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Improving a Triang-Hornby Mk1


Darius43
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  • RMweb Gold

Once a modeller....always a modeller! Nice to see you on here Darius....and some cracking work on them Mk1's. I'm upgrading a rake of Hornby Railroad Mk1's which is fun.....

Hello Bill,

 

Nice to see you on here too :)

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thank you for your contributions. I used to enjoy improving Tri-ang Hornby Mk1s by painting the interior, fitting flush glaze windows and passengers. I found them much easier to dismantle than the new coaches and I think the new coaches are so good that I risk spoiling them. I have just found this Mk1 coach. I painted the floor and the corridor Humbrol matt dark earth and put the Royal Wessex headboards on. I removed the original glazing but never got round to fitting flush glaze windows as Hornby fitted flush glaze windows themselves later on. Only two Mk1s from the Royal Wessex came down the Swanage Railway that I am modelling so it would have been a good project to superdetail them. Bachmann have recently produced some coach passengers which can go in these coaches.

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  • RMweb Gold

Just been investigating my parents attic and found my two triang bsks that I have now liberated. These were from around 1970 and were bought as "completely knocked down" (ckd) kits.

I must have repainted them in my youth but now will improve these as per this thread.

What's the best way to strip enamel paint from plastic coach sides?

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19 hours ago, ikcdab said:

Just been investigating my parents attic and found my two triang bsks that I have now liberated. These were from around 1970 and were bought as "completely knocked down" (ckd) kits.

I must have repainted them in my youth but now will improve these as per this thread.

What's the best way to strip enamel paint from plastic coach sides?

 

Sodium hydroxide solution, you can buy 'caustic soda' crystals intended for drain unblocking and make a solution, or buy oven cleaner, but its nasty stuff - add caustic to water not the other way around, and you need to be wearing gloves and safety glasses.

 

Jon

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  • RMweb Gold
On 16/02/2020 at 10:16, jonhall said:

 

Sodium hydroxide solution, you can buy 'caustic soda' crystals intended for drain unblocking and make a solution, or buy oven cleaner, but its nasty stuff - add caustic to water not the other way around, and you need to be wearing gloves and safety glasses.

 

Jon

I tried oven pride. It worked like a dream. Stripped off all my youthfuk leatning experiences. So my 50 year old coaches may ride again. 

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  • RMweb Gold
23 hours ago, ikcdab said:

I tried oven pride. It worked like a dream. Stripped off all my youthfuk leatning experiences. So my 50 year old coaches may ride again. 

Sorry to hijack but what was the process for this?

Was it a case of spraying it on the models, or did you mix up a solution in a bowl (in which case can you use a plastic bowl)?

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  • RMweb Gold
4 hours ago, Corbs said:

Sorry to hijack but what was the process for this?

Was it a case of spraying it on the models, or did you mix up a solution in a bowl (in which case can you use a plastic bowl)?

i just did what we do with the over racks.

I dismantled the coach and put the sides and roofs into a ziplock bag. Pour in some of the over pride cleaner, seal up the bag and leave it.

there wasnt much oven pride left in our bottle (someone had used it on the oven!) so i wasnt very hopeful. But within a couple of hours all of the paint had dissolved from the sides and roof. I did "massage" the components through the plastic, ie i rubbed the oven pride into the sides through the plastic. so i dont think that the oven pride even has to come into contact with the paint, maybe the fumes are sufficient when sealed up in the bag.

It is essential not to get it on your hands, the over pride kit comes with disposable gloves.

As i said, i worked like an absolute dream on the enamel paint i applied more than 40 years ago.

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  • RMweb Gold

An update. My refurb of the two bsks is going well. Sides repaired and I have lashed out on new Bachmann commonwealth bogies. Have installed new buffers. Got the airbrush working again.

I have a question on handrails. Am I right that these coaches, mk1 corridors, had interior handrails along the corridor? If so, I'll represernr this when I reglaze. Probably stick some wire behind the glazing.

As for transfers, lettering and lining,  HMRS pressfix or modelmaster waterside?

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Hi Ickdab,

 

Although not a Mk1 here is Pullman Car 85 that I lined out with HMRS pressfix lining transfers. I have to say they are quite tricky to see through the backing paper unless you have good light and I find a magnifying glass helps greatly also. You can see the line just fine after wetting the backing paper which is the moment you notice that it is not straight !

I have found that the transfers may be nudged slightly with the end of a fine steel rule to sort out minor misalignment but should it be out by quite a way then I scrub them off and start again which is not good.

The method I use is to place one end and press it down and slowly work along its length pressing it down every half inch or so keeping light tension to keep it straight. I then check with a magnifying glass to see that it is the correct place and once happy I wet down and in time remove the backing paper.

When cutting the transfer from the sheet make sure the cuts you make are with a new blade and that the cuts are straight and parallel, this helps with positioning.

 

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Gibbo.

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27 minutes ago, ikcdab said:

An update. My refurb of the two bsks is going well. Sides repaired and I have lashed out on new Bachmann commonwealth bogies. Have installed new buffers. Got the airbrush working again.

I have a question on handrails. Am I right that these coaches, mk1 corridors, had interior handrails along the corridor? If so, I'll represernr this when I reglaze. Probably stick some wire behind the glazing.

As for transfers, lettering and lining,  HMRS pressfix or modelmaster waterside?

Yes they had metal handrails along the corridor, just below the glazing bar level.

On my Triang based Mk.1's I moved the bogie pivots inboard approx 2mm at each end to match prototype dimensions; a bit of a pain to do but makes a worthwhile visual improvement I think. It can be done with the riveted bogies in place too. A rectangle around the pivot was cut out using a combination of Stanley Knife and razor saw and moved inboard before being trimmed and glued into place and reinforced with plasticard (NB ensure sufficient clearance if Scale wheels are used; also it makes inserting the screws which hold the chassis to the roof quite tight, presumably the reason Triang set the pivot point too close to the ends in the first place).20190908_110211.jpg.ff3a7061715b3523fc35166907dd5bdf.jpg

Transfers wise I usually go with HMRS Pressfix for lining and numbering but also find the Railtec numbering very good. (unfinished coach in pic has HMRS lining and Railtec pre-made numbers - an SK made from Triang parts but with Kitmaster windows and cast metal buffers and roof vents etc added - still needs completing).

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The BSO below is again Triang based, but with SEF Flushglaze fitted and HMRS lining and numbering.IMG_20180128_125630_1.jpg.996cca77f84c6d9c2ee615d48dfa580f.jpg

 

Enjoying this thread, the Triang coaches are extremely versatile and adaptable. 

 

Martyn.

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  • RMweb Gold
On 14/09/2018 at 07:35, Darius43 said:

Chiselled off paint demarcation lines (still learning how to do this). Primed and repainted coach sides with Phoenix maroon enamel. Repainted roof. Lining and number decals from Modelmaster. Snipped off old tension lock couplings and added new slimline ones. Replaced plastic wheels with new Hornby metal wheels. Re-glazed with acetate strips from an old report cover. Cleaned up and painted the interior.

 

Great fun!!! I have a few more to restore.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Hi Darius,  which modelmaster sheets did you use?

And how difficult was it to take off the paint demarcation lines? I'm still wondering whether to do that or not. 

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  • RMweb Gold
4 hours ago, ikcdab said:

Hi Darius,  which modelmaster sheets did you use?

And how difficult was it to take off the paint demarcation lines? I'm still wondering whether to do that or not. 

 

Hi ikcdab,

 

I used Model Master BR black/yellow lining sheets 4481 and 4482.  I have since started using Railtec 3043 BR Maroon coach lining decals which are very good.

 

I found the Tamiya chisel easy to use after a few minutes learning time - trick is to take things slow and not try to remove the raised line in one go.  You might find placing and sealing the lining decals harder with the demarcation lines in place and I think the coaches look better without them.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

 

Edited by Darius43
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  • RMweb Gold

I've rather got the bug for this at the moment.  I managed to pick up three more cks today at £4 each.

Question, they all have this surround around the second main window from the left on the compartment side. See photo

What is this meant to be?

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19 minutes ago, muddy water said:

Talking about CKs.

When cutting and shutting the sides to make other useful coaches, what do people do with the corridor side with all the small windows?

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Hi Muddy,

 

I tend to end up with a load of bits left over !

 

Gibbo.

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