.

[Mookie]

.

Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[GoingUnderground]

As you apparently have the original packaging, you will have the make and model numbers, which you haven't given us as that's relevant. It would be better if you used that information yourself to look up the specs of the decoders on their maker's website if it's not in the original packaging. If it's in german then find out the german words for power and current and look for numbers in the text followed by the abreviation mA for milliamps.

 

But the 8 pin ones should be fine as the 8 pin interfsce is frequently used in DCC Ready OO and H0 models. The 6 pin ones look to be smaller and might be lower current versions intended for use in TT and N gauge models where space is at a premium. You should use those in smaller 4mm models where the motor is likely to have a lower current draw. But they may just be the same as the rest but fitted with the 6 pin plug. That's why you need to find out their details for yourself.

 

Just one other point. There are other digital systems around, specifically Maerklin's MM and mfx systems, and german Trix used to have their own called Selectrix. Maerklin is much more common in the rest of Europe, and even if you got the decoders from someone in the UK, they might just hsve been using one of these other systems. So it is remotely possible that they might be intended for one of those systems and not be suitable for DCC. This is unlikely as Maerklin use the 21MTC interface, but worth bearing in mind. Another reason why you need to do the research yourself.

 

However, if you haven't got the decoders yet, which might be the case judging by the photo, as they're being auctioned/offered for sale on the internet, then ask the seller to give you the make and model numbers or the current handling for each decoder before you bid/buy.

Edited October 1, 2018 by GoingUnderground

[Mookie]

On 01/10/2018 at 07:51, GoingUnderground said:

As you apparently have the original packaging, you will have the make and model numbers, which you haven't given us as that's relevant. It would be better if you used that information yourself to look up the specs of the decoders on their maker's website if it's not in the original packaging. If it's in german then find out the german words for power and current and look for numbers in the text followed by the abreviation mA for milliamps.

 

But the 8 pin ones should be fine as the 8 pin interfsce is frequently used in DCC Ready OO and H0 models. The 6 pin ones look to be smaller and might be lower current versions intended for use in TT and N gauge models where space is at a premium. You should use those in smaller 4mm models where the motor is likely to have a lower current draw. But they may just be the same as the rest but fitted with the 6 pin plug. That's why you need to find out their details for yourself.

 

Just one other point. There are other digital systems around, specifically Maerklin's MM and mfx systems, and german Trix used to have their own called Selectrix. Maerklin is much more common in the rest of Europe, and even if you got the decoders from someone in the UK, they might just hsve been using one of these other systems. So it is remotely possible that they might be intended for one of those systems and not be suitable for DCC. This is unlikely as Maerklin use the 21MTC interface, but worth bearing in mind. Another reason why you need to do the research yourself.

 

However, if you haven't got the decoders yet, which might be the case judging by the photo, as they're being auctioned/offered for sale on the internet, then ask the seller to give you the make and model numbers or the current handling for each decoder before you bid/buy.

 

.

Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[Crosland]

The packaging is all Zimo, for which very good English docs are available. The 6 pin ones are intended for N gauge locos. I think the bottom right is an MX620.

 

If you have access to a system that supports JMRI then I would double check the actual decoders by identifying them on your programming track. They may not be in the correct boxes! No harm in putting therm in a loco to do this.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

And those in the blue boxes look remarkably like Zimo's MX64 - will effectively tame the most uncivilised OO drives to give the best performance their mechanical limitations permit. You have some good kit there.

[Butler Henderson]

The packaging is all Zimo, for which very good English docs are available. The 6 pin ones are intended for N gauge locos. I think the bottom right is an MX620.

6 pins are pretty common on OO locos now, worth keeping them as they are for any 6 pin socketed loco you come across.

[Mookie]

.

Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[Butler Henderson]

One loco I'm looking to chip is a Bachmann Class 08. Judging from the MX620F (Miniature-Decoder) it may fit, due to the lack of space inside the loco.

If its the version with a 8 pin socket if that does not fit a DCC Concepts Zen 360 will.

[Nigelcliffe]

Thanks for the replies and advice. Yes they are all Zimo decoders.

 

4x Blue are MX63F 6 pin.

1x Yellow is MX630R 8 pin.

1x Yellow is MX631R 8 pin with capacitor.

2x Green is MX620F 6 pin.

 

 

 

The MX63 is a little old, but otherwise a very decent decoder (will outperform most things on sale today from almost all makers). 

The MX620 is out of production, but pretty much the same as current models, and can be updated to almost current firmware.  The MX630/631 are newer still.  

 

Zimo decoder firmware is updateable if you need any recent new features.  It requires some Zimo hardware to do it, or a dealer willing to do it for you. 

 

You need two manuals, one older for the MX63, and the others the newer "small decoder manual" (which has vast amounts on sound features for the MX640-onwards sound decoders which you can ignore).

 

The 620 will work fine in an 08 if you can make it fit - a six-pin to wiring harness costs a few pounds if you don't want to attempt anything drastic. 

 

 

 

- Nigel

[Mookie]

.

Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[GoingUnderground]

Well I've chipped a Hornby 8F and a Bachmann Class 40. Both working fine. One question, I followed some instruction on Bromsgrove Models on installing the decoder on the Class 40: http://www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/bachmannclass40dccinstr.htm.

 

One thing I didn't do is, as quoted 'It was also necessary to cut the legs of the capacitors each side of the motor on this model to improve the running.' Well the loco runs fine, do I need to do this? And if I don't will it damage the loco/decoder?

 

Kind regards,

 

Mookie.

If the loco runs fine with them in place, then I personally wouldn't bother. But many DCC experts advise removal of these TV/radio suppression capacitors anyway whilst you have the body off as sometimes they can cause problems for some decoders. Leaving them in place won't hurt the loco or the decoder.

[Mookie]

.

Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[Nigelcliffe]

Might be the capacitors, but a runaway is usually down to something corrupting the DCC signal to the track.  Could be the system in use, the quality of wiring, or any number of things.

 

The first way around it is to turn-off DC running in CV29.  Then the decoder won't respond to what it thinks might be a DC signal (power) and absence of DCC. 

[Mookie]

On 18/10/2018 at 23:34, Nigelcliffe said:

Might be the capacitors, but a runaway is usually down to something corrupting the DCC signal to the track.  Could be the system in use, the quality of wiring, or any number of things.

 

The first way around it is to turn-off DC running in CV29.  Then the decoder won't respond to what it thinks might be a DC signal (power) and absence of DCC. 

.

Edited July 20, 2022 by Mookie

[Pendennis]

I've also got some MX620s, albeit with wires.  I believe they are designed as N gauge decoders but I would like to use them on a couple of Bachmann split chassis locos, the small size would help.  Could they cope with the peak voltage?

 

Martin

[RAF96]

Its not the voltage you need to unduly fret about but the motor stall current. Decoder limits will be in the spec sheet.

Rob

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Seconded on measure 12V stall current carefully, inching the motor round for several samples. Most of these motors are good performers on DCC, but I have twice encountered examples which came to me to be sorted because the models were 'decoder eaters', very high stall current indeed, circa 3A... Solved it by swapping out for proven motors from worn out chassis. (Side note, I wrecked my ancient DIY worm puller on the one which required a worm swap, by, it was on tight.)