Jump to content
 


mike hughes
 Share

Recommended Posts

On 19/02/2021 at 17:54, woodyfox said:

Hi Michael, 

Do you supply W irons, brake gear and chassis suitable for the 27t iron ore tippler (unfitted) please? IIRC they are 10ft wb. 

 

Cheers

Yes can get hold of cast axleguards for them, which diagram Tippler is it as there was both 9’ and 10’ wb unfitted

 

Michael

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, mike hughes said:

Yes can get hold of cast axleguards for them, which diagram Tippler is it as there was both 9’ and 10’ wb unfitted

 

Michael

Hi Michael, 

The 10' wb please. 

Thank you. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 02/03/2021 at 19:34, woodyfox said:

Hi Michael, 

The 10' wb please. 

Thank you. 

Looking into it, there's 2 types of 10' unfitted brake gear. The 4 shoe type and the 8 shoe clasp brake (Minus the vacuum parts). I haven't done a lever for the 4 shoe part.

 

Michael

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, mike hughes said:

Looking into it, there's 2 types of 10' unfitted brake gear. The 4 shoe type and the 8 shoe clasp brake (Minus the vacuum parts). I haven't done a lever for the 4 shoe part.

 

Michael

Hi Michael, 

I believe it's the diag 1/183 type with 4 clasp unfitted. The ones i've seen have roller bearing boxes. I'm not sure if/when this conversion occurred. I'd rather have them in a mid-70's state. I'm assuming that they had grease boxes from new? 

Cheers

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

I've done a bit more to the other LNER vans, diagrams 20, 43 & 52 and also some of may have seen about the Salmon in the smaller Suppliers section. Basically the photo shows just after the limescale remover was washed off and before etch primer

 

MichaelIMG_3751.JPG.5a146b94f655c9b820ca59c4b008fd54.JPGIMG_3750.JPG.74da5ea0ba63844add2731d5d6ec7336.JPGIMG_3746.JPG.9ec1676bd333c4fa0c7bdc9f4c98755d.JPGIMG_3745.JPG.82c64db0e42a9b86fd29376350c9397d.JPG

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've virtually done all the other little bits for the 124 at last. I've added the domino headcode (Railtec as you would of IMG_3812.JPG.27c31b4ec95d5110e11b8db361795709.JPGIMG_3811.JPG.09a5cf6ce415b240bc35dcd0bad9a9bc.JPGexpected) and the handrail which i forgot about on the brake coach. I've also raised the motor bogie up a bit.

Michael

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been recently making up some of the underframe parts for the 105 etc. It don't look much for several hours work.

I've also a while back made some of the chain shackles for the Salmon. The shackle was a flat etch in which twisted the ends to 90 degree, squeezed down a split pin round 0.7mm wire and soldered the wire in place.

 

MichaelIMG_3822.JPG.8cdb8f4938fb8f63aa1e9635b8abe8c0.JPGIMG_3821.JPG.1ef9c786dceb4085182c675ff68f31de.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, pwr said:

Neat. Do you use a bow pen?

 

Paul R

Thanks

Its a Bob Moore lining pen, never used a bow pen, don't know too much about them.

The trick is getting the paint consistency right in the first place.

 

Michael 

Link to post
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, mike hughes said:

Thanks

Its a Bob Moore lining pen, never used a bow pen, don't know too much about them.

The trick is getting the paint consistency right in the first place.

 

Michael 

 

 

I too have one of those but I have never really managed to get on with it. I reverted to a bow pen when I lined my F5. I think its like any tool - you get what you pay for.  I really should have another go with the Bob Moore and as you say its down to the paint consistency which I never managed to get right!

 

Paul R

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, pwr said:

 

 

I too have one of those but I have never really managed to get on with it. I reverted to a bow pen when I lined my F5. I think its like any tool - you get what you pay for.  I really should have another go with the Bob Moore and as you say its down to the paint consistency which I never managed to get right!

 

Paul R

Found the paint should run off the stirring stick and as the instructions say thinning with lighter fluid helps. Found that if when do the lining it doesn't flow off the pen quite right, give up as it'll such a struggle to do the lining and wash the pen out and alter the paint consistency 

 

Michael

  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Think I’m there at last with the underframe boxes for the 105. Really surprised how long it took. A spray with grey primer then ready for the rubber. 

I’ve done the moulds and casting for the Derby lightweight DMU, which attached over the weekend before going back into work at night time. 

Also done the casting of the LNER dia 116. Very happy how the solebars came out, the extra thin strip of plastic must of certainly helped to allow the air out

 

Michael

 

 

E5790763-61CE-40FE-8E59-D8A629CF605C.jpeg.5fc4fd66c81ac7f5f50e5eb33f517d9d.jpeg

1FA211EF-BFAD-469F-AAD0-050A2FAFEF11.jpeg.01eea1a3228344143e0e92e607c1ce42.jpeg41E05ED7-A102-4BE2-90E0-18CCEBFCE980.jpeg.bb202b6022b8b44a7f4282442b379a0a.jpeg

 

Edited by mike hughes
Alter an image
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I’ve been back making underframe pieces. First pic is for the 304, second is for the Derby L/W, class 108 and the small battery box is for the MK1 GUV. Also done the mould and casting for the Class 110

 

Michael480CF6EC-DFD5-4478-8B61-D23248A144B0.jpeg.c8d65fcdae79f677d862f874d9080ac0.jpeg

77889C88-47F8-4A4D-8E1B-C45A6F6862F2.jpeg

E562C207-6243-4EF3-8889-824E22C6198F.jpeg

  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Done the inner ends for the 304, annoyingly for me is that not quite the same for the ER overhead EMU's but oh well.

Also done the underframe boxes for the Battery driving trailer for the 304. Brought some very fine mesh to make up the grills and used plastic glue to hold it in place. In the other photo I've finished off the domes for the 104 and 105, it's easier to remove if required the top marker lights than make a separate new dome.

Michael

IMG_4093.JPG

IMG_4094.JPG

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Got some paint on the Salmon. Also cast the DMU seats for the 105 and used strip to represent the legs for this one. Also painted the 105. Went to take the tape off the fronts and pulled off fair bit of paint off the fronts, so redone the yellow and touched up the green by hand. After putting the first coat of paint on the dome, realized that the top marker should of come off. D'oh

Michael

IMG_4169.JPG

IMG_4168.JPG

IMG_4154.JPG

  • Like 6
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I’ve recently put the numbers on the CCT’s. Also I’ve painted some containers (the 2 BM containers are ones I made the master for a long time back). I added the etched corner pieces to all and the U channel on the A container. 

I added the rest of the glazing to the 105 and the seats. The silver paint I used has to be more than 50 years (was my dads) old as the the contents are in fluid ounces

 

Michael

A4A53826-83F4-4E53-A706-CBF6F851BB07.jpeg

9038CC65-4CDF-43FA-99D5-DDD1B8A5B87F.jpeg

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...