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Peco tank wagon chassis kit


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I have built one. I've attached a couple of photos, but they are of the completes model. Not sure if they will help. IIRC from when I had shop 2 there wass an error with the frame etch for which you should have an extra piece. That was a few years ago so might not apply now.

Bill

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I have built one. I've attached a couple of photos, but they are of the completes model. Not sure if they will help. IIRC from when I had shop 2 there wass an error with the frame etch for which you should have an extra piece. That was a few years ago so might not apply now.

Bill

Thanks Bill only problem is that it appears to be a different etch to yours mine is a replacement chassis etch (2-384) for the Peco 10' RCH Tank Wagon unfortunately the photo on the 2mm FS web just shows the etch! 

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Hi Ian,

I started one of these many years ago, but never got round to finishing the body.

I remember making a few small alterations:

  • Having decided to build it with DSI brake gear, I thought the inner V hangers (part of the main fold-up unit) were too close to the outer ones. I cut them off and added separate ones (spare from another etch) to the inside of the solebar. (If you're building it with Morton brakes you might want to cut these inner Vs off anyway).
  • I also filed a bit off the main floor near the coupler mounting plates that I thought shouldn't be there.
  • Finally, I soldered some short lengths of T-section brass to the buffer beams to line up with the end stanchions.

 

I hope the photos below help to explain how it goes together.

Nick.

 

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Am I right in thinking (as one with FoD modelling aspirations) that the Berry Wiggins tanks were a special for the N gauge Society in 2002, as Googling them seems to suggest, and that they were only in silver and not the black that the BW prototype tanks mostly appeared to be? I know they're not the correct pattern either, but I'd be prepared to put up with that. 

 

Also, I believe there were old POWsides transfers for Berry Wiggins in 4mm but haven't been able to find any in 2mm...

 

Regards,

 

Chris

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Now I am back from holiday, I attach this photo to clarify my original post.

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The original etch is on the left. Note that there are 4 rectangular pieces of metal over the wheels, which can also be seen on Nick's model.These are, I believe, an error in the etch. On the right is a corrected etch for the underframe only, with said pieces of metal removed. Sadly, it is not just a case of cutting them away, as if you look closely you will see that there is some metal on the corrected etch that is not there on the original.

When I was shop 2 shopkeeper I was supposed to send both the full etch and the corrected underframe with every order. If you don't have it, it might be worth contacting the current shopkeeper to see what the situation is now.

Having seen Nick's model, I have now noticed a glaring error in mine. :senile:

Bill

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Now I am back from holiday, I attach this photo to clarify my original post.

attachicon.gif20180904_072920.jpg

The original etch is on the left. Note that there are 4 rectangular pieces of metal over the wheels, which can also be seen on Nick's model.These are, I believe, an error in the etch. On the right is a corrected etch for the underframe only, with said pieces of metal removed. Sadly, it is not just a case of cutting them away, as if you look closely you will see that there is some metal on the corrected etch that is not there on the original.

When I was shop 2 shopkeeper I was supposed to send both the full etch and the corrected underframe with every order. If you don't have it, it might be worth contacting the current shopkeeper to see what the situation is now.

Having seen Nick's model, I have now noticed a glaring error in mine. :senile:

Bill

 

It's been many years since I designed this, but...

 

I think the extra undeframe is not a correction, but an alternative. Some tank wagons have plating over the wheel area, some not. Check photos of your prototype to see which is appropriate.

 

The version without those plated areas is a pretty fragile beast. Not a lot holds the solebasrs to the frame and they need strengthening with solder.

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
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