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Burngullow Lane. - On the main line through Legend Land.


TrevorP1
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Hi

 

Thanks for the info.

I've now looked at the Wagon Works site & your link to Peterborough North & found the info most useful.

I have used Kadee's on fixed rakes of coaches with specific loco's hauling them but found that at exhibitions where there is any undulation caused by unlevel floors as well as the problem of differing heights of NEM couplers the stock can uncouple mainly at board joints or where inclines are encountered.

Although my track laying may be also a cause these couplings seem to be a great solution to the problem so I will probably give them a try....

 

Thanks again for the heads up....

 

Cheers Bill

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1 hour ago, treggyman said:

Hi

 

Thanks for the info.

I've now looked at the Wagon Works site & your link to Peterborough North & found the info most useful.

I have used Kadee's on fixed rakes of coaches with specific loco's hauling them but found that at exhibitions where there is any undulation caused by unlevel floors as well as the problem of differing heights of NEM couplers the stock can uncouple mainly at board joints or where inclines are encountered.

Although my track laying may be also a cause these couplings seem to be a great solution to the problem so I will probably give them a try....

 

Thanks again for the heads up....

 

Cheers Bill


Just to be clear, there is no automatic uncoupling facility but that is no problem for my use.

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Hi

 

Yes I realised that....

 

The website isn't specific but reading the posts on the Peterborough North thread make it quite clear.....

For fixed rakes they sound ideal....Indeed I've ordered some to try....

But for shunting definitely a NO NO....

 

Thanks however for the post to clarify....

 

Cheers Bill

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Just happened to be passing Burngullow this afternoon and took some pics, hope they are of interest.

 

Burngullow looking West.  Branch line sadly with rusty-topped rails.

1046672640_08-Sep-20Burngullowlookingwest.jpg.7ae89c7a29c2c0266f74f1c782a27b24.jpg

 

Burngullow looking East.

1755388359_08-Sep-20Burngullowlookingeast.jpg.232d0d3963d5956440e08e68689646f1.jpg

 

The dries.  These and the silo's still standing.

824012209_08-Sep-20BurngullowDries.jpg.432a6979ba18ce88c808c3952c2c5b8d.jpg

 

Bridge 288.

1725924435_08-Sep-20Bridge288.jpg.6f09695265b062cfe6a1b9b0a0ec6b5e.jpg

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9 hours ago, Chamby said:

Just happened to be passing Burngullow this afternoon and took some pics, hope they are of interest.

 

Burngullow looking West.  Branch line sadly with rusty-topped rails.

 

 

Thanks for those Phil. I understand the Treviscoe plant  is now mothballed.

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An especially good day today for two reasons.

 

Firstly a trip to the eye doctor confirmed that my treatment for a wet macular problem involving injections into the eye (sounds much worse than it is) has been successful and remaining so. Very clever folk these eye specialists.
 

Secondly, another batch of Hunt ‘Elite’ couplings has arrived, so a few points on the latter.

 

As well as the previously used ‘close’ type  this batch included a pack of the ‘clip type’ for some older stock, a few ‘ultra close’ for use on my milk tanks and stepped ones for some of the Bachmann coaches.

 

With the latter I learned that the dot on the coupler is intended to be upwards, not down as I had done - this does not matter unless you need the stepped ones of course.  
 

Occasionally a few strokes of a needle file are needed to remove flash and so on but no matter, we are modellers after all. The watchword here is patience. 
 

The only place I cannot use them is on Hornby Collett stock as the coupling pocket is very close to the bogie and is fouled by the tails on the coupling. No matter for me as I can use the James bars here. 
 

Another useful place is shown in the photo. As a reminder of a Scottish holiday back in 1989 a Scotrail 37 is seen at Burngullow now and again. The Hunt coupling is fitted as intended and sits nicely between the two outer halves of the snowplough. The plough is the Heljan class 47 version mounted to the body. There is still room for all of the pipe work - mine are wire for strength - but not a screw coupling. This arrangement manages the 30” radius curves in the fiddle yard. 

 

RESULT I’d say. A celebration pint of Cambrian Gold from Stonehouse Brewery in Oswestry is in order tonight!

 

63762727-1343-4BF3-B09D-F306B6E2F165.jpeg.cf79a6bd26463bd7ca2188eb74c8f0d5.jpeg

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Lots of roundtuit jobs done lately all useful but little visible progress on the railway. Things that I can remember(!) include making cassettes, static grassing, finally getting two more Siphons on the move, retrieving the last Grange from the cripple siding and making it work, plus fitting a 'Brassmasters Modified Hall modifying kit'.

 

The kit involves fitting a number of etched brass components in the area of the front footplating to make it more like the real thing. I'd already been through the chassis mod when I used a donor  under my County but I confess to being relieved when the butchery of the front footplating was complete and the Brassmasters parts fitted!

 

The kit is well thought out and braver souls that I can take it further. However, I decided to I quit while I was ahead...

 

When finally refitting the body it first appeared as though it were riding high at the front. Amid my curses at the thought of dismantling and filing more off ( I HATE doing jobs twice) I checked the running plate for level - it was. Investigation revealed the cylinders were too low, easily solved with a couple of packing washers. (I must check to see if the County has the same problem.) Cruel close up below.

 

The front coupling has since been fitted. Although the kit provides scale examples, I kept the overscale lamp brackets as I feared butchering the smokebox door. More conscientious folk will also deal with the moulded smokebox door handle but even with more 'lockdown' approaching I can find other more pressing jobs!

 

4BFC6708-14DD-49F3-95B2-7F6043CEF78E_1_201_a.jpeg.7b6112500fef41ea0639398ea7763f54.jpeg

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Progress continues on roundtuit work. All of the various Siphons I've picked up on EBay have been made mobile with decent bogies and Hunt couplings. Lots of paintwork jobs needing the outdoor use of rattle cans have also been done before winter makes such things impossible.

 

I've also been working on the cassette system as shown in the photos below. The wood for the cassettes was purchased at the same time as that for the rest of the railway. They are long enough to comfortably hold four coaches held in place by blocks of foam - Kernow MRC packaging material! Originally I cut ply ends but the foam is much more secure. The trolley might seem a bit of an extravagance but it cost about the same as 2 Bachmann Mk1s and helps provide safe, convenient storage for an alarming* number of coaches and wagons. The whole lot normally lives under the layout.

 

*I say alarming because I've just had to work out the insurance valuation and I scared myself!

 

IMG_6691.jpeg.a83ca97c8143eebebe6d928b32329f58.jpeg

 

 

IMG_6693.jpeg.920707c908de883cb11fb5c0f7def916.jpeg

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Before I look at point rodding, telegraph poles, signals and other vulnerable things for me to destroy, I've begun to consider more work the scenic side of the layout. At the moment, I'm thinking more about things on the far side of the running line but my thoughts did turn to the farm track in front of the main embankment. This lead to the fact that the small bridge needs to be finished before I put a road over it and thus the steam ought to be done, plus the vegetation around it...

 

The stream is my little nod to the famous white river and so how to do this? I've never done a normal river, let alone a white one. For better or worse I've used Woodland scenics Realistic Water. It doesn't simulate 'flow' but I'm telling myself this is a choked up tributary. After studying a Peter Gray photo I coloured the Realistic Water with Tamiya acrylics - 4 parts white, 2 parts deck tan and 1 part German grey. 

 

Apparently the 'water' is vulnerable to attracting dust and debris so I've used scraps of Noch grass mat nearby and will mask it off well when I finish the other areas. Denser foliage is Woodland Scenics ground foams plus bag of something whose origin I have no idea!

 

The banks of the stream still need tidying and of course, as is the way of things, the road still hasn't been done...

 IMG_6694.jpeg.671fd4e2820a103de55a8c3d77390c43.jpeg

 

I had a news email from WWS this week about their new 'scratch aid' buildings. Some of these are very close to the little terrace behind the weigh bridge hut, right down to the size I 'guesstimated' for my placeholder. A couple of mods and they look just the job to save a lot of tedious cutting. An order will be off to them soon.

 

WWS scratch aid buildings. 

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8 hours ago, Rhysb said:

Trevor,

 

Im on my 3rd Jack Russell so know your pain. Takes time but we are left with great memories.

 

 

Bridget was my second, totally different in character to the first but both rewarding to have in my life. To some people they have a bad reputation but if you put the effort in and give them the support they need, they are wonderful loyal, characterful and friendly dogs. Both of them melted many hearts.

 

8 hours ago, Rhysb said:

 

The layout is starting to look very "cornwall!" well done

 

 

I take that as supreme compliment. Thank you.

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A little while back I think I suggested I was going to try a WWS half relief cottage for the terrace on the up side of the line. The other day I happened to be looking at the Petite Properties website and noticed this half relief kit. It looked even more ideal and it duly arrived on the doormat.

 

Although the roof needed modifying from hipped to gable it certainly was an ideal starting point, being almost the exact size I'd guesstimated. It sits on a base to which will be added the front porches and flower (or weed!) beds. Next job is to make said porches which I think is going to take much longer than the rest of the building put together!

 

Although the means to make the chimneys and pots are in the kit, I'm going to delve into the scrap box for the chimneys themselves and I've ordered some pots and guttering from Modelu.

 

IMG_6798.jpeg.b6488c15ea2295f1f987c534d1a4561f.jpeg

 

IMG_6827.jpeg.3828b2b1b3f54efacda7fc13eae1db8e.jpeg

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4 hours ago, TrevorP1 said:

 

A little while back I think I suggested I was going to try a WWS half relief cottage for the terrace on the up side of the line. The other day I happened to be looking at the Petite Properties website and noticed this half relief kit. It looked even more ideal and it duly arrived on the doormat.

 

Although the roof needed modifying from hipped to gable it certainly was an ideal starting point, being almost the exact size I'd guesstimated. It sits on a base to which will be added the front porches and flower (or weed!) beds. Next job is to make said porches which I think is going to take much longer than the rest of the building put together!

 

Although the means to make the chimneys and pots are in the kit, I'm going to delve into the scrap box for the chimneys themselves and I've ordered some pots and guttering from Modelu.

 

IMG_6798.jpeg.b6488c15ea2295f1f987c534d1a4561f.jpeg

 

IMG_6827.jpeg.3828b2b1b3f54efacda7fc13eae1db8e.jpeg

 

All you need now is some manky mundic blockwork and they be a proper job.

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6 hours ago, TrevorP1 said:

 

A little while back I think I suggested I was going to try a WWS half relief cottage for the terrace on the up side of the line. The other day I happened to be looking at the Petite Properties website and noticed this half relief kit. It looked even more ideal and it duly arrived on the doormat.

 

Although the roof needed modifying from hipped to gable it certainly was an ideal starting point, being almost the exact size I'd guesstimated. It sits on a base to which will be added the front porches and flower (or weed!) beds. Next job is to make said porches which I think is going to take much longer than the rest of the building put together!

 

Although the means to make the chimneys and pots are in the kit, I'm going to delve into the scrap box for the chimneys themselves and I've ordered some pots and guttering from Modelu.

 

IMG_6798.jpeg.b6488c15ea2295f1f987c534d1a4561f.jpeg

 

IMG_6827.jpeg.3828b2b1b3f54efacda7fc13eae1db8e.jpeg

That looks rather nice, Trevor. Another one (or two) might appear in"our" part of mid-Cornwall.

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A bit more work on the cottages. Porches. lintels and so on. Not identical to the ones at Burngullow but my version is not a replica of the real place.

 

I’ll leave it for now until the gutters and chimneys arrive from Modelu (they are on ‘back order’). I already have some York Modelmaking slates which I will use. As to replicating the grotty rendering, I’m still scratching my head!

 

Thoughts are stirring about how to make a start on the linhay....

 

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8 hours ago, TrevorP1 said:

As to replicating the grotty rendering, I’m still scratching my head!

How about wet-and-dry paper, with a thinnish wash of rendering colour so that some of the underlying grey shows through?

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44 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

How about wet-and-dry paper, with a thinnish wash of rendering colour so that some of the underlying grey shows through?


I was hoping to find something that I could paint on, maybe paint with talc dusted on...  Tamiya do some very fine texture paint I think, although it’s not cheap. Whatever, it needs to be very fine. I’ve wondered about grey aerosol sprayed from a distance so that  it’s like a semi-dry dust when it ‘lands’... A bit like the lump of old chipboard I put things on to spray.

 

In the old photos I’ve seen the porches seem to have rendering that is coming off. I’ve made them from Wills sheets, so I need to be able to do that. The lintels are also just visible through the rendering.

 

Experimentation called for I think. 

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9 hours ago, TrevorP1 said:


I was hoping to find something that I could paint on, maybe paint with talc dusted on...  Tamiya do some very fine texture paint I think, although it’s not cheap. Whatever, it needs to be very fine. I’ve wondered about grey aerosol sprayed from a distance so that  it’s like a semi-dry dust when it ‘lands’... A bit like the lump of old chipboard I put things on to spray.

 

In the old photos I’ve seen the porches seem to have rendering that is coming off. I’ve made them from Wills sheets, so I need to be able to do that. The lintels are also just visible through the rendering.

 

Experimentation called for I think. 

 

It depends what colour rendering you are after.  I have achieved a nice effect by stippling thick white paint on Swiss buildings in the past.  But if you are looking to replicate the unpainted render common in Cornwall, I would probably start by using a similar technique with a beige/grey colour and then sprinkling on some dry sand whilst the paint is still wet, or dunking the freshly painted surface in a tray of sand, in an attempt to replicate the pebble-dash effect.  Natural beach sand would probably work better than builders sand, because of the more varied colouring.  Masking tape could be used in places where you want missing render, and over the lintels, removing it before the paint dries.  I haven’t tried it myself, but that’s probably where I would start.

 

Enjoy the experimenting!

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8 hours ago, Chamby said:

 

It depends what colour rendering you are after.  I have achieved a nice effect by stippling thick white paint on Swiss buildings in the past.  But if you are looking to replicate the unpainted render common in Cornwall, I would probably start by using a similar technique with a beige/grey colour and then sprinkling on some dry sand whilst the paint is still wet, or dunking the freshly painted surface in a tray of sand, in an attempt to replicate the pebble-dash effect.  Natural beach sand would probably work better than builders sand, because of the more varied colouring.  Masking tape could be used in places where you want missing render, and over the lintels, removing it before the paint dries.  I haven’t tried it myself, but that’s probably where I would start.

 

Enjoy the experimenting!


I tried out the talc and Phil’s beach sand ideas today. Beach sand won hands down! The talc came out far too white but it might do for the inside of the clay dry though!

 

The sand I have came from a beach in County Donegal nearly 20 years ago (don’t ask!) so it was about time I found a use for it.


51DAD5AD-9137-411D-BEE5-8FA425347C6C.jpeg.80b1eac341097633cdde2f7741de4a61.jpeg

 

As a second test I used it with some grey paint for the back path of ‘KMRC Cottages’ . It doesn’t look far off compared to the famous ‘bus photo’. Weirdly it looks finer in real life than it does in the photo.

 

DD58E98B-50E2-4F91-B47E-3516C48B6497.jpeg.b6e8d013b06cccb83d5e7f86dcac30f4.jpeg
 

It’s hard to tell but in some photos it looks like the front porches of the cottages might have had rendering applied but it didn’t stay put. I might try using Maskol to replicate this. Using the sand idea I’ll have to wait till the guttering and down pipes are on before I render it - carefully!

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This is a topic that makes me wish I'd taken photos of the Cornish cottage models I'd built over the years rather than just giving them away to people!

There's two types of cement renders common in Cornwall, one is spray render which produces a very textured finish, the other is a flat render that's been applied with a trowel. The row of houses at Burngullow have a flat render, which is just a mixture of sand, cement, and water, so your "texture" in 4mm scale would be builders sand shrunk 76 times! That'd be so fine that in 4mm scale (about 13 microns) it'd be basically invisible. If you want a point of reference, that'd be the equivalent of 1500 grit sandpaper.

To create an illusion of texture, judicious application of weathering is the best way to go. Solid colours don't work for concrete because they just look like paint, so you have to break up the surface by creating a blotchiness of subtle tone variations. Best way I've found to do this is to start with a dark base tone, and then use sponges to apply a medium and then light tone over it. Dull "blend" with a mist coat from an airbrush, and then conservatively stipple lighter and darker speckles to represent the typical fungus/lichen that likes to grow on cement. Once you've got a fairly convincing appearance, you can go back with a slightly lighter shade, and drybrush in a downward motion below any protrusion that may have occluded rain, such as immediately below windowsills and fascia boards. Then go back with a slightly darker shade, and drybrush anything that may've gotten excess exposure to moisture, such as the upper surface of windowsills, behind downspouts and the foot of the wall where rain tends to splash back.

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Don't you just love it when...

 

The gutters and so on for the cottages arrived from Modelu the other day, so this morning I had a good look. Lovely little bits and pieces - except for the outlets that I forgot to order! I want to get the gutters on before I go near it with paint - my head is still whirling with all the advice :) - it's a good job I have some wagon kits and lamps to get on with...

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