious question, Tom - will they become part of the general Modelu range?

 

 

They were personal scans, but I asked both gents first and they were both happy for me to purchase examples of themselves.

[wiggoforgold]

Tom, I think you are corrupting me. I have spent the evening looking at pictures of the Plymouth to Launceston branch and thinking how it could be modelled along the lines of your take on the Blaneau Festiniog line, in the space currently occupied by Diddington. For Cwm Prysor think Shaugh Bridge and for Bala think Yelverton.

Alex

[Tom F]

Tom, I think you are corrupting me. I have spent the evening looking at pictures of the Plymouth to Launceston branch and thinking how it could be modelled along the lines of your take on the Blaneau Festiniog line, in the space currently occupied by Diddington. For Cwm Prysor think Shaugh Bridge and for Bala think Yelverton.

Alex

 

 

Well in that case, let the corruption continue Alex!

[Tom F]

Finally some modelling to show!

I've been working on the crossing these past few nights. Trains now pass, but I'll sand down some of the DAS clay a touch before painting.

 

 

Meanwhile I took delivery of a 58XX from Hattons, to be 5810. I've had a rather chequered history with these models sending several back. This one seems to be good. Running is fairly smooth forward, a little (and I mean little) jerky in reverse....but I've not amended CVs yet (I may need some help with this, it's a few years since I looked into CVs and I fully admit to being a DCC novice).

 

Anyhow I'm happy at last, and it's nice to have something that isn't a Pannier (as much as I love Panniers!). 5810 will need some alterations to be correctly depicted. First the tool boxes need to be central of the splasher, which means removing the side lamp irons (I'll add Masokit replacements). Hattons have fitted the smokebox lamp iron central, which it shouldn't be, it should be slightly to the locos right so the lamp will be central (good old GWR and it's lamp irons!).

 

 

 

After the detail amendments it will be finally time for weathering, which I'm really looking forward to. I've a lovely late 1950s colour photo to work from.

Edited November 9, 2018 by 9793

[Tom F]

Non modelling related, but I thought I'd share these photos.

I'm just home from performing at Ripon Cathedral as part of the Orchestra in Brittern's War Requiem. Very powerful and emotional performance, made all the more poignant by the projections on the outside of Ripon Cathedral.

 

 

 

[St Enodoc]

Non modelling related, but I thought I'd share these photos.

I'm just home from performing at Ripon Cathedral as part of the Orchestra in Brittern's War Requiem. Very powerful and emotional performance, made all the more poignant by the projections on the outside of Ripon Cathedral.

 

46094157_10156189019262984_1251208953547718656_o.jpg

 

45858255_10156189019317984_8066422299600879616_o.jpg

 

45745612_10156189019617984_5716067920073719808_o.jpg

What do you play Tom?

[Tom F]

What do you play Tom?

 

 

Viola professionally, but primarily teach violin.

[kandc_au]

Non modelling related, but I thought I'd share these photos.

I'm just home from performing at Ripon Cathedral as part of the Orchestra in Brittern's War Requiem. Very powerful and emotional performance, made all the more poignant by the projections on the outside of Ripon Cathedral.

 

46094157_10156189019262984_1251208953547718656_o.jpg

 

45858255_10156189019317984_8066422299600879616_o.jpg

 

45745612_10156189019617984_5716067920073719808_o.jpg

Sorry Tom but none of the icons are suitable...That is a WOW!!!!!

 

Khris

[Tom F]

I've already posted this in Hatton's thread but I might as well post it here.

 

I'd fully tested this loco and run it in. Thankful to at last get a good one....I thought! So had started altering/detailing the bodywork to be correct for Bala's 5810.

Went to take some photos and give it another run on the layout....everything seemed fine at first....and then this....

 

 

Absolutely gutted.

 

Tim (Captain Kernow)..... I'll probably be messaging you at some point regarding removal of the body and the 'crap' that's called a mechanism.

[Gordon A]

I think I have read somewhere that spare lamps should always face in to the body?

 

Gordon A

[Denbridge]

I've already posted this in Hatton's thread but I might as well post it here.

 

I'd fully tested this loco and run it in. Thankful to at last get a good one....I thought! So had started altering/detailing the bodywork to be correct for Bala's 5810.

Went to take some photos and give it another run on the layout....everything seemed fine at first....and then this....

 

 

Absolutely gutted.

 

Tim (Captain Kernow)..... I'll probably be messaging you at some point regarding removal of the body and the 'crap' that's called a mechanism.

I've given up on Hattons and these awful chassis. My 3 will be getting new ones from High Level kits. Such a shame

They should be amazing. They certainly look the part.

[Tom F]

I think I have read somewhere that spare lamps should always face in to the body?

 

Gordon A

 

 

From the photos I've got 5810 tends to have the lamp outward facing, I suspect it was one of those things that the rules say one thing, but in practice.....

[gismorail]

Non modelling related, but I thought I'd share these photos.

I'm just home from performing at Ripon Cathedral as part of the Orchestra in Brittern's War Requiem. Very powerful and emotional performance, made all the more poignant by the projections on the outside of Ripon Cathedral.

 

46094157_10156189019262984_1251208953547718656_o.jpg

 

45858255_10156189019317984_8066422299600879616_o.jpg

 

45745612_10156189019617984_5716067920073719808_o.jpg

I can only agree with you about this most empowering place I was only a couple of weeks ago singing Evensong there.  (sent you a pm)

[Captain Kernow]

My 3 will be getting new ones from High Level kits. 

Some key advice from what I have learned so far:

 

- If you want to accommodate a decent motor and gearbox combination, you'll need to remove the DJM coreless motor block and the mazak block that surrounds it

- You will also be well advised to cut/grind out the spectacle plate/bulkhead moulding immediately in front of the backhead moulding. If you do, you'll gain an extra 5mm or so and it won't show anywhere, nor should it affect the structural integrity of the body

- In order to remove the motor, it's plastic cradle and the mazak block without resorting to messy mazak grinding like I did, you'll need to unscrew the side tank/cab moulding from the footplate moulding. It is quite possible that the smokebox/boiler/firebox moulding will need to be removed at the same time

- There is a small 12BA (ish) screw at the front, underneath the smokebox, which releases the front of the boiler assembly

- There are two small, similar screws inside the coal bunker, which will help loosen the side tank/cab moulding. You'll need to remove the plastic coal to get at these

- There may be other screws to deal with, before the main components come apart, but I didn't go down that route.

- When separating the side tank/cab moulding from the footplate moulding, you will need to separate/(?)break(?) the finely-modelled conduits, which are fixed to both parts of the loco body Not wanting to affect these (and have to reinstate them later), was one of my motivations for not separating the main body mouldings, to remove the mazak etc.

- It is possible that the side tank/cab mouldings also feature some kind of clipping arrangement with the footplate moulding. I may be wrong about this, as I didn't take any prisoners when removing the plastic motor cradle and motor, so if there is any such arrangement, I would have removed it with my burr, before I realised what it was!

 

If using any etched chassis kit (whether Comet or High Level), you will probably need to remove some metal from the tops of the frames, to get the ride height correct with the Hattons/DJM body. I suspect that both Comet and High Level have aimed their chassis kits at the former Airfix (now Hornby) body. I know Perseverance did, and I certainly had to remove some metal on mine. There is a photo on one of my blog entries, which gives some indication of this.

 

Unless you want to install the same kind of 'lash up' gearbox as me, driving the front axle, you will need to consider motor/gearbox options to drive the rear driven axle. I am not familiar with the High Level chassis kit, but I suspect Chris Gibbon will have designed a bespoke gear box, so if you use that one, you will need to give some thought as to how the motor will fit inside the body shell.

 

I believe that the High Level kit includes a representation of inside valve gear. Remember that you won't need that with the Hattons/DJM body, unless you wish to also cut their plastic moulded representation of same out from the body shell.

Edited November 12, 2018 by Captain Kernow

[Denbridge]

Some key advice from what I have learned so far:

 

- If you want to accommodate a decent motor and gearbox combination, you'll need to remove the DJM coreless motor block and the mazak block that surrounds it

- You will also be well advised to cut/grind out the spectacle plate/bulkhead moulding immediately in front of the backhead moulding. If you do, you'll gain an extra 5mm or so and it won't show anywhere, nor should it affect the structural integrity of the body

- In order to remove the motor, it's plastic cradle and the mazak block without resorting to messy mazak grinding like I did, you'll need to unscrew the side tank/cab moulding from the footplate moulding. It is quite possible that the smokebox/boiler/firebox moulding will need to be removed at the same time

- There is a small 12BA (ish) screw at the front, underneath the smokebox, which releases the front of the boiler assembly

- There are two small, similar screws inside the coal bunker, which will help loosen the side tank/cab moulding. You'll need to remove the plastic coal to get at these

- There may be other screws to deal with, before the main components come apart, but I didn't go down that route.

- When separating the side tank/cab moulding from the footplate moulding, you will need to separate/(?)break(?) the finely-modelled conduits, which are fixed to both parts of the loco body Not wanting to affect these (and have to reinstate them later), was one of my motivations for not separating the main body mouldings, to remove the mazak etc.

- It is possible that the side tank/cab mouldings also feature some kind of clipping arrangement with the footplate moulding. I may be wrong about this, as I didn't take any prisoners when removing the plastic motor cradle and motor, so if there is any such arrangement, I would have removed it with my burr, before I realised what it was!

 

If using any etched chassis kit (whether Comet or High Level), you will probably need to remove some metal from the tops of the frames, to get the ride height correct with the Hattons/DJM body. I suspect that both Comet and High Level have aimed their chassis kits at the former Airfix (now Hornby) body. I know Perseverance did, and I certainly had to remove some metal on mine. There is a photo on one of my blog entries, which gives some indication of this.

 

Unless you want to install the same kind of 'lash up' gearbox as me, driving the front axle, you will need to consider motor/gearbox options to drive the rear driven axle. I am not familiar with the High Level chassis kit, but I suspect Chris Gibbon will have designed a bespoke gear box, so if you use that one, you will need to give some thought as to how the motor will fit inside the body shell.

 

I believe that the High Level kit includes a representation of inside valve gear. Remember that you won't need that with the Hattons/DJM body, unless you wish to also cut their plastic moulded representation of same out from the body shell.

Thanks for this. I've not had any of them apart yet so your notes will be most helpful

Fortunately, in my previous modelling life, 90% of my output was either kit or scratchbuilding.

Upon my return to the hobby, to state I was blown away by the standard of current RTR would be an understatement. The mechanical standard, together with the representation of rods and motion however are to me a serious disappointment. I can see most of my recent rtr chassis being replaced.

Some of my purchases either dont run at all, or are so lumpy at slow speeds its frankly a disgrace that these are marketed as 'working scale models.

Even after sometimes consideral remedial work, in many cases they are still below standard. In a couple of cases, brand new plastic gears have split BEFORE any use.

[Tom F]

Hi guys

 

Well as I posted in the Hattons thread, The 58XX has started working again and is running as it did prior to last night. The plan is to keep running it everyday until the weekend of the 24th when I’m planning to weather it. Obviously to try and get inside and add a new chassis would be preferable before weathering, hence I would like to give it a good 10 days.

 

I think it was the gears that became out of sync, careful prototypical running will hope for it not relapsing.

[Captain Kernow]

Hi guys

Well as I posted in the Hattons thread, The 58XX has started working again and is running as it did prior to last night. The plan is to keep running it everyday until the weekend of the 24th when I’m planning to weather it. Obviously to try and get inside and add a new chassis would be preferable before weathering, hence I would like to give it a good 10 days.

I think it was the gears that became out of sync, careful prototypical running will hope for it not relapsing.

Glad it's running better again, Tom. Hopefully the next few days will allow you to rebuild some trust in this model.

[Tom F]

Glad it's running better again, Tom. Hopefully the next few days will allow you to rebuild some trust in this model.

 

 

Thanks Tim....well it's still behaving fine tonight, so I took a snap of her.

 

[kandc_au]

Some key advice from what I have learned so far:

 

I realise that this is Toms thread and I hope he doesn't mind my suggestion BUT, I think that this whole post should be in a highlighted color so that anyone reading or referred to this thread can find this post easily.

Just my opinion.

Thanks for sharing it.

 

Khris

[Tom F]

I realise that this is Toms thread and I hope he doesn't mind my suggestion BUT, I think that this whole post should be in a highlighted color so that anyone reading or referred to this thread can find this post easily.

Just my opinion.

Thanks for sharing it.

 

Khris

Done as requested. Added a link to the bottom of the first post of the thread.

[Captain Kernow]

I realise that this is Toms thread and I hope he doesn't mind my suggestion BUT, I think that this whole post should be in a highlighted color so that anyone reading or referred to this thread can find this post easily.

Just my opinion.

Thanks for sharing it.

 

Khris

There is more information on my blog, covering the building of the replacement chassis and the modifications needed to the bod - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/21/entry-21526-new-chassis-for-the-hattons-14xx-part-3/#commentsStart

Edited November 13, 2018 by Captain Kernow

[Captain Kernow]

One other thing that I realised when building the Perseverance chassis concerns springing or compensation.

 

On the basis that any kind of springing or compensation will require moving hornblocks and if building this in OO, you will need to consider the choice of gearbox very carefully, as the High Level LoadHauler+ that forms the basis of mine, is approx 11mm wide and the distance between the frames in the OO version of the chassis is only 11.5mm.

 

Why bother with springing or compensation in OO, you might ask?

 

Well, although I find it helps a lot in P4, I also like to install it in OO locos, as I find it helps electrical pick up and general running qualities.

 

Because I decided to commit to the High Level 'lash up' on my 14XX, I have ended up building the chassis rigid, but will live with that. If you want to install hornblocks inside OO frames, you will need to check with High Level for which of their gearboxes are sufficiently narrow. As a back-up, I did buy one from Chris Gibbon that was originally designed for 3mm locos, as it has an overall width of about 6.5mm.

[Denbridge]

One other thing that I realised when building the Perseverance chassis concerns springing or compensation.

 

On the basis that any kind of springing or compensation will require moving hornblocks and if building this in OO, you will need to consider the choice of gearbox very carefully, as the High Level LoadHauler+ that forms the basis of mine, is approx 11mm wide and the distance between the frames in the OO version of the chassis is only 11.5mm.

 

Why bother with springing or compensation in OO, you might ask?

 

Well, although I find it helps a lot in P4, I also like to install it in OO locos, as I find it helps electrical pick up and general running qualities.

 

Because I decided to commit to the High Level 'lash up' on my 14XX, I have ended up building the chassis rigid, but will live with that. If you want to install hornblocks inside OO frames, you will need to check with High Level for which of their gearboxes are sufficiently narrow. As a back-up, I did buy one from Chris Gibbon that was originally designed for 3mm locos, as it has an overall width of about 6.5mm.

I used the Percy chassis under a couple of detailed and improved airfix autos. If they were still readily available I would probably use them again. I am a big fan of high level. Their chassis are superb having used them under a dean goods and a 57. I highly recommend them.

[Brassey]

For interest, this is my High Level chassis.  As can be seen it has a bespoke gearbox unique to this kit.  Mine is built compensated to P4 and which allows room between the frames for the dummy valve gear which could be a problem in OO

 

 

I have used quite a large motor (1428 I think) which is positioned well centrally due to the clever design of the gearbox but does project into the cab a bit.  I extended the back head to compensate for this.  Since this photo, pickups have been added and it runs fine.

 

Here is the chassis under my closed cab 517 which is why it has 517 axle boxes instead of the High Level lost wax ones that came with the kit