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New AEC GW railcar in 00


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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

Which begs the question as to whether/how long the built-in tail lamps would have remained functional thereafter....

 

Surely, there would have been no need to maintain in working order equipment for which there was no longer any operational requirement. 

 

Or was the imposition of a normal tail lamp additional to the pre-existing arrangement?

 

John

That's a good question John.  By the time of the 1940 build there was no need for the red light at all but whether the works carried on in their own way using new wiring drawings based on the earlier ones is another question.

 

3 hours ago, Neal Ball said:


You have an encyclopaedic knowledge Mike aka @The Stationmaster, did you ever finish that book? I seem to recall it was about signalling, but your knowledge clearly extends to the GWR daily workings as well.

 

Perhaps part 1 should be signalling and part 2 the daily operation.

The 'knowledge ' is down to several things - first my day-to-day working life over a large part of three decades which not only involved learning but as importantly taught me how the various source documents inter-acted with each other and the importance of amendments and alterations to that material plus knowing how to interpret stuff; secondly a life long interest in the subject from long before my working years and which has continued after them; and thirdly gradually building a library of original source material to which I am adding whenever I get the chance (and, when necessary, have the money to do so); and lastly trying not to rely on memory but checking stuff against original documents before I post anything, particularly dates.

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  • RMweb Gold
On 24/08/2021 at 10:35, amdaley said:

Have you tried the railcar on DC & if you did, did you have the same jerky running? 

Tony. 

well i stripped the loco down last night, could not see any reason for the lurching movement, put it back together and seems to run better so go figure (broken a pickup wire from the boggie to the pcb in the process so had to fashion a new wire).

change of topic  slightly. now having ran it along side the Dapol railcar i have to say the Heljan is a better model

1: more refined in the detail such as wipers, handles, mouldings

2: whether its accurate or not but i prefer the colours on the Heljan model, they look sharper, less drab
3: better lighting (although its a fav with having to switch lights on/off when you change direction)
4: better interior and cab, although for the money the cab should be painted and picked out
5: against is the decoder choice, stick another £25 on the buying price to get the right decoder rather than using a 21 pin out of the bit draw.

 

overall it looks a better model, finish, colour, detail, lighting than the Dapol one (i know they are different loco's)

Now would i pay £160 for it, NO. I paid £110 from hattons for a pre-owned and for me that sits just right. I'm a happy bunny with my purchase.

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  • RMweb Gold

mystery deepens, i have just by chance determined that if i press 0 on my prodigy express to turn on the directional lights the loco drops in speed to a fast crawl and lurches a little, reset the system and it runs fine again. Its only the directional lighting that causes this, all other lighting functions are fine. i wonder if this is some feature of the decoder where by you press a button it and drops into a predefined running profile?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold
16 hours ago, jonnyuk said:

i've not been able to suss the above, anybody else has similar issues?


Ive not had that issue no, are you using an ESU?
I always struggle to get anything above F9 on my Prodigy, it just doesn’t like the shift key. Plus of course it only goes to F19 - so I’m struggling to get any lights to work.

 

I remain not impressed that Heljan have specified using only an ESU decoder. 

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  • RMweb Gold
7 hours ago, Neal Ball said:


Ive not had that issue no, are you using an ESU?
I always struggle to get anything above F9 on my Prodigy, it just doesn’t like the shift key. Plus of course it only goes to F19 - so I’m struggling to get any lights to work.

 

I remain not impressed that Heljan have specified using only an ESU decoder. 

yep i'm using the recommended decoder, everything works but when i put directional lighting on the speed drops to a crawl which is why i suspect its a decoder configuration. 

I agree with your comment about Heljan forcing you to use 1 decoder, unless your a whiz with re-programming, how many of us can do that.

i've worked in IT for 25 years and very IT literate (also a developer), could i get to grips with re-programming, not a chance!

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37 minutes ago, jonnyuk said:

yep i'm using the recommended decoder, everything works but when i put directional lighting on the speed drops to a crawl which is why i suspect its a decoder configuration. 

I agree with your comment about Heljan forcing you to use 1 decoder, unless your a whiz with re-programming, how many of us can do that.

i've worked in IT for 25 years and very IT literate (also a developer), could i get to grips with re-programming, not a chance!

 

I used my Lokprogrammer, which has interface which does not require an understanding of all the cvs and that made it a bit easier to get the lights working how I wanted. I did end up resetting it to defaults, which allocated 3 to a "crawl" speed setting, and 4 to something else which I cant remember. I haven't had the speed issue mentioned above, so just speculating that the directional lighting issue  somehow is linked to the crawl feature on some decoders.

 

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  • RMweb Gold
9 minutes ago, stephennicholson said:

 

I used my Lokprogrammer, which has interface which does not require an understanding of all the cvs and that made it a bit easier to get the lights working how I wanted. I did end up resetting it to defaults, which allocated 3 to a "crawl" speed setting, and 4 to something else which I cant remember. I haven't had the speed issue mentioned above, so just speculating that the directional lighting issue  somehow is linked to the crawl feature on some decoders.

 

thank you, this confirms my theory as well..i'll keep digging

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Got one of these through the post today.

Came with a broken bogie pivot straight out of the box :(

Already on its way back to Hattons.

 

This is the second time I have seen this problem with these railcars.

Hattons had one for sale last week which had the same problem described in the details.

Hope its not an issue with them ?

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16 minutes ago, amdaley said:

Got one of these through the post today.

Came with a broken bogie pivot straight out of the box :(

Already on its way back to Hattons.

 

This is the second time I have seen this problem with these railcars.

Hattons had one for sale last week which had the same problem described in the details.

Hope its not an issue with them ?

Sounds like the box insert may not be supporting/protecting the model in transit as well as it should.

 

I think there have been previous instances of that, Hornby Peckett B2?

 

John

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  • RMweb Gold
16 hours ago, jonnyuk said:

yep i'm using the recommended decoder, everything works but when i put directional lighting on the speed drops to a crawl which is why i suspect its a decoder configuration. 

I agree with your comment about Heljan forcing you to use 1 decoder, unless your a whiz with re-programming, how many of us can do that.

i've worked in IT for 25 years and very IT literate (also a developer), could i get to grips with re-programming, not a chance!


Have you tried a factory reset? Cv8 value 8

 

It could be a conflict with the decoder that resetting might resolve.

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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, Neal Ball said:


Have you tried a factory reset? Cv8 value 8

 

It could be a conflict with the decoder that resetting might resolve.

to be honest i've not tried it, its the most obvious thing to try...

 

15 hours ago, amdaley said:

Got one of these through the post today.

Came with a broken bogie pivot straight out of the box :(

Already on its way back to Hattons.

 

This is the second time I have seen this problem with these railcars.

Hattons had one for sale last week which had the same problem described in the details.

Hope its not an issue with them ?

i bought mine from hattons i as a pre-owned with a similar issue. the pivot was not broken on mine as the screw through the chassis to the bogie was still in tact, my issue was the plastic bracket that encases the top of the boggie and reduces the slop. if you take it apart though you can see how it works very easily, a little bit of super clue and its good as new, saved my self £50 doing this.

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  • RMweb Gold

I bought mine from a proper face-to-face retailer and it was (fully satisfactorily)  test run by him in my presence before I left the shop.  I fully appreciate that not everybody can do that (and the shop is an hour's drive away from me so every time I go there I spend two hours travelling) but it does show the value of visiting a retailer if you can.  And Paul at Alton Model Centre is one of the best especially when it comes to testing models before he hands them over to the customer.

 

Overall it is a very good representation of the later type of GWR railcar and I think the green livery (with white roof ends in the one I purchased) is well executed and mine ran well straight out of the display cabinet.

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4 hours ago, jonnyuk said:

to be honest i've not tried it, its the most obvious thing to try...

 

i bought mine from hattons i as a pre-owned with a similar issue. the pivot was not broken on mine as the screw through the chassis to the bogie was still in tact, my issue was the plastic bracket that encases the top of the boggie and reduces the slop. if you take it apart though you can see how it works very easily, a little bit of super clue and its good as new, saved my self £50 doing this.

 

I saw what the problem was straight away when I took mine out of the box.

Being a brand new loco bought at full price I wasn't willing to take it apart to try to fix it.

With mine the problem was the little spigot into which the screw goes was broken off level with the top the the bogie tower. The little plastic spigot was still attached to the screw.

Was this the same problem you had ?

As a matter of interest & for future reference what end did your model have the problem ?

Mine was the end with the decoder socket fitted.

 

2 hours ago, The Stationmaster said:

I bought mine from a proper face-to-face retailer and it was (fully satisfactorily)  test run by him in my presence before I left the shop.  I fully appreciate that not everybody can do that (and the shop is an hour's drive away from me so every time I go there I spend two hours travelling) but it does show the value of visiting a retailer if you can.  And Paul at Alton Model Centre is one of the best especially when it comes to testing models before he hands them over to the customer.

 

Overall it is a very good representation of the later type of GWR railcar and I think the green livery (with white roof ends in the one I purchased) is well executed and mine ran well straight out of the display cabinet.

 

The Hattons rep entered a note on my file that the replacement model is to be tested before its sent out to me.

Of course that's no guarantee that it won't get damaged during transport.

Unfortunately living in Ireland I have no choice but to buy from overseas.

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  • RMweb Gold

A question for those of you who have purchased an AECRailcar. It’s one that has niggled at me every time I view one online,especially the Rails example .It it does grate on my sensibilities I must admit.To me,the glazing does not look right,giving a prismatic effect at its edges. No axe to grind here and I am no nit picker,I assure you. Your comments and observations will be gratefully received.

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  • RMweb Gold
On 11/09/2021 at 13:33, Ian Hargrave said:

A question for those of you who have purchased an AECRailcar. It’s one that has niggled at me every time I view one online,especially the Rails example .It it does grate on my sensibilities I must admit.To me,the glazing does not look right,giving a prismatic effect at its edges. No axe to grind here and I am no nit picker,I assure you. Your comments and observations will be gratefully received.

There is some but it depends a bit on viewing angle and ambient lighting.  Overall i don't think it detracts too much but it might look different with paler body colour,  An answer might be to try some Dullcote to reduce the reflectivoty of the windows but i wouldn't know if that is safe to use on the Heljan plastic/paint job - does anyone?

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  • RMweb Gold
On 10/09/2021 at 13:31, amdaley said:

 

I saw what the problem was straight away when I took mine out of the box.

Being a brand new loco bought at full price I wasn't willing to take it apart to try to fix it.

With mine the problem was the little spigot into which the screw goes was broken off level with the top the the bogie tower. The little plastic spigot was still attached to the screw.

Was this the same problem you had ?

As a matter of interest & for future reference what end did your model have the problem ?

Mine was the end with the decoder socket fitted.

 

 

The Hattons rep entered a note on my file that the replacement model is to be tested before its sent out to me.

Of course that's no guarantee that it won't get damaged during transport.

Unfortunately living in Ireland I have no choice but to buy from overseas.

my was damaged decoder end as well. before purchase i did ask for more detailed pictures and also a test run which Hattons did for me, thats great custome service. to secure the purchase i used the trunk service (i asked before i purchased if i can cancel trunk items and they said yes).

if it was a new purchase i would send it back, it was only because it was bought with a known issue that took it to bits and do a repair.

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30 minutes ago, jonnyuk said:

my was damaged decoder end as well. before purchase i did ask for more detailed pictures and also a test run which Hattons did for me, thats great custome service. to secure the purchase i used the trunk service (i asked before i purchased if i can cancel trunk items and they said yes).

if it was a new purchase i would send it back, it was only because it was bought with a known issue that took it to bits and do a repair.

I just wonder if the weight of the electronics at that end is too much for the bogie connection. 

Hopefully it's just bad luck & my replacement will be fine. 

After the Bayer Garratt disaster I am suspicious of anything Heljan

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On 11/09/2021 at 07:33, Ian Hargrave said:

A question for those of you who have purchased an AECRailcar. It’s one that has niggled at me every time I view one online,especially the Rails example .It it does grate on my sensibilities I must admit.To me,the glazing does not look right,giving a prismatic effect at its edges. No axe to grind here and I am no nit picker,I assure you. Your comments and observations will be gratefully received.

I can't answer for if the glazing is good or not, but here is what the Railcar looks like under a low sun on an iPhone. I think it looks alright in my opinion.

image.png

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  • 2 weeks later...

A short running session featuring the all new Great Western Railway AEC Diesel Railcar from Heljan edited with real sound. 
Sounds are provided by a number of similar locomotives from my sound collection, captured at various Gala and Preserved Railways over the past few years.
Here we see GWR AEC Diesel Railcar, No.29 in action on a local branchline commuter service.
Hope you enjoy!

 

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I'm still waiting for my replacement Railcar from Hattons but in fairness to Hattons its not their fault as they sent it last Friday.

The problem is the crap postal service An Post that we have in this country.

They're having problems with Customs declarations sent by postal services outside of Ireland.

Instead of contacting the sellers or recipients as per the rules that are simply sending the mail back to where it came from  :rolleyes:

 

All I'm getting for a couple of registered signed for packages from the UK on the An Post site is

" 22 September 2021 17:09

We have your post in DUBLIN MAIL CENTRE, DUBLIN 12"

 

They've had it since last week with the same message repeated every day.

If they have it why don't they deliver it to me :angry:

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  • RMweb Gold
12 hours ago, amdaley said:

I'm still waiting for my replacement Railcar from Hattons but in fairness to Hattons its not their fault as they sent it last Friday.

The problem is the crap postal service An Post that we have in this country.

They're having problems with Customs declarations sent by postal services outside of Ireland.

Instead of contacting the sellers or recipients as per the rules that are simply sending the mail back to where it came from  :rolleyes:

 

All I'm getting for a couple of registered signed for packages from the UK on the An Post site is

" 22 September 2021 17:09

We have your post in DUBLIN MAIL CENTRE, DUBLIN 12"

 

They've had it since last week with the same message repeated every day.

If they have it why don't they deliver it to me :angry:


We have the same here in Spain - all thanks to Brexit.

 

Generally anything sent by Royal Mail / Correos gets stuck in Madrid for weeks.

 

Im having to use DHL or UPS for parcels from the UK as they have sufficient staff at the airports clearing parcels.

 

Good luck. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

CV issues.

Has anyone had issues where the interior lights and Red rear light won’t come on? If so, which CV do I need to change to get them to work please.

 

The (sound) decoder is a Loksound 5.

 

The full issues are:

F0 should see front white lights on and Red rear light on. The front lights come on, but not the red.

F19 Cab lights on/off - nothing happens

F20 Interior lights on/off - nothing happens

F23 Rear Red light off - nothing happens

F24 top headlight on and lower ones go off - nothing happens

F25 Red parking lights on at both ends - nothing happens

F26 All front lights illuminated - won’t switch the top white light on.

 

All other functions work as they should.

 

Given I live in Spain, I’m trying to avoid sending the decoder back to the supplier - we have huge postal issues at the moment with anything coming from the UK.

 

Any suggestions would be very welcome. Sadly the decoder doesn’t come with a CV list which might have made it a bit easier.

 

All the lights work on DC.

 

Thanks, Neal.

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  • RMweb Gold
16 hours ago, Neal Ball said:

CV issues.

Has anyone had issues where the interior lights and Red rear light won’t come on? If so, which CV do I need to change to get them to work please.

 

The (sound) decoder is a Loksound 5.

 

The full issues are:

F0 should see front white lights on and Red rear light on. The front lights come on, but not the red.

F19 Cab lights on/off - nothing happens

F20 Interior lights on/off - nothing happens

F23 Rear Red light off - nothing happens

F24 top headlight on and lower ones go off - nothing happens

F25 Red parking lights on at both ends - nothing happens

F26 All front lights illuminated - won’t switch the top white light on.

 

All other functions work as they should.

 

Given I live in Spain, I’m trying to avoid sending the decoder back to the supplier - we have huge postal issues at the moment with anything coming from the UK.

 

Any suggestions would be very welcome. Sadly the decoder doesn’t come with a CV list which might have made it a bit easier.

 

All the lights work on DC.

 

Thanks, Neal.

One think you needn't worry about is the red rear lights illuminating - if you look art my earlier post you will see they were basically redundant in everyday working and all you need is an ordinary tail lamp (and the faff of changing ends with it alas).  The tail lamp was only required to be lit at night or in certain bad weather conditions on the Henley branch and it was definitely used as I shall now relate.  

 

I returned one dark evening with my parents from wherever (probably off the c.9.30 Paddington - Swansea which was first stop Twyford and 'Castle' hauled) and on our arrival at Twyford there was the diesel car sitting in the branch bay.  But all of us intending passengers were told the car was going nowhere because somebody had forgotten to put on the tail lamp before it left Henley and that wasn't discovered until it left Shiplake so it had run all the way to Twyford without a tail lamp.  It was now waiting at Twyford for someone to arrive from Henley on their push bike with the tail lamp.   The car was the only thing on the branch capable of moving under its own power and there was no risk of it dividing although i suppose it could conceivably have failed somewhere in the countryside but Rules were Rules and it could not go without a tail lamp.   Obviously there wasn't a spare lamp at Twyford (they were kept at Henley) and - from what I now know - the spare lamp that should have been carried on the car obviously wasn't there either.   So arrival of the cyclist was duly awaited - and the road does tend to go up hill and down dale for a good part of the distance.

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