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Made a bit of progress with the 120 second class seats.  Also done some painting and numbering on some wagons.  Amongst the wagons are the LNER 6 plank (LHS 4th down) and just to the right the 2 SR vans  

Michael

 

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On ‎21‎/‎06‎/‎2020 at 20:55, Hal Nail said:

That's timely as I was just contemplating the stripes on a shock open. How did you do them?

I used ones from Modelmaster shock vans, Clasp decals (shame they don't do these anymore) and also the stripes from HMRS sheet 26. Fox transfers do them (FRH 7945)

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Getting there with the 120. I've started a few other things. The vans are going to be LMS. One is D1663, another is D2097 and third I cant remember without looking. The 1663 I'd cut down the ends and where the vent was replaced it with corrugations. A bit of effort but think it'll be worth it

 

Michael

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On 05/08/2020 at 22:30, mike hughes said:

Getting there with the 120. I've started a few other things. The vans are going to be LMS. One is D1663, another is D2097 and third I cant remember without looking. The 1663 I'd cut down the ends and where the vent was replaced it with corrugations. A bit of effort but think it'll be worth it

 

Michael

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Is that a Trans Pennine version sneaking in on the end here

 

Paul R

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I've made a good start on making brakegear for the China clay (RCH 9'), Once done I'll do a mould for them in whitemetal. The brake shoes are spares form Slaters kits, just modified a bit, then the push rods are evergreen strip

 

Michael

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Finally achieving something (in between fence repair last week)

Believe cast the underframe boxes for the 124 and cut the roofs to length, mark and drill the vents next before adding the domes. 

added detail for the 1663 van, not to much more to add, same photo is the 9’ brakegear, next stage is primer and check if all good before mould making

Made a start on the drivers desk on the 104/110 ends and made a start on the buffer beams. Need to cut out and put together the other inner end where the toilet goes

 

Michael 

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2 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

Have you made those brake levers or were they spares? If made, how did you do the bends without snapping them?

I made them from evergreen strip. I have previously cut bits to length then filed them and joined them. This time for a couple of the shallow bends used a saw to allow it bend. 

 

Michael 

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While I was letting a few things harden, done a bit to the LNER 116 van and also spent couple of days on the ends for the 104 & 110. It’s not the buffer housings you see on the buffer beam but the buffers bolt onto these, guessing as the buffer beam is angled as the front. Later on they made an Oleo buffer which has an angled base and is much longer than normal. No one make these yet. For the Grill on the 104 I tried glueing Microstrip first of all then decided to take off and score the lines as the strip wasn’t fine enough

 

Michael

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One thing that I need to think about is on the 104 ends is as the buffers fit on the end of the housings that sit on the buffer beams, how will the nuts for the buffer heads do up from the rear? With no underframe gubbings I reckon a nut spinner will go on the rear (I’ve got an expo one but that’s 6” long). Buffers could be added after painting but if for some reason the head needs to come off........

 

Michael

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1 hour ago, mike hughes said:

One thing that I need to think about is on the 104 ends is as the buffers fit on the end of the housings that sit on the buffer beams, how will the nuts for the buffer heads do up from the rear? With no underframe gubbings I reckon a nut spinner will go on the rear (I’ve got an expo one but that’s 6” long). Buffers could be added after painting but if for some reason the head needs to come off........

 

Michael

 

 

I can't think of a reason for the buffer heads to come off? I have been building some of Paul Rolley's scrap wagon kits and have added buffers and draw gear after finishing the rest of the wagons (I prefer going it this way). I may well be mistaken, but I don't recall any pictures of 104's or 110's with oval buffers so the heads spinning wouldn't be an issues. I just set the travel of the buffer head with the brass nut and solder it to the shank so it can't move.

 

Looking forward to seeing the 104 progress, just need to finish my Easybuild 101 and various other things on the WB.

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22 hours ago, D6775 said:

I couldn’t think of any reason why I’d take off buffer head. Never seen a 104/110 with oval heads either. 

Michael 

22 hours ago, D6775 said:

 

I can't think of a reason for the buffer heads to come off? I have been building some of Paul Rolley's scrap wagon kits and have added buffers and draw gear after finishing the rest of the wagons (I prefer going it this way). I may well be mistaken, but I don't recall any pictures of 104's or 110's with oval buffers so the heads spinning wouldn't be an issues. I just set the travel of the buffer head with the brass nut and solder it to the shank so it can't move.

 

Looking forward to seeing the 104 progress, just need to finish my Easybuild 101 and various other things on the WB.

 

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Made progress to the other inner end and made start on the dome. Decided to modify one of the domes that I do, was a fair bit to cut off and no doubt more filler. Thought I show as well the original master for the 104 end that MTK done. Surprisingly the windows weren’t too far out

 

Michael  

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Done the casting of the 9’ brakegear for the China clay. Marked on the floor the centres of the axle guards and the centre line of the wagon. Glued the V hangers in place and discovered had marked the lines wrong. No chance of moving the axleguards. Doh. Will keep this one as my display. It’ll be better when in grey primer

 

Michael 

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Got the 104 ends in primer, now to see if anything needs altering on them. For the 110 end just need to add the destination blind box. Might try to form this with plastic rod. To bend it without it snapping I put glue on it to soften it up. For the done had a rethink and decided to use a casting of a 128 dome and alter that as the shape seems closer. Less filler!

Getting there with the T/P, interiors done, believe just a bit of work on the cabs still

 Michael 

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This is some superb and inspiring modelling Mike. I am quite in awe of your scratchbuilds and resin casts! 

 

May I ask what sort of tool you use to emboss rivets in the .010 plastikard you use for corner plates and strapping on wagons? That sure seems easier than trying to drill a zillion holes!

Amanda

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On 15/09/2020 at 14:09, WM183 said:

This is some superb and inspiring modelling Mike. I am quite in awe of your scratchbuilds and resin casts! 

 

May I ask what sort of tool you use to emboss rivets in the .010 plastikard you use for corner plates and strapping on wagons? That sure seems easier than trying to drill a zillion holes!

Amanda

Many thanks Amanda

For the vans I use a rivet tool and for the opens I drill lots of holes and put plastic rod through as detail is on the inside as well

 

Michael 

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