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mike hughes
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I've added some of the end steps and pipes to the coaches, the water pipes are held in by a squeezed up split pin round a piece of wire as in the poor picture.

The water tanks on the roofs are rolled 60th plastic and the rainstrips are plastic strip and these are glued on with canopy glue.

 

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Michael

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  • 3 weeks later...

Next stage in the coach build was adding the primer. I used an automotive 2-part etch primer brought as think 1L each part for roughly same price as the Precision 2-part etch primer. Then to show up any areas that needed attention sprayed on Halfords primer.

I've done the moulding and casting of the first of the LNER vans as well.post-1675-0-54296000-1542909529_thumb.jpgpost-1675-0-60552500-1542909448_thumb.jpgpost-1675-0-90296700-1542909458_thumb.jpgpost-1675-0-34811100-1542909557_thumb.jpgpost-1675-0-40636500-1542909564_thumb.jpg

 

Michael

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I like your rendition of the Bulleid coach.  I am modifying a Bachmann TSO, reglazed with SE glazing, and with MJT P4 bogies plus various detailing modifications as running on the  ECML in the sixties.

 

Would the top steps be removed for the ECML?

 

Michael

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I've now finished painting the coaches after masking the yellow, spayed green then masked up and sprayed black. You can see painted and added seats, numbered and glazed as well, been bit busy for updates recently.

I was also asked to finish off some part built LMS cattle vans, just really added the etch parts and the brass wire and then as they were piped painted bauxite.

 

Michael

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Next stage was to bend up into a U shape was the body. This shows the former I use for forming the tumble home (didn’t work as well as planned when had it made years ago as still have to put bit more curve into it but helps a long way) Then started on the underframe by laminating the solebars together, the holes where the buffers go will be filled in on the inner ends and the added the solebars using a ruler to help keep them straight post-1675-0-41095000-1545155314_thumb.jpegpost-1675-0-85535700-1545155344_thumb.jpeg

 

Michael

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Slight catch up with what I've been doing over the Christmas interlude.

I brought a while back a Westdale parcel 114 which was painted but was missing things like the roller shutters and had no underframe details. I decided to either do it the blue or blue/grey livery. It had the cast ends and dome but felt the end was bit to flat and the dome didn't look right, so decided to fit my own ones. For the underframe cut a bit of plastic and stuck my own castings on. It may take a little while to do the rest as this is a lower priority.

Next is a Haywood railway Hawksworth CK which I'm going to do as a DMU coach as they run with the 3-car 119 and believe as well 117. I'd already built most of the body and underframe so work has just adding the steps and end detail which wasn't in the kit.

I'd also been adding windows and hinges to my MK1 RBR and RMB and then adding the underframe (same process as the Hampshire unit) and the hinges and solebars/footboards to my 115 motor and 116 trailer coach (I'd originally designed this for class 115/125/127, totally forgot that the 116 had different window arrangement but this was a bit of cutting out one of the pillars and moving it)

Next just finished off a couple of ABS wagons, a LMS 5-plank and LNER steel open, all I've done recently is add the buufer heads, vac pipe and lamp irons. Just to add floor, not sure whether to do that before or after painting.

 

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Michael

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Edited by mike hughes
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I've been putting together some of the LNER vans that I cast and a SR 'Queen Mary' (ex LBSCR), didn't realise how much filling the vans would take, wont know for certain if got it all until paints applied. The Queen Mary, I joined the halves of the floor then added the outer ends, then the sides and inner ends and for all the wagons used plastic strip to form the bottom of the solebars.

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For the vans I was short of the W irons so I made them from plastic strip (same design as the parkside ones), I had enough spare springs and axleboxes. Then onto the brake gear which is 2 unfitted and 2 AVB. For the Queen Mary added the brake hangers and cylinders.

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Michael

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I’ve made good progress with the vans in getting the roofs on, adding buffer stocks, vac pipes. The roofs I used were Parkside. The end vents I made from plastic sheet. Then primed them. The van body is Slaters shocvan. It’s been lying around a while awaiting rain strip so done it whilst adding the other ones.

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Michael

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I've added some interior partitions and jumpers to the Hampshire and when I was looking up which livery it was going to be in discovered should of cut out a hole so the route indicator to be glazed. So had to carefully break out the driving ends and cut out. D'oh!! 

 

Michael

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A bit belated are my next photos, I've got a far as painting the yellow, then the green and I've painted the inside partitions (Humbrol 28)and sides (Humbrol 62) for all 3 cars. Next stage will be the roofs, need to get some shell vents and then lots of conduit and water pipes to add!! May take a while.

 

Michael

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I’ve added the detail to the 3 roofs at long last, once I’ve sprayed I can put on the body mask the green up to spray the underframe black (once I buy more). I’ve used ‘oo’ handrail knobs and 0.45mm wire for the conduit and made the lifting rings using rounded pliers. 

 

michael 

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On the Maunsell coaches, after done tumblehome, soldered on windows, window vents and drop lights. Next I soldered to floor. The reason there’s a gap in the sides is I’m using a resin casting to form the shaped bit as the brake end is narrower than the passenger part

 

Michael 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been doing other projects as well recently and will provide pics of the Hampshire and Maunsell coaches.

Meanwhile been converting some Slaters GW cattle wagons into the BR type (dia 1/352 & 1/353) following an article in a BRM. Made my own brakegear as the BR one is Morton 11'. Also quickly put together a SR Queen Mary from my own castings.

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I've started putting together a commissioned Slaters MR cattle wagon. For the bars in the side the instructions say about either drilling a hole for the wire to go through (done that before for one, never again as found that a nightmare) or with a saw making a slit in the rear of the side to allow the wire to sit in and then fill up, definitely found that easier despite cutting through on of the uprights. 

The other ones I've been working on are scratchbuilt SR 40t ballast hoppers. A lot of accurate marking required with using callipers to check after been cut out and to get the best fit with the angles used a small plane to give a chamfer. I'm doing one from each batch. 

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